Ford Excursion :: Shifter Linkage Is Very Stiff And Not Accurate
Jul 21, 2017
My daily driver is a Ford pickup. But we recently acquired a 2003 Excursion.
-5.4L V8
-3.73 rear end
-2WD
It is an Eddie Bauer, and despite its age and 150k miles, it is in really nice shape. It runs and shifts very smoothly. So far, we've replaced the rear glass hydraulics, put 4 new tires and a wheel alignment on it, replaced one brake line from the front to the rear, replaced a cracked rim and one missing wheel hub cap. The driver's seat base cushion leather is ripped, but I procured a replacement leather seat cushion cover which is brand new and a perfect match to the original two-tone leather.
Otherwise, the radio works fine, A/C front and rear is ice cold. The shifter linkage is very stiff and not accurate. I'm guessing the switch selector on the outside of the transmission is failing?
The driver's side power window does not work, and the reverse sensing system has only worked once. The switch always says "off" and if you push it, it won't stay in the "on" setting.
But anyway, here it is .....
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Having trouble with shifter not going into park. The linkage is sloppy. Is there a bushing kit or something to tighten up the linkage?
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So I just got 42dd shifter bushings and im having some issues!
Installation was no problem but once you complete the install you are supposed to re-adjust the linkage. First you have to lock the shifter in place, both in the cabin and in the engine bay (as shown in this Diesel Geek video: [URL] .... )
The only trouble I'm having is that i cannot locate the locking pin as shown in this integrated engineering picture: [URL] .....
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It's not the lock, it's the linkage. The actuator has been replaced and still can't lock/unlock it. Using the key is really tough to turn, but it will with enough force applied. Last summer I sprayed it with lube and it worked for a while, now we're back to square one. It's really clean, just acts like something is bent/worn.
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The gear shifter in my auto trans 05 Elantra is really stiff when shifting different gears. I was running fine as I went to work and back today with no problems. After I got back from work, the car was off for 30-40 mins. Then I went back and started the car and the gear shifter was stiff but still shiftable. I checked under the car to and fluid leaks but didn't see anything. What may be the issue here?
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So the Ex came to me with a 6" spring lift in front and 5-1/2" blocks on the rear. It's always been a little stiff and bouncy. More than it should, in my opinion. There are also some occasional low-speed groans coming from under my feet.
On a recent inspection, I noticed the spring eye bushings are a little worn (front springs, the rear bushing of the spring). In taking the rear or the front leaf away from the shackle, I noticed that the shackle would not swing at all. This could be a problem. If the shackle can't swing fore and aft, then the suspension can't articulate, making the ride super stiff and bouncy. This could also wear out the spring eye bushing.
The design of this shackle looks very simple. Maybe too simple. A bolt goes through the top, and through holes in the frame. If this bolt is tight, then the top of the shackle is clamped to the frame and can't pivot. Is this right? Is it safe to loosen this bolt? Should it be lubricated?
BTW 2005 Excursion XLT 4x4 V10
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Overdrive off button hasn't worked in a couple years and there is no power to the switch so I figure the wires across the column are damaged. Even after replacing the button a couple times the ends were always falling off so I'm ready to replace the entire shifter arm assembly. I also need to replace the bushings since the arm is loose.
I will also be installing yet another turn signal since the one from Rock Auto didn't last long. The new one will be from Auto Zone, which said the shifter arm is a dealer only item.
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I've been experiencing the ever so popular sloppy shifter lever in my 02 excursion. So naturally I started prowling around the site looking for answers to my issues. I have ensured both of the torx bolts are present and tight at the end of the shift tube on the bracket that connects to the shifter cable and have replaced the shift tube (It was worn out) and it worked great but has not completely fixed the issue so today I crawled underneath the truck to try and adjust the shift cable and have found that the detent in the shift linkage from the gear position sensor that runs to the shift mechanism (not sure what it's called) that is inside the transmission is really nonexistent, it is effortless to move it from P to R but from R to N is good and stiff like it should be but from N to D and D to 2 is effortless. I have zero experience with what creates the detent inside of the transmission and looking for a link or pictures or write up something that I can look over and attempt to educate myself on before I dive in to this blind....
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So lately this has been getting worst. You have to step on the brake before you can shift out of park. Well lately I have to step on the brake a few times before the safety will let you get into gear.
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My 2000 ford excursion gauges fuse keeps popping. It started earlier this year and I couldn't pin point when it would pop. Now I'm sure after 30.00 worth of fuses that it happens when I change the gear shifter from park or rev to drive.
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My reverse lights and back up alarm will not engage unless i hold up on the shifter while in reverse the only thing i found was a adjuster for the indicator....
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Looking for a pic or diagram or able to explain it well, of how the valve body engages the shift linkage/kickdown on a c6. I need a pic of the actual valve body itself and how it engages INSIDE the pan NOT externally.
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My 2012 F250 has begun making a noise. The noise is coming from somewhere in the linkage (drivetrain). It sounds like new knobby tires on a paved road but not constant more like (rrrr-rrrr-rrrr). The frequency of the noise increases the faster the vehicle moves. It does not make the sound while revving the engine in park and the noise does not change between dirt road of paved road, so I'm pretty sure it's not the tires or the engine. Could it be something like the tachometer needing lubricant??? Its kind of loud.
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My truck has developed a bad habit when it is cold (as in outside air below freezing and engine cold): The accelerator pump arm rubs against the throttle arm hard enough to bind the throttle partially open (NEVER a good situation!). I've removed the carb and verified that everything "looks" right:
1) The throttle shaft is in the right location and doesn't have any side to side movement.
2) The accelerator pump arm pivot is straight
3) The accelerator pump arm is straight (It's design makes it a bit difficult to just "bend" the arm side to side and I shouldn't have to do that anyway...)
4) The throttle arm is straight
After taking the arm off and straightening it out (repairing my attempts at a "field" repair...), verifying the linkage and then reinstalling and adjusting the AP, everything was working perfectly on the bench (kitchen table...), so I went ahead and reinstalled the carb (always fun at 10:30pm when it is 7F outside and the freaking wind is blowing at 30mph!).
By the time I got everything bolted down and hooked back up, the carb had cooled off a LOT, and the linkage was once more binding. I have no doubt that if I bring it in and let it warm back up, it will work perfectly.
So, what could be the problem? Do I just need to say the heck with it and hit the side of that lever with a file to get the cold clearance it just doesn't have? I can't imagine that this is a common problem with Holley 4160 carbs...
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99 v10 auto 4x4. Won't go into park completely. Have to start in neutral. was fine yesterday, now it doesn't work. if it wasn't snowing like crazy id just crawl around and find out. do our trucks have a linkage? or shift cable? I imagine I am just out of adjustment somewhere. any advice what to look for or where to start when the snow finally stops??
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I noticed last night while messing with my truck that I have a constant small spark on my throttle linkage on my carb. BTW, it's a 77F250 with a quick fuel Ethanol carb with an electronic choke. That really probably don't make a difference anyway. Is this a common thing and do I need to run a grounding wire from the carb to the rest of the engine?
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But here's too my question. I recently bought a 2wd Ford ranger 2.9 automatic. Bought not running. They said it wouldn't turn over that there was something wrong with the starter. I figured it was the neutral safety switch turned out it was there's a wire broke on it. I can get in there touch the wires together and it'll turn over. But I can't fix it because the shifting linkage is In the way. I'm wondering how too take it off. I've never worked on one before. And I don't wanna mess up my gears.
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I've got a 99 F-250 7.3 with the 6 speed manual. My speedometer is accurate to within 1 mph or so. However when compared to a GPS unit, my odometer is off by about 50%...meaning it registers approximately 1 mile for every 2 traveled.
I was under the impression the mechanism that results in the speed being displayed is the same one driving the odometer and therefore if one was off, the other would be (conversely, if the speedo is accurate, so would be the ODO). How do I resolve this issue?
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Ok. I wanted to pick the minds to make it easier. In the photos the lower steering linkage is loose (bottom bar with ring on the end connected to knuckle) and needs replacement. To fix this is it just a bushing inside? Is it unscrewing the end like replacing a tie rod?
2008 F350 CC DRW
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just got 20" rims 295/65/20 Nittos. Is my odometer accurate and speedometer?
Not that it matters but its a 99 F350 CC LB 3.73 axle ratio
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The 19.5" wheels are not an option on the 2013 F-450, unless you order a Chassis Cab. I'm certain many have made this change. My question is can the dealership make the necessary changes so the speedometer correctly measures the vehicle speed?
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