Have been getting stuck and not releasing when brake is applied? I know there is a rod that connects and releases this for brakes or something but can it be replaced easy or just bypassed which I would prefer ?
View 11 RepliesThis noise started this week. Grinding when I take my foot off the brake when in park and parking brake set. What is causing it?
A guy at work said brakes. The front brake pads were replaced last year. Original rear.
Just over 90,000 miles.
In the last couple of months I have noticed my '10 Prius III begins to roll forward or backwards about a foot depending upon which drive mode I select without releasing the brake. So here's the normal scenario I get in the car have my foot on the brake, turn it on wait for the ready beep/light, my foot has never left the brake or lessened pressure but not so much as to trigger the hill assist, I shift into D to go forward but say a car is coming and I don't want to go yet my car moves about a foot forward and I feel the brake pump up and then resist my foot. The same thing happens if I put it in R she rolls back a foot and stops. I don't recall noticing it before the great ECU update but I also can't say it didn't happen before the update was accomplished.
View 4 RepliesMy girlfriends 2013 Hyundai Accent is having some problems. Yesterday, the Check Engine Light came on, but went out on its own maybe 15 minutes later. She did not feel that the car was running any differently.
This morning, after the car being parked through the night with the parking brake applied (she usually does not apply the parking brake), she observed that it still felt like the brake was applied when she tried reversing out. I told her to pull and release the brake a few times, but she said it was no luck.
What this might be?
I recently purchased a 2001 Ford Excursion V10 Gas with 208k miles and have a problem with it. The problem Im having is that when I brake, it tends to go to the left. At first I thought it was a bad caliper so I took it to a local shop and I feel they ripped me of, they replaced brake lines, calipers, rotors, brakes, I even bought new tires as it needed some of this stuff anyways but the problem still there. In the end I was told they could not fix the issue and that I had a bad ABS module and only Ford could fix that. So I then took it to Ford who took 2 days with my truck and did who knows what then was told that the problem is a bad 'Hydraulic Control Unit' and it was going to cost me $1100 to get fixed. I have no clue what that is?
View 11 RepliesSo on our trip up here I experienced a strange problem. Normally when I apply my brakes my trailer brakes kick in via the controller. This time when I apply the brakes I'm only getting my truck brakes. I can still use the brake controller manually to slow down but it's worrying. What is going on.
View 7 RepliesThe closest car wash is less than two miles from our home and we often bring the GX home directly from the car wash and park it in the garage. We've noticed that the parking brake remains applied when we start the GX the next morning, even though the foot pedal releases. Presumably, the parking brake components were wet from the car wash and enough rust/corrosion forms overnight so that the springs to release the brake can't overcome the 'stiction'.
The GX "squats and grunts" when we put it in gear, but doesn't move. Shifting into reverse solves the problem ... there's a loud 'pop' from the rear of the vehicle as the brake releases, the GX starts to move, but in reverse, which we quickly stop with the service brake, then we shift into forward and drive off ... did I mention that we back into our garage?
I may already have confessed that we are heavy parking brake users ... every time we park the vehicle, even if just temporarily while we step out of the vehicle to get the mail, etc. We use the parking brake so much that the cable stretches and every year our dealership has to re-tension.
Daughters 03 mountaineer. Have changed the brake light switch, bulbs and checked the only fuse I could find for the brake lights. She can drive it by doing the override under the column but still has no brake lights and is an accident waiting to happen. What else to check? Is there a relay or another fuse I could be missing? I'm lost.
View 8 Replieshaving problem w/ 98 f-150. first truck stuck in park. figured out how to get around that (turn key 1 position, shift to neutral, start vehicle, then engage transmission). but no brake lights! I have turn signals, driving lights, hazards, etc in rear. I disconnected harness from brake light switch. there are 2 leads, 1 hot, 1 not. i jumped them and no brake lights. i tested the switch and it functions properly (it's reconnected now). i changed my bulbs in tail lights. I unplugged the solenoid (which is impossibly located behind/beside steering column). this allowed me to shift like an old truck (without having to brake first), but doesn't solve my lack of brake lights (i've reattached the solenoid harness to remind me of my problems).
i am putting my money on a broken wire somewhere between the brake light switch (b/c that was good) and the solenoid (i am not hearing that faint click when i step on brake). but a broken wire should work by accident some of the time (unless cut cleanly and completely). there is a green wire with red stripe leaving the brake light switch and 3 wires at the solenoid harness (1 green and maybe a smaller gauge than those at the switch and 2 others which i don't recall their colors). Ford service manager doesn't think it's the solenoid but wasn't otherwise useful except to say, "hey, why don't you bring it in to me." What to look for before i plunk down for someone to perform what I already have before completing the job!
can i splice a wire from something (? brake light switch?) to something (?wire in solenoid harness?) or does that "electronic signal" get processed somewhere else first?
My 2012 F250 6.7 once again (third time in 2k miles) got stuck in park with no brake lights or traction control. I found that removing the shroud from the steering wheel allowed me to manually activate the solenoid and get into gear but could only drive in manual shift mode.
Something is causing the brake switch fuse to blow. When I replace the fuse all is well for maybe 1k miles then it happens again! After the second time I replaced the brake switch thinking it was the cause but no deal. It happened a third time. The dealer who fixed it the first time could not find the cause.
This is frustrating and downright dangerous! What in the circuit could be causing the short?
I was recently having some AC issues, I dropped the glove box to check the cabin filter, That's when all hell broke loose., I noticed a plug in one of the boxed was loose, I pushed it in and the car started beeping, so I shut the car off, then started it, Its park brake was stuck, so I tried everything from disconnecting 12v batt, to disconnecting the high voltage batt and then both. Now it won't run, won't do anything and throws no codes.
View 3 RepliesSo lately this has been getting worst. You have to step on the brake before you can shift out of park. Well lately I have to step on the brake a few times before the safety will let you get into gear.
View 7 RepliesMy 1.8T with auto trans is stuck in park. I've read that the likely culprit is the break light switch but before I order the part and install it I wanted to check what else it can be because it was working fine before I fixed some coil wires. Basically I unplugged the ECU and tested continuity from the coil connectors to the ecu connectors.
I found an issues, resolved it, plugged everything back in, fire the car up, turned it off, re-installed all the covers, etc. Then I repaired a broken wire in the trunk lid wiring that was broken. But when I went to back it out of my garage I couldn't get it out of park.
If it's just happened to go while doing all this other work then it's just a coincidence, but are there other things I can check based on the ignition work I've been doing?
Ok so this is the problem now, i went to check my fuses and pulled a #20 out to see if the cigarette lighter fuse was blown. Guess what? i start the car and all of a sudden the Electronic Parking brake failure kicked on. I tried to get the car out and now it won't get out of park! FML i heard that you can just unplug the battery for 15 min and that should reset the car but who knows... I got vw roadside coming to see what they can do it might need to get towed though
View 7 Replies4 days ago, my '04 Chevy Aveo (89,300 miles) would not shift out of park and no brake lights were coming on. I had to use the shift lock release to start the car in neutral, and I took it to dealer. Dealer replaced the brake switch. One day later, the problem returned. I took back to dealer, and they showed me that the light blue "15" stop fuse (the right column of fuses, second one down) had blown. They replaced. It again worked for a day, and the problem came back. Each time I put a new 15 fuse in now, it works temporarily, but now fries either immediately or within an hour. In order to drive, I still have to use the shift lock release, which isn't great, because it means I have to drive without brake lights.
View 10 RepliesI have a 1962 ford falcon ranchero. The driver side brake light, goes out when brake pressure is applied, but is on when lights are fully on, but even then brake pressure is applied and goes out. Right brake light is fine. And turn signal on right works. But driver side back light goes out when brake pressure is put on and when turn signal is put for left side. Right makes a turn noise left side doesn't. I recently replaced the turn signal switch. So its brand new. But older wires every where else. No cuts anywhere on wires. Fine. And replaced the bulb also.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2000 X 5.4... There is a loud roaring noise when releasing gas pedal or stopped (doesn't matter whether its in park or drive)...noise stops when giving gas...the noise is almost like a bull horn...there are no engine lights on so can't get a code...
View 8 RepliesJust noticed this tonight. While making a left turn, I had the blinker on and had the brakes applied and noticed the indicator on the instrument cluster was blinking. Once off the brakes, it took it a few seconds for it to resume blinking.
When I got home, I checked to see if the right signal did the same and it did. I also checked the rear lights and when the signal is on and the brakes are applied the light does not blink nor does it brighten up like they're supposed to when the brakes are applied, it stays dim as if both the blinker and brakes are off.
I did a quick search. I have not checked any of the bulbs or wiring, but I'm thinking it might be the turn signal switch/ lever. What the problem might be?
My 2006 Elantra (54,000 miles) shifts really, really hard when it's not cold and passes through the 35 mph range -- hard enough to make you glad you've got your seatbelt on. I've taken it to my regular mechanic and now it's in an automatic transmission shop.
My mechanic changed the fluid (twice), and took it through a "learning sequence". The fluid didn't look that bad and he reported that there were no codes to work with. He thinks I'm going to have to get a new transmission.
The AT shop has confirmed that there are no codes to work with and that the problem begins at 143 degrees. They tell me that the transmission is shifting into a higher gear without releasing the lower gear. They tried replacing a couple of solenoids, but that yielded no change in behavior. Now, they're telling me they "think" I need a new computer. I'm just afraid the trial & error approach is going to cost me a boat-load.
I should probably arm myself with a sound clip, you can hear it with radio off windows up, but more prevalent outside or windows down. whenever I stop and release the brake, there is a metallic clank noise that is heard outside the car. now I didn't want to bring it up to the dealer, but at my last service interval, I test drove a brand new Prius C and I could not duplicate it. So I don't know if its something that developed after it brakes in and is normal.. The prius C I test drove was utterly quite going from brake to gas until the point the whirling sound starts. mine has a metallic clank and it usually is not immediately as I release but within a second, and I thought maybe it was a change in the regen system, but now I am more curious as a brand new one did not make that sound.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2005 Murano, 96K.
In Aug 2011, I had the rear disc brakes/rotors replaced. Front ones were replaced in Feb of this year.
For the past month, whenever I release the brake, I hear squealing (no sound when I press the brake to stop). Last about 5 secs, or until I hit about 15-20 MPH. Seems to happen only after the brakes heat up. I've tried to "Google" the answer, but the answers are mostly for drum brakes.