Ford Excursion :: Replacement Of Rubber Bump Stops?
Dec 15, 2010
While driving the other day I heard a loud bang under the ex. went back and found the rubber bump stop on the drivers side had rotted and fell off. After inspecting the passenger side it looks like it is about to fall off . I dont mind spending money to keep my equip in proper running order but I dont want to be taken advantage of doing it!
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Had the ex up on a lift today as I plan on swapping out the shocks and noticed that the front bump stops are completely gone.
Could this be contributing to the harsh bumpy jarring ride I have?
I don't quite understand what they do as they just appear to be bolted to the frame and the next piece of metal they can hit seems far away from where they are positioned?
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My Bump Stops have completely dry rotted and fell off the truck. I have an 08 with a 2 inch leveling kit, I already did all the body bushings, as they disintegrated as well. Should I bother replacing them? I highly doubt that I would ever bottom out that bad that I would need them?
If I should replace them, then where did u guy's get them and should I go with the Neoprene like I did with the body bushings?
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On my 01' the bottoms of the bump stops are completely gone. Rusted out to the point to where the rubber stop on the front lower control arm (if the truck bottomed-out) would go right thought it. The rubber stops are fine.
This pic was taken from below the control arm looking up. You see the rubber bumper and just above it is the stop (some what triangular shaped). the bottom is rotted away... Are these replaceable or repairable? They seem like they are welded to the frame.
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Removing the old cracked rubber brake line hoses on my daughters 2003 Ford Escape. Front left no problem. Old off, new on in 5 minutes. All the other won't come free. Can break nut loose, but just spins & spins. What is going on here? Did search and should be very easy.
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I unstuck my front axles yesterday and while under the car spinning the front axles freely and enjoying my easy fix, I noticed a rubber seal (a thick squared edge round rubber seal) sitting loose and spinning freely. Its next to the axle joint, right before it disappears into the housing.
I'm guessing this is a dust seal of some kind. There is no fluid leaking out...
I'm wondering if I can just press fit this thing back into place or do I have to take the whole front wheel assembly (hub, bearing, axle, etc) to get the seal back into place.
I'm wondering if it broke off from a larger seal or if this is the whole thing? You can see how the seal isn't sitting quite straight. It actually just spins around.
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So I had been smelling an electrical/rubber burning smell on the Ex about a month ago. After a week or so I popped the hood and poked around. This is what I found!
Now I had a no start in May. The shop that I had it towed to checked the wiring harness, replaced the cam sensor, scratched the truck up and ran through 2 tanks of fuel.
I repaired the harness and all is good. What the 3 wires run/go to.
One was solid Gray with a white stripe.
One was solid Black with a yellow stripe.
One was Tan with a green strip.
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How to fix rear air suspension from dropping down to bump stops ...if I reset it every night it is fine but if not it will be down on bump stops by morning.
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Did everyone trim their bumpstops on the front shocks with lowered springs? If not , any issues with bottoming out?
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I seen a thread on here about putting rubber tubing in your door seals to stop drafts. What size tubing is used?
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This may be my only chance to do a step-by-step ...
Tools Required : Fingers (preferably attached to hands)
Step One : Check diver side floorboard for cleanliness (people are going to see it in the pics)
Don't worry about passenger side. There will be no pics of it.
Step Two (fingers required for steps two through seven and ten) : Vacuum driver floorboard since there will be pictures made of it.
Step Three : Remove old, worn out brake pedal cover.
Step Four : Remove aftermarket brake pedal cover from ridiculously oversized Amazon box that's still in the passenger side floorboard.
Step Five : Take a picture of the old and new covers together to make fun of the old one.
Step Six : Install new brake pedal cover.
Step Seven : Remove new brake pedal cover and re-install right side up..
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My left rear suspension will leak down to bump stops unless I turn off auto suspension leveler. I can set suspension at high level turn off and it will stay that way i had set that way for 2 weeks and no leak but if I turn on leveler it may stay or it may leak down usually just left side somebody had said that my air bags were leaking so I tested it out all last month and find it hard to believe the bags are leaking if it will stay inflated a week or 2.
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It was raining today and when I went to get in my X i notice water dripping in on the floor in my rubber mats. it was down by the ebrake pedal under the dash. is this a windshield seal problem?
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Continuing to find little easter eggs with my new to me 01 v10 excursion.
This issue is a bad vibration that feels like it's coming from the middle of the truck. It starts when I hit a bump and usually goes away when I hit another, but not always. At first I thought it was the road, then the transmission, but now with it starting when I hit a bump, I'm thinking a U-Joint on the driveshaft.
I considered the front axle u-joints but it doesn't matter which wheel I hit the bump with, be it a pot hole or man hole cover or seam in the road.
I'm not sure where to start. I'm doing the trans flush tomorrow and dropping the transfer case to see where that's leaking, so I'll be under there to try and figure it out.
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I had a 7" icon installed with reservoir shocks installed. Rides pretty good driving unless I hit a dip or bump. When either of those are steep down or up I have a very hard hit. Could the shocks not have enough travel? I am at a loss to explain except it is a pretty hard contact. It looks like the shocks have about 3-4" of shaft exposed on the shock. Unfortunately I do not think I can post pictures yet.
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Just experienced the teeth jarring "thud" from going over a speed bump. That was bad. I want to fix the issue right now for cheap. I plan on doing the full blown V/B mod swap out later, but don't want to buy new rubber when my current is nearly new. Dealership wanted ALOT of money for replacement leafs. This is just a temporary temporary measure to stop the slamming.
Front
Option 1: 2" Lift Shackles
Option 2: 3" Mini-Pack Leveling Kit
Rear
Option 1: OEM F-350 4" blocks
Option 2: Generic 4-5 Lift blocks
I really like the shackles for their price. Flip side though, I feel the mini-pack would firm up the ride a tad. My old F-250 rode like a truck, and the X just doesn't.
Are the factory front shocks long enough to support 2" of extension without breaking? I really didn't want to mess with the rear suspension, but she sits pretty level right now and I'm not a fan of the Bulldog look.
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I have noticed that the rubber window moldings around both front doors is deteriorating. Both are torn and falling apart. There is no wind noise yet but they need to be replaced.
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The right rear door on my X is rattling when I hit a bump. The door is not closing tight enough. I can reproduce the noise by just pushing on the door. I don't see any adjustments that I can make.
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I bought my 2005 Turbo diesel awhile back, and I was having an intermittent problem with the brakes. If I have to suddenly stop, and hit the brakes, it feels like I didnt hit them at all. Sure, I stop, but only after 3-4 seconds of OH CRAP IM GOING TO HIT SOMEONE.
So I just had my truck in the shop, and they replaced my front rotors, turned back back rotors, and replaced all of the pads.
So, I figured that should fix the issue. Not so.
Tonight my daughter was in a car accident, and I was hurrying my way to her, and the light in front of me flipped yellow/red pretty quick. So I hit the brakes, and thought I was going to go right through the intersection..
When I hit the damned brakes, I need to freaking stop. Not keep moving and then slow down gradually. Scared the crap out of me multiple times now. One time I'm not going to be so lucky.
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I have a 2002 7.3 ltd X with the 4r100 transmission. The trans shifts fine until it get over 160 deg (glow shift gauge in test port) Then the OD stops working and get no engine braking until I turn off the OD. when od is turned off, appears to shift OK. When the trans temp gets below 150, I get the OD back. The OD light did flash on 2 occasions but no code while engine on and light flashing but OD was working at the time. after shutting off engine and restarting light stopped. New fluid and filter, torque convert was flushed also and X has larger 6.0 trans cooler. Tran did get hot once while towing 4 ton trailer 240 f, thus bigger cooler. what would cause the OD to go out when above 160 f but come back when cool?
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Just purchased a 2000 V10 Limited with 117000 miles on it. Absolutely love it....just have a noise that is bugging the crap out of me. My husband doesn't think it is a big deal, but I would love to find out what it is without dropping 60 bucks at the dealer.
Whenever I turn a corner that is a tad bumpy it makes a bump type sound. It usually happens only when one side is going over the bump. It is pretty loud. IT will happen also when I am going down my dirt road without turning but when one tire goes over a bump the truck kind of shifts from side to side and the sound starts.
We have thought it could be the shocks or maybe the springs making that kind of sound. My husband is clueless and he knows alot about vehicles. I just hope my description wasn't too vague.
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