Ford Excursion :: Rain Causing Misfires In 2 Rear Cylinders On V10
Aug 26, 2012
My 2000 Excursion, 6.8L V10 misfires when I try to start it, after a rain storm, and for the longest time, I could not figure out what was going on. After much use of a garden hose, to make rain, I found the rear two cylinder wells, on passenger side fill with water, due to a design defect in the engine hood that causes run off down that side of the engine. I visited with a mechanic, and was told that the hood design is common to a lot of the F series trucks, and the 8 and 10 cylinder engines are prone to the water buildup in the passenger rear spark plug wells. I am going to try to put a shield of some sort, around the two cylinder wells, to divert the water.
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Every time we get a hard rain, I end up with water on my carpet right at the rear of my Excursion. I'm thinking the weather-stripping has broken down. What is the source for it? All I can find is door weather-stripping.
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So I have never worked on the 2.5 before, I have an 01 A4 1.8T so I am used to VAG products though. The other day my neighbor had a CEL light, when I read the code it was a misfire in cylinder 2. Since it was a single cylinder I told him it was most likely a coil pack but asked if he had ever done plugs. He bought the car with around 60k and it now has 90k but he didn't think they were ever done. So I suggested swapping them out with the new coil pack. So he bought a (5) plugs and (3) coils since that is all they had local. Initially he just replaced the one coil and said the car was running great. Then when he had time he threw the new plugs in (Autolite Iridium don't recall #) and put the other coils in. After doing this the car went into limp mode and is showing random misfires in all cylinders. He pulled one of the new plugs and noticed that the dimensions of the plug appear different than the OEM plug.
The OEM plug has a longer threaded section so it would project into the cylinder further and the insulator on the new plug appears to have several rubber seals on it. Since he is getting misfires on all cylinders I would think it is plug related especially since the plugs are dimensionaly different, but he even checked the manufacturers website and they say these are a direct replacement. Did they change the plug design or is this a known issue with some cross references?
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OK. I have a 2005 Passat 1.8t fwd. Tiptronic. 105k
The symptoms i am having is random cylinder misfires on all 4 cylinders. I have scanned with vagcom multiple times and get the same codes. However, I have cleared the codes, and wen fpd a 60 mile drive on the turnpike. Not a single code. So everything is perfect as long as the car dissent have a chance to idle.
I have also driven the car while logging misfires and only get misfires at idle. Never while driving.
So much has been done to the car that is so hard to decide where to start. Ill try to go in order of events.
All this in the past 4 weeks by the way.
Took car to very experienced VW tech. Found out.timing was off by 3 degrees. So new timing belt, water pump and all. Started car, still had misfires. Noticed wetness on head gasket. And did a compression test. Very bad results. (I can't remember the numbers but they were way off from each other) So he removed the head. He said there was a crazy amount of carbon buildup in the combustion chamber. Everything was cleaned, head inspected for bent valves and everything looked perfect after cleaning. (this car has NEVER overheated by the way) He said it is very rare for a head gasket to fail on 1.8t's . So he did a leakdown test and turned out the piston rings were shot. So engine was rebuilt. All components cleaned of carbon, replaced all parts, bearings with new OEM parts. Pickup tube cleaned along with other oil lines. Turbo was inspected, and I was told it is on its way out but still has life. So that was let go for now. All reassembled and all hoses checked, combi valve cleaned, new k&n filter in stock airbox. So he told me the car is finished after all that. I was excited! Drove the car home 15 min drive, ran great. Parked in my driveway, put it in park and misfires came right back. Called him the next day and brought the car back. He looked over it and replaced the fuel pressure regulator with new. He said it seemed like a fuel starvation issue. Tested fuel pump and it was towards the low end of the proper operation value. So I had a high flow pump sitting at home brand new and I brought it down and put it in. Still misfires but a lot less than before. Also fuel filter was replaced. So next he disconnected the cat And found it was clogged. Replaced with my old Audi one, and it ran fine. And this is the first time the car idled good enough to get all the monitors set for emissions testing. So he was convinced it was fixed. Room it for a test drive and came back, parked And began misfiring again. So I was so sick of this thing at this point, I told him to replace the Turbo with brand new OEM unit. And it still misfires.
He swapped a known good throttle body into it and no difference. He also said that he started going around and unplugging sensors and the more sensors he unplugged, the better the car ran. He was curious whether the ECU was faulty. So he put an ECU from his Audi in it which had a ko4 file in it. He said it ran amazing!! So he modified an ECU from a stock Audi and that's what I am driving with now. Still same symptoms. But not as often. Also brand new bosch mass air sensor was installed as well. So this is as far as we have gotten with it and I am so sick of this car right now. But we are both determined to get this thing fixed! And after all the money I have just spent, I can't even get rid of it or I will lose a lot of money. It really sucks because I love the car and so does my wife. And out of the three 1.8t's that I own, I have never had any major issues like this.
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I am getting random misfires on cylinders 4, 5, and 6. Mostly on 6, less on 5, and even less on 4. Cylinders 1-2-3 show ZERO misfires. I am using vag-com to monitor these. Mostly doing it on idle, cruise seems fine but occasionally when shifting I feel it when engaging the next gear. It doesn't buck but I feel a little hesitation. Cruising and accelerating I do not feel it. Its very strange. A couple times during extended idling I have even gotten a flashing CEL. Fuel mileage has been pretty bad ever since I got the car in December. Average tank gets me 250-270.
I tried swapping coils with 123, and the problem stayed on 456. Coils are all new since I got the car. Plugs are fairly new (under 5K) and I pulled a couple to check, they looked fine and gap was about .028. I might try a new set but my gut is telling me the problem is some where else. I would like to verify/test grounds but I don't know where the harness grounds out.
I also want to get a vacuum gauge on the FPR, or check fuel pressure at idle. I replaced one cracked vacuum line, i am thinning there might be others since there seems to be miles of vacuum line on MK4's. Also have a new fuel filter to install, mine appears to be OEM and the car has 97K.
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My girlfriend's MkV Jetta 2.0T is throwing a code for misfires in Cylinders 1 and 2. I've already switched out the plugs and coilpacks with no change. I'm going to try re-positioning the coilpacks to see if the code follows. In doing some research, someone mentioned that it could be fouling on the injectors, which led me to BG44K. She has >215K miles. I figure she's gotta have some fouling that could be cleaned up. I have ~110K miles on my R32 - I figure it wouldn't hurt to do some cleaning in my own car.
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Recently bought a 2001. In the process of reading about this engine I discovered there is a some what regular breakdown of head gaskets causing water to leak into cylinders and oil pan, all of which is serious.
Given the vehicle is 12 years old and has 89K miles it appears it is in the age and range of where this leakage can occur. Any knowledgeable engine rebuilders that are familiar with this issue on the 4.2 have any comments???
1. Can this issue be avoided by replacing head gaskets now rather than waiting for future failure???
2. Are there new and improved head gaskets for this motor???
3. Does the problem occur on both heads gaskets?
4. Is that all that needs to be done or are there other seals that need replacement???
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Just replaced all 6 plugs after getting p0300-p0306 codes. Still getting all codes, always starting with p0305. Was told coil was bad cause the shop only was getting p0305, but I have all misfire codes. We have over 95k on it, have owned since 2008. Its the 2.7 in it.
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I'm getting random misfires on all 5 cylinders on my 2013 2.5L with ~4200miles. Sometimes the CEL will stay on other times it just flashes and goes away. I've gone to multiple dealers and none of them has done anything but clear the codes because "we couldn't replicate the issue," or "It's just rev hang/drive by wire."
What are the known causes of a brand new car misfiring? And what should I have VW look at?
When I mentioned that our family has a 2007 Eos all three dealers were chomping at the bit for me to bring it in for recalls I didn't even know about. This really rubbed me the wrong way. I've got one car that I KNOW is malfunctioning that VW won't do any work on, but the other VW is volunteering to work on!
I've got another appointment set for tomorrow after I get off work. How to push the right buttons or say the right words?
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Okay vortex here's what's happening in my 20th. About a month or so ago a CMP sensor went out, so I replaced that with a OEM sensor, on my way home my car started to misfire. So I took it easy the rest of the way home. The next day I started my car up and there were no misfires, drove to school, still no misfires but the check engine light was still on from the night before, after school on my way to get the codes ran it started to misfire again but then it stopped a few min into the drive.
Ever since then it has misfired but not all the time but maybe 1- 2 times a day then it would stop misfiring after a few min/seconds. My and my friend did the coil pack test and all the coil packs were good, yesterday (10/14/10) I replaced my plugs with NGK BKR7E plugs gapped at .028, my car is chipped with unitronic stage 2 tunning and it still misfired. I am going to clear all the codes and restet my ECU, but can you till do that with a unitronic ecu?
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so i've had my 337 for a couple months now and when i first got it i found 2 broken vacuum hoses that were causing misfires. once i got those replaced my CEL went off and seemed to be running fine other than from time to time when i started it up my idle would be around 1.2k rpms and then after a couple miles itd settle down to 750-800 rpms but it wasn't rock solid, so obviously there is still something wrong.
on my drive home tonight from work i was in the mood for some spirited driving but when i'd hit the gas i could feel some hesitation through the powerband at wide open throttle. when i got home i turned it off, and started it back up to see if it was idling funny and when it ignited the rpms jumped to almost 2k and immediately fell back down to 1.2k.
My thoughts are its either a vacuum leak again, bad/dirty maf, dirty throttle body, or a boost leak.
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Ok so I'm having weird issues with my big turbo R. I thought I was having misfires in low rpm range. Car was stumbling and just not firing on all cylinders ( just an expression but that's what it felt like) realized it was because of the esp. Ok no the main issue. Vacuum was sitting around 14hg. When I come up to a light or stop sign or just put in neutral while moving it revs it self ad vacuum will go to almost 0hg until I come to a full stop.
The rev is not a big rev only like 100-150 rpm increase. Also the throttle response is not there if I go to rev match down shift. Here's the weird part. If I unplug the Maf it runs super smooth 19-20hg vacuum amazing throttle response clutch chatter almost goes away. There are no cel with or without the Maf plugged in I have logs for both...
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After/during the rain, every other time my truck loses considerable power to accelerate. It's not consistent but happens increasingly often. As I accelerate up to ~ 50km/h (also when I reverse), my engine will shake the entire truck. Past 50 it "appears" to go away. Typically this will last up to 10 mins and will disappear and run fine again. The last time it happened the check engine light came on and went away the next day. After reading online, I've heard about the "COP" connection??
2003 Ford F-150, 4.6L Triton V8 XL, 2WD
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I have a 2001 1.8T Passat. I bought it used recently and have had tons of problems. I have been getting a lean air code for some time now and I think I recently resolved that. I had to replace a few vacuum lines, MAF, exhaust flex pipe (it was broken), fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator. The car was still running bad and throwing a lean air code (Bank 1) so I finally changed the O2 sensor and I think that did the trick. Now every time I start the car I get misfires until is warms up. I get misfires on all cylinders along with the multiple misfire code.
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I have 11 tiguan 2.0T. When I start it up is runs rough below 1200 rpm. The check engine light starts flashing. The codes are all 4 cylinders for random cylinder misfire. When I go drive it around the roughness calms down but doesn't go away and the idle will start jumping up and down. It goes to 1500 back to 800. Then 1700 back to 800. It had even hit 2400 once. I have changed the pcv about 2 months ago. I checked it and it looks fine. One place said maf. I cleaned it and no change. Running out of options.
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We have a 2009 2.0 Tiguan with approximately 60,000 miles. About 6 months ago, the check engine light came on so we took it in and found out the breather valve was stuck causing oil to enter the cylinder and causing misfires. Had this fixed an about a week later, the car acted up again. Took it in and removed & reinstalled the intake manifold. Both pricey fixes. The dealership said it was a problem with the 2.0 engine design. Now we have taken it in again to a local shop who is now informing us we will need to replace the intake manifold. He said the same thing about the engine design. Our concern is that this problem will need to be fixed on a fairly regular basis. We really love the vehicle but cannot afford the cost of this maintenance if it becomes routine and are considering trading it in for a Passat.
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I have a 2006 Jetta with a 5 speed manual transmission and 35,000 miles. The engine randomly misfires causing it to stutter or stammer. The check engine light is on and has been for several weeks. Occasionally the check engine light flashes. I took it to a local mechanic who ran a series of diagnostic tests (no vacuum leaks) and they recommended having all the ignition coils replaced for all 4 cylinders. They also replaced the fuel filter. I did so but the problem soon returned to which they referred me to the dealer.
I decided to take it to a VW specialist in town and they replaced the spark plugs for all 4 cylinders. They noticed that some of the plugs were black with a buildup and some were clean. The problem soon returned. The VW specialist also recommended that I take it to the dealership as they too had no clear idea as to what the problem is.
The car did suffer rodent damage in 2007 but was still under warranty so all the wiring that had been chewed on was replaced. I experimented using premium gas and regular gas. Premium gas seems to make the problem worse. Also, the misfires seem to lessen as the weather gets warmer. I would like to fix the problem to avoid any catastrophic failure but am trying to avoid throwing money away on any more guess work.
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I'm getting Codes: P0300-306 (Misfires) and P0356.
I have researched the definitions of these codes and see that P0356 indicates an ignition coil failure on coil "F" (which would be Cylinder 6?)... but how is it possible only one coil is failing but I'm getting multiple/random misfires on all cylinders?
I've looked at the wiring diagrams and the only place that I can see a "single point failure" that can cause such a thing, would be the ECM itself...
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I have a mk4 1.8t Gti. Recently I have been having issues with idle and boost. I read the codes and multiple random misfires in all 4 cylinders came up, idle control and the crank, knock, and o2 sensor came up. Shows that system is running to lean as well. I changed the spark plugs and wires, check the coil packs they where done about 1k miles so I expect them to be perfectly fine. When I clear the codes it idles below 9-8k rpms. I also noticed the breather hose coming out of the valve cover into the EGT has a hole melted into it, could this cause any of my issues?
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I replaced the coilpack from the dealer last Summer. It got better as it wouldn't even start for a while after it finished raining. However it has still been finicky even after replacing it. Which brings me to the realization that water runs down the fender panel and ends up on the ground cable located under and to the right of the battery. Am I correct that this would cause the same symptom as a bad coil pack? It seems simple...move the cable right? However should water be doing that? Cause this little sucker is not stopping anything. Just need validation I guess...get new hood insert?
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I have a 2006 Chrysler Sebring Convertible 2.7L engine. Replaced water pump and spark plugs. We triple checked the alignment on the chain and are sure the timing is fine. Car started right up. Now running rough idle and engine light comes on. Codes read misfires on 1, 3, and 5 cylinders.
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