So I have 3 rear u joints and a vibration. I swear I read some where that there was a change to the rear shaft to aid in vibrations. So if that's the case could someone point me in the right thread or tell me what one to use. I have access to both....
View 14 RepliesI suspect my rear driveshaft is causing the vibration/noise I thought was coming from the front. I posted a few days ago about how I suspected it was my front wheel bearings making noise. Now its vibrating real bad and feels like a universal joint.
Can I pull the rear driveshaft out and drive off the front wheels with the switch in the 4x4 position? Last year my wife drove for a few days with no front driveshaft as I had one on order. It worked fine, for that.
I just want to go for a test drive to make sure that its the rear shaft, and not something else.
When I bought my 05 350 dually it had been wrecked, the rear diff was under the bumper and most of the rear suspension, including the back part of the rear drive shaft was in the bed of the truck. I have gotten everything back in place, and have driven the truck for a few weeks, but I knew I was going to have to replace the ujoints because there was visible damage to one of the caps. I have also had a vibration at about 45 mph. I had no way of knowing how the original driveshaft was oriented at the slip yoke so I went with best guess. Now in my research I read that if the driveshaft is not put back exactly in the same position vis a vis the slip yoke it will be out of balance.
Also if the drive shaft is dropped it is scrap, and if I have any lift on the truck {it had 4 inches when I got it} the whole thing will shake itself to pieces. Most of the answers to other drive shaft questions talk about taking things to a good driveshaft shop. No such thing here in the vast stretches of My state. I am pretty much on my own as far as building or repairing this thing. Is there any way to determine how the shaft was originally oriented? I also have some damage on the end of the yoke and will have some trouble getting the ujoint apart. Is the shaft now junk? And if I get an ebay replacement, how do I tell if that shaft is in the right orientation?
Truck has just over 5000 miles on it. Had the tires road forced, no luck! Took it to the dealer ford said replace the tires 2 at a time (r then f), picked it up yesterday no better and said that ford wants to put a new driveshaft in it!
View 14 RepliesI have a driveline resonance in my V10 2wd X. Before I changed the U Joints, it rumbled on deceleration. Now it rumbles on an equilibrium between throttle and speed. I think it is driveline related because the new U Joints reduced its scope. When I go over a bridge on the interstate, the rumble goes away in that brief period when the vehicle goes up and the tires go down.
I've had 2 exhaust breaks that occurred during 2 Florida pulls. I'm guessing they are related to the resonance.
The rumble changes when the vehicle is lifted when hitting a bridge, coule the angle of the driveshaft be wrong? What could fix that? I do have 195,000 miles.
I have a vibration coming from the rear. I put new tires on yesterday. Still it vibrates. I'm on the verge of doing a complete driveshaft overhaul very soon. The u_joints look a little worn but I can't feel any slop. I have watched a few videos on the slip yoke. How do you fix the slip yoke.
View 6 RepliesOn my way to see my folks and I started feeling a vibration like driveshaft or wheel bearing between 45-55 mph then at about 75 then BOOM! Pulled over and found a pool of ATF thought my stock 4R100 just bit the dust but looking at it the fluid is coming from the front driveshaft at the Tcase. My hubs are unlocked and my ESOF is in 2HI but I assume my tcase was locked. Also since the tcase is probably screwed I'm goin to do the 271 with manual hub swap, how hard that is?
View 10 RepliesWe've gone through pretty much every other option as to the vibration on take off and other high torque situations and have pretty much settled on the the driveshaft as the issue. I added traction bars recently thinking that the old leaf springs just aren't up to the job anymore. That seems to have worked some but it's still there. We've gone through the rear diff also and that's good. I'm looking at options for replacement of the shaft. What are the current thoughts on one piece shafts? Is aluminum the better option?
View 14 RepliesSince I bought this '05 Ex, I have had a driveline vibration. Not bad mind you... just barely noticeable when I let off the gas going 50+ mph. I had my local Ford dealer change the Ujoints and it worked a little.
I just installed Firestone Air Bags on the rear axle. I put 20 lbs. of pressure in them and it raised the rear exactly 1 inch (I measured before and after). After the air bags were in and pressurized and the rear lifted 1 inch, I took it for a drive. WOW! The driveline vibration is completely gone. Smooth as glass.
Question that I need opinions on from those who have more experience with an Ex than I do: Did my rear springs sag enough to cause a driveline vibration? And did the lifting of 1 inch put it BACK to stock height so that the driveline is now correct?
I want to and went to buy a new 2012 F350 leftover - everything is good except that Ford.com says the truck was initially put into service In September of 2012 and therefore my warranty will expire in September of 2015 instead 2016.
Dealer says it's an error and will be corrected AFTER I buy the truck, so far I have been unable to get a straight answer from Ford.
Any information about being able ot change the original date a vehicle is put into service ?
My 1997 4.0 Rear Wheel Drive is making a clicking noise when it is put into gear or when it switches from drive to reverse and vice versa. Sound is coming from the back of van. Does not make noise all the time. Drove 50 miles last night with no problems and minimal clicking. Could it be U-Joints going bad? Or is this a different problem?
View 6 RepliesProper alignment and re-installation of the front spline on the rear driveshaft of my 2015 F350.
I removed my rear driveshaft recently (it slipped right out upon removal without any force or resistance), and I'm getting ready to re-install it again this weekend, but I've noticed that one of the grooves between the array of male splines on the shaft itself appears to be slightly different than the rest - it seems to be slightly wider. It even has a white-colored stripe of paint down the full length of the groove as if it were denoting it as being somehow different from the rest?
Problem is, when visually inspecting the splines on the inside of the receiving yoke (the part that the spline fits into), I do NOT see any such differences. In other words, it doesn't appear that there is only ONE way to properly insert the front splined-end of the driveshaft. What am I missing here?
Is the front splined-end of the rear driveshaft intended to be inserted into the yoke in ANY position around the dial? Or is there only ONE specific position or orientation that it is intended to be inserted or installed? NOTE: I've seen references elsewhere on-line that seem to indicate the need for proper alignment when there are multiple U-Joints, and maybe this is a part of it (?), but I'm not quite sure which U-Joints to consider or how to interpret such an "alignment".
I have a 05 T with 85,000miles. Recently, it has developed a piercing squeal which varies according to rpm level. VW dealer thinks it is a bearing in driveshaft.
View 3 RepliesI've found it difficult trying to turn on the climate control in EV mode without engaging the ICE, especially on sunny mornings where it might be relatively cool outside (about 16-18 C/60-65 F) but the cabin is heating up quickly. I usually have it set to around 20-23 C (68-73 F) but usually in these conditions the ICE will start immediately after turning on the fans (AC off). How to avoid this? Or do I just need to set the climate control to "Lo" at the end of my previous journey? I've never been able to turn down the temperature quickly enough after turning it on without the ICE starting.
View 5 Replies2000 V10 X vibrates from 40-55MPH when OD is on. When OD is off, significantly less vibration - very minor between 40-50MPH. Bad OSS?
I had codes for misfires on #4 and #8. I replace the spark plugs and coil packs on all 10 cylinders and codes changed to P0354/P0358 - primary/secondary circuit. Wondering if that is contributing to it.
I did the full reset process on the PCM. Codes cleared throughout the entire process. But once I stopped and restarted truck, codes came back.
My thinking is to get a replacement PCM first. I haven't done a lot looking over the wires to #4,8 coil packs. cursory look they seem to be fine.
I am installing Sparco Evo Seats, a custom Harness Bar and racing harnesses in my MK4 R32 and have questions about wiring of the airbag and seatbelt sensor. What do I need to do so the airbag light and seatbelt warning light do not come on.
View 2 RepliesMy new to me 04 X has a fairly bad vibration that starts around 55 mph. At about 60-65 it sort of goes away, but not completely. The wheels are 20" F-250 wheels ( 2006 ) with spacers/adapters. These were on it when I bought it. I had the wheels re-balanced and checked the ball joints. This made no difference.
This is not what I would call the death wobble, just a bad vibration in the front end. The steering wheel does shake/vibrate a little, but so does most of the truck while it is doing it.
At about 60mph I start to get a vibration through the vehicle. Its not in the steering wheel but the seats have a little vibration and you can see the child seats start to shake some. Stops above 80 and doesn't get real bad, just a little shimmy.
I rotated and balanced the tires with only 6k on them and its no luck. Where to start looking next: driveshafts, u joints, sway bar, etc.
2003 6.0 4wd....
On our trip to Daytona this weekend I noticed a vibration/shudder between 45-55mph. Above and below that range it doesn't happen. Dont feel it in steering wheel or pedal. Does it in both 3rd and OD. Got under truck and driveshaft doesn't move at all. Just got those new tires put on a couple weeks ago. Don't remember this vibration before that.
Just checked tire pressure - front right 48 psi. All the rest have about 45 psi, would that do it? I have a shudder in brakes from stops above 45 mph I'm assuming warped rotors, could that do it?
I have a newish to me 02 ex with 7.3 psd. It had a gradual vibe at 70-75 mph that i brushed off when i test drove it. I figured it was tires, old vehicle, etc. Fast forward to a couple months later, it still happens in the same range of speed but now is bad enough to shake your coffee in the cup holder. Vibes happen regardless of throttle position, OD on or OD off, etc etc. It is entirely speed dependent, occurs on 2 lane roads when I go that fast, or on the interstate. Ive even kicked it into neutral on the interstate and the vibe is till there until it gets to 69, then it goes away.
I feel the vibe in the seat of my pants, barely in the steering wheel (I feel like what little is in the steering wheel is transmitted thru the frame, etc.) So here's what Ive had done thus far, and the vibe is still there, unchanged:
1. had wheels and tires balanced and rotated
2. had driveshaft balanced
3. had rear driveshaft u joints replaced
4. took rear driveshaft out and ran it up to 70mph on jack stands (no vibe)
5. pulled both rear axles one at a time to see if wheel bearings were OK and if vibe was there with axles out, and vibe was still there.
so i finally took it to a driveline shop and had them go through the rear end, thinking it had to be something there. They called me and said your carrier bearings are toast, so I said go ahead and rebuild the rear end with new timken bearings and new gears, etc. So they do that and I still have the same vibe at 70-75 mph. I'm at my wits end here, the shop totally expected the rear end rebuild to cure it.
The only thing I haven't done is remove the rear driveshaft and drive it in 4h to see if i can replicate the vibe there. I hate to spend anymore money on this just trial and errorring everything. That leaves the transfer case and transmission to be the only things causing the vibe as far as I know.
Also, the vibe occurs around 2k rpm, but only when at that speed. In lower speeds, at 2k rpm it is smooth as silk.
I have been chasing a vibration that occurs around 60-70 MPH. Had all the tires re-balanced and checked the rest of the suspension and narrowed it down to the rear driveshaft.
Took the X to the driveshaft shop and he checked all the joints and suggested that I grease the slip joint as it still was original as delivered. Here's what I did.
Removed the rear bolts and dropped the rear of the shaft. Cut off the factory boot clamps. Marked the shaft so it could go back in the EXACT way it came out and removed the rear of the shaft with the boot intact. While the rear of the shaft was out I checked the joints and found them to be perfect.
There was no real grease to speak of left, just the factory ford blue. Filled it and the splines with moly grease and re-installed the shaft and boot. Clamped the boot with nylon ties (per his suggestion). No vibration any longer. Thought I would post this up as a quick tip.