Ford Excursion :: Rattle Going On From Underneath When RPMs Get Up
Aug 8, 2016
When my RPM's get up there I get a rattle going on from underneath. Not sure what that is. Rattle/Vibration becoming more pronounced. What it is.
View 2 RepliesWhen my RPM's get up there I get a rattle going on from underneath. Not sure what that is. Rattle/Vibration becoming more pronounced. What it is.
View 2 Replies06' F150 4x4 XLT SCrew 29K-mi
I have a rattle of some sort I can hear coming from underneath towards the rear while under acceleration. Usually hear mostly at certain RPM and not through entire accel to hwy speed. Do not hear it while in Park and reving engine, but on the road I hear it. Mostly I think after it gets hot or something.
No driveability issue only rattle? While I was reving in Park I could hear a bubbling after I let off the pedal. Is that normal. I don't think it is the same noise/rattle.
I've been hearing this whining noise for a while now and sounds like it is coming from underneath the truck somewhere. Sounds more like a power steering pump whining when turning too far on my old chevy!
It is loudest when first starting and is quite loud at times. Sound varies in pitch. I have crawled around under the truck a couple of times and could not tell where it was coming from. The resonance seems to throw the sound around. Once I start to drive, it tones down where it is not noticeable.
This past weekend, I decided to top off fuel before I changed state lines and had to pay more. was about 1/2 tank. Topped off and surprised it only took about 7 gallons. Usually it is about 10 gallons per 1/4 on the fuel guage, so I was expecting near 20 gallons.
Got back in truck and fuel gauge was just under 3/4 tank reading! I had the neck full as I didn't think 7 gallons was right, so I was suspecting the gas station pump was not working right but it was full in the neck for sure.
So, now....thinking that this whining noise is the fuel pump........ How difficult will it be if it is the fuel pump? I have about 144K miles now.
We went to an out of town zoo over the weekend and the exit is going up a short but steep incline. When going up I get this very noticable shutter, vibration coming from underneath but thats the only time it does it. This is the 3rd weekend in a row weve been there and its done it everytime. Is there anything I could check? Normal driving is non issue, and going up this incline were only going like 5 mph or so. Im stumped.
View 3 RepliesI have this rattle coming from underneath the car that's been going on for a while.
The car has 110k miles and the rattle is most prominent when I start the car or accelerate hard or just cruising downhill without gas.
I went to one of the well known shops in the area and they said it's coming from the cat and it needs to be replace and quoted me like $1300 for parts and labor which seemed quite steep to me.
They said it's coming from the inside the cat so it needs to be replaced.
Is this a common issue with our cars? I though maybe something is loose and can be just welded together or something.
My 2005 Elantra (what a beauty, cobalt blue) shakes, rattles in the front underneath, an obvious suspension problem. Was told 3 different things by 3 different mechanics. Bad shocks/struts, bad universal joint, bad tie rod.
When I go 50mph it rattles the worst, except for when you hit bumps, but mostly the ride is bumpy all the time. At 65mph, it's smooth. Also, the steering squeaks when car first starts up. Replaced belt, keep wd40 handy, but still does it. Steering strong and seems good otherwise.
I have a 2002 Santa Fe that has started to have a very loud rattle. It sounds like it is coming from underneath the vehicle toward the rear, possibly the passenger-side wheel-well, but that specific location just may be an auditory illusion.
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Just picked up an 01 Excursion V10 for $2900 with 170k on the odometer. Has some damage on the left quarter panel, but it runs perfectly.
Since I bought it, there has been a squeaking noise that I could feel underneath the driver's side floorboard. I figured it was body mounts. To find out if that was the case, I first sprayed both the sway bar bushings and the body mounts with some oil. The noise went away, but came back the next day.
The second time, I sprayed only the body mounts, and again the noise went away, only to return again. Aside from which, the sway bar bushings look like they were installed very recently.
So, it's the body mounts, but I've come across threads here and elsewhere that these were a common issue, but I haven't seen a fix for them. I assume new mounts would eventually develop the same noise.
What am I looking at here? Just some new mounts or do I need to do something else?
At 55 I get this rattle that sounds like something loose vibrating off something else, like the downpipe or something, and it sounds to me from the driver seat like it's coming from the passenger side firewall. The passengers sometimes say it sounds like it's coming from the wheel well but I haven't heard it yet from the passenger side. It's loud. Almost like a knocking. Really only happens at 55. I can't find anything lose. At my wits end.
View 14 RepliesI have recently had the fix done on my Prius for the Vibration after Cold Soaks. I also installed the Signal Side Mirrors around the same time. Shortly after both of these changes, I started to notice a noise coming that sounded like it was coming from the engine compartment in front of the passenger. It sounded like a cable rattling against a plastic piece. The noise did not always occur.
I assumed that this was the cable for the side mirrors rattling around inside of the bumper. I opened this area up and used fittings to secure the cable much better. This did nothing. The noise was the exact same.
I have a rattle in my drivers side front hub. I primarily hear it when I hit small bumps. With the hubs locked and in 2wd, the rattle is gone. Could this be just the hubs where replacing them with warn manuals would fix it or is it likely more involved?
View 6 RepliesSo it sounds like a whine at low RPMs, but once I get going it goes away. Popped the hood while she was running and took the filter housing loose and you can hear it through the intake... It's all stock....
View 14 RepliesNot really sure if the V-10 is supposed to be this way or not. I've had quite a few of the 4.6 and 5.4, both the 2v and 3v variant. Never had them do it.
Basically, my V-10 doesn't idle down easily. I can do a neutral rev and it will hang out from 1,000 to 1,500 rpm for maybe 2-3 seconds, then drop to normal idle revs.
While in gear and slowing to a stop, it feels like the motor is fighting the brakes and I have to press harder to stop. It also comes off the transmission when going 35-40 mph and letting off the gas. Causes a weird lurch if I have to get back on the gas.
Not dangerous or anything of that sort, but very very annoying. And I feel it's costing me some MPG's since I drive 99% city and have lots of stops. Probably 1-2 MPG at max. Back in my 2v Mustang days I remember some of the guys were modifying the 4.6 2v IAC because of similar complaints. I'm trying to dig up that mod, but it's been a few years.
I plan on cleaning the IAC this week when I get the time
So on my new 2.0T Sonata I noticed a brief metallic rattle in the 2K-3K RPM range when you rev the throttle. I was very concerned.
The sales rep said it may be the heat shielding that is coming lose. He was concerned and said to bring it back when Service is open.
I just got back from the dealer: The service manager didn't know what it was but his tech said it was part of the turbo system, it's a 1/4 inch bar (parallel with the bumper) you can plainly see between the firewall and engine. He said what it did but I forgot to take notes.
I listened to another 2.0 Turbo Sonata on the lot and it has the exact same rattle when rev'd.
I've finally found the elusive and annoying rattle under my '00 Ex V10. It only rattled while accelerating and at non regular times. I searched many threads on FTE looking for suggestions and many stated the flywheel cover(among other things) may be the culprit. Nope, all good. Turned out to be a heat shield on the exhaust crossover. It is welded on the four corners and one weld had let loose. It was almost imperceptible. It took going under on a cool morning with a small rubber mallet and giving it a tap to find it. Took the grinder out-no more rattle! If you have that elusive rattle give that shield a check.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2001 Ex with the 6.8, stock motor, exhaust etc and I have had a rattle I have not been able to track down. I finally crawled under it the other day with a buddy (auto body guy) and we isolated the noise to be coming from inside the tailpipe, just about where it bends by the rear tire/wheel. I ran a fish tape up the pipe and it seemed to stop right in the area of the bend. My question is there a baffle of some sort in there?
View 2 RepliesA little back ground... Drove from NM to MN. Truck ran well averaged 13.5 mpg. hand calc'd (only .1 off of trip computer, I found it was typically a rounding difference). Shimmy and vibration from 70 to 80 mph, I am getting wheels rebalanced today. Rear AC blows very cold, front AC needs attention, coldish air blowing.
I have a squeak behind the bash on the passenger side. After about 300 miles of feeling in, under, over etc we couldn't find the squeak. After a bit we turned off the max AC and the squeak went away. Now it is a squeak with road movement but it only does it when the Max AC fan is running. When we got to Minnesota, we lifted the hood and I can move the whole AC unit and recreate the squeak/rattle. Is this movement usual? Would this be the cause of my front AC not blowing cold?
I've had an intermittent rattle for a bit on front drivers side. Checked sway bar links and they are good. I grabbed the caliper and it actually rattles at the slides. I replaced the slides last week on the front end and still rattles. Passenger side is good, but drivers isn't. How to address this?
View 2 RepliesMy 01 excursion with a v10 6.8 liter gas engine was running rough and cutting out at 40 miles an hour climbing hills and similar situations. Had some engine codes for cylinder misfires. Changed all the spark plugs. Now it does not cut out and runs generally smoother. But something is still very wrong. At idle, you can hear it kind of shuddering.
In first and second gear it does pretty well, but when it goes to 3rd the shudder and vibration in the vehicle becomes noticeable, it can become very bad as you slowly climb to 40 miles or 50 miles an hour. If you give it gas and rev the RPMs up and go on up to 60 or 70 miles an hour, it smooths out and you would not think there was anything wrong with it.
The mechanic said we would have to wait until an engine code comes up, but I would like to understand and fix this problem if we could.
I have a 2001 v10 with about 157k miles on it. Recently (within last 2 months) I am getting a ticking noise that is pretty constant. It doesn't seem to increase with rpms and I can barely hear it with the hood open- I hear it much better with the hood closed. It seems to start about 2-3 seconds after I start the car (when fan clutch engages?) and seems to be coming from the front middle of the engine. I do not see any broken exhaust studs. I do also occasionally have a ticking noise at 1500 rpms (only at 1500 rpms- not sure if it's related or not). I made a short video- not sure if you can hear the noise.
View 8 RepliesMy '00 V10 4x4 w/ 163k miles has had a rough shift from 2-3 (30-40 mph) with high rpms. If I let off the throttle before the shift I can get it to shift smooth, but if I don't let off the throttle it can shift really hard. I only have this issue from 2-3 and it has not gotten worse since I bought the rig almost two years ago. Driving conditions are around town on occasion and for towing a 3k pound pop up. Maybe 2k miles a year so far? The hard shift happens whether towing or not.
I have done just a drain and fill on the trans fluid a year ago. Have not had time to change the filter (even though I have read it's not necessary). I am planning on doing another drain and fill soon along with the filter since I have one and cleaning out the trans pan.
When searching on FTE I read a post about the accumulator springs that can go bad and was wondering if maybe this is the problem? Since I am planning on doing the filter change I was going to do the spring replacement while the pan was open.