Ford Excursion :: Rear Hatch Defrost Does Not Work
Jul 18, 2017
Weather is getting colder and I need defrost every morning. Rear defrost doesn't work, and I found this when I opened up the rear body panels
Driver Side
Passenger Side
I cleaned both sides on the loose contact with sandpaper, cleaned with alcohol, and then superglued back together. Will the superglue allow enough electrical contact for it to work? Is there a better adhesive or way to fix? I want it to fully cure/dry before I fire up. Hopefully in the morning my fix works.
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So I looked at an 03 Excursion tonight, has some of the usual suspects, but the rear hatch lock doesn't work at all, with the key or with the power locks. This anything other than a "replace its guts" type operation? I've done the foil thing with my F350, actually i cut pennies and replaced the piece with that, but this seems mechanical.
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Does the rear hatch come from the factory with a different key than the ignition? My key will not open the rear hatch lock, it doesn't even go in the whole way.
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So I hooked up to the camper on Friday, threw some gear in the back off the Ex and hit the road. 4 hours and a couple hundred miles later I set up the camper and tried to pop the rear hatch. It's a no-go. It appears that the passenger side latch is releasing but the drivers side is not. My tool selection is limited since I'm on the road, any tricks to get the hatch open? Probably just deal with it till I get home since I don't want the reverse problem and not be able to get it latched again.
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Ok, rear latch handle, the black trim around it?
My idea was to wet sand it in place and repaint it. Does that sound like a good idea?
What kind of paint / clear coat to use on her?
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I've noticed that when I lock the truck, the rear hatch stays locked most of the time. I have to manually lock it with the key if I want my truck to be secure. When it does work, it doesn't sound weak. When it doesn't, it's silent. Where should I start looking?
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I think my rear window shocks are shot. Last week when the temps hit -15 they completely failed. Are these a rebuild-able shock or do I need to purchase new ones?
Why do I have a bad feeling that this will be an overpriced item????
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My friend who has two of my old Ex's and her silver '04 shut her hatch window first and then went to close the barn door and, well you know how that goes.
My question is, she has my old 2000 Ex for parts. Can the window be removed from the hatch itself or do we have to swap the whole hatch between trucks?
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The rear hatch on our ex, is starting to dig into the fiberglass of the barn doors. Paint is already gone, just white fiberglass. This wasn't an issue was first, however we have been opening and closing it quite a bit more than we used to. How to resolve this issue?
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So yesterday I tried to tackle this project. I soaked the latched in penetrating oil got it all loosened up were I could actually lock it with the key. So tried it with the key fob and no lock or unlock. So I pulled the actuator out and did the "tin foil" trick. Still wouldn't work. Didn't push the lock far enough to Lock the glass. However, it did move the latch. So I went down and purchased a NEW one from auto parts store stuck it in and whip-bang-boom it don't work either. As it don't push the lock far enough to lock the glass.
Vehicle 2000 X 4x4 w/ v10 Yes lock moves freely with little effort
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Need a wiring diagram that will show me how the rear window defroster circuit works in my Excursion. I have the EATC, which may or may not be related... not sure. So the diagram would probably need top be from 2002-2005. Obviously I ask because mine is not working (and neither are the mirror heaters since they are activated by the same switch - I think???). I've checked fuses to no avail...
Mine has never worked since I got this Excursion put together last year. I have read some previous threads that mention two different rear hatch glass defroster grids, one being a higher output grid (and different resistance?) than the other. Is there a chance my system is looking for the higher ohm grid, but my window grid is the lower ohm unit and therefore not activating the timer? I only ask this because my electrical system is M/Y 2002, but my back hatch is from a 2000 M/Y.
Also, I get no indicator light when the switch is depressed. I have tried 3 different switches just because I had extras... no luck.
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04 V8 Touareg. The switch for both the fuel hatch and rear hatch dont work. They worked the other day. I checked all the fuses and everything looks good there. I had disassemble the right rear interior panel to remove the CD changer to get at the manual release lever for the fuel hatch.
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It's not the lock, it's the linkage. The actuator has been replaced and still can't lock/unlock it. Using the key is really tough to turn, but it will with enough force applied. Last summer I sprayed it with lube and it worked for a while, now we're back to square one. It's really clean, just acts like something is bent/worn.
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Since I bought the Ex last December the rear lock worked sometimes. The key cylinder wouldn't turn, but the actuator would work from time to time.
So since it is hunting season and I want to lock up the Ex when I am in the field I dug into it tonight.
I want to know how do I remove the actuator from the handle/lock mechanism. It looks like it just snaps on. I pulled the actuator back a touch and the arm feel off that drives the lock mechanism.
So after pulling the handle and trim piece, removing the lock cylinder and hosing it in PB blaster and brake kleen and more PB blaster I now have a lock cylinder that turns freely.
After turning my attention the lock mechanism and flooding it with PB blaster, I now can lock the Ex. That mechanism is not a smooth item! So do I need to remove the complete lock mechanism assembly to remove the actuator? Can I buy an actuator with a metal arm?
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I picked up a '08 TSI wagon recently and noticed the bottom half of the rear defrost doesn't work & the lines are broke all on one side.
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I just had my treg serviced. One of the tsb's performed was the remote antenna fix. Range is much improved but one problem; the center button on the key remote which used to open the rear hatch doesn't work anymore. Now when pressed, the lights flash and the hatch does not open. I checked the comfort settings and they are still set at unlock doors and hatch.
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] have a 2001 Town & Country with 157,000 miles. The driver rear automatic sliding door will not work. You can hear the motor running but it doesn't totally close...so I open and close manually. I looked in Chrysler service manual...could this be a power latch assembly?? How hard would it be to replace myself. The rear hatch is the same way have to manually open/close...can hear motor and it goes through motions but doesn't open. ???? Then today the rear wiper wouldn't work....
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About a year ago I put in a new lock motor and it worked fine for a while but has stopped working. Is it the lock motor or something else? It unlocks but won't lock. There is not latch indicator on the upper hatch so it stayed unlocked without me knowing it.
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Rear passenger's side window doesn't work, everything else is OK so its not the fuse, switch, or lockout.
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2003 ford excursion xlt, 4x4, v10, auto.
My rear window defroster does not work. I have no power to the switch. on the reply I do have power to terminal 30 on the relay. If I use a jumper wire between 30 and 87 it works. I think the problem is terminal 86 should have power when thever key is in run position but it doesn't. I have the factory wiring diagram book but am at a loss. It seems to me it is more of a mechanical connection inside the junction box but there are other components on the circuit that work.
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My auto dimming rear view mirror doesn't work for squat. I've found simple replacements but didn't know if others have found for replacing, working around, upgrading, etc.
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