Ford Excursion :: Rear Springs Basically The Same On 4X2 As 4X4?
Jan 30, 2013
Here's a pic of rear springs off a 4X2 Ex.
They look the same to me with the exception of not having the bottom overload spring with the rubber snubber on it for the axle wrap.
I need a pair of stock rear springs so I can pull the bottom two leaves off in order to do a modded B-code, and these are available for me to use if they will work.
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I'm going to be installing a 4" lift on my truck and was wondering what the pros and cons are using springs or blocks. I have the option of going with either the pro comp 22210/22415 springs or 22210 with a 5" block. With the block I'd be saving around $200 but I guess my main concern is ride quality. Dont know if the stock rear springs have issues like the front do. I'm probably going to go all spring but it would be nice to save a few bucks.
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My Ex has a ProComp 6" lift that was installed in 2004 (it's an 03) and it seems that the rear springs are worn out and sagging. I'm assuming the lift used the stock springs and blocks. I haven't measured but I'd say the rear is 1" - 2"s lower in the back. Question is should I replace the springs with stock ones? Maybe get springs that'll give me some lift and remove the blocks? Airbag it?
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Since I bought this '05 Ex, I have had a driveline vibration. Not bad mind you... just barely noticeable when I let off the gas going 50+ mph. I had my local Ford dealer change the Ujoints and it worked a little.
I just installed Firestone Air Bags on the rear axle. I put 20 lbs. of pressure in them and it raised the rear exactly 1 inch (I measured before and after). After the air bags were in and pressurized and the rear lifted 1 inch, I took it for a drive. WOW! The driveline vibration is completely gone. Smooth as glass.
Question that I need opinions on from those who have more experience with an Ex than I do: Did my rear springs sag enough to cause a driveline vibration? And did the lifting of 1 inch put it BACK to stock height so that the driveline is now correct?
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Finally pulling the trigger on some springs so I can get this work done, Tousely prices were great on the W's compared to local dealers. Here are some questions.
1. I am planning to go with the W springs up front.
2. Can I still use the B for the rear mod, or do I need C's to keep it level? (Or F's)
3. Do I need blocks in the rear, or just the springs on the axle?
4. Do I need the 2" shackle up front?
5. I have dual Fox shocks that came with the ex when I bought it. The prior owner said they ran a little rough. Are they able to be re-valved, or is it cheaper to go with Bilstein?
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Been chasing this for a few weeks and getting fed up. Have a bad metal on metal "creaking" noise from the front at low speeds.
Background - Replaced springs with X code front and modded C code rear from Junior at ATS. Also replaced shocks at the same time. All hardware tightened with weight on suspension. Have rechecked torque on ubolts many times, even loosened and retightened both ends of the shackles, sway bar links, shocks, etc.
Can't get the noise to go away. Hard to pinpoint exactly where it's coming from but you can "feel" the noise in the back half of the front springs.
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Trying to figure out if my front leafs are factory or not. I assume so but they look extremely weak for a 9k rig.
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I recently purchased a 2000 Ex Limited 2wd. It is stone stock except a slight lift. This lift gives it a pretty significant rake that I'm not a fan of. I'd like to get this thing leveled out without spending a fortune and I believe that would require the knowledge of the FTE.
The pictures below show the rake and existing suspension mods. With 285/75 16 Tires there is about 6" clearance from tire to fender on the front and 9.5" in the rear. It has a 2" spacer under what I imagine is the stock front coil spring and a 4" block below what do not appear to be stock leaf springs (guessing because the anti wrap spring is not present).
I'd like to get the front end to sit about 3" higher than it currently is to better match the rear. Lifts of any type are foreign to me. What front springs (and other components) do I need (and what brands would you recommend based on hard earned experience) to make this thing work?
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My rear springs are worn out
apparently ... it's not a pickup ...
seriously though ... they are worn out
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Have been the owner of a 96 4.0 AWD for 10 yrs and if they still made this van I would get one in a heartbeat. Been doing a search on how to replace the rear coil springs with no luck... is there special tools or procedures involved?
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...So I think the time has come to replace the rear springs in my SuperCrew....They are starting to sag...nothings broken...spring perches look ok. Question is , Are the supercrew springs any different than a reg cab or supercab?
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I need to replace rear spring packs on our
97 Explorer sport 4.0 auto 4x4.
What years should I look for? Will 91-01 packs work?
I know of a 92 4x4 close by that is being parted out.
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I have a 02 Explorer that has 2 cracked rear coil springs.
How hard are they to change ?
What brand to use ?
I was looking at the Monroe Quick-Strut.
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I have a 99 SD 250 diesel, I also have a broken rear leaf spring. My truck has a 3 1/2 in. block between axle and leaf. My question is this. Can I remove the block and install 4" lift leaf springs without messing up my pinion angle? The blocks look square. But someone toldme once they are made to a specific angle for rotating pinion for better u joint alignment. Sounds like it could be true.
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I would like to add rear overload leaves to my 2016 F250 that for some reason I didn't order with the camper prep package. From what my internet research tells me I will need to add the frame tabs and rubber bumpers, the overload leaves themselves, and of course longer U bolts.
My question is, in all of the pictures I can find, there in an intermediate spacer block between the regular leaf pack and the overload leaf. I can find a part number for this block ( 2C3Z-5594-AA ) only for 2002-2007 trucks. The parts diagrams I've seen online at various Ford sites don't list a part number for this block on current model trucks. Most just give a single part number for the whole leaf pack.
For 2014-2016 F250 with the camper package, or an F350 know what part numbers I might be looking for? Do the newer model year trucks still use an intermediate spacer block? Any chance someone with one of the aforementioned vehicles can post a picture of what the overload leaf setup looks like on a new(er) truck?
I would assume if you snap an overload leaf you can get a replacement from Ford, so why can't I find a part number for them either? I'm pretty sure I will have overloads built at a local spring shop anyway, but at least want to make sure I'm matching the correct and current factory setup.
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After installing the autospring 2" Leveling kit and the rear add a leaf 1.5" I was wondering if its at all possible to add a slight steel plate between the spacers and rear leaf to get just a little more lift.
I have access to our shop where I can get the steel and get it cut and drilled accurately, just wondering if this will cause any issues be adding additional plate?
Like for the front add it between the spacer and strut and in the back, when when I was adding the new leaf it had some shims I guess in between the leafs, so just curious if I could add the plate under the leafs?
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1993 f-150 with 1988 5.0 with no pollution stuff fuel injected. here's the problem. Starts fine and idles great for about 5 minutes , check engine light comes on and it very nearly stalls at which point it begins to miss and surge and basically tries to die.
If I feather the Throttle i can keep it running but not smooth!! Can't find and vacuum leaks and the egr seems to be working (push plunger up - trk). dies. Ran fine when I bought it this way about 1 year ago and all of a sudden this. note.... It started doing this after it ran low on coolant but did not over-heat.
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I decided to go ahead and do a rear block replacement. I'm going to install the Ready lift 4 inch blocks.
I have both u bolts and nuts off of both sides. Rear stabilizer bar disconnected and both shocks disconnected. However, when I raise the rear of the truck, the axle raises as well. What could be holding it on still? I noticed there's a nut in the middle of the leaf springs. Do I take that nut off? I just don't know what could be keeping it from separating.
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Guess all the speed bumps in Scotland have finally taken its toll after 145,000 miles back right spring is broken at the top and the back left is cracked and about to break as well. Getting both springs replaced but wondering if it is needed to the shocks as well?
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So I bought mkv r32 FK streetline coilovers, got them installed and when I went to adjust them myself I ran into an issue. The rear springs are upside down, making the threads on the bottom so I can't even get the flat tool in there without dropping the control arm. The tech working on it told me that is how the kit is designed.
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I am experiencing a bad clunking noise when going over bumps. Its comming from the passenger rear and I am assuming the springs collapsed. How can i tell for sure? The car is sitting a little lower on the corner. Is it bad to drive the car with the spring in this condition?
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