Ford Excursion :: Rear Hatch Rubbing Barn Doors?
Jul 10, 2014
The rear hatch on our ex, is starting to dig into the fiberglass of the barn doors. Paint is already gone, just white fiberglass. This wasn't an issue was first, however we have been opening and closing it quite a bit more than we used to. How to resolve this issue?
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I am interested in putting speakers in the barn doors of the Ex.
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I currently have an 05 Limited X and I've also noticed this on other 05 X's as well. The front driver and passenger side doors near the lower end with the cladding doesn't seem to match up with the rear doors. This goes for both driver and passenger front doors. I at first thought maybe it was just on the X I have but this is something I've taken notice of on just about all of the 05 Limited's I've looked at. What I'm referring to with the front doors being popped out a small bit and not matching up or being perfectly aligned with the rear doors?
I've had an 01 Limited and the doors wasn't anywhere near how mis-aligned they seem to be on the 05 Limited's. I haven't checked years between or XLT's. But on almost or pretty much all 05 Limited's I'm noticing this. Some are not as bad as others or as noticeable as others. But for some reason they all seem to pop out a little towards the bottom. When I speak of doors I'm referring to the doors itself, not the cladding/molding sticking out.
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When I open the doors on my touareg, the rear hatch does not unlock. When I try to program it as an option to open the rear hatch when I unlock the doors, it works for awhile. But, it always goes back to not opening. I recall a few months ago a similar question or post about a solution, like reprogramming something else first or at the same time.
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Having problem with the rear door latching?the glass hatch closes ok it is just the barn door that wont latch. Is there a fix or do I have to replace the lock mechanism...
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Does the rear hatch come from the factory with a different key than the ignition? My key will not open the rear hatch lock, it doesn't even go in the whole way.
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So I hooked up to the camper on Friday, threw some gear in the back off the Ex and hit the road. 4 hours and a couple hundred miles later I set up the camper and tried to pop the rear hatch. It's a no-go. It appears that the passenger side latch is releasing but the drivers side is not. My tool selection is limited since I'm on the road, any tricks to get the hatch open? Probably just deal with it till I get home since I don't want the reverse problem and not be able to get it latched again.
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While the rear hatch is auto closing on my 2015, I can't unlock my doors by grabbing the driver's side door handle. Is this the same for others?
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Ok, rear latch handle, the black trim around it?
My idea was to wet sand it in place and repaint it. Does that sound like a good idea?
What kind of paint / clear coat to use on her?
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I've noticed that when I lock the truck, the rear hatch stays locked most of the time. I have to manually lock it with the key if I want my truck to be secure. When it does work, it doesn't sound weak. When it doesn't, it's silent. Where should I start looking?
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Weather is getting colder and I need defrost every morning. Rear defrost doesn't work, and I found this when I opened up the rear body panels
Driver Side
Passenger Side
I cleaned both sides on the loose contact with sandpaper, cleaned with alcohol, and then superglued back together. Will the superglue allow enough electrical contact for it to work? Is there a better adhesive or way to fix? I want it to fully cure/dry before I fire up. Hopefully in the morning my fix works.
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The driver's side barn door won't open. I took the handle off and the door panel and the cable is out but not broken. I'm having trouble figuring out exactly how that mechanism in there really works. I can see where the cable lifts, and I push on the other end of the "arm" and it doesn't release the door, almost seems like it should lift higher. I w-d40 the out of it and I'm gonna look at it again tomorrow in the light. Hopefully it was just stuck or gummed up. I don't want to take it in for something that seems like I should be able to do!
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The drivers side barn door won't open. I took the handle off and the door panel and the cable is out but not broken. I'm having trouble figuring out exactly how that mechanism in there really works. I can see where the cable lifts, and I push on the other end of the "arm" and it doesn't release the door, almost seems like it should lift higher....
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I think my rear window shocks are shot. Last week when the temps hit -15 they completely failed. Are these a rebuild-able shock or do I need to purchase new ones?
Why do I have a bad feeling that this will be an overpriced item????
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My friend who has two of my old Ex's and her silver '04 shut her hatch window first and then went to close the barn door and, well you know how that goes.
My question is, she has my old 2000 Ex for parts. Can the window be removed from the hatch itself or do we have to swap the whole hatch between trucks?
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So yesterday I tried to tackle this project. I soaked the latched in penetrating oil got it all loosened up were I could actually lock it with the key. So tried it with the key fob and no lock or unlock. So I pulled the actuator out and did the "tin foil" trick. Still wouldn't work. Didn't push the lock far enough to Lock the glass. However, it did move the latch. So I went down and purchased a NEW one from auto parts store stuck it in and whip-bang-boom it don't work either. As it don't push the lock far enough to lock the glass.
Vehicle 2000 X 4x4 w/ v10 Yes lock moves freely with little effort
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Can I disable unlocking of all the doors when I open the rear hatch from the outside? I figured out that if I use my fob, the doors does not unlock.
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Renee said her barn door lock stopped locking and unlocking with the key, so I checked the connecting rod from the cylinder to the actuator and found it had broke off the cylinder. I also found a small metal clip of some sort laying loose in the area beneath the actuator.
I checked the 'net and couldn't find any good, close up pics of each end of the rod to see how it's attached. I did find a YouTube vid of the actuator area, but when the goombah in the vid started talking, I thought to myself, that voice sounds familiar! So I scrolled down the page and what do I see? Apocs pic and name, showing it was uploaded by Jon, LOL.
Anyway, can someone remove that back plastic panel on the rear hatch and take a few pictures of the connecting rod and how it connects to the actuator? I know I have to replace the plastic/metal tab that connects the rod to the cylinder, but that opposite end, the actuator end, has me a bit perplexed.
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It's not the lock, it's the linkage. The actuator has been replaced and still can't lock/unlock it. Using the key is really tough to turn, but it will with enough force applied. Last summer I sprayed it with lube and it worked for a while, now we're back to square one. It's really clean, just acts like something is bent/worn.
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Since I bought the Ex last December the rear lock worked sometimes. The key cylinder wouldn't turn, but the actuator would work from time to time.
So since it is hunting season and I want to lock up the Ex when I am in the field I dug into it tonight.
I want to know how do I remove the actuator from the handle/lock mechanism. It looks like it just snaps on. I pulled the actuator back a touch and the arm feel off that drives the lock mechanism.
So after pulling the handle and trim piece, removing the lock cylinder and hosing it in PB blaster and brake kleen and more PB blaster I now have a lock cylinder that turns freely.
After turning my attention the lock mechanism and flooding it with PB blaster, I now can lock the Ex. That mechanism is not a smooth item! So do I need to remove the complete lock mechanism assembly to remove the actuator? Can I buy an actuator with a metal arm?
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I have noticed this rubbing, not quite grinding sound/vibration when I take off and turn. For instance pulling out of a parking lot and turning either left or right. Truck will do it only after it's been driven a while. I originally thought it was just the limited slip ratcheting but recently just changed the rear axle fluid adding Amsoil this time. I did not add any friction modifier because I didn't think the Amsoil needed it. So after going on a 500 mile trip I find it is still doing it. The truck sits at the stock ride height and has stock size wheels and tires on it. What it could be ? It only happens in the turn, not while driving straight. It still sounds like the differential but just want to be sure.
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