Ford Excursion :: Slap Back Going Over Bumps?
Mar 8, 2016
I've noticed that my Ex has an odd noise when driving over minor bumps like repaired potholes. It doesn't do it over larger bumps. Hard to describe, but it's like a "slap-back" after hitting the bump. Sounds like a dull thud that's apparently coming from the right front. Sounds like the wheel is hitting the bump twice.
Anyhow, after working underneath...and checking for things that are loose, worn, etc...I found nothing. The truck has just under 41,000 miles. The only thing that seemed to be a bit off was the right front shock. I pulled them all while painting/cleaning up...and of course, each one expanded immediately. This one didn't. Once it was compressed fully..it did expand but not as quickly as the others. (In order to get back on the road, I put it back.)
So, before I start throwing parts at this truck. My initial thought is that this one shock is weak and isn't keeping the front wheel planted.
All that being said, I could swap the shocks side to side and see if the noise moves. But....it's difficult to move gas shocks around so if it's thought that shocks could be the case..I'd just put new ones on. (Any recommendation?)
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Alright so my Ex is pretty noisey when going over bumps and I'm going to do the V/Mod-B spring swap. My mechanic showed me how shot my front sway bar (aka control arm) bushings are so those definitely need to be replaced.
What would you guys recommend for getting for bushings? Should I get the whole set or just ones for the front swing arm?
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We took our Ex to a local business and got almost 6k worth of work done prior to our trip. This included specific instructions to inspect the brake systems and replace anything that needed it. The work done included new front calipers, pads, hubs, new xrf ball joints, new shocks all the way around including dual fronts, a 6.0 tranny cooler and all new fluids. I alook tried getting a magtec differential cover installed but was told it didn't fit.
Long story short, while on the road we began to notice a grinding noise occasionally on small bumps. In reding ca our rear drivers side brake pads basically disintegrated and we were stranded while BigO replaced both pads, calipers and one rotor. They also advised that the slide pins were frozen on both calipers. This had no effect on the other noise I described.
Now that we're home we went back to the original shop and explained what happened. The owner agreed to take another look at the truck but basically said he stands behind his employees. He admitted that they chose not to examine the rear brakes to save usome "3 hours" of shop time. He also said that the rear brakes would've cost the same regardless of if they'd replaced them instead of BigO.
When my wife pointed out that our family had been first of all put in danger and secondly stranded by his worker's shoddy examination. He then preceded to ask why I insisted on doing so much work to such an old, high mileage truck. I left our truck with him so they could see if the sound could be traced back to anything they worked on and off course they didn't hear it.
I'm going back there tomorrow to take him for a drive and show him the noise which I repeat only started after their work was done. Am I wrong to be furious and think this crap is completely bs?
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I need to replace the rubber axle bumper guards. I have a clunking noise from the left front going over bumps. Troubleshooting I found the left front axle bumper guard is missing, right side is missing chunks and dry rotted. I had a question about how they attach. The one that is missing looks like a rusted bolt snapped off. Is it safe to assume a bolt goes right thru the center of the bumper guard into the frame? Couldn't tell on the right side it is in bad shape. Right front bolt may have sheared off on the bottom and just held in on the top by what is left.
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A friend from work is having what he says is piston slap, but only under a load. I feel it could be the timing set since it's never been changed and at least 160k miles. Odometer quit working at least 5 years ago. Other than that, motor runs great. 1997 F150 4.6....
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I have a 2001 excursion, v10 4x4 just bought it used thinking I scored until I drove it home (mostly noticeable on freeway, which I didn't do while on my test drive) the steering wheel stays straight, but the truck doesn't stay straight in the road lines,the car turns!! Feels real loose , I hear rattles, rattles going over bumps but mostly real slight uncontrolled steering and seems floaty. Is this a common problem? I did a little searching and found some posts about rattles but noble about sloppy steering.
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For a while now, my coolant temp gauge in the instrument cluster would bounce according to the bumps on the road, only when engine is fully warmed up. So I disconnected the ECT sensor to see if there's anything unusual. Nothing suspicious found, so I plugged it back in. Now my temp gauge is at "Cold" all the time. OBD reader shows normal coolant temp rise.
I shorted the ECT connector to simulate a hot condition--gauge still shows Cold. Checked the yellow/red wire against ground--5 ohm. Disconnected battery for 30 minutes--no change.
Now, it looks like I'll have to pull the instrument cluster, which is not something I want to do since I don't really have a place to work on the car, but I take this drastic measure.
Mine is a 2001, with the analog cluster.
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So finally my wife traded in her vw for a Toyota. We found a 06 Avalon limited with only 68k. It's loaded to the gills with options and we have found only one thing that doesn't work, the back glass power sliding shade. Possibly coincidentally possibly not we have an annoying rattle from the rear when we go over bumps. Is the rattle coming from the non working shade? How do I fix it?
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The back seat of my B6 rattles (more like a buzzing noise) when going over bumps. It makes that noise over bumps even if the seat is folded down.
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The back of my passenger seat rattles, resonating when going over bumps (and not weighted with a passenger). I've lifted my back on the driver's seat and it doesn't seem to rattle over the same bumps. How to tighten it up?
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I have a clunking sound coming from the back end. It is most noticeable at lower speeds going over bumps. I can also make the clunk happen by grabbing the top of the right rear tire and rocking it. I can feel something moving while I am doing this, but I can't pinpoint it. The bushings seem to be in good condition. The left rear wheel bearing was replaced recently. I also have an intermittent brake pulsation which feels like a warped rotor. I don't think it is actually the rotor, because it doesn't happen every time I apply the brakes. I believe that these two things are related. Is it possible for the rear struts to cause these issues?
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OK, so I have a 2009 Elantra and have noticed that in the last 2 weeks, there is a severe rattle/clunk when I hit bumps that sounds like it is coming from the back right tire. At times it also sounds like it is coming from the seats. I just can't tell. It has been to 3 different dealers. One said they heard it and suggested it was a loose spoiler....tightened and no change. The dealer I bought it from claims they hear nothing (it is SO noisy!). I went to a dealer today who drove with me and said it may be a defect with struts, etc. They definitely heard it.
So I ask new Elantra owners..could it just be that the Elantra is noisy over bumps? Sounds like my shocks are gone. Super loud when going over bumps. My car is only 6 months old.
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Changed the struts on my 2004 passat and the back end still fishtails when hitting bumps! And when the roads are wet the back end slides! So if the struts were changed what could be causing this?
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2008 GX 470 ... Experience noise that sounds to be coming from the back hatch/toolbox area when going over harsh bumps? If so is there a known fix for this? I was thinking of adding weather stripping in a couple of strategic locations.
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My Prius has been sitting in the fridged weather in my driveway. It's Tuesday and the temperature is currently 18F. The last time I drove this car was two days ago on Sunday.
I started it up a few minute ago and heard a HORRIBLE knock or slap from the engine bay. It alarmed me to the point where I wanted to run in and grab my camera but I tried listening to understand what it could be. At first I thought it might be a belt came loose and was whipping around hitting the components but it went away after about 30-40 seconds. It was so loud that I thought the neighbor two doors down who was shoveling snow could hear it.
I will let it sit overnight and will definitely capture this on video in the morning. I have a feeling the noise will be back.
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I have 05 F250 SD with 150k on it. The engine has the typical cam phaser knock, timing chain slap on start up and occasionally have a noisy lifter. As long as I use fresh 20-40 oil the engine symptoms are less and the engine runs strong. The motor also doesn't leak or burn oil and the plugs were change out about 20k ago.
The truck is still good and is prefect for my needs so to me it's seems worth fixing the needed repairs. What I would like to figure out how far should I take the motor... just have the chains, guides and phasers replaced or buy a rebuilt motor and swap it? I'm thinking just doing the phases and etc would be 1/2 the cost but may not last as long as rebuilt motor. But realistically I might only put 5-7k miles are year on it anyways.
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2007/ES350.
I got this car in december 2014 and yes, there was this well known piston slap noise on cold mornings.
The dealer where the car has been maintained did an oil change at 54 400 miles and they added bulk oil 0W-20. I think that's a pretty thin oil for this engine, also the manual recommends 5w30.
So I bought a box of Amsoil 5w-30 Signature Series, the OEM filter and did an oil change.I could immediately tell the difference, the piston slap started to fade and the MPG went up. They say that this oil will improve the fuel consumption, and that's true.
But the most important thing is that piston slap noise started to fade immediately and now after 2500 miles there's around 10% of the piston slap noise. The engine is smooth as silk and I'm really happy with the result.
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I just turned 210,000 miles on my 2003 Silverado, and I have started to notice what sounds like piston slap when at warm idle. When I start the truck in the morning, it sounds fine. But once the engine warms up, then I hear the noise. I'll rev the engine up to 2000-3000 rpms for a couple seconds, then let it idle, and the noise is gone. But 10-20 seconds later, it slowly comes back. I do not hear the noise at all when driving the truck. I tried SeaFoaming the engine through the throttle body and the brake booster vacuum line thinking it was carbon build up, but this did not fix the issue. However I may have eradicated the entire mosquito population!!
I've read that piston slap on these trucks only happens during a cold start. This is not the case with my truck. But am I still hearing piston slap.
2003 Silverado W/T 4.8L V8
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My wife took my '05 Excursion diesel to work today with temps near zero. Got the sticky doors open for her and sprayed the seals with silicone so they won't freeze shut again. I don't think the spray has anything to do with this problem, but thought I'd mention it since I used it this morning.
At lunchtime she got in the truck, started it, and the electric passenger window behind the driver went down by itself and now won't go back up. All the other windows (and door locks) continue to operate properly. Thinking that perhaps some ice/water might be shorting out the circuit, I tried banging on and slamming the door, as well as "futzing" with both switches (drivers door and the switch on the problem door) with no change.
Also, I haven't had the door panels off the X, so if there are any tricks to popping the electric panel out without breaking retaining hardware....
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Rolled all the windows down(for the first time) to play some tunes. All of them went down like they should and all came back up but the back right passenger window. hit the switch...nothing, not even a tick like its trying to do something, it went down fine and dandy but is now totally dead. Figured it was the master switch on drivers door, spent the last two hours taking that apart, got down to the switch connections, cleaned connections and put back together...still nothing. At this point a really need to get it back up somehow(rain moving in), me and my brother tried jumping the connector, made some sparks fly but never got it up. mashing it hard, taking other switches from other doors, have tried all that and it still wont go up..er know.
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I had to make a few trips up and down the snow covered driveway. I moved the dash switch to 4wd high for each trip and then back to 2wd when I was turning around at each end. On my final trip back, I got stuck while turning around in 2wd. I tried switching to 4wd high and low but could not get either to engage with rocking back and forth.
The dash light did not come on and only the rear right wheel was spinning. Shifting to park or neutral and turning the switch to 4wd did not change the results. When I finally got myself unstuck, the 4wd still wouldn't engage when driving in a straight line.
What could have broke or stopped working? Bad vacuum line? Bad fuse? Could I have still initiated 4wd by manually locking the hubs? If so, is the process with the dash switch still the same even when manually locking the hubs?
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