Ford Excursion :: Rumbles On Equilibrium Between Throttle And Speed - Driveshaft?
Jul 5, 2015
I have a driveline resonance in my V10 2wd X. Before I changed the U Joints, it rumbled on deceleration. Now it rumbles on an equilibrium between throttle and speed. I think it is driveline related because the new U Joints reduced its scope. When I go over a bridge on the interstate, the rumble goes away in that brief period when the vehicle goes up and the tires go down.
I've had 2 exhaust breaks that occurred during 2 Florida pulls. I'm guessing they are related to the resonance.
The rumble changes when the vehicle is lifted when hitting a bridge, coule the angle of the driveshaft be wrong? What could fix that? I do have 195,000 miles.
View 10 Replies
Advertisement
I have an F-150 Heritage 4.2L V6 Manual 4X4 and over the last few weeks have notice a couple of odd things. First I noted an odd screeching sound, similar to a rock caught in the break drum, but it seemed to be coming from under the cab/bed, not a tire. It only seemed to show up under relatively heavy throttle, which I thought was odd. I went through a car wash with a good under carriage spray, and the sound went away.
A few days later it snowed and the sound returned. I don't know that it's actually related...but that's how the weather went... Now, when I let off the throttle and the engine holds the truck back there is a "thump", and when I reapply the throttle, it thumps again. If I press the clutch in first, then release the throttle there is no thump; so I assume this is something with the drive shaft.
I climbed underneath and found that I do have some play in the shaft, I can twist it a tiny bit so I know that I have play in the shaft which (and I am NO mechanic) I assume is not normal. I can see the shaft turning all the way to where it goes into the back of the transmission so I assume the play is coming from the rear yoke?
I thought I could replace the yoke relatively cheaply but I keep stumbling across posts indicating that with this particular set up, I actually have to replace the whole drive shaft. What I could be looking at, and what my options are?
View 3 Replies
So I have 3 rear u joints and a vibration. I swear I read some where that there was a change to the rear shaft to aid in vibrations. So if that's the case could someone point me in the right thread or tell me what one to use. I have access to both....
View 14 Replies
I own a 2000 Ford Escort ZX2 with an automatic transmission. I also own a 1991 Fleetwood Cadillac with an automatic transmission. Each car has its own situation.
The ZX2 idles high (about 1000 RPM) and rumbles pretty roughly while idling. I was curious as to what the cause might be.
The Cadillac has a blown head gasket and I was wondering how expensive and what would go into fixing this myself or just how much it would run going through a dealer.
View 4 Replies
Friend has 1996 Explorer EBE. When you reach 60 MPH the entire truck rumbles down the road. Increasing speed has no effect and the sense it not as if the source is a wheel or a particular corner of the truck, the entire truck rumbles like when you run over those "wake up the driver" bumps you find on the side of the highway. So my thinking is transmission - case maybe since it is the entire truck that rumbles ....
View 5 Replies
248k miles on it, was taken from a body shop and put on side of road, I know who took it but can't prove it. He is known for messing with ppl vehicles. . Started up just fine when found, but you can hold foot completely down on gas and it's like it is losing pressure (?) , it rumbles and shakes when running and you can watch the RPMS fall while holding gas pedal down (in park) until it just dies. It has an "egg" smell and one side will get hot while the other stays cold. It was something intentionally done to my vehicle. .already checked Cadillac converter and cleaned/removed muffler. I'm not sure where to start looking now, I'm a single mother without the money to take it to a repair shop. We could drive it onto the trailer to get it to a friend house, but barely made it up it without dying...
View 9 Replies
Just recently under heavy throttle my a/c will stop coming through dash and goes to defrost??
View 2 Replies
Finally had a chance to pull the coils for inspection, and give the truck some very needed plugs. anyways, since i got it, the truck on initial start will rev itself up to about 3k rpms. it will almost always die after that rev. with the MAF sensor disconnected, it will rev to about 2k rpms, and the idle, if you can call it that, around 1k rpms. it will buck, jump, spit, burp, chug, pop, blow, and phew noises the whole time. I can rev the truck at this point but the throttle repsonse is poor. it does rev with a slight misfire, but no popping like what it does at idle. the exhaust has been dropped before the cat, so i know its not a plugged cat. i feel it could possibly be a sticking idle control valve allowing air past behind the MAF sensor causing this crazy scenerio
View 7 Replies
It's time to do some oil change and is using 10w30 synthetic but the truck is eating fuel like crazy and I can hear some kind of knocking when full throttle .
Sparks , boots and fuel filter is new . The mechanic said I should put some lighter velocity oil . truck odo 130k v10 hot hot weather .
View 14 Replies
The adjustable brake pedal on my excursion works fine, but the throttle doesn't and never did adjust. It just doesn't move at all. Why? Just a bad electric motor on the adjuster? Just curious if there is something common that fails before I delve into trouble shooting it more.
View 7 Replies
As the title says, I just replaced my JVC harness and glow plugs, now it start and run fine, but it will suddenly raise the idle to 1000rpm, and sit steadily untill I press the gas pedal, then it will fall into its normal idle range. I replaced the stuff today, and I did not get the time to get the engine hot, or test drive it, before I had to leave. But the engine did start fine, and idle fine. Except from the sudden raise after a few minutes idling, it will then hold around 1k rpm.
Strange, can't remember if it did that before. I get no fault codes on my SCT device. The car has been sitting for 3 months before I finally got the glowplug relay, mine was non functional.
View 4 Replies
Carburetor: Autolite 4100
Fast Idle Speed: 1250 RPM
Curb Idle Speed: 600 RPM (At normal operating temperature)
When I cold start my truck, the fast idle speed holds the throttle at 1500 RPM. I will let it idle about 30 seconds or so, and then I will tap the gas to bring the idle down.
When I do this, the idle will immediately drop all the way down, and too low for a cold engine. The engine won't stall, but it will hover just below 500 RPM, which is a bit too low to idle smoothly.
But when the engine is at operating temperature, the idle speed is 600 RPM and the engine will happily idle smoothly.
Shouldn't there be an "in between" speed? When I tap the gas pedal at 1500 RPM to bring the idle down some, shouldn't the speed drop down a little lower, like 1000 RPM since the engine is still a bit cold?
If so, what do I need to adjust? The Autolite 4100 works PERFECTLY otherwise.
View 1 Replies
I don't think I am in the right forum but I don't know where to post it. I have a 20th and when the car idles it shakes a little but when I take off the car rumbles alot the only way not to make it rumble is rev it to 1500rpm what can it be causing this?? I have a catback tt exhaust can it cause it to do it?
View 1 Replies
Lately my Ion has become increasingly harder to start, especially in the cold. I have found that if I depress the gas pedal all the way to the floor when I turn the key it starts easily but rumbles and smokes a little when it starts. If I do not press all the way down it won't start right away but will take 5 or 6 tries or not start at all. Otherwise the car runs fine once its started.
View 7 Replies
I got a Toyota Celica 2001 recently from my dad and when I put the throttle all the way to the grown it barley speeds up as if it has some kind of throttle limiter so I can't speed everything else is fine it's a manual I just can't give it gas if I want to speed up really fast or race whatever the case is. How to remove the limiter or whatever else it is ?
View 2 Replies
1999 Passat GLS, 1.8T, 5 Speed, 162K miles on car, 50K miles on replaced head after a timing belt snap.
Okay, first issue, car accelerates smoothly, and holds interstate speed just fine. BUT, when you lift off the throttle at speed, you get a shimmy-shake out of the front suspension like the tires are suddenly out of balance. Back on the skinny pedal, smooths back out. Never touching the brakes during this whole cycle.
Second issue is what I found tucked into the rear storage compartment with the first aid symbol. No first aid kit (should there be one?) but two extra quarts of oil. 10W-30, uh, dino oil. Not synthetic. I got no maintenance records other than a copy of the repair invoice for the head work, so I'm not sure what oil was used in regular oil changes, but at least the "top-off" quarts are not the right stuff. Should I be overly concerned? Should I immediately do an oil change to Mobil 1 like I was planning? What about some kind of engine flush?
View 4 Replies
Brooklyn mechanic says "every Jeep Cherokee 2000 6 cyl. 4x4 has this problem--number 3 cylinder mis-fires because it can get too hot". When I return from the country to the city, unload Jeep at the apartment, then, after about 15 minutes, re-start Jeep, it bucks and rumbles and misfires with no power from motor. I pump the gas pedal, and after about a minute it settles down.
Country mechanic has done smoke tests, looked all over for any compression leak, replaced gas cap, put insulation tape over #3 cylinder, and reported that this problem is in the "data bank" of Cherokee problems, where ever that data bank is. The question is, can one live with this problem, or will it cause more problems? Why does the motor settle down after pumping the gas pedal for about a minute? I've had the starter coil replaced recently, as I was told it can get fried from too much mis-firing.
View 8 Replies
I got a heat shield that just will not stop causing me grief. When I installed the headers and pipes I had a heat shield that was too close to the passenger side pipes. I bent it down some to clear the pipe and got rid of a nasty metallic sound I had on the throttle and making left hand turns. Well that little sound returned last week and I crawled under and looked and sure enough the heat shield was touching again.
Who knows why maybe a bit a spring sag. So yesterday I bent it down a little more. Today I start getting a nasty clunk on dips and especially when on a bump why turning. I crawl under there too look and find the same heat shield now has a huge gouge on the under side of it where the leaf spring near the rear bushing is smacking it. I'm sure Ford put it there for a good reason so hate to remove it.
First pic of the hacked up bend job I put on it.
Second pic of the gouge in the bottom of it where it's hitting.
View 8 Replies
This just started 2 weeks ago and has progressively gotten worse. I can take off fine, but when i ease off the throttle to level out my speed (it can be at 30mpg or 70mph it doesn't matter) I get a shimmy in the engine. If i give it gas or let totally off the throttle it goes away.
I've even heard some clanking a few times. Almost feels like a car with a broke engine mount...other than the fact it only does it when leveling out.
I had a local shop just check the basics underneath, axles, mounts etc and they said it looked fine.
No engine light so I don't feel its a sensor. Kinda of makes me think the link between the electric motor and the gas motor is sending mixed signals.
View 3 Replies
When I start my 1999 1.8 petrol passat it needs some throttle to start, low idle speed, misfires, drop in idle, so boot the throtle full - still no pick up and sits on 1000 rpm busy backfiring away! It started after fitting a new windscreen wiper motor, battery was disconnected but went back ok, all other electrics work and no warning on the dash. Didn't touch anything in the engine bay nor were there any issues before I changed the wiper motor.
View 12 Replies
For the most part, I'm pretty happy with my 2010 Santa Fe SE (V6 AWD Automatic).
When I'm coming up to a yield sign, or otherwise slowing down to say 5-10 miles an hour but not a complete stop, and then when I start to try to go again, there is a hesitation and then the vehicle kind of jerks as it starts. It's like it takes a half second to a second for the throttle to respond, and by then it revs higher than I expect. I don't know if it's the throttle delay or a delay downshifting before it starts, or a combination of the two.
I've also noticed that a half second or so delay when just sitting in park and quickly pressing the throttle and releasing. I can press the pedal to about 50% and release it before the RPMs respond at all. Then it'll rev up and back down as you'd expect, just not WHEN you'd expect.
View 6 Replies
