I am wanting to put subs in the cargo area behind the 3rd row seats. Running power under the car back there? I'd like to come up between the 2nd and 3rd row seats since the amp will be right behind the 3rd row.
View 14 Replies2003 Ex limited 2wd, 6.0L ... Reoccurring wet floor in the rear right side of their truck? I am trying to figure out if it is a lift gate/door seal that has a leak or if its the rear A/C evaporator compartment.
View 14 RepliesI've had my v for about a year and I find that I have many scratches and gouges especially in the cargo area. The plastic seems much easier to damage than any car I've ever had. I'll need to be especially careful in the future. But I would like to find a way to cover up, seal or patch the damages.
View 1 RepliesNoticed this during a recent trip halfway cross country. It did POUR for part of the trip, but I didn't notice the wetness until a few days after we were at our destination. Further, none of our luggage etc was wet, so I don't suspect a leak in the rubber gaskets along the window. We did have the A/C running constantly while in 90° heat. I checked underneath the car; saw no obvious signs of rust on the underside. I did see a hose and some type of contraption on the passenger side rear, above the muffler - it was dripping water. Is this part of the A/C system, and could it be the cause of dampness in the carpet?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2007 Santa Fe 3.3L. Water has begun leaking into the rear cargo area when it rains. It was raining today so I went out to look and the water is coming in through the rear cargo light. None of the headliner is wet. My guess is the water is coming in around the rear hatch seal but I can't find any area where it could get in.
View 4 RepliesWell, we let my son take our 2009 Subaru Forester across the country to college, and of course, the car seems to be having issues now. He says he is hearing a "sloshing" sound under the car towards the rear (cargo area) whenever he stops or goes over speed bumps. He insists that he has looked under seats and in crevices for loose items with liquid in them, and nothing. He also hasn't noticed (yet) any spots on the ground under the car.
View 6 RepliesMy 2007 Prius has had the sound of water sloshing for a few weeks. On Monday a light on the dashboard (red triangle with exclamation mark) lit up. Took the car to the dealer and they diagnosed water in the cargo area which created corrosion on the prongs of the little white box which connects to the battery. I was told the rear window weather stripping needed replacing.
View 3 RepliesHaving problem with the left cargo door not opening!? You can pull the handle the cable moves but the door wont open, thinking maybe it a latch mechanism.
View 7 Replies2000 7.3 180,000 miles. It sounded like I was in passing gear from the turbo but not as loud or strong. The tach never moved like it would if it was in passing gear. We kicked it in and out of overdrive, pushed the O/D, no change. Then while driving it would just go quite/back to normal. Oh forgot, this was while pulling a cargo trailer with a total weight of about 4,500 lbs...
View 5 RepliesWhen I purchased the 09 XLS last year the seller told me the trunk/cargo light didn't work and I assumed it was a bulb. The bulb could have come in handy several times so I attempted a repair. I removed the bulb and it seemed to be ok, but I decided to replace it will a new 2825 and it also didn't work. I'll assume there is no dedicated fuse specifically for the trunk/cargo light so I guess there must be a break in the line.
Is this common for the Avalon in our generation? It's too cold to diagnose so I'll have to wait for warmer weather unless it's an easy repair.
Every time I push the pedal I hear a faint high pitched squeak ?
Also cargo area has a rattling sound that increases at highway speeds.
280 miles.
Experiencing a metallic click or something alike when coming to a full stop?
I've notice this new noise and it seems to happen about 0.5 seconds after the car has come to a complete stop, not during the stopping. It only happens when stopping at a red light, and it doesn't do it on stop and go traffic.
It also doesn't seem to coincide precisely with applying the brakes because is AFTER the car has stopped, again, in less than a second. I hope that makes any sense.
It happens maybe 25% of the time but, then again, if I go to the dealership I'll probably won't be able to reproduce it.
Water intrusion problem in the cargo area of the GX? I was getting ready to wash my GX and as I was pulling out my Weather tech cargo liner... I discovered that it was completely wet underneath and the whole rear carpet was damp and slightly musty smelling. I have recently driven through two very heavy rains...but nonetheless the Lexus should be watertight... Is this a known issue? Is there an area where it is possible for water to come in through the rear floor?
View 14 RepliesOur 2012 SE has an intermittent rattle somewhere in the rear of the Tiguan when riding on even moderately rough pavement. Ultimately I'll have to crawl around back there while my wife drives up and down a rough road to locate the rattle, I guess, What was the source of the rattle.
View 16 RepliesI need to locate the specs or blueprints of the rear cargo door hinges. Junkyards thus far, are not willing to sell just the hinges.
View 8 RepliesDrove my truck for the first time in a few months and there was a noticeable ticking coming from the passenger side glovebox area when the HVAC is running. I cycled between AC and fresh air and the sound persisted. What it could be?
Took a quick video on my phone, you'll have to turn up the audio to hear the ticking : 2011 F350 HVAC ticking - YouTube ....
When I first start my excursion in the morning, it starts fine, idles fine. If I don't let it sit for about 5mins plus i have this issue. I will start off and it has no power at all. I can barely get up to 20mph. It doesn't seem to want to change gears, I don't hear the turbo spool up. Then all of a sudden it will go to next gear, turbo spools up and it has power again. It is like I said a 6.0 power stroke, its a 2004 excursion with 214k miles.
View 11 Replies2004 Crewcab Lariat longbed 4wd. My interior and cargo lights stay on. I got in the other day and opened the truck to start it and when I closed the door the lights stayed on. I did a search and tried the following:
Lubed all the doors
Pulled door switches apart to verify operation
Disconnected the remote keyless entry module
Disconnected the instrument panel
Disconnected light switch
I found the following:
When I alarm the factory alarm with remote the alarm chirps once with doors closed, twice with them open. Looks like door switches are working.
Disconnected light switch. Lights stayed on
Disconnected Keyless entry module, lights stayed on
If I disconnect the instrument panel I can hear a relay switch. That tells me the relay isn't stuck. The lights do turn off at this point and will go off when I pull the fuse for the instrument panel.
Door switches all seem to work fine as eveidenced by factory alarm operation and the door opening indicator turns off.
Not sure where else to look and my Google Fu is not very strong today as I could not find anything like this issue.Is there another module that could be bad?
I have a 2004 Excursion with a 6.0 Bought the truck already studded, EGR deleted, and a 54V FICM. When I bought the truck it had a hot stall, no restart problem. Found the high pressure oil leaks and resealed them by replacing the #3 injector and replacing the top injector seal in the #4 .Oil pressure reads very good now and I drove the truck for a couple weeks problem free.
Truck started smoking (white to gray) and felt like it had a miss. No misfire or contribution codes. Truck failed the bubble test and I narrowed the leak down to the passenger side by removing the banjo bolt
Banjo bolt at the front of the passenger head
Found the #3 injector loose...the copper washer
Copper washer had disintegrated/melted and appeared to be stuck to the side of the injector. Scraped off easily enough, cleaned up the injector and injector cup and reinstalled the injector with new O-rings and copper washer.
Put the truck back together and still smoked the same and still felt like it had a miss. Ran KOER test and found sometimes a contribution code for #2 and sometimes #6 .
Drove the truck to work and it didn't feel down on power...mostly just smoked and rough idle...but on the way home there was a lack of power and just as I pulled into my driveway the truck stalled...wouldn't restart. FICM voltage was good, high pressure oil read over 900, IPR was holding around 40%.
Pulled the secondary fuel cap
Secondary fuel cap to run another bubble test...there was no fuel in it...completely empty. Started to think that I had a fuel feed problem. Hooked up a fuel pressure gauge
Fuel pressure gauge and drove the truck again...pressure wasn't great (45 lbs) but never dropped below 42...not even when it stalled. Pulled the cap again...dry again...yet the truck read fuel pressure.
Research showed that I was possibly pressurizing the fuel system with combustion pressure and that was possibly displacing the fuel from the fuel system. This would explain the run for a few minutes, then stall and no restart for a few minutes...I'm assuming that the pressure would bleed off and the fuel pump would start over.
Still failing the bubble test and still pointing to the passenger side. I pulled and recleaned the injector and cup...new orings
oRings and copper washer. Bubble test again...fail.
Pulled glow plug from #3 , failed bubble test still.
Pulled glow plug from #1 , failed.
Pulled #5 , failed...pulled #7 ...failed.
With no glow plugs in the passenger head I am still bubbling up to the fuel filter housing. Pulled the banjo bolt from the front of the drivers side head...no more bubbles.
Its a first Generation I have had about a year, had some of the typical issues with a vehicle this old---bad connection with a relay under hood, cracked fan blade, IAC, nothing I could not find.
Temp (issue is getting worse) runs up to high end of "Normal" yet I note radiator does not seem overly hot. (to the touch).
Antifreeze tests very good and is full---no signs of leaks or liquid in the oil.
I am hoping thermostat or radiator===vehicle has been well maintained and does not show rust in the coolant, and no signs of leakage around the pump or anywhere else---coolant level does not drop.
I am planning on removing the thermostat and seeing if same issue with it removed====it should rule that out or not----
It is not boiling over but just running towards the high end of the normal area.
I have an '04 EX Limited 6.0L. This past January while driving in CO from TX the truck overheated while driving stop and go in a small area looking for a particular store. The fan kicked in as it should have and it cooled some, but I begin to notice during the trip that anytime I was sitting still it would overheat. I had front and rear AC controls on heat as it was very cold. When driving normal speeds engine temps would cool down. The Heater would begin to blow cold air as the temp would rise when sitting still or barely moving. Got home and found radiator a little low of fluid and filled to just below the modified full line.
Fast forward 5 months. I've had no problems at all since until about 2 weeks ago I noticed the smell of antifreeze every time I would exit the truck. The degas bottle still looked full if you checked it cold or once you depressurized the system. No signs of puking. This past Friday after driving home from about an hour away I had to stop at a particularly long stop light and the AC began to blow hot air. I checked my temps(scanguageII) and it was getting hotter the longer I sat. Checked degas bottle when I got home no problems. I've been trying to get it to do this again but no luck. Suspected that it may be the heater core for the rear AC, but turning it on in any temp hasn't duplicated results.