I developed a significant miss on my '00 Excursion 6.8L yesterday and threw a P0306 code. Since the engine has 178K showing and I bought it used, I am planning to replace all the COPs and plugs.
Recommend one COP over another; motorcraft over Accel, etc.? Any preference for spark plugs?
2005 f150 5.4.
I have a slightly rough idle and can feel a miss at 1600 to 2000 RPM. Sometimes running about 65 MPH up a slight grade I can slowly press the gas pedal and the engine will begin to miss much worse, causing the truck to shake pretty bad. When it gets this bad it will slowly flash the CEL and I get a P0306 code (Cyl 6 missfire).
The truck has 148000 Miles on it and the plugs were replaced at approx 120000 by the dealer.
In the last week I have replaced the plug in cylinder 6 (looked ok) and have replaced all the COP's along with the fuel filter and the injector on #6.
I haven't been able to get it flash the CEL light or throw a code since replacing the COPs though and I am at a loss at to what to try next.
So my 99 F-150, 4.2L started throwing a code a few weeks ago, P0306 #6 Cyl Misfire. This thing has got 238,000 and has been the most reliable commute vehicle I've owned.
Today I changed all the plugs and wires (they were due anyways) which didn't resolve the issue. After clearing the code, got about 3 miles out and it came back. Running SeaFoam through the system on this tank as well, but I'm leaning towards an EGR blockage like what is described here:
Sparky's Answers: 1999 Ford F150, P0306 Misfire Cylinder #6
I was about to buy a new coil pack but I'd rather not continue to throw parts at this, as I've read many others do with this same exact situation, only to end up with the same code. I've replaced the coil pack once already a few years ago when I lost a cylinder on the way to work.
I have a 99 f150 5.4 and i am pretty sure I have a cop issue. I have changed a few over the past few years and this one is acting about the same. The other day i felt a slight stumble but it went right away and drove fine. Well after heavy rain all night i went to take the kids to school and it was stumbling and acting like it was not firing on all cylinders. CEL came on and got the code read at the auto part store. Well driving it home it just cleared and drove fine. So i checked the #6 plug and changed the boot on the coil but all the same symptoms came back. It is the original coil so i am figuring that it is bad.
View 3 Replies I have a very Big problem with my Ford Escape 2002 I have this problems code: P0305 accuses Cylinder #5 P0306 accuses Cylinder #6.
I already change the gasket i buy the felpro Kit, and i Also replace all the sparks and spark plug boots, I clean the air sensors and i also replace the EGR, i try to switch cables, and all is the same the car start buy when i accelerate it just go off, i don't know what can i do next, somebody told me to change the fuel injector, i take the pressure in both spark holes the number 4 was 150 and the 5 and 6 was 120, No leaks oil. My car is a Ford Escape 2002, XLT 3.0 4x4
Having 3 new codes coming up. P0306-misfire on cylinder 6, p0158, p2272. Use my truck as a daily driver for work. Driving along before 80km/h is not to bad but can still feel a little loss of power. If i step down on gas the truck has no power and sounds like maybe cat converter is plugged. If truck is pushed to limit she will make it to her 4000 rpm and will change her gears. So i'm just glad its not tranny.
View 3 RepliesI have a small problem that has been going on for about the last 6 months. It only appears once in a while, and only when I have parked facing uphill for longer than a day or so. Upon first start (cold) after sitting pointed uphill for a day or two, it starts real rough and sputters a bit. Then when I check codes, I always have a pending P0316 (misfire within the first 1000 revolutions) along with a P0306 or P0301. No dash lights or anything.
Since those two cylinders are at the front of the motor, could it be that the fuel is leaking back down the rail and leaving those two injectors dry? It isn't always both cylinders, sometimes one or the other. If this is the sign of something bigger on the horizon, I would like to have a heads up.
I have a 2004 Santa Fe with the 3.5. Today I started it and the check engine light came on. It was not on before this. (We had a lot of wind and rain from the storm but nothing major.) And seems to be running fine. I went to the auto parts store and they ran a diagnostic and the Code P0306 came up #6 cylinder misfire. They said probably Spark plug, wire or coil for #6, then went to look up code in computer and did not have my truck so they went with Kia or Domestic, which gave different possibilities for a code P0306.
They had me buy some fuel injector cleaner as injector was on the list. The light is still on so I guess the cleaner was not the magic bullet. I spoke to a lady at another auto parts store who is a wiz when it comes to cars and has been around them and fixing them a really long time. She says the Code P0306 is Spark Plug, wire, coil #6. She has a 4cyl Hyundai car not truck and she had the code for her #4 misfire in the past and she started her repair cheapest first, Plugs, wires her code was still there she then changed the coil and that did the trick for her.
I on the other hand can't do this stuff myself. Can't afford the dealer anymore or to have a shop do a tune up AND coil if I don't need all new plugs and wires just a coil as they will charge a lot to do a lot all. And it may not need it or even be any of those things. I also suspect the dealer and shops will want to still hook up their computers to do an costly diagnostic because the light is on, even though I know the parts store already came up with a code P0306 twice. Spoke to the dealer on the phone and he already basically said they would want to do that first for $100 plus the cost of repair.
I brought the truck new. It now has 91,500 miles on it and the dealer has already done two tuneups on it in that time, Plugs and wires. I hear it probably shouldn't have even needed these tuneups in this amount of millage? So the last one was probably about 2 years ago and a few thousand miles maybe a guess 10,000-20,000 miles ago. Do you think a plug and wire would be bad already in that few miles?
Went to do a few things this morning, started the car and it ran like crap. It was an obvious multi cylinder misfire. I checked to make sure all the coil connections and all other visible connectors were tight. Went back around and noticed the mil was flashing, so I shut it down and took the girl's car. I returned later in the afternoon and swapped out my intake in anticipation of it going to the dealer. Started up the car afterward and it ran fine without the mil lit. I had the codes pulled:
p0300 p0303 p0306 Its kind of weird that 2 coils would go at the same time. Do these cylinders share a coil or fuel injector driver off the ecm?
I have a 99 town car with 78,000 miles. I filled the tank and have run about 1/4 tank when the engine started to misfire. Got the Service Engine Soon light so went to O'reily. The OBDII code is p0306 cyl 6 misfire. What would you check first?
View 3 RepliesMy mom's 2003 Alero has had a bad catalytic converter for the last few years.. at least that's what she was told when she took it to the shop. The engine light (P0420 threshold below efficiency) has been on over the last few years and I occasionally check it with a code reader to make sure no other codes have been added. Up until today - as far as I know - none have been. Now today when she was driving it the engine light started flashing and running rough and making a knocking sound.She brought it straight home and I hooked my scan tool up and it gave the same cat code as I just mentioned, plus a P0306 misfire code. So I pulled the plug wire on number six cylinder and hooked up a spark tester to it - and it showed a decent spark. And to verify the spark being normal, I tested at another plug wire and the spark looked about the same..so I don't think anything is wrong with number 6 plug wire or coil or anything like that but am not sure. Also, the spark plugs were replaced a couple of weeks ago because the ones in the car were worn down about .010''. I can't imagine this having anything to do with the misfire because I did them myself and made sure they were gaped properly and that all the wires were put back on the correct plug/cylinder and plus it ran fine after the plugs were installed - but thought I would mention it anyways. And I was very careful not to damage the platinum on the plug when gaping them.
Did a little bit of research and found this: A code P0306 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: Faulty spark plug or wire Faulty coil (pack) Faulty oxygen sensor(s) Faulty fuel injector Burned exhaust valve Faulty catalytic converter(s) Running out of fuel Poor compression Defective computer
So I had a serious runability problem back in 2012 with code P0302 (misfire in cylinder 2) and the car was barely running. I changed the spark plugs, which didn't fix the issues. Then changed the coil, which fixed it. URL...But I was a little lazy back in September 2012, the old spark plug wires looked like they were still in great shape, so I left the old wires on. I think they were the original factory wires, they had the numbers of each cylinder printed on the side. Very nice wires!
Fast-forward to the present. Car starts running poorly with a blinking check-engine light. Not good! I check the code and it is P0306, misfire in cylinder 6. So my first thought was: OK, probably time to change the spark plug wires!I changed the spark plug wires. I purchased AutoLite Professional Series wires at Advance Auto Parts, part 97047. URL...Sure enough, the number 6 wire looked like it had a little corrosion inside the end that connects to the spark plug wire. It looked like I was on the right track! Changed the spark plug wires, and ran it. It still sounded like it might be missing on one cylinder. Just a quiet ch-ch-ch-ch-ch-ch at idle. I took it for a test drive. It ran OK at low RPM's, but had no power. When I tested some hard acceleration, sure enough the check engine light came back on. Tested the code and it was P0306 again. Conclusion: not fixed yet.
OK, maybe the spark plug wire was the problem, just the plug got fouled because the wire was bad. I purchased a replacement spark plug for that cylinder only. AutoLite Double Platinum as recommended elsewhere in this forum. Removed the old plug. I'm no expert, but the old plug looked fine to me. Installed the new plug. Tested it again. Still sounded like missing at idle ch-ch-ch-ch-ch. Test drive, OK with low RPM, no power. Tried hard acceleration, got the blinking CEL again. Conclusion: still not fixed - darn it!
Now remember, I just changed the coil back in September 2012. I had replaced it with a coil from AutoZone. The first coil had lasted ten years. So it couldn't be the coil again this soon, right? But... just to be sure, I went ahead and changed the coil again. I called AutoZone and happily it was still under warranty. The previous coil I had purchased came with a 24-month warranty, and I was on month 23 !!! Sweet!AutoZone also told me if I did a warranty replacement of the coil, the new one would come with a lifetime warranty instead.The part number of the coil at AutoZone was part C1312, Duralast Ignition Coil.
Before installing the new coil, I put a little Dielectric grease around the top inside of each connector on the new coil (7 total, six spark plug wires plus the electrical connector). I think this was recommended in my Haynes or Chilton manuals.I am a tall skinny guy with long skinny arms. So I was able to replace the coil without removing the cowl. Last time I had to remove the cowl (to do the intake manifold isolator bolt repair) the cowl had cracked, also some of the clips holding it down broke. So I didn't want to remove the cowl unless necessary. It turns out with my long skinny arms I can lay up over the motor and reach back around both sides of the intake manifold to reach the coil. It is a reach, but it was possible for me to do the job that way.
I removed the three bolts holding the old coil in place. Then I was able to slide the new coil back in there, around the driver's side of the intake manifold. I transferred over the spark plug wires one by one from old to new (as recommended by another poster) so I wouldn't get confused which was which. It worked well to transfer the rear three first. That hold the new coil near the correct location, and gave me more slack to move the old coil further out of the way.Next step was to remove the wire connector from the rear of the coil pack. It didn't want to release. I looked at the old part (from 2012!!!) and there was a little plastic nub back there to lock the connector in place. It looked like there was room to work in a small screwdriver back there to release the lock. So I wiggled a short flat-head screwdriver in back there (with a wide head) and it released. Then I was able to easily remove the connector.
Then I had more slack to move the old coil further out of the way, toward the drivers side and front of the vehicle. And then transferred the last three spark plug wires to the new coil.Then to secure the new coil in place, I carefully installed one bolt by hand, leaving it loose to allow for final adjustments of position. Installed the second and third bolts loosely. Tightened the three bolts finger tight using a short (3") extension and 7mm socket (1/4" drive). Then snugged them very gently using my small 1/4" rachet. The small 1/4" rachet was a perfect fit using the 3" inch extension and the small 7mm socket. Remember you just want the bolts snug, do not over-tighten them.
When I went back to AutoZone to process the warranty return, they had to do some fancy work with their computer to get me the lifetime warranty on the new coil. By default it would just assume the rest of the original coil warranty from 2012 - which was just about to expire. So they made it right for me - but only because I specifically asked about it. By default, the guy had already rung it up their "normal" way, which would not have extended the warranty for me.Another thing that was strange was back in September 2012 when I replaced the original coil, it had worked well for ten years or so! Also, the bottom of it was clearly cracked, so it was easy to see that it had deteriorated and needed to be replaced.
I bought this truck a little over a year ago and have put almost 30,000 miles on it. When I bought it, it had a clunk from the front end, but only when I went over a significant bump. It was most pronounced when I, for example, hit a speed bump at an angle and the body rocked back and forth. It's steadily been getting worse and now it's fairly concerning. It happens on pretty much every bump now. Additionally, I've developed a fairly significant shimmy under braking and a vibration over 65mph. I got into a fairly scary shimmy when trying to slow down as I was going down a mountain a few weeks ago.
The other day I started getting a grinding noise from the front right. It goes away when the brakes are pressed. I don't know if the grinding noise and vibration/shimmy are related to the clunking or if they are the result of a separate issue. I have plenty of brake pad and rotor on all corners and there is no perceptible play in any of the front end components (wheel bearings, ball joints, tie rods, shock mounts, etc.). I suspected the leaf spring bushings, but I supported the truck by the frame and still got no noticeable play when jerking things around by hand.
Ok, my 1996 Buick Regal is acting up. I got a CEL, which was a P0306 (Cylinder #6 misfire), took the car to my shop, and they diagnosed as a faulty Ignition Control Module. Fast Forward, a day later, the car now has a hard start problem and throwing the same code, plus a P0102 Mass Airflow Sensor.
So my questions are:
1) Could a faulty ICM cause a single cylinder misfire, did they just replaced a random part? I would think a bad ICM would a multiple misfire considering on this car each coil controls 2 cylinders.
2) Are the two codes related? ie fix one, and the other would go away? or are they separate issues?
3) What could be wrong with my car?
This mechanic has been in my family for years, however, I'm not very pleased that a day later, my car seems to have more problems than before. Am I being too harsh?
Installed the Riffraff gauge kit and the check engine light came on about 20 miles after install and the Ex now randomly has a hard jolting miss, just for a second then its gone. Took it about 4 or 5 times of the jolting miss then the check engine light came on.
Could something have been unplugged or could the manifold air intake heater delete be causing the light. Ran fine until the gauge install. I remember reading something about the ground for the manifold air intake heater being a issue if not care full. I could not get the dam thing off so tapped the end and left it. The ground post kept spinning not allowing the ground to come loose. This thing is becoming a pit I cant feed fast enough.
If I can figure this out before Monday that would be great. If not I am tired of dicking with it and am just going to take it in. Don't have a scanner that will read the codes so SOL there. Unless there is some way to get them off with a flashing light sequence. I would love to find out how to do that. I don't want to drive it anymore than I have to as if one more thing goes wrong with this dam thing........
Noise on acceleration, sounds like a miss but engine feels good and no check engine light, eventually goes away, not there under a load either, idk totally stumped.
View 10 RepliesI am a proud new owner of a 2000 X 6.8l 2wd with the 4.3 rear end .
I have had the truck for 2 weeks now . When I bought her , she ran a little rough but I expected as much after sitting for 6 months ... After driving her home I began to start a massive tune up , because she was acting like there was a miss ... The miss only started after she was at normal operating temp and at first only when at cruising speeds in overdrive on the freeway , it progressively got worse ... The miss became all the time once up to normal operating temp but will do it wether she is in any gear or even park .... Oh and the miss is NEVER at the same time it is always completely random ...
I have changed all 10 coils , all 10 plugs , the PVC valve , and I am changing the fuel filter this afternoon ... Other then that I think I can hear a vacuum leak , but I have tried spraying carburetor cleaner around the engine bay as instructed by a " ford expert " at the local auto parts store and I did not notice any change ... After I install the new fuel filter I am going to fill her full of 93 octane and add a bottle or 2 for Lucas octane boost as well as the Lucas injector cleaner ...
Other then these things I am at a complete loss ! This is my first v10 ford so I am a little at a loss ... Now if this was my wife's BMW 760 or my Lexus IS 300 I would not be having this problem.
I have a 2001 Excursion with the V-10. Two weeks ago, the upper nipple on the radiator cracked and I overheated. Was towed home and replaced the radiator with a quality aftermarket one. I then drove to the whiz wash and cleaned the antifreeze off of the engine.
Immediately I noticed a slight "miss" when cold, particularly when backing out of my driveway. I have no lights on the dash and it is throwing no codes. The miss gets much better (almost gone) when the truck is warmed up.
2001 V10 160000 miles.
1st happened Wednesday on way back. Temps all fine but had been in stop and go traffic earlier. Truck was on cruise and felt like fuel cut. I disengaged cruise. Throttle would keep it running and within 5-10 seconds it caught and ran fine.
Connected and reconnected all injectors, coil connections, tb and MAF connections. Nothing noted loose. No codes on OBD reader.
Drove around town last couple days no issues. Today towing three dirt-bikes about 45 miles. towards the end of the 45 miles. she stumbled as we crossed an intersection. Then caught and ran fine. Did it twice on way back home towards the end of the trip.
Had OBD reader in gauge mode with ignition advance, tp sensor, voltage and gallons per hour showing. None seemed to change when it stumbled.
Fuel pump is about 2 years old. Coils maybe 4 or 5 years old. Aftermarket. No codes on OBDII reader.
Got this nugget this morning after dropping my daughter off at school. I also noticed a significant reduction in power. Had to get fuel so while pumping, I checked the code with my WiFi reader and Engine Link app.
Got the code number which came up with this: 6.7L ? MIL on with DTCs P208E P218F P204F ? 2011-2016 Ford F-Super Duty
I decided to clear the code and see if it would instantly return which it didn't. Power came back as soon as it was cleared too. Will see if it comes back. Looks like the code is saying there might be crystals on my DEF injector. I did have a regen last night right before I parked for the evening and then this showed showed up first thing this morning. Would a DEF injector nozzle be covered under the emissions warranty if it comes back?
OK, 4th time in a week that my truck has had this problem... Seems to only be when the truck is already warmed up, restarting after sitting for a few minutes. Starts up just fine, but as soon as I drop it into gear it begins to stutter and stumble, running rough as can be and absolutely no throttle response. I have to kill the engine and restart the truck for it to correct itself, but the restart takes up to 5 seconds of extended cranking to finally fire up. Today is the first time I actually got a CEL and a code: P0078. Only had the truck 8 days now...
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