Ford Excursion :: Rattle Coming From Hubs When Driving Over Rough Or Broken Pavement
Oct 8, 2014
Swapped for Warn standard hubs a few months back when the ESOF's turned out to be trashed.
Since then, I've noticed a rattle coming from the hubs when driving over rough or broken pavement. I've checked the outer caps and they're good and snug, proper amount of grease inside, and the hub itself is completely secure.
Do aftermarket hubs have tis issue? It's not critical, but on cooler evenings with the windows down it sound like a rattle trap unless the roads are in good shape. More of a pet peeve I suppose, but still curious.
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Our 2012 SE has an intermittent rattle somewhere in the rear of the Tiguan when riding on even moderately rough pavement. Ultimately I'll have to crawl around back there while my wife drives up and down a rough road to locate the rattle, I guess, What was the source of the rattle.
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Glove box rattle on the 3rd gen RX. Mine makes a slight noise over very rough pavement. It seems to make noise at the latch, so a felt is probably not going to work.
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Is it ok to keep my front hubs locked in and the switch in the 2wd position for everyday driving? Only reason I do it is because in auto it doesn't always go into 4wd.
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I have a 2001 Ex with the 6.8, stock motor, exhaust etc and I have had a rattle I have not been able to track down. I finally crawled under it the other day with a buddy (auto body guy) and we isolated the noise to be coming from inside the tailpipe, just about where it bends by the rear tire/wheel. I ran a fish tape up the pipe and it seemed to stop right in the area of the bend. My question is there a baffle of some sort in there?
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2007 Touareg with 19",V6, with 10,700 miles
Problem: Noise or rattle in engine compartment, at low speed (less than 25miles/hour) on uneven pavement (not potholes). Can be replicated over and over.
The dealer acknowledge the noise and has tightened all suspension parts, greased all joints, replace front-right shock and bushings (for some reason the noise is more prevalent on Right side), put some sort of tool with sensors in different areas of the chassis to "hear" noise differences while driving to determine the culprit.
Description: To me, the noise sounds like there is something lose in either the engine compartment or the area where the wipers are located. Sort of like if there was something (plastic maybe) hitting the chassis (only at slow speeds - I cannot hear it when driving faster I guess because of engine and road noise). I have not been able to figure it out.
The noise was present only on another 2007 with 8K miles.
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When I drive over quick choppy bumps in pavement I get a rattle in the rear of the suspension, but only when the bump is on one side. When the bump is long and activates both rear wheels, like a speed bump or a large road crack I don't get the rattle.
The sound seems to be worse on the right side and I can't really figure it out. Anything specific I should look out for?
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A rattle has developed coming from the headliner behind the sunroof, I hear it when driving over rough roads. It seems most noticeable on the passenger side. I can replicate it if I thump on the headliner in the backseat behind the sunroof. I can make it stop if I push up against the headliner when sitting in the back seat. And I am pretty sure its not coming from the sunroof which has its own set of noises.
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I have a 2012 Tig S. I hear a rattle coming from under dash by steering wheel. It happens over rough pavement. Had it at the dealer, they replaced the sway bar linkage. The noise is still there. Service rep. says its normal. I drove another new Tig and it felt tight. I only have 12000 miles on it. Really like my Tig.
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For the past couple of days I have been hearing a window rattle. It is hard to figure out where the rattle is coming from, but my guess would be the hatchback door. It only occurs when I am driving on a rough terrain with a lot of bumps.
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Trying to get my original auto hubs to unlock. Both are stuck locked. The dials turn but they won't disengage. Installing warn premium hubs tomorrow and the instructions say to unlock the hubs first. How can I do this if you can't unlock them?
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Okay, pulled them and checked it all out.. Looks fine, disassembled the hubs and cleaned then greased went to reassemble them on the truck and they will not slide into the hub!?! What's the deal, is there a special trick to this?
It's a simple procedure, but it seems that the center shaft on the axle and the outer splined hub are not centered. thus binding, but why. It came out without a fight. I also have jacked up the front and wiggled it.
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I have a 2012 Santa fe SE that with 22k miles on it. I have developed an annoying rattle in the back driver side door. I have gone around all of the doors with a screwdriver and tightened up everything but this rattle persists when driving on moderately rough roads. As odd as it seems I believe it also occurs more frequently on smooth roads when going around a left curve.
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A relative's '04 EX Limited is having an odd problem. He put it in "4x4 Low" to back a trailer into a barn and after the task was complete the transfer case wouldn't shift out of low range. He tried multiple times and after about 5 minutes of fiddling around with it, it shifted into 4-Hi but wouldn't go back to 2-Hi. The hubs are in the "auto" position and will not manually unlock (the selector turns). 4x4 indicator on dash is not lit. Could the dash switch be bad? Why would the transfer case and hubs act up at the same time?
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After a lot of reading and troubleshooting, I have come to know that it takes vacuum to engage and vacuum to disengage the automatic locking hubs on the Ford F series and Excursion. Most indications is that ~ 15" hg is required to engage and approximately half that much to disengage them. The mechanism that either engages or disengages them acts similarly to a ball point pen. The full amount of vacuum causes the mechanism to travel to it's limit, where the hub is engaged, whereas half the amount of vacuum applied only causes the mechanism to travel to its midpoint, which is where is should be for disengagement.
In my case, I have tested for vacuum leaks, none are present. I have installed new Ford OEM hub assemblies, a new locking hub solenoid and have tested the function of my vacuum pump. It draws about 13.5" hg of vacuum on the system. I do not have any issues with HVAC controls in the cabin of the truck. When installing the new hubs, I ensured that they are unlocked, the inner spline assy spins freely and once installed, the wheel shaft spins freely by hand. When I shift to 4WD on the dash, the hubs engage and all is well.
Problem I am having is when I shift back to 2WD, the hubs remain locked. I can tell as the wheel shafts are not able to be spun freely by hand. I have tried backing the vehicle, etc. No luck. Furthermore, when monitoring vacuum while engaging and disengaging 4WD, I can see that the full vacuum (~13,5") is applied when engaging. What concerns me is that only 3.5 - 4.0" hg is applied when disengaging. This is certainly not enough to operate the mechanism to the point of disengaging the hubs.
I have considered replacing the vacuum pump as I am only getting 13.5" hg of vacuum, however, when I research the replacement part, many have indicated that a new one only draws about that much, so I do not see the value in replacement.
Have any of you dealt with the same or similar problem and if so, what was your resolution?
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Upon noticing some squeaking noise when my car hits particularly rough pavement I asked my mechanic to take a look. He informed me that my front lower control arm bushings have shifted, the right one some, and the left just a hair. The car was involved in an accident some years back and about two years ago I ran it into a curb bad enough to shift my steering wheel about 10-15 degrees out of position.
According to the mechanic, it its not a bad problem currently, drivability is not at all affected, but it could be a potential issue in the future. However, because I just identified the problem, I don't know if it is recent or has been there all along for the last 5 years (just inherited the car from my dad a few months ago). For the moment, its wait and see if it gets any worse.
So I say, OK, whats it take to correct it, just for future reference. This is when I find out that the 02 Camry, for some insane reason, has control arm bushings that are not replaceable without replacing the entire control arm. And if that wasn't bad enough, the control arms cannot be removed without lifting or removing the engine AND transmission!?
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I noticed that my sunroof creaks slightly when going over rough pavement when closed. I can duplicate the noise by pushing up on the closed sunroof with my fist. It's not loud at all but with the radio off and at lower speeds I can hear it.
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I have a 2003 Volvo C70 that I've owned since 2004. In February, I ordered struts for the front with all the trimmings, (spring seat, strut mount, bump stop, etc) from FCP Euro. The struts were Sachs 553-058, which are supposed to be as good if not better than the original struts. I installed them myself, meticulously following the instructional video FCP publishes on YouTube. Installation went very smoothly. Afterwards, I noticed a rattle/knock coming from the right front when I drove over a bump or rough area.
I took it to a local tire/brake place that I have a good bit of confidence. After driving the car, the guy says, "You gotta bad strut!" Called FCP. They sent me a new strut. I installed it and sent the other back. Sounded a LOT better—for about two weeks. Now I am hearing the sound on both sides. I took it to a very reputable Volvo mechanic, I have used since the warranty expired. He drove it, confirmed the sound was not normal. We put it on the lift and he checked everything on the front suspension and was stumped. He said there was nothing wrong with my installation, no problem with the suspension.
Okay, FCP has an unconditional satisfaction guarantee, so I could replace these with a more expensive strut for say $50 more, but is the problem with the struts? I would hate to have to do this installation again and still have the same problem.
'03 C70 Convertible LT110,000 mileswell-maintained, great-running car
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And the vacuum pump was replaced.
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I bought a 2001 Excursion Ltd 4 years ago. A previous owner put Warn Premium hubs on it, which I would have eventually done myself.
I got stuck a couple of weeks ago and tried to use my 4wd. Nothing.
A friend suggested I replace the Transfer Case Motor as it can go out if you don't use it. I got that done today but I still don't have 4wd.
I can hear the transfer case shift and see the drive shaft spinning, but the front tires don't spin.
I thought it was the PVH solenoid, but discovered the Warn locking hubs don't use the vacuum and it has been disconnected/plugged.
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So I will be replacing the manual hubs on my Ford 2002 Excursion 7.3 diesel 4x4 with the WARN 38826. Just a few questions. Will I need to use the small snap ring? Also, do I have to worry about blocking the vacuum lines going to each stock hub? Any videos or step by step instructions with pictures for my truck.
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