Ford Excursion :: Reverse Sensing System / Intermittent RSS Off Light
Feb 27, 2012
MY 04 Excursion limited has 154k miles on it. Up until about 2 weeks ago the RSS worked great. Then the light on the dash that turns the RSS off when you are backing up a trailer was intermittently on/off then it stayed on the whole time. The switch doesn't lock in one position. Like the clicker is bad. I got a new switch hoping this would fix the problem and Momma could back her school bus up with no problems. Not so. I checked out all the sensors and when you get in front of them individually you can hear them clicking. but the switch is still stuck in off. I disconnected the battery and reset the system and it still doesn't work. I cant find any schematics in my Haynes/Chilton manual for this system. there is no fuse for it in the owners manual.
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So for 90,000 miles my reverse sensing system worked like a dream, now suddenly it shuts itself off intermittently. No codes stored in the system.
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I am considering bringing my 2009 Hyundai Elantra to the dealer to have the speed sensing door lock system enabled! With the system enabled do both the driver and passenger doors unlock when you put the car back in park?
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Just bought an '03 Excursion v10 with ~150,000 miles on it (Saturday morning). About 3/4 of my 1.5 hr drive home, when I hit my first small mountain, and I put my foot into it, the ABS light came on, and the speedo started bouncing around. Same thing on the second hill/mountain.
Then, after driving it on a couple small trips this weekend, and towing my 2500 lb boat home (20 min drive), it behaved fine (no big hills, etc). However, I decided to hookup my backup camera. During the 60 or so minutes that I had it sitting with dome lights on, etc measuring everything up (also trying to figure out how to fit my tool box in the back).
When I tried to start it when I was finished, it would just crank and crank and crank. Every now and then, it would try to catch, but never would. Left it sit for another 10 minutes and it started just fine. However, once it started, the ABS light came on for a little while, then went out.
At first, I thought "oh no... fuel pump". But then I started thinking about the speedo and the ABS light going whacko on the hills. I'm wondering if it's a low voltage issue? I had the alternator checked out today, and it tested fine at 13.9v. However, I've heard that those tests aren't always accurate.
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As I'm driving along, I get the battery light coming for a few minutes then going out. Is this a sign my alternator is on the fritz?
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Having this issue for a while. Finally have time off work to dig into it some more. 00 ex, v10. Intermittently flashes o/D light and shifts hard. I replaced 2 out of the three speed sensors. One at the output and the other on the axle. Only active code is the p0720 output shaft speed sensor circuit. Last weekend removed and inspected harness, did not electrically measure it tho. My question is: intermittent problem? I drove it today to see if it was still doing it and it drove like a dream! Haven't had the battery disconnected or anything, just sometimes it does it and other times it a smooth ride.
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2007 ls 460 l - Warning light on dash: Check VSC system. Happens intermittently. When it is on, the cruise control does not work and the break-hold is off.
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I've noticed an intermittent clunk which occurs when engaging the hydraulics brakes during reverse maneuvers. It happens with anything from very light to very heavy brake force and typically will happen before driving very far (backing out of driveway, out of parking spot, etc) but does not happen after driving (backing INTO driveway or parking spot). This has been occurring for a while now with no other symptoms (other than some shudder during take off which I attribute to a sloppy transmission bushing).
Front brakes were in great shape when I r&r them a while back to turn the rotors, didn't pull the rears apart but they look good, and I don't have any brake vibrations or issues when moving forward. I can't rule out a driveline clunk or suspension clunk either but the u-joints don't have any slop in them and no squirrely handling issues either.
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My '09 Platinum has rain-sensing wipers, and I do not like them at all. They are always going to high-speed when it's not raining that hard or they don't do anything at all when there's a mist that needs cleaned off.
The wiper stick has HIGH, LOW, and various INTERMITTENT settings. Any of the INTERMITTENT settings are AUTO for me. I'm constantly messing with it to get the wipers to act correctly. I just want to turn them off. How can it be done?
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I bought my X 2 weeks ago on a Saturday. It was dead when I picked it up, due to sitting. No big deal. I live an hour from where I bought it. Drove it sunday and monday no problem. Tuesday, I fired it up, drove to work. It sat about 11 hours, I came out and it was dead. I jumped it. Drove home and put it on a charger overnight. Fired it up wednesday morning and drove to work. Just for good measure I did a charging system check. It passes with flying colors. Park it and come out 11 hours later. Dead. I jumped it and pulled it inside and threw a new battery in it. Should be good to go...
I drove it, and had no problems till sunday night. It sat about 16 hours and was again dead. I put my charger on it overnight again. Drove to work monday morning and grabbed my inductive amp clamp. I use that for larger draws so I know I won't pop the fuse in my meter.
I pop the hood, and lock the doors. Put the meter on it and its showing 9amp draw. Normal till the computers fall asleep and such. It dropped down to 4.8 amps and didnt' drop. I checked it an hour later and it was still at 4.8. So I left it sit and when I'd walk by I'd check it. Once in a while it was reading 0.0. The others 4.8. When I went out to leave for the day it was at 0.0, and the truck started just fine.
It's been a week now with no problems, and the only thing I have done is lube all the latches and hinges. BUT... last night I was working in the garage and once in a while I could hear what sounded like a motor running for a second or 2 in the clamshell trunk lid. I know it doesn't currently lock, but I didn't think it could or would continue to attempt it.
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Check Charging System message, battery-shaped idiot light, and audible beep has happened a few times over the past month or so. Yesterday it happened while my wife was driving so I had to bring it to the dealer, not to mention I drove it last night and there was constant beeping for about a minute which was pretty annoying.
But first I had the battery checked, which turned out to be OK. Also we got a new alternator 5 months ago, installed by the dealer.
Today they said they "updated the computer" whatever that means, and otherwise couldn't find anything wrong. $99.85 plus tax.
Needless to say I'm not confident that "updating the computer" has fixed it. What are the odds we get the warning again in a couple of weeks? Short of disconnecting the sensor, is there anything that can be done?
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I'm experiencing intermittent steering loss only when I'm turning, left or right, on my 2004 Excursion. I was told it could be the outboard u-joints, so I've replaced them along with the ball joints. Still have the problem. For grins, in park I tried turning the steering wheel left and right, no issues. But when I applied the brake and tried turning the steering wheel, it felt like I had no power steering. Not every time.
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My 2000 v10 w/194K has developed an intermittent shake when braking. Severity from mild to severe. Had the problem earlier, suspected the rotors - replaced front rotors and pads with EB slotted rotors and Yellow Stuff pads. It was fine for a couple of months, now its back. Replaced the slide pins last night (they were in good shape, replaced anyway). Where to look next?
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Original owner of a 2005 Excursion 6.8l v10, 155k miles. About a month ago 10-15 minutes or so into my ride to work on a 50-60 degree morning the check gauges light comes on, noticed the temp gauge pegged to H followed by the check engine light, then limp mode. Turned on front & rear heaters and cold air was blowing. Pulled over, checked under the hood, coolant wasn't boiling, tank was 1/2 full and cold air was blowing thru radiator. 1st thought was T'Stat. So I removed T'Stat added some antifreeze & continued to work w/o a t'stat. Then had heat thru radiator & heat in front & rear heaters. Engine ran cool with no overheat issue.
Bought aftermarker T'Stat (slant) put that in and everything back to normal. About a month later same problem happens at about the same point in my trip to work, temp pegs, no heat from heater and goes into limp mode. Shut the truck off release pressure from radiator and coolant level goes down, seems to feed back into engine. Start the truck up temp goes back to normal and everything is fine for the rest of the day with several starts/stops. Bought FORD OEM T'Stat & replaced. Next morning same problem. So i think maybe there's an air pocket somewhere, add more coolant & fill to proper level when cold. next morning from cold start same problem. Coolant is clean, just changed oil and no coolant in oil. Problem only happens from a cold startup in the morning.
I'm at a loss. I'm thinking of drilling a small bypass hole in the T'Stat.
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I was driving yesterday and had no heat, tried rotating the dial several times, changed the vent setting and such and no heat front or rear. Then all of a sudden while waiting for a train to pass, the heat started working in the front and rear.
This morning I stated her up and had heat, but by the time I got to work (30 minutes) it was barely warm. Due to heated seats! It's 26 degrees out and I'm at work, so it'll be this evening before I get a chance to look at it.
2000 limited v10 4x4 in case it didn't show up.
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The Ex has started intermittent (less intermittent now) shaking while driving down the road. Not very noticeable at low speeds 20 or less. Idles smooth. Took it in and had tires checked, balanced, rotated, and aligned.
No difference. It was so bad my wife got pulled over by a police officer on the freeway here. He was extremely nice, looked under the car and suggested as possibilities. The locking Hubs on the front (4x4), U-Joints, Axle issue, Stuck in 4 wheel drive, or bad power steering pump.
Once she picked me up and we drove home from our dinner, I got pulled over. When it is in its violent shaking mode, it pulls to the right. when the shaking subsides (for an unknown reason) the pull to the right is gone. I do not notice anything that causes it to start or stop the shaking.
2001 Diesel 4x4, 4" Exhaust, Injen Cold Air Intake
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The keyless entry for my Freestar has just started acting up out of the blue. It will occasionally work after repeated button pushing on the fob.
It does this for both fobs
It does this for all buttons on the fobs
I have tried changing the fob batteries
The door buttons inside the car work just fine
What can cause intermittent functionality of the keyless entry system? Is there a box under the dash I can unplug/replug or a fuse I can change?
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I have a 2010 F250 Super Duty with 18" factory wheels. I started having intermittent Tire Pressure Monitor Faults. My research lead me to believe that the seven year old sensors were probably running out of battery life. So... When I had new tires installed I also had new FoMoCo sensors installed and I purchased a FoMoCo tool (TPMS 19) to train the new sensors. My problem is that I cannot get the sensor training process to work. When I put the truck into the train mode and try to retrain the LF tire, nothing happens and eventfully the horn beeps twice and the dash reads that the training failed. Where is the receiver that the sensors communicate with? Could it be bad?
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My EX died on me twice today when I put it in reverse. Once at the doctors office and once in my driveway when I got home. Is there any sort of interlock that would cause it to die when I put it in reverse. I replaced the idle control servo not long ago so I am hopeing it is not that although with the crap parts coming from China it is not impossible.
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Finished my flush, but now it won't shift to reverse unless i shift all the way to drive first. I thought it might be the hard shifting lever(i think something is up with the linkage), so i shifted to neutral, then reverse, but no success. It's still about 1/4-1/2" overfilled, I jsut ran to the hardware store and it's consistently still not shifting to reverse unless I take it all the way to drive first.
Really hoping I didn't break something in the process... I did do the shifting through the gears while it was flushing out the old coolant, could the valve be stuck due to that?
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I bought a DVD version of the shop manual several years back. Apparently they expire? Mine will start, but it won't open anything. It says it is expired, and to discard the disk.
Anyway, what color the (+) reverse light wire is under the dash?
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