Ford Excursion :: Rear Brake Pad Change?

Well I've got 54K on the Ex and we'll be heading out for what will likely be our last long towing trip through some pretty serious terrain. I've got Hawk LTS pads on the front and those are doing really well but I wanted to change out my rear pads...upon closer inspection I still had about 1/3 of the pads left...but since I had torn everything apart...I installed the new pads so here's some pictures and a little write up as I go.

First jack up the rear of the Ex and make sure you support it with jack stands for safety.

Next remove the wheels and here's what you got

What you are looking for are 4 bolts on the back side. There are 2 caliper mounting bolts and 2 slide bolts. Torque values for the caliper mounting bolts are 166 ft-lbs and for the slide bolts 42 ft-lbs. I believe the caliper mounting bolt is an 18mm and the slide bolt is a 12 or 13mm (sorry I can't remember right now). But here's what you will be looking for...notice I'm reaching behind the rotor to take this picture outwards...

You will want to LOOSEN the caliper mounting bolts FIRST but DO NOT REMOVE them yet...then loosen the slide bolts...once both are loose...remove the caliper mounting bolts and SUPPORT the caliper...do NOT let it hang by the hose.

Here's a close up of my old pads...you can see there's still plenty of meat...but I was here and it don't take long to change them...

Remove the slide bolts and then separate the slide from the caliper

Next you will need to remove the slide pins from their holes...CAREFULLY grip the top of the rubber boot and slide if off of the pin as you are pulling hte pin up and out. Work with one slide pin at a time to not confuse them...one has a NOTCH and that will go on top the of the caliper...but if you work one at a time...there's no confusion. Pull out the slide pin and clean it off...you will need some high temperature brake grease to LIGHTLY lube up the pins before reinserting them. IF the pins are STUCK (mine weren't but I've heard they can be...) you may need to apply a little heat to try and break them free. Inspect the boots to make sure they aren't cracked or dry rotted and once you apply a THIN layer of grease...reinsert them into the hole and slip the boot back over the ridges. It will be obvious for the orientation when you reinstall the slide onto the caliper...basically the "flat" edge goes against the caliper and the "round" or "notch" sticks out the end...

At this point you will need to "press" the caliper pistons back into the caliper...there are a number of ways to do this...you can get a caliper tool from Autozone (they give it to you for free you just leave a deposit on your credit card so you bring it back!)...or you can do what I do...use a big C-clamp and I use my old brake pads to press against...compress the pistons back into the caliper...BUT REMEMBER TO LOOSEN YOUR MASTER CYLINDER CAP FIRST...when you compress your piston...the fluid in the lines gets forced back into the master cylinder...if you don't open the lid...pressure could be built up...

Here's the new pads installed and the slide bolts barely engaged to hold the slide to the caliper...Do not tighten these bolts until you have reinstalled the caliper onto the mounting brackets and snugged down the caliper mounting bolts.

Here's a view looking DOWN from above with the slide bolts AND mounting bolts engaged but NOT tightened yet.

Now make sure you torque everything up on this side and move to the other side and repeat the steps.

Once you finish the second side make sure you tighten your master cylinder cap.

At this point I also rotated my tires...but if you aren't doing that...simply return your tires to the Ex and torque your lug nuts and you are done.

I can typically change brake pads in about 30-45 minutes...they aren't that hard at all.

Next step...start the truck and pump the brakes to return brake pressure...then take the truck for a drive.

It is important to also "bed in your pads"...this involves a number of 30mph to 5mph HARD STOPS to heat up the pads and rotors and allow for a transfer of brake pad material to the rotors...you'll smell "hot brakes" when you have done it enough...typically about 6-8 hard stops. Then let the truck cool down without your foot on the brakes.

I didn't mess with the parking brake while I was back there because I had tested it just prior to my starting and it is holding nicely...I didn't feel like messing with it incase it is all rusted and fell apart on me.