Got a shudder noise similar to an exhaust leak on my Excursion V10. I have no codes ... engine idles and revs fine.. Only hear noise when under load. Goes away when you let off the gas.
View 8 RepliesRecently had a rear pinion leak and replaced the seal and nut. I jacked up the truck, took off wheels and felt the drag so I could duplicate once i had the new seal as I tightened the nut. I've done this only once before on my F150 years ago, but when I put the driveshaft back on and test drove it, i had shudder when not under load. So when I let off of the accelerator, it had shudder and more the faster I was going.
Obviously thinking this is a preload issue with the rear axle but would this be caused by tightening too much or too little. I had no issues before so I would think that the driveshaft itself is not the issue. I can't confirm that I got it bolted up in the exact same manner as before in relation to the flanges but still wouldn't think that to be the issue.
I've noticed that potentially my heat shield or whatever guard that is 1 step toward the front of the car from where the inlet pipe connects to the exhaust system may be the reason for my rattle at 2k and 3k rpms. i think its a heat shield but I am not sure. the thing is it seems properly mounted, nothing is cracked/broken/or loose. But when I do try and wiggle it it does make a slight creaking noise that sounds similar to the rattle I get. So I could foresee this as being my issue.
But, is there anyway to fix this rattle w/out just taking off the part? i figure its there for a reason and it looks like its held on in 2 places. But they're not nuts they almost look like spot welds or something. 1 on each side. What to do?
Something to get you all in here:
Can't put it off any longer. Cold start I am getting the exhaust leak at the manifolds on an '01 V10. It's worse on the passenger side than on the driver side. So, I know the bolts/studs fatigue and snap off causing this. With my luck probably flush in the head. So who has done these and how bad was it? If I'm going to do this I am going to swap in a set of shorty headers instead of installing gaskets.
View 14 RepliesWe bought the X like almost year an a half or two years ago. Since the day we bought her shes had an exhaust leak on the pass side. Ive been a mechanic forever and it didn't bother me at purchase. Well I finally get around to it this last weekend. My son and I get to repairing her on saturday. Well we got manifold off with the intention of ordering a new set of headers. Well Luke talks me into just replacing the broken stud (got lucky only had 1 on the pass side). And replacing the gasket. So I took the manifold to get resurfaced,got the new studs and gaskets.
We reassy everything. It went well, start her up and wow shes finally quiet. I love it. So were sitting there admiring our work (took most the day as we had to drive 40 minutes away 1 way to get parts and angle drill alone). As were sitting there chattin for 5 minutes im like do you hear that.....Its getting louder luke WTF.....WELL IN 5 MINUTES THE DAMN LEAK IS BACK... It sounds like its back at the original place but while listing with a hose it sounds like its also at the y pipe. But the sound can be traveling......
I def am not a fan of Autozones felpro gaskets but they have worked in the past. But they look NOTHING like the factory units but still should work. Well I searched all weekend and read tons of posts on what to get. As I def want to replace the y pipe also. In the end said ok,what the hell. I just got off the phone with BANKS. I ordered headers,y pipe,gaskets,etc. I didnt want to spend that much but after pricing headers (from all manuf's and a new y pipe) the BANKS complete system wasn't much more...
Kit should be here tomorrow or wed at the latest. And I just want my X to be exhaust leak free. Im not big on taken pics during install of stuff but ill try and ill post up after it done.
This is a 2000 EX with 146k miles on it bone stock. I have not done any of the regular maintenance on it yet or even gotten to really check this problem out. I am not driving it at this time mainly due to this problem.
The noise is heard the best at the rear of the engine and underneath the truck as the video shows. It seems to slightly change in sound (maybe a tad bit quieter) once I put it in gear (drive and reverse), I have not really heard a change in it after the truck has warmed up either. It does not sound at all really metallic to me..
[URL] ....
2000 excursion, 4X4, V10
A few days after the job was completed I noticed that the top stud on the driver's side closest to the firewall has signs of oil leaking from inside the hole. This is a hole that I had to drill and insert an 8mm Heli-coil. I was very careful on the depth of the hole I drilled. I tried removing the bolt and placing JB Weld high temperature epoxy into the hole and reinstalled the bolt. I waited over 24 hours for the epoxy to cure and then I checked for leaks. The leak re-appeared but has slowed down quite a bit. I have a USB endoscope that I will be using to inspect the inside of the hole to see if I can see where the leak is actually coming from. I am in no position to replace the head but I will do whatever it takes to get the truck back into service.
After 7 days in my garage, I finally removed/replaced all 20 manifold studs. I had to cut off all of the nuts to remove the manifolds. I was able to remove 17 out of 20 studs by using a 6 inch pipe wrench and a lot of coaxing. 3 of the studs were already snapped off inside the head. I drilled out two and was able to get them tapped for a Heli-coil. The third stud I broke a 1/8" cobalt drill bit inside and it took 4 days to get enough of the hole drilled out to get a Heli-coil inserted.
I've been chasing a problem all summer. Began with crappy batteries dying intermittently. I replaced the batteries, FICM, finally cleaned EGR valve and replaced ICP with pigtail. The problem is still persistent. Basically a rough idle, puff of whit smoke on cold startup, rough running at around 1500 rpms( driving at 50 mph). The ICP was soaked in oil so i was confident replacing it would finally cure my issues. It actually got worse with the rough idle turning to a surging idle and quite rumbly at 50 mph speed. I guess its time to look to injector issues but i thought id check if after replacing icp/ cleaning egr. I also have a slight exhaust leak at turbo out that i can see. The clamp is not seated properly. This after turbo connection to exhaust.
View 1 RepliesI have a 03 f150 2wd with the 4.6l. Recently it has been slow shifting into reverse(about 2 full seconds) and when it finally gets in reverse it shudders when it comes under load. The fluid is full and not burnt...
View 1 RepliesMy 2015 F-350 Super Duty has a noticeable vibration between 5 and 15 mph when accelerating with my 5th wheel. The 5th wheel is heavy--around 14000 pounds. The pin weight is heavy--around 3000 pounds. The Owner's Manual says on page 191 "When driving with a trailer or payload, a slight vibration or shudder may be present due to the increased payload weight..." (This was brought to my attention by my dealer.)
Seeing the thousands of F-250 and F-350 Fords pulling 5th wheels out there on the road, I wonder how many have this "slight vibration or shudder" and what they have done about it.
Well lately I haven't driven my truck much. Usually only on the weekends if Im lucky. Well I drove it today and I noticed this weird noise on acceleration. I have the cam phaser tick and have had that for about 50k miles or so. I started to think I was getting a manifold leak and that's what I thought this noise was until when I pulled over and put it in park and revved it up I did not hear the noise again.
It only does it when you hit the gas until you get to a steady rpm. I only drove 5 miles or so. So I couldn't do much testing cause its late and I got to get up in 4 hours. I don't even know how to explain the noise. It kinda sounded like an exhaust leak but it was more of like a lite thud noise I guess. Like I said it only does it when I hit the gas when its in drive but not in park. I tried to explain it the best I could. I just hope its not phaser problems cause I don't want to dump a bunch of money into it.
I tore it apart and there was no gasket or donut ring in the flange. Is there supposed to be a gasket or donut ring? I can feel the leak with my hand. I have retightened & it still "tick-ticks" real bad.
View 7 RepliesI just purchased a 2003 V10 with 270 000kms. The truck had had regular maintenance. It has an exhaust leak and runs a little bit rough. Could the exhaust leak cause the truck to run a little rough or am I dealing with another issue?
View 2 RepliesI have a 97 Expedition with the 5.4 engine and 160k miles. Recently while having other work done I was told that I had an exhaust manifold leak due to broken rusted bolts.
View 3 RepliesMy truck just started running really loud when it's cold and the leak goes away when it warms up to operating temperature.I did a little bit of investigating and I have found where the leak is coming from at the end of the exhaust manifold where the donut gasket meets the catalytic converters. It appears that the bolts rotted that hold the system together at the gasket. What should I do to repair this? I don't really want to replace the whole manifold because I know I'll break a stud off in the engine because everything is pretty rusty down there. I even took some pictures of the problem....
View 3 RepliesMy wife's 97 f150 4x4 had an exhaust leak on the passenger side. 7 out of the 8 bolts holding the manifold on are snapped off. 4 of them are snapped off 1/8" below the top of the hole on the cylinder head . I am I unable to get a drill in to drill these out. The other 3 I've tried welding a nut on these but they won't budge and I wring the nuts off. If I have to pull the head(something I don't want to do)can I just pull that 1 head or do I have to tear the intake and everything off?
View 1 RepliesActually developed a crack and subsequent leak in a pipe running lengthwise, so assume the factory weld over the years went bad. Since it would be a weld overhead, wonder what method would be best? Would oxy acetylene work or mig? I don't have a tig so that not an option for me.
View 2 Repliesi have a 2002 250 with the 7.3. i put a mbrp aluminized 4in turbo back with a FTE 30in resonator. I'm getting a lot of noise in the cab sounds like its where the turbo goes into the 4in pipe. the muffler guy said its because of the bigger pipe and not a leak. is there anything i can do to get rid of the excess noise.
View 8 RepliesI feel as though my APR turboback has an exhaust leak.
There is a loud hissing noise that overwhelms the exhaust, turbo and engine noise. What it is. Sounds like a loud hissing when then turbo begins to kick it. Not normal, and it slowly has gotten worse and more noticeable.
I have a feeling its the downpipe, but I can't check it myself. When i give it gas and the hood is open (at a standstill obviously), the engine compartment smells like exhaust fumes.
Could be playing mind games with myself. What do you all think? Any way to surely test and see? I am taking it to dealership on Tuesday to double check.
I have a Mk6 GTI 2010 and recently there has been some noise coming from the rear of the car and the noise changes with speed and sounds similar to a wheel bearing.. So I jacked up the rear and found that there was play in the passenger rear wheel.. The bolt holding the hub together was tight..
View 2 RepliesSo I finally went and put the exhaust I had been wanting on my truck. Pretty simple set-up. I had the factory muffler cut off and a flowmaster 40 series on it previously. I liked the sound under load and at cold start but normal driving I could not tell a difference from a factory muffler. So I had the flowmaster removed. I still have 4 cats so it's not crazy but it is loud. The only time I have cackle is on initial start-up not even at WOT which was a pleasant surprise. I just like the look of a single exhaust but still want some sound. I have been gone awhile as I needed a little break from starting and also being drawn in to arguments.
View 7 Replies