Ford Excursion :: Shudder Under Braking - Brakes Or Axle Wrap?
Jan 21, 2016
So Ive got slotted rotors with Hawk pads up front. I put them on a while back, pads are probably getting to the end of their life. Rear brakes and rotors were done by the dealer recently. X code springs up front, stock springs with RAS in the rear.
Under quick, semi-hard braking I get some heavy shudder, not sure if its from the from or the rear. I had been thinking it was probably the brakes themselves, and planned on addressing the fronts soon. But then I read something around here about axle wrap under braking, and am now wondering if that's the cause. I am pretty sure that big rubber cone on my rear springs is gone, and I read that that is what prevents axle wrap.
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My 2002 Ex 4x4 developed a shudder during breaking. Today while trying to jack it up and put on jack stands. My 2 3/4 ton jack was too weak/short to lift it up to put on stands. I am using 6 ton stands just to lift the front.
So have to get new jack. Keep in mind I don't have a ton of cash for new jack. What size are you all using to get your ex up on stands?
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So I just bought a 2004 Ex 4x4 4wd with only 50k from a dealer. While test driving the truck would shake/shudder when braking at 50-70 getting worse if you were going faster, as a condition of the sale they said they would look into it. They did and said it was the tires?? They balanced and rotated and did and alignment. Are they correct? the tires are BFG AT 33x12.5x16.5 on aftermarket rims.
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I just bought a 2007 Sonata V6 (GL or GLS). Before buying the car, the last owner had the rear brakes "serviced" because the mechanic said the brakes were "sticking" - charged the old owner $300 for it. When I am on the highway and I brake, the rear brakes shudder. Do you think the shudder is because the rear brakes are still sticking, or because it needs new rotors?
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I own a 2003 Explorer, 4.0 v6, w/93k. When turning either direction from a stop I get a shudder from the rear end. Ford has issue tsb # 17717 but I cannot fix the fix, only a description of the problem. Where can I find a fix I wondered?
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I have a 199 Ford Expedition that started shuddering several months ago. The shudder was the most pronounced when braking, but was also pretty bad when accelerating and letting off the accelerator.I took it to a Nationally recognized service center. They charged me over $1,200 to replace everything associated with my brakes, but the shudder, (although no longer so pronounced when braking), was still there.Their best guess was the “U” joints, but since they had just a little play in them, they weren't sure that that would cause so much shudder.I took it to a Ford dealer. They had it for 3 days, and charged me $366 for a diagnosis that I had 3 different brand name tires, and the All Wheel Drive was having difficulty keeping the wheels in sync.The problem seems to be most pronounced when letting up on the accelerator Also pronounced when accelerating, not as much so as when letting off the accelerator, but when cruising steadily with my foot on the accelerator, it nearly goes away.
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What would cause the rear drum brakes to lock up upon hard braking? I have replaced the wheel cylinders, installed new spring kit, and adjusters.
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The truck is a new to me 99 f250 7.3. The problem occurred before doing the brakes, and after. The front brakes had new pads and calipers(rotors appeared to be in good condition) while the rears got New rotors, calipers, pads. The persisting problem is a really bad brake shudder that seems to be getting worse. It only occurs below about 5-10mph when braking. on this trip back to school there is a hill with a stop sign at the bottom where i should have rolled forward when i let my foot off the brake. This didn't happen.
It almost seemed as if the tires(meaty 35in dick cepek crushers) where rubbing and catching on something. but we checked and it didn't seems as if they were, though they do come somewhat close to the bumper. Im not even sure if its brakes or what it is, a friend of mine said possibly the hubs, but what can i do to pinpoint it? I wanna try loading down the front with something to simulate the drop when braking and see if the tires do indeed hit as when going to a rolling stop with only a little braking it doesn't do it. Any other things to check?
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So my 07 with 125k miles has had new rotors for about 50k miles or so, but for a while now when the brakes get hot it gets a violent shudder on braking at highway speeds....the odd part to me is nothing at lower speeds, and not always at higher speeds....do I just have warped rotors again? The rest of the front end I good and tight....
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So I bought my R with 9000 miles on it, and I noticed a little bit of shudder when braking. For some reason it is starting to get a little worse.....and I haven't been bagging on it. Really, warped rotors....at 9k.
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Truck is a '99 2WD with drum rear brakes. 81K miles. I rebuilt the rear brakes due to a leaking wheel cylinder. The old shoes were not completely gone, but were worn evenly - everything looked normal.
Not a professional wrench, but I've been re-doing my own drum brakes since the '60's, so it is not rocket science to me. Still, as a precaution, I did them one side at a time so as to have reference point, and also snapped a few cellphone pics just to be safe.
Replaced both wheel cylinders, all hardware, and of course the shoes. Gravity bled the cylinders first, followed by the old tried-and-true, wife in the driver's seat, "down-and-hold, now up" routine. Adjusted shoes to just contact drums lightly, and buttoned it up.
The problem is that I'm getting a violent chattering from the rear axle with either light or normal braking. The chattering is worse as the brakes warm up - shakes the whole truck. At first I thought I had a bad rear ABS sensor, but then I did a couple of stops just using the parking brake, and got the same chattering.
Now I've pulled the drums off to re-check. There is nothing loose, nothing out of place, nothing leaking, but there was a heck of a lot of brake dust in there and the lead shoes on both sides were noticeably more worn than the trailing shoes - and I've driven maybe 100 miles since the rebuild.
You can't reverse these shoes, since the trailing shoe has a peg to hold the automatic adjuster, so that is not the issue. The drums were turned less than 1000 miles ago, so I did not have them re-done at this point.
I had my "assistant" partly depress the brake pedal while I had the drums off to confirm that the cylinders were expanding both shoes, and they are.
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I got a phaeton v8, I feel a big shudder in the whole car while I have an amount of pressure on the brakes. for example: when approaching a red traffic light soft braking: no shudder, half braking: shudder and when hard braking the shudder is gone again. what could be the problem?
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2008 F250 Crew Cab 5.4, 79K miles, had new brake pads installed at 40K miles. Recently, I noticed front end shudder and some pedal pulsation while braking. It started kind of sudden. My first thought was a warped rotor.
When I took things apart, I found passenger side front rotor was cracked and the caliper pistons were rusted and falling apart, the old pads were only worn about half way. My thoughts on a bad rotor were confirmed, and then some.
I replaced the broken caliper, both front rotors, installed new pads on all four wheels, and bled the brakes. To my surprise, the brake shuddering did not go away. I'm stumped.
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I replaced the pads and rotors on the front end of my 2002 maxima (it had a shudder when braking from speed). By mistake, I did loosen the spindle nut, but re-tightened it. Braking is smooth, but I am plagued by noise. Used CRC on the back of the pads, have pulled the tires/wheels 3-4 times looking for looseness, mistakes, etc…. This is a pretty simple job – right? Even had the front wheel off my other 2002 (yes – I have 2…love this year/model) and compared them.
Did I cause an issue with the loosening and re-tightening of the spindle? Is this just a spline? I have it “wrench” tight and it had not loosened up even with 500 miles driving. There is not any play in the wheels mounted to the axle… What do I need to look at next?
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On our trip to Daytona this weekend I noticed a vibration/shudder between 45-55mph. Above and below that range it doesn't happen. Dont feel it in steering wheel or pedal. Does it in both 3rd and OD. Got under truck and driveshaft doesn't move at all. Just got those new tires put on a couple weeks ago. Don't remember this vibration before that.
Just checked tire pressure - front right 48 psi. All the rest have about 45 psi, would that do it? I have a shudder in brakes from stops above 45 mph I'm assuming warped rotors, could that do it?
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2010 Camry LE 4 Cylinder (~76,000 miles)
I purchased new tires for my Camry at a mileage of about 70,000 (~11/2015). I do mostly city driving. A few months ago I sometimes started noticing a steering column shudder upon braking when traveling at higher speeds (~50+ mph). I read on the web that this type of shudder is typically caused by warped rotors.
I was considering getting a front brake job (new rotors + pads), but decided to get a tire balance/rotation. It was reported that the right front tire was out of balance and that now all four tires are in balance. After the Balance/Rotation, the problem was still there but not as bad (Shudder reduced by at least 50% over what was experienced before the balance/rotation).
I went to a brake shop and discussed the problem and they said that they suspect that there may still be a problem with proper tire balancing. They recommended a second opinion on whether or not the tires were properly balanced. They did not explain 'second opinion' so I went to where the tires were balanced two weeks earlier (Discount Tire) and they did a free balance check and reported that all four tires are still balanced.
Basically, I have no detectable shudder at less than ~50 mph. All rotors and pads are the original ones that came with the car when it was new.
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Had a shudder/shaking sometimes on my 01 Superduty. Found left front caliper was sticking. Took it to a shop and he replaced both calipers and pads. Picking it up after he was done and he asked if I had the ABS light on before the work was done and I said NO. He tried and tried to get the light off but it is still on. Codes are C1155 and C1158. I got home and checked the abs connector it seemed ok. Looked at the master cylinder and it was a little low but also noticed he did not put the cap back on(it was just sitting aside). I kinda thought if he got air in the system....it would be a hard pedal but all works ok except for the ABS light. Will not go into how it shudders a little when stopping because he did not resurface the rotors like I asked. Maybe I should go back thru and bleed the brakes again?? The abs sensor on the hug is approx. 3 years old. and have never had the abs light on.
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I have an '09 Avalon with 34K miles. On braking we get a shudder. It's especially noticeable on gentle braking. I am pretty sure this is due to the brake rotors being warped or whatever the correct term is. Are these covered under warranty? I'm a skeptic and I feel sure the dealer will try and blame the tires but they are wearing evenly and are rotated every 5K. The ride is smooth when not braking so tire balance should not be an issue.
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Picked up my MK6 GTI DSG last Saturday. I have noticed a slight shudder when braking and coming to a gentle stop. At first I thought it may be the brakes bedding in so I kept it over the weekend. By today there's still no change. Is it normal for DSG transmission stop like this? Because I have never driven DSG transmission.
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I got a 2006 Solara SLE. while braking from highway speeds, the steering wheel shakes VIOLENTLY. city driving its not noticable. cruising the car is silky smooth. The one front caliper was sticking and i replaced pads, pins, rotor. Still shakes. i tried swapping pins as one pin has a sleeve at the tip and i didnt remember which one went where. i did notice the pin with no sleeve fits loosely. the rotor is AZ Duralast brand. the car has 200k trouble free with no suspension work ever done.
I am lost what to do and need to make a long trip coming up. I was going to try in order- replace other rotor, spin the one rotor and replace guide pin with a sleeved one, then do lateral run out test/lathe, alignment, then if that dosnt work a stick of dynamite. Iheard a bad tie rod or ball joint can cause this, i find it unlikely as it would probably shake all the time. Other small issue is a loud thunk in the rear when it hits bumps. Rear swaybar mounts?
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I've done the testing of hitting the brakes when the TC is locked and when it's off the shudder disappears. My question is I recently had a trans flush and both internal and external filters replaced. There was a hint of noise before then but it seems it's getting progressively worse. Could it be that they used the incorrect trans fluid? Reading through it seems as if I should follow the steps of dropping the pan and looking for signs and symptoms and then replace with the correct mercon fluid (if that's not already what's there). Then maybe some additives like shudder fix? I just want to make sure I take the correct steps to solve the problem as to not break the bank getting a new TC put in and missed something cheap and easy. Also reading it could be motor related maybe a misfire so just looking for pinpoint the problem.
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