Ford Excursion :: Rear Differential Noise?
Jul 7, 2014
Some of you may have seen my recent post about raising the X. Its about 5" higher in the rear. Prior to raising the X, I had a vibration at around 65 to 70 mph. It felt like a tire was out of balance. Go a steady slower speed or a steady faster speed and it would go away.
Since raising the X, the vibration is gone, which I thought was cool. But now I have a "grind" type noise coming from the rear. I have to do all the testing on the freeway. There are no issues, no noises at regular street speeds.
On the freeway, when accelerating fairly hard up a hill from say 65 to 80, I can hear sort of a rumbly, grindy noise from the rear. Its not really loud but I can hear and feel it throughout the cab. If I coast at around 70-75 mph (just keep the speed the same) on flat ground, I can hear it come and go when the X is truly coasting for a few seconds. If I get up to say 85 and let off the gas, I can hear it as I decelerate until I get down to around 65.
This all only happens between say 75 and 90. I get no noise below 65-ish.
I had the drive shaft out over the weekend. The u-joints had no play and were free moving. I did feel the smallest play in the slip yoke, so I gave it a good greasing. That didn't change anything.
I'm guessing the problem is in the differential somewhere. I have not pulled the cover off yet to check the fluid.
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Have a growling noise in the rear when turning for the past two years. Getting worse so I assume I'm getting down to the metal on the clutches. Done all the other stuff like change the fluid and add friction additive. Have not pulled the cover and have the Mag Hytech diff that increases the capacity from 3 to 6 quarts of RP 75W-140 oil. Still does it. Just wanting to know if aftermarket clutch packs are available or is this a dealer only part. Ballpark how much are the clutch packs?
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Well i picked up a 96 4x4 with the 4.0 a few weeks ago and been fixing stuff weekly that i find wrong. One thing i noticed was the rear diff was leaky but couldn't get the fill plug out so left if for now. Last night my wife was on interstate and it just started making a loud noise so she pulls over calls me. I get there and drive it and it makes a woowoowoo noise and it got louder as speed increased. She was 3 miles from the exit so i drove it about 15-20 to get it off interstate than another 2 miles to her sisters. We let it sit for a few hours and found a flatbed to haul it home, and when we finally got home i drove it off the flat bed and now it was making a loud clunky noise. Parked it in drive till today. Cracked open the rear and no fluid came out.
Inspecting all the gears looked good no metal in bottom so i went and got a new rear cover and 3 qt. of fluid. Put it back together and the woowoowoo was still there but seemed to slowly go away as i drove it around the block. So what else could be going on here or do i need to drive it and warm up the fluid so it circulates? I also noticed a sheeee sound like metal on metal when braking but i changed all 4 rotors and both pads last week but i noticed the brakes in the rear that look like drum brakes was bare but i assume that is only for the ebrake so didn't bother changing them yet. Could those be hitting the inside of the rotor and making the metal to metal noise?
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I've only had the Ex for a few months so I'm still learning... After a trip to Orlando this weekend, I noticed a very faint odor of differential fluid from the driver's side front and rear wheels.
Nothing on the passenger's side. I've inspected the pinions and axles and found no wet areas at all, so I'm a little perplexed. The wheels and axle housings were pretty cool considering a 5 hour round trip.
I was also wondering if what I am smelling is due to the axle vent hoses?
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I have a 7.3 2003 Excursion. Should I change the gearing in the rear differential to make the truck go faster at lower RPMs? I know that will decrease my towing capability.
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Alright so about a few weeks ago I started hearing what sounded like it was time for new brake pads. But the other day I turned the corner and my neighbor came up to me and said he heard my truck making a metal on metal type noise. So I said okay fml, took it to a local mechanic.
Called me today and said the brakes are fine but it's rear differential, he said they put the truck on the lift and used the stethoscope and heard a metal noise inside the rear differential and said that the fluid in there was very metallic.
I bought this truck about 7 months ago from the dealership. It has a total 90,000 miles on it. What does it look like this could cost me worst comes to worst?
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I just came back from a long trip and during the 400 miles drive I started to hear noise coming from my differential - kind of like a constant high gear loud noise. I will hear this noise when I start to accelerate and it will only gets louder and louder as I go faster and faster. I had a pinion seal leaked fixed last week and I checked the fluid and it is full.
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My 1997 4.0 Rear Wheel Drive is making a clicking noise when it is put into gear or when it switches from drive to reverse and vice versa. Sound is coming from the back of van. Does not make noise all the time. Drove 50 miles last night with no problems and minimal clicking. Could it be U-Joints going bad? Or is this a different problem?
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I bought this van (1995 chevy van 20) last year and the rear end made some sounds but not as bad as its now.
So, after buying it I decided to open up the rear end and inspect for any damage to suggest it needs repairs. No signs of metal chips, nicks, or any wear on the bearings and gears. After a while of driving it I decided to remove the carriage and pinion from the rear end to give it a close inspection. After doing this and finding no clear sign of war or damage, i decided to replace the carriage barrings to see if that made a difference. After placing the new bearings back on the carriage, pinion back into the rear differential, and trying to do it all by myself, i lost the marks i had placed on the carriage bolts and clamps since I had little time to get it back together.
After that I had no other choice but to place the clamps bolts where i could estimate they belong. I was done, then drove it and some of the noise went away but a grinding sound on decelerating emerged. Well, now that sound is gotten worst and its more like a grinding sound. I can assume that not placing back the bolts and carriage clamps back changed the position of the carriage relative to where it was, but am not 100% sure. how can I correct the positioning of the carriage? if that is not the issue what test can i perform to find the culprit?
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I brought my 4runner in to fix a rear axle seal and to see if they could isolate a clunking noise I've been having. They said the clunking was coming from the rear differential (I believe him as that's what I heard, while driving or even just putting it into gear). They have yet to call me back, but any guesses here as to whether it is a bearing (my guess, as it is most pronounced on a bumpy road) or a cracked gear or something else. I've been driving with a clunk for about a week, but have various clunk problems for the last 80k miles ....
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At 120K mi, had ALL the service work done. Changing the trans fluid as well as the 4WD differential was due. A noise in the rear diff began. So the mech said a Honda bulletin stated that this happens sometimes when changing the fluid. Ok. Changed it again. ANYWAY, the noise is still slightly there when going from a stopped position .... steering wheel all the way to one side or the other ... and giving the gas. IS THE REAR DIFF BEING DAMAGED?
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I have a 1999 GMC Sierra. The rear differential cover was leaking on me for past couple of months, but I was putting it off. FInally this weekend my truck starting making an airplane sound that seemed to be coming from the rear. The sound happened on acceleration only, and increased in amplitude and frequency as the speed increased and as I pressed the gas more. If I let go of the gas, or let it cruise, then the sound would sputter once or twice, and go away. It would resume if I pressed on the gas again.
Since the rear differential cover was leaking, I thought I burned out the gears. When I changed the cover, the gears appeared to be fine. The lubricant was super low, and did smell burned out though. I refilled the fluid and put a new cover on. This did not solve my noise problem though.
Is it still the rear differential that is making the noise? Is it something else? How hard is it, and how involved is it to replace the rear differential? Can I replace its components, and which ones?
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I currently have the rear axle shafts off the truck. I took off, cleaned then put on the rear diff cover.
I live in an area that does nothing but form rust anywhere and everywhere in very little time.
I don't want rust forming in the rear diff gears - can I fill the rear diff up ? Or will it leak out of the rear shaft holes ? Can I fill it up halfway then ?
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2000 Excursion, Limited, 4X4, 6.8L, V10. My right front inner differential seal is leaking. I have researched and found out that I have to remove the pumpkin gear assembly from the front differential to get at the seal.
Do I need any special tools to get the seals seated back into the differential? Any instructions or a list of parts needed?
I went to fordparts.com and entered my vin number but it makes no reference to the parts of the front differential only the rear.
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I recently installed front and rear Mag-Hytek diff covers and the front had a small leak. I thought I had gouged the housing during removal of the factory cover, so I set aside time to remove the Mag-Hytek and repair the housing. I just removed the new cover and upon inspection, there is no gouge. There is a slight scratch, but not in the area of the leak.
Upon further inspection it appears as though the o-ring wasn't properly sealing. There is a slight rust coloring where the o-ring was seated against the housing, running from where the left lower spring shackle touches the diff housing, to the bottom of the housing. The rest of the o-ring route looks clear (no rusty coloring where the o-ring was seated).
Is it possible that the spring shackle is too close to the diff, causing the new cover to not be able to seal properly? (The truck had a lift on it when I bought it. When I installed the Bilsteins, I noted that the old shocks were installed very "amateurish", so I suppose it's possible the springs were as well.)
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Last week I broke the pinion and spider gears in in rear end. Well Im getting a used rear end rather than rebuidling mine. What is the gear ratio on the 97 F150 xlt 4.6l 4x4. I figured they would all be the same but my tag is missing on my diff and I was told by an auto parts store that there were a couple different ones.
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My rear-end differential came apart and is not repairable. I have a 1997 F150, 2WD, 4.6L engine, 5 lug wheels. Which years have the same rear ends so I can scour the junk yards for a replacement?
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Any likely culprits? 2002 F150 (with Triton V8 if that makes a difference).
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My 2004 Ford F150 only has 20,000 miles on it but makes a shudder from stop turning left or right. I asked the dealership about it and was told that it was likely the clutch pack in the rear differential sticking. I was told I could try changing out the fluid while also adding a few ounces of some special lubricant. But, they said it wasn't a guaranteed fix. Apparently, they have tried this fluid change and drive the vehicle in figure 8's trying to get the lubricant between the plates. They also said that this was a known problem to Ford. Lastly, I was told it wouldn't hurt anything to keep driving it. I checked some other online forums for Ford F150 owners and this does seem to be a recurring problem. I'm thinking about having the clutch pack replaced but obviously hate to spend the money if I don't have to.
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It may sound silly, but can I lift my 04 explorer by the rear differential to change brakes etc? I have NOT had a Independant suspension vehicle prior to this and dont want to mess up anything. If I cannot use that point to lift it, where is a point to lift it using a floor jack so I can service the rear of the vehicle after I place it on jack stands?
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I got a new to me truck. It's a 2004 F150 Lariat 4x4 with the 5.4L. It's got a whine that I believe is coming from the rear differential. I'm going to change the fluid. My axle code is 26 which I believe is 3.73 non-limited slip. My owners manual says to use 75w-90 but I've seen a lot of posts on here that say to use 75w-140. Which is right or better? Also, is my rear differential the 9.75"?
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