Ford Excursion :: Shuddering While Braking / Front End Would Periodically Shake And Pull To The Right
May 27, 2015
When I bought my X, the front end would periodically shake and pull to the right.
I recently redid the front brakes on my X. Replaced everything except the rotors; they looked okay. That fixed it pulling to the right and fixed the shaking somewhat, but it still shakes when I apply the brakes.
I don't feel it through the pedals. It's all up front, too. You can see the steering wheel shaking really bad.
What I'm thinking is maybe it's my tie rod ends? I think my front brakes were locking up and causing the shake to happen all the time. I think when I fixed that, it made it to where the shake only happens under braking. This makes me think it's the tie rod ends, or something else loose up there. I recently replaced the ball joints, too.
Or could it be the rear rotors? I just want to make sure I'm close before I start throwing parts at it!
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If I brake hard a dozen times, 8 or 9 will be normal, a couple times it will pull to the right but as long as your hands are on the wheel you can barely tell, and maybe once it will pull really hard. I have Hawk super duty pads and Ebc rotors with less than 5k on them and I just replaced the front calipers and hardware because I thought that was the problem.
It's not even consistent. Could possibly be rear calipers (rear also has new Hawk pads and Ebc rotors with less than 3k on them) but I don't think it would pull that hard. Tire pressure is even between sides btw.
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My 2000 v10 w/194K has developed an intermittent shake when braking. Severity from mild to severe. Had the problem earlier, suspected the rotors - replaced front rotors and pads with EB slotted rotors and Yellow Stuff pads. It was fine for a couple of months, now its back. Replaced the slide pins last night (they were in good shape, replaced anyway). Where to look next?
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So I just bought a 2004 Ex 4x4 4wd with only 50k from a dealer. While test driving the truck would shake/shudder when braking at 50-70 getting worse if you were going faster, as a condition of the sale they said they would look into it. They did and said it was the tires?? They balanced and rotated and did and alignment. Are they correct? the tires are BFG AT 33x12.5x16.5 on aftermarket rims.
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A few months ago I would periodically hear a "pop" from the front end. Most of the time when doing a slow turn or backing. As I just had completed a V/B swap I focused on that. I never could find anything wrong/loose. It seemed to go away for awhile but now has returned. I put the truck back up in the air. Checked sway bar links/mounts, ball joints, shocks, and hub bearings. Still no luck.
A mechanic friend suggested bad shock. In the last two days it had really increased in frequency. This morning I was looking around as I was at work and I noticed that the steering link bar from the box to the passenger side arm was movable by hand. How much play should this have? Got a big trip planned pulling the trailer coming up very soon and I need to get this fixed fast so that its safe.
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I have a 2003 Camry 4 cylinder with an exaust leak. On first morning start after the rpm drop to 500 the engine will shake periodically until I drive about half a mile then all is fine. I cleaned the trottle body at the area of the flap with throttle body cleaner and a tooth brush, and gave the car a tuneup. The problem went away for about 4 days but is back. What can I do to fix this.
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I am having problems with my steering being all over the place. I noticed it at first when braking. It would pull to both sides. At a stop light holding the brakes my steering would randomly pull. I replaced the power steering pump. It didn't fix it. Now just driving it pulls all over. I was thinking steering box?
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When braking the truck shakes terribly, enough to toss a drink out of the cup holder almost. Sometimes there is a slight feeling in the peddle but not always. The shudder feels like it is timed with each revolution of the wheels.
It developed from a perfectly stopping truck over the course of maybe a month. I don't drive the truck that much either.
Things I have checked:
1, all u-joints, they all look and feel good, no play or slop in them
2, air pressure in all tires, even rotated them, no effect
3, brakes-front and back all looked good but I went ahead and replaced front pads and rotors, cleaned caliper pins, zero effect.
4, shudder exists whether in gear and slowing or in neutral, 2wd and 4wd
What the heck else is there to check? My first thought was, front brakes/warped rotors, but after pulling them apart there was so much life left on the rotors and pads and replacing all that with new did nothing! Could bad back brakes cause this much of a shudder? They look fine as well.
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My 2002 2.4lt Santa Fe started shuddering under braking just after I brought it, so I got the front disc's skimmed, fixed it but 6 months later it come back, so on went a new OEM set, fixed it but 6 months later it's back again...
I'm about to skim this new set and see what happens.
Part number 81230-26000 and 81230A from partmaster
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When I brake hard. My truck wants to veer right. It drives straight otherwise.
I recently had my front shock replaced and prior tp that my truck did the same thing, although it was much worse since my left front shock was leaking. Originally I thought it was pulling because of the bad shock but now that thet've been replaced I am not to sure.
Alignment issue or something else entirely? Coud bad rear shocks cause the issue?
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I'm getting tired of this. Bought my Ex in April 2013
Realized in June '13 that truck would pull to the left a little when I braked. Replaced pads and rotors. Factory pads and rotors looked normal but whatever.
December 2013 - shimmying when braking downhill (not towing). Replaced rotors, pads and calipers with Power Stop.
September 2013 - Everything was good but I now have the the left pull about 35% of the time when I brake. After extended downhill mountain driving (7%+ grade for 15 miles) I get the shimmying. I only get the shimmying in this situation.
When I had my tires rotated (reputable shop) I was told I only had a 2-3k miles left on my pads.
I do drive aggressively so I'm not surprised I need to replace my pads more often, especially on a large vehicle. That said pads wearing out at ~10k miles normal?
I was going to just order new pads and install them this weekend but what is going on. Ex currently has about 64k miles on it.
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My gf's best friend has a 2007 Camry 2.4L sedan. Automatic trans if it matters. Has a really bad shake/thump when braking so I'm thinking it has warped rotors. She had brakes done by "some place" a year or so ago and I think they may have over tightened the lug nuts or something. She's also hard on brakes...and cars in general.
Ordered the Powerstop rotors and pads kit from RockAuto (non-performance setup, ceramic pads and regular rotors) and will be working on it soon.
Any link to the service manual or a place where I can get information on doing a brake job?
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Need to diagnose:
- Truck idles a little rough sounds a little like " puff , puff ", when put in reverse - still sounds the same ( looping hesitation )
- When accelerating feels pretty good until about 40-45 then it starts to shake , shudder and loose power. Shakes and shudder pretty violently.
Did a full ATF fluid service - no improvement
Aside from that it does not seem to have any other shifting issues at all. Problem is intermittent. Throughout the day it may run fine, and then at another point in the day it runs like poop when hitting 45+.
Could it be a bad Ignition Coil Pack ? Car has ZERO codes appearing - would either TC or COP set one off ?
Here is a pic of the one COP that I found does have a crack on the top ( passenger side ) - not sure if that could cause the truck to act the way it does.
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First issue I noticed was the brake pedal/steering vibrating - my assumption was "warped" rotors (I use warped in quotations so that this does not turn into a discussion on whether or not rotors can warp.) I checked the front and the rotors and pads seem fairly new, the back pads were pretty much gone so I replaced those. Reduced the problem somewhat. Yes I still need to do the rotors but would rear rotors that are warped cause that much shaking?
Next issue I had noticed was that for a while that the car would shake somewhat when accelerating usually going up hills or when the car is under strain. Then I noticed that when I had the car fully loaded with passengers it would shake fairly noticeably when accelerating every time.
I thought the problem may be worn plugs since it seemed to come from the engine, well after 2 days and many hours of work not the problem.
By the way I bought the car only a few months ago and have very few service records so not too sure what has or has not been done. The lady did keep up with the maintenance though.
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I have a 2000 Excursion with a 7.3 diesel. I have 245k on the clock. Engine and transmission are original. I have an overheating issue when I am towing and pull a long grade. It's not as bad as it was before but it still happens and I am tired of turning off the AC and putting the heaters on full blast to support cooling when it is 90 plus outside. A list of things that I have done so far.
Newer water pump and thermostat.
New tensioner.
Installed a new trans pan with about 7-8 larger capacity.
Used some magic juju juice to clean out colling system.
Installed a coolant filter. I am on my 5th filter. The first one didn't last 500 miles before getting stopped up.
Switch to Delo ELC.
I recently had the upper hose off and when I looked inside, I didn't see any scale or build up. I also read about some of the trucks of that vintage didn't get a trans cooler. When I looked, I saw a cooler but it doesn't look like it is plumbed through the radiator.
I want to install a large trans cooler. I don't want to replace the radiator just for the sake of replacing it. Also, look at the pic of the water pump with the thermostat sitting in it. Is the thermostat supposed to be resting all the way down? I keep wondering about that.
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I got a 2006 Solara SLE. while braking from highway speeds, the steering wheel shakes VIOLENTLY. city driving its not noticable. cruising the car is silky smooth. The one front caliper was sticking and i replaced pads, pins, rotor. Still shakes. i tried swapping pins as one pin has a sleeve at the tip and i didnt remember which one went where. i did notice the pin with no sleeve fits loosely. the rotor is AZ Duralast brand. the car has 200k trouble free with no suspension work ever done.
I am lost what to do and need to make a long trip coming up. I was going to try in order- replace other rotor, spin the one rotor and replace guide pin with a sleeved one, then do lateral run out test/lathe, alignment, then if that dosnt work a stick of dynamite. Iheard a bad tie rod or ball joint can cause this, i find it unlikely as it would probably shake all the time. Other small issue is a loud thunk in the rear when it hits bumps. Rear swaybar mounts?
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Bought an Ex last year with 200k miles on it. Started having issues this summer. First off, it will shake when pushing on the gas. If I let off the vibrating stops. Secondly, if I tromp on it, the speedometer drops for a second then comes back up and the "ABS" light comes on for that split second too. Thirdly, it will randomly die on me. This morning dropping off the kids at school, it died 3 times while backing up. Starts right up, but will just kill, no sputtering.
The Check engine was on, so I took it into Advance for a reading. Computer said there was an issue at the rear output sensor. So, I replaced the Speed Sensor on the rear differential last night. Take it for a test drive, and the check engine light is still on, but the Overdrive light on the shifter is flashing randomly.
Now, I assume the shaking and dying is Fuel related. I am ruling out the spark plugs as it idles fine (maybe I'm wrong). I purchased a fuel filter to replace that and hopefully it works.
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I've been chasing a noise/vibration that periodically comes from the front end of my '99 F250 SD. Quick & dirty of it........basically while cruising 55-60 down the road, sometimes when I hit a bump in the road or go over some railroad tracks or something like that I will get a grinding/vibration from what sounds like the front drivers side wheel. Best way to describe it is it literally sounds like my wheel is running on the rumble strip on the edge of the road at road speed. It will fade in & out a little & last maybe 5-20 seconds & eventually quite until some time farther down the road if I hit another bump. Doesn't happen all the time, just randomly.
So far to try & problem solve I have lifted the front & spun & kicked & wiggled & pulled on the wheel to see if I can feel or hear anything & everything seems solid. I have pulled the wheel off & looked the whole hub & wheel bearing over & everything seems fine. I have even pulled the 4x4 lockout out & inspected everything in the lockout & inside the wheel bearing & can't find anything that seems to be bad. (My original thought was that the Warn hubs I have might be messed up & the hub is trying to engage while driving down the road & that is the grinding & vibration I'm feeling.).
As mentioned above I have Warn manual hubs, I just replaced the wheel bearing last summer (only have about 10,000 miles on it), & all the seals & ball joints were done about 3 years ago.
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If the front rotors are warped would I not feel it when braking anytime and not just braking hard at high speed?
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I have a 2000 Ford Excursion with multiple transmission symptoms, so here goes.
The problem doesn't occur until after the vehicle has been driven approximately 100 miles as far as I can tell. At that point, I'll start to notice smoke coming from underneath the vehicle caused by the transmission leaking fluid onto the exhaust from the front of the transmission. At lower speeds, and while idling, the transmission will shake and shudder. It's not noisy or that extreme, but definitely noticeable.
I've also noticed on occasion there is a loss of power at higher speeds when the vehicle is in 4th or 5th gear. This mostly happens when trying to accelerate to pass on the highway. The transmission sounds like it downshifts, but the hard I push the gas pedal, the less power I have. If I push down far enough, the RPM's begin to drop. I've noticed that after I let the vehicle sit turned off for a couple of hours, it begins to work properly again, but it only lasts until the transmission is hot again.
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Ok,I have an 05 f150 4x4 5.4. And I have noticed for a little while now that once in awhile,it seems like the front end,will shake like an up and down shake.Today it was the worse,now it only does it maybe once a week if that but usally its not too bad. Just a little shimmy. But today it really shook.Now when it happened I put on the overdrive,applied the brakes and even put 4x4 on and still did it. Now it does it the worse at very slow speeds even at crawling speed in an alley.I parked it at home and took it out again after 10 minutes and nothing! What could be causing this??
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