Ford Excursion :: Right Rear Lock Sluggish - Solenoid?
Sep 2, 2016
The lock in my right rear door has been temperamental for some time. I had always assumed I just needed a new solenoid, but I wonder if there's something else to this, like a broken clip or something that needs lubrication. All of the other locks work fine.
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About a year ago I put in a new lock motor and it worked fine for a while but has stopped working. Is it the lock motor or something else? It unlocks but won't lock. There is not latch indicator on the upper hatch so it stayed unlocked without me knowing it.
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Does the rear hatch come from the factory with a different key than the ignition? My key will not open the rear hatch lock, it doesn't even go in the whole way.
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I discovered recently that the rear doors no longer lock. Scared the crap out of me when I open them to load something not realizing I hadn't unlocked the truck, and the alarm went off. I haven't tried to open the thing up yet to see what may be broken or loose.
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I've noticed that when I lock the truck, the rear hatch stays locked most of the time. I have to manually lock it with the key if I want my truck to be secure. When it does work, it doesn't sound weak. When it doesn't, it's silent. Where should I start looking?
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I just bought a 2000 ford excursion 7.3. None of the power door locks currently work but the one I am really consented about is the back window that folds up and down. I need to find out how to fix this back window because I can't lock it with the key like the others.
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So yesterday I tried to tackle this project. I soaked the latched in penetrating oil got it all loosened up were I could actually lock it with the key. So tried it with the key fob and no lock or unlock. So I pulled the actuator out and did the "tin foil" trick. Still wouldn't work. Didn't push the lock far enough to Lock the glass. However, it did move the latch. So I went down and purchased a NEW one from auto parts store stuck it in and whip-bang-boom it don't work either. As it don't push the lock far enough to lock the glass.
Vehicle 2000 X 4x4 w/ v10 Yes lock moves freely with little effort
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It's not the lock, it's the linkage. The actuator has been replaced and still can't lock/unlock it. Using the key is really tough to turn, but it will with enough force applied. Last summer I sprayed it with lube and it worked for a while, now we're back to square one. It's really clean, just acts like something is bent/worn.
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Since I bought the Ex last December the rear lock worked sometimes. The key cylinder wouldn't turn, but the actuator would work from time to time.
So since it is hunting season and I want to lock up the Ex when I am in the field I dug into it tonight.
I want to know how do I remove the actuator from the handle/lock mechanism. It looks like it just snaps on. I pulled the actuator back a touch and the arm feel off that drives the lock mechanism.
So after pulling the handle and trim piece, removing the lock cylinder and hosing it in PB blaster and brake kleen and more PB blaster I now have a lock cylinder that turns freely.
After turning my attention the lock mechanism and flooding it with PB blaster, I now can lock the Ex. That mechanism is not a smooth item! So do I need to remove the complete lock mechanism assembly to remove the actuator? Can I buy an actuator with a metal arm?
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The drivers side power door lock is starting to go out. The lock is very sluggish and sometime does not activate. Two months ago I sprayed the mechanism with some lite oil, that worked for a little while. I could not see the power relay on the power lock there is not much room to see inside the door.
1992 4.0L Aerostar...
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So after a lot of work, I got the door actuator fixed. Instantly after, the window was sluggish to go down but it went all the way down, then it was sluggish to go up. Striked me as odd. Maybe I got a wire in the way? Happened twice more and then it wouldn't go down past an inch (from the top) and still will barely move. What could have happened or how I fix this? It is the driver's window and I live in a gated apartment complex
I should probably note that I had to unscrew that beam on the very left of the door (close to the actual door lock) and it wouldn't go back after 20 minutes of haggling with it so I took a small hammer and hit the bottom part of it so it would be aligned with the hole for the bolt. If this caused the problem, how much of a nightmare is it to fix it...?
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I purchased a 2001 Limited V10 about 18 months ago with 95k on it. We are now at 110k and have done quite a lot of work to it. Recently it has become noticeable less responsive (still driveable, just seems sluggish).
-Replaced all four brake calipers (originally thought a dragging rear caliper was causing sluggish feeling)
-Replaces exhaust at point after cat as it was rusted
-Replaced all spark plugs at 98k and also one COP at that point as it was misfiring.
-All fluids were changed right around 90k.
I'm at a loss as to what could be causing this as I really thought it was my bad brake calipers...
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04 excursion 6.0 auto. New batteries a month ago. New alternator (New Bosch) 6 months ago. Charging system shows 12-13 volts on scan gauge with engine off, 14 with engine running. Drops to 10 or 11 while actually engaging starter.
Every once in a while, often when the engine is hot (in fact I can't ever remember this happening when it's cold) the solenoid clicks like it would when the battery is dead. So far, it does this while it's actually engaging the starter, so I hear the solenoid clicking under the hood while I hear the whir of the starter under the floor board.
Never had this happen before. Not sure what part is trying to tell me it's on its way out? Heat soaked starters are harder to start, or less powerful, or something, right?
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My passenger rear lock is no longer lock/unlocking via power. I had an issue with the driver front, but it was replaced under warranty. Since it's a 2007, it's certainly no longer under warranty.
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I instead rebuilt the factory trac-lock...well I need more lock....
In the slow crawling I do to get in and out of the camping/hunting/fishing spot with the wife and kids the trac lock just does not lock up well enough.
It I get on it and get it spinning then it will lock up enough but then I fear parts will break, I prefer to slow crawl.
I had my Bronco locked up with Detroit's but I cant do that here it is my DD
So I am back looking at lockable diffs.
I have used ARB and they work well but I came across this Eaton E-Locker. I only saw it for the rear though.
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Well just replaced most everything in the front axle. Hubs, vacuum seal, dust seal, inner seals and calipers. I also cleaned the autolock hubs. Fist time I used them they worked. I tried again today and no 4wd. I checked the vacuum lines and they are all intact. Not sure what to do next.
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All of my door locks work fine with the key fob or from the master driver side controls. One door lock, the front passenger, will unlock with the rocker switch on that door but will not lock with that switch.
I replaced the rocker switch on that door and I still have the same problem. To me this seems to indicate a problem with the lock wire from the rocker switch to the door actuator since otherwise the actuator works. I believe that is a black/pink wire.
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So was replacing the actuator on a few of the doors today. I broke the clip on the passenger side rear door that attaches the exterior door handle to the locking mechanism. It's the clip that sandwiches the rod threads in place. I discovered the front and the rear doors are different in these clips.
What is the part # or diagram with description to find this part? I've found the replacement for the front door, but it doesn't fit the rear. Here is a pic of the front door one.
Dorman Products - 703-240
The difference in the part that connects the the locking mechanism. On the front its a round plug with tabs on it. For the rear it is rectangular and slides in and then rotate 90 degrees to lock in place. Cant for the life of me locate a replacement. Been researching for hours without success.
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They work and no problems latching up. But they "lock" up real quick. Kids almost always get locked to the seat.
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On my previous vehicle (2005 Avalanche), when I unlocked the doors, the tail lights and parking lights flashed to let me know that the signal was received and the doors were unlocked. I noticed that the Excursion doesn't do that. The lights flash on "lock" but not on "unlock". It's a nice feature to have, especially at night.
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My doors are locking and unlocking while driving down the road.
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