Ford Excursion :: Removing Wires From Under Hood Fuse / Relay Box
May 20, 2015
Well, it's starting to look like I may have to build my underhood harness from bits of multiple harnesses. I found a 2000 Excursion harness, but the engine plugs and wires were hacked off during engine removal.
After in-depth study of wire diagrams, it looks like I can just get a pickup harness and combine it with the aforementioned damaged Excursion harness to get what I need- and do it for about 50 bucks.
I also notice that there are a few Ebay sellers who just sell the fuse/relay box with the wiring harness hacked off of it. So my question is- how do you remove the wires (including the terminal ends) from the fuse/relay box? I've fiddled around with my burned up parts and can't seem to figure it out.
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What do these 4 random dead ended wires under the hood go to.
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My park lamp circuit is dead. I have tested with a multi-meter and there IS power at the fuse. However, no power at the plug. I have pulled the bumper and found the plug for both the rear taillights (the park lamp circuit WORKS in the taillights) and the trailer wires. Confirmed it is dead there as well.
Both bundles go into the frame rail at the fuel tank, but I not sure which is which where it comes out at the firewall. A web search did not reveal a diagram and the Ford repair CD I have does not list Excursion diagrams.
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I have a 2005 6.0 and a FICM tuner from PHP. I need to remove the FICM relay so I don't fry injector 1 (I think that what it is). Anyway, I've done a lot of reading and can't seem to figure out which relay it is. The instructions say the relay closest to the passenger front, but also say almost always grey. So, The grey relay is passenger toward firewall. The directions also say that the injectors will not buzz if removed. I took each out and still had injector buzz. Tried again tonight, truck is hot, just been driven. I pulled the grey relay and turned key to on. Buzzed for just a second then stopped but did the same for the other relay and same when put back in.
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Just noticed I have no more horn... I had car alarm issues for a while and the alarm would sound all day in the parking garage while I was at work (was keeping the car unlocked at home...) Finally fixed the hood pin.
Going back to the horn, the horn fuse was burned in the hood relay box, and when I replaced it and tried the horn again, it burned again... Where to start? Do I go for new relays, new horns, new wiring or all of the above...
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I have a 2000 LS, V6, that won't start, had the battery and alternator checked and are fine, last week i notice when I turn the switch to start up there was a 1 or 2 second delay then it would start, the other day the wife called me at work to tell she she was out and it wouldn't start as I was talikng to her she tried it and it started right up, didn't do it again until this morning, check the fuses and all were ok, it started 2 times then about 30 minutes, nothing, and i mean nothing, the security on the dash doesn't indicate a problem, I turn the switch everything lights ups as it should, everything works(radio...etc.) go to start and nothing but click, sounds like it comes from the fuse/relay box under the hood, starter maybe? relay?
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I have a 03 for excursion and I am pretty sure i blew the relay for the fog lights today but looked in the glove box and everywhere for the owners manual and cannot find it anywhere in site... Looking for a diagram or can take a picture of where the fog light relay is and post it on here and which fuse or relay it is ?
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- Fuse Box - Part # 3C7T-14A067-DC Engineering Number on white label.
- Ford Dealer Part # 3C7Z-14A068-DB
I have a 2004 Ford Excursion 6.8L 4x4 that has a bad fuel pump relay. I am looking for a used replacement fuse panel.
Of all these number and letters which of them tells me the real part number? Does the last two letters mean anything "DC" or "DB"?
So I don't get one for a diesel, what is the prefix for the diesel? I am assuming the 3C7T is gas and the year model?
Also, will this fuse panel interchange with a F250/F350 6.8L or do I need to stick with a fuse panel from an Excursion?
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I recently got a ranger from my buddy and it keeps blowing the EEC fuse in the engine compartment. We have replaced the EEC relay and the EEC power relay. As soon as you turn the key it is blowing the fuse.
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My friend has a 98 ranger that has a lose connection on fuel relay under the hood, Hit a bad bump truck dies, Pop hood wiggle wire and your good till next bump. This got real old real quick. How this connection is made, Is it soldered?
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I have a 98 f150 Lariat 4wd Automatic with a 2000 4.6. When i turn the key the only thing that happens is i hear a relay in the fusebox in the dash clicking. I can cross the starter relay on the firewall with a screwdriver and itll start right up. Heres what ive done troubleshooting wise.
1. Checked battery terminals. Fine, it will start with jumping the relay so it seems good with that regard.
2. Tested the relay per the manual. Good.
3.Ohms Tested the white ignition switch box under the dash per manual. Good
4. Voltage tested the Trans Range Sensor per manual. Good.
5. Checked over all fuses, none blown.
6. No theft lights come on.
I figure since it will start jumping the relay that the battery, starter, and starter solenoid are all good. Only thing i cant seem to find is the Starter Interrupt Relay, or any sign of fusible links on the main battery cables. I am really at a loss here i figured one of the components ive tested would be it.
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I have a 2013 f150 & the fuel pump relay fuse burnt out. I unhooked the battery cable "wasn't thinking" & took the fuse out & replaced it. Now my truck wont get over 3000 rpms & is driving like i got bad fuel or something. & now its throwing codes about my trac & I don't know why. Just from unhooking the battery cable & hooking it back up. What it is??
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I purchased a 94 Ford Explorer 4x4 4.0L w/ Automatic transmission with Overdrive. Great work truck, but I am finding that these had a lot of wiring problems. First thing that messed up with me is the backup lights wouldn't work. Then the dash lights and parking lights stopped working (Still no fuses where bad). Then about 2 weeks later, I was on my way home when It just died like someone had turned the switch off, I pulled off the side of the Interstate, and after checking my fuses/Relays under the hood.
I found that the EEC Fuse (30AMP-BIG Fuse) had blowed, I didn't have one and the truck wasn't off the road good, So I wrapped a small wire around the fuse to see if I could start it and get it out of the road better, It started right up, but soon as I pulled it off the road it died again, and I found that it melted the EEC Relay, I went to the parts store and got a new relay and fuse and put them in, It blows the fuse as soon as I put it in, with the switch off or on. I just need to know what things will cause this so I can check them out one by one, until I find the one that is causing this problem, cause It run great up till this happen.
Only other thing I may need to let you know, Is when I bought it, the key switch would start it, The guy had put a push button starter switch that you push to start it with the key on, I unhooked it, and it started fine with the key for a while then it stopped again, so I had to hook the push button back up and had been using it until it stop running with me.
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Can't find my manual and getting ready to haul camper in an hour...no trailer parking lamp power on truckside plug. No blown fuse but heard there may be a relay.
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Upon trying to start my 2003 f250, it keeps blowing the 15A "Transmission Range Sensor then to Starter Relay Coil" fuse. Initially the truck would still start if i did not use the aftermarket Viper keyless start. however, now it doesn't start at all and keeps blowing fuses. I contacted the guy that installed the alarm thinking it might be something on his end. He walked me through reconnecting the factory starter wires which would isolate the issue if it was something on his end. it's still blowing fuses. battery terminals are good and clean.
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1999 XTL 4.0 auto, was doing fine, replaced Interior light bulb, now wont crank over!!! i suspect the anti theft system... how do i fix or ByPass the security system, i can start the truck by Manually engaging the starter Relay under the hood.
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Is it true that if your drain lines are clogged water will backflow to the relay in the fuse box?
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I am having trouble with my 2001 F-150. Starting yesterday it would not start. At 1st i thought it wa the battery, so i took it off, charged it, put it back in the truck and still no start. There is a clicking noise coming from a relay in the cabin fuse box, disconnected the battery, removed relay to inspect and everything looks good. After plugging it back in, and connecting the battery, the truck still wont start and there is a clicking sound coming from the dash near the radio. Rhis is my work vehicle!!!
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How to disable the 12v DC-DC converter or what fuses I can remove besides the fusible link in the fuse box? I cant even find a writeup on how to remove that fuse...
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I read up in an article I searched that removing the ABS fuse disables the traction, ESC, ABS, all that stuff. Is there a way that I can disengage my traction control and ESC without taking a fuse out if that is even possible?
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Relay-clicking sound coming from under the hood? at low speed in transition from brake to accelerator.
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