Ford Excursion :: Rubber Seal Near Axle Joint?
May 28, 2013
I unstuck my front axles yesterday and while under the car spinning the front axles freely and enjoying my easy fix, I noticed a rubber seal (a thick squared edge round rubber seal) sitting loose and spinning freely. Its next to the axle joint, right before it disappears into the housing.
I'm guessing this is a dust seal of some kind. There is no fluid leaking out...
I'm wondering if I can just press fit this thing back into place or do I have to take the whole front wheel assembly (hub, bearing, axle, etc) to get the seal back into place.
I'm wondering if it broke off from a larger seal or if this is the whole thing? You can see how the seal isn't sitting quite straight. It actually just spins around.
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Picture if you will...Removed tire, caliper and rotor. Removed hub, and knuckle containing the stub shaft/spindle with it's yoke for the U joint. You are now looking at the end of the axle tube, with the axle shaft in it, one end connected to the differential carrier, the other end has the yoke for the U joint on it. Just inboard of the yoke, is a seal. Apparently it's called a "dust seal" is there a bearing behind this, or is the first bearing all the way in at the differential? When I was doing my brakes, I noticed the passenger side u-joint is shot, and the axle wiggles around in the dust seal. Figured I'd replace the seal while I was doing the U joint. Also, how do I get the axle shaft out? Just pull, or do I have to remove a C clip from the inboard end? What is the right National part number for the seal? I have a 6/2000 Excursion.
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Did ball joints this weekend and now have little axle fluid leaking out passenger side. was going to change axle fluid when i saw this so continued and when pulled the fill plug i would say 8oz or more came draining out. Did I mess up the seal inside the tube?
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I noticed on my 03 excursion on both sides of the front axle there is a circle plastic o ring behind the u joint that is lose? Nothing is leaking and no signs of leak marks ever. Kind of looks lik a spacer ring of some sort because its at least 1/8th inch thick plastic. Also some time ago I posted about a whistling noise but never got a answer but its only there when im in 4wd there is a whistling noise from my right side and my locking hub when I turn it the hub seems lose and has a crunchy feeling to it. I just bought it a few weeks ago and now I am running into a whistling noise and noticed theres a piece of plastic that looks like a spacer....
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I have an 04 Limited, 6.0 PSD, 4x4 which I need to replace the front inner axle seals, the right side is leaking out the shaft. I have watched a couple of YouTube videos on how it is done but would like to get some first hand knowledge and recommendations.
First, how important is it to check the backlash before beginning the removal of the gear assembly? Do I need to remove the pinion gear as well or just the gear assembly?
How difficult is it to get everything back on place once the seals are replaced? I have not done this type of repair before and am concerned I might miss something.
I am planning to replace all the ball joints at this time also, this was the primary reason for this maintenance in the first place.
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2005 4wd excursion. I have a leaking rear seal on passenger side.
I have the hub assembly off. I'm down to the spindle. My old seal came out in pieces. There's either a piece of the old seal or another seal on the back of the spindle.
Are there two seals? This what looks like a seal still on the spindle against the plate on the back...
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I have noticed a few drips coming from the rear axle input shaft where the drive shaft connects. It has only done it once and there is no residue on the trailer hitch so I know it didn't dump everything on the road. If change this seal, how difficult is it and do you have any information which might make it easier.
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While diagnosing an issue with my ebrakes I found the drivers rear axle seal was leaking coating the ebrakes in gear oil, replaced the seal. Decided to pull the differential fill plug and check to make sure it was full - drained a good bit out pulling the hub to replace the seal. To my horror this is what I find when I pull the plug. First photo is as it came out on the magnet - second is after a clean up. What is it? I am almost afraid to drop the cover....
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Do I need a special tool to put the outer axle seal on a 2003 excursion? I could make one if I new how far down it needs to be. I'm replacing the needle bearings in the back of the hubs and it looks like the last seals were not on far enough and the hub tore them up....
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So now that it is becoming colder out (40's in the morning 50's in afternoon) I have been experiencing signs that an inner joint on one of my axles is going bad. When driving while the vehicle is still cold, and even when it is just warmed up, I have bad vibrations while accelerating. I've ruled out other things and even had the car in the air and had it checked out at a stealership but of course they couldn't reproduce any of the vibrations. It was warm out the day of the appointment.
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Have a 95 aero E4wd. Have replace driver side cv axle and drove about 8 miles then the outer joint broke. Had mech change cv axle and drove about 2 miles and the inside broke.. Same mech replace it and drove 3 mile and heard like rubber on metal like a flat tire. The cv axle did not break and won't turn when in gear. Back to shop with aero. Lifted on lift and jacked up front and rear. Turned the driver side and the passenger turned with it also it turned easy. Started it up and placed in gear, all were rotation except driver side , it was hung up. What should be fixed on diff?
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OK I need to replace just the boot, joint is fine. I have everything disassembled but cannot get the cv joint off the end of the axle. What am I missing here? All other CV Joints just come off with a few whacks of a hammer. Is there something special on these I'm missing?
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Looking for info on changing out my left front cv joint axle.My boot is busted on the outter axle but iam going to change out the hold axle then my inner and outter are done the same time.Is there any body that attempted this on there own or a good thread that explains the steps to take on this job.My ride is a 2004 camry auto with the four bagger.
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I have a '01 F250 with a frozen u-joint in the driver side front axle. My question is can I put it together without the axle and drive it?
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The door seal between the driver's side front and rear doors on my car is coming loose -- the rubber piece that seals out wind/water/noise?/etc. between where the driver's side front door closes and meets the rear door by the B-pillar. I looked at the way it's designed and meant to be applied and was curious if using gorilla glue or some variant of high strength adhesive would do the trick? It seems to be drying up where the rubber meets the sheet metal.
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Just noticed today that the rubber seal around the window, a small part of the rubber seal, has peeled.
Talked to the dealer and initially they said that it could have been the tint shop's fault because they may have been their fault.
Called the tint shop and they explained their process and after doing little research of my own and watching youtube videos, it is unlikely that the tint shop could have done this.
Called dealer again and explained to them that i talked to the tint shop and after hearing their process and after researching their process, it may not have been the tint shop but just a small mistake on hyundai/dealer part. they said the best they could do is take a look at the car, but not guaranteed they will fix it.
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Just to clarify, I've got a UK spec B5 wagon, manual, 1.8T (AEB, I believe) and it's a 2000. Last night when I was driving home, either my CV joint or axle on the driver (right) side blew out. Needless to say, I'm going to replace my axles or just the outer joints, but I've been shopping around and I'll find parts that will fit an A4 with a 5 speed and AEB but not a Passat, or parts that fit strictly AUG or ATW engine codes. How would I go about finding which axle will actually fit my car?
Here's a video so you can hear the noise : [URL] .....
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I just bought a 2003 Hyundai Elantra GLS, yesterday. 167k. Some faded paint on top areas, dead battery & in need of driver's front CV joint axle i believe, clicks when going around corners. Starts without hesitation, no smoke, no ticking, very clean and has only had 1 owner.
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I noticed pool of oil yesterday morning, felt engine oil has leaked. Did oil change as it was due, the mechanic said the leak doesn't seem big enough, still overnight there was again lot of oil leaked, I kept a pan below to capture it. Checked it at auto shop near me and they said it is transmission fluid leak and probably due to driver side axle seal leak. I am going to take it again tomorrow to fix. How much do you think it will cost to fix if this is right diagnosis? This is 2005 4 cyl Ford escape with 150k on it. As per them if it is axle leak it will probably more of labor (2 hrs) than seal price.
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How do you replace the rear axle seal in a 1995 F150?
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This is a photo of my '79 F250 4x4 rear axle (Dana 60 full floater) this seal will leak in a few miles ..what I need is the part number of a replacement seal made like the one in the lower photo ..it seems that Ford no longer has this seal.
Notice the increased distance from the bearing to the sealing lip in this photo ..the sealing lip on the new seal in the upper photo lies almost on the bearing, this one just barely engages the seal surface on the axle stub. I can machine the bearing pocket deeper to cause the seal to move farther onto the sealing surface, but that would also cause the bearings to be closer together, and may cause problems there.
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