My Radio shuts off at moments of high power usage. Like with the lights all on, blower motors on high, and having the anti locks kick in.
When this happens, I can watch my voltage gauge drop down to 12v or so. Was thinking a Capacitor would solve the issue.
I now have about 39k miles on 2011. Along the way I think I have added six 2.5gal jugs of DEF. About 1k miles ago I got the low DEF notice and added a 2.5gal jug and am already back down to 250 miles of DEF! I don't see any signs of a leak with the engine running or not. Dropped it off at the dealership this eve for an AM service appointment.
View 14 RepliesWhen I hit the brakes hard on slick surfaces, the radio shuts off. Black screan, and all. Hit the power button, the clock lights up, hit the power button again, and than than it turns back on. Where to look?? I was thinking a weak alternator maybe.
View 3 RepliesI own a Lexus IS250 which on the gas cap says you must use high octane gas. My question is, do you REALLY have to use High octane everytime you gas up or can you safely use mid grade? Say every other time without damaging anything?
View 11 RepliesAny downside to using (enabling) the Exhaust Brake (aka 'Jake' Brake) all the time?
I ask since there is a switch to turn this on and off, and I wonder why. My experience driving fire trucks in a previous life was that the Jake Brake was always enabled (I do not recall there being any way to turn it off).
I suppose that on icy roads, it is probably a good idea to not have it on, but that is all I could come up with. Am I missing something?
All my power windows aren't working along with my after market radio. All the fuses are good
View 10 Replies2011 f350 CCLB... I want to wire a hitch mounted winch for both front and rear usage.
I see several 2 ga wire kits with quick disconnects, but was wondering which battery to go to, and which frame rail side to use. The exhaust side kinda worries me due to heat. Although the drivers side has the fuel tank, and I have skid plates blocking the inside of frame, so it doesn't sound pleasant either!
Also, best method to connect to the battery terminals. It appears the battery clamp screw is smaller than standard and wont accept a large ring winch terminal. Is there a "post doubler" available, or should I consider removing the factory cable clamp and replace with a set screw block of some sort? Hate to have a warranty issue due to a non oem battery clamp?
For the limited use, I have consider just getting one of the wiring kits, and adding high amperage "jumper clamps" and running the wire only when used?
Today I was driving to my moms house. I had been on the road for about 2.5 hours. My ABS light came on, I didn't think anything about just figured a sensor was dirty or bad. About 30 min later the radio shut off then all the gauges bottomed out and the truck lost all power. I was able to coast/idle off the road. I called a local parts place and they had a replacement alternator for me. While I was at it I also replaced the battery. I started the truck up and hit the road again. I drove another 45min with no issues.
Does this sound right or am I missing something else?
We are having an air conditioning issue with our '03 6.0 Excursion so...
Since about 60,000 miles our air conditioner will Intermittently shut off (meaning the actual head or face unit in the dash is or does not have any power to it). Yes...I have checked fuses, and the possibility of any disconnected wiring and have found no issues. It will eventually just start working again without fail. (Note: Of course this only happens when we are in extreme weather conditions = River/Desert 110+)
Recently it stopped working - after an air conditioning service (recharge) so I took it back to the dealer in Arizona that performed the service. The advisor told me (without checking with a tech) that it was most likely a "head unit" that was out and it would cost about 1000.00 to replace. He also stated that he "sees this alot" and that they have replaced many.
When I'm listening to the radio and bring the car to a stop the radio shuts off when I turn the car off. Is there a way to get it to stay on until I open a door or something like that? It's kind of annoying if I'm in the middle of a news story to have to keep the car idling so I don't miss something.
View 17 RepliesMy radio completely shuts off in my Sante fe. But after several minutes it turns back on. Then off again, then on again.
View 3 RepliesLess than two weeks ago I had the fuel pump replaced and battery terminals replaced on my 2006 PT Cruiser Touring Edition (not turbo.) I have almost 90,000 miles and have had very few minor issues all these years.Car stalled while driving, towed it to mechanic, he diagnoses fuel pump failure. So I had him replace fuel pump, and while I was there had battery terminals replaced, since I've dealt with some pesky corrosion recently.
I've never had electrical problems with this car. So here I am a week after repair, I'm driving and hear an electrical pop in the dash, then the radio turns off and back on within a few seconds. Nothing else happened, I chalk it up to a fluke and keep going. Well it happened again yesterday! Exact same "pop" then radio turns off, comes back on in 2-3 seconds.
Both events happened during the day, so I don't know yet if my headlights had been on, would this "pop" have affected lights too? Perhaps.
So what I'd like to know is: when the mechanic was replacing the fuel pump and battery terminals, do those repairs involve him messing with wiring at all? Could he have left a grounding wire disconnected? I've read a little about the fuel pump relay, but I have not been able to confirm that 2006 PT Cruiser has a fuel pump relay. ? Any other theories on what could be shorting out, creating an electrical "pop"?
What could be causing my radio to shut down after five seconds? If it was the fuse, it wouldn't come on at all. I suspect the amp/power supply. What else could it be? I think all of my radio stations have been reset too. 2009 Hyundai Tucson.....
View 1 RepliesI have a ford focus (2004) 4cyl 2.0 L. One day, the car would stall only moments after the engine would turn. It would just shut as if fuel was ceased. I could however rev the engine and keep it running if I had my foot on the gas. After awhile, I tried again and it worked! Everything was normal, then it stalled after trying to start if up again. So this was intermittent at the time.
So, I swapped my fuel pump relay with the a/c one- and it fired right up! I'm thinking great, its just the relay and not the actual fuel pump. So went to the parts store, got a relay, and (me being me) wanted the new relay in the original fuel pump relay plug in the fuse box. As I was taking it out, a really really small piece of plastic chipped off of the plastic cover of the relay, and fell in one of the slots where you put the relay. How in the world?? I couldn't get it out. So I ended up putting the relay in anyway, and my car has the same problem originally (stalls), but now I have these check engine codes: p0460 and p0463
I also noticed, its running really rough when I hold the gas now. Could the plastic piece that fell into the relay be causing a strange short from my fuse box? Or, could it be my fuel pump this whole time? If its messed up because the plastic, Is finding a fuse box at a junkyard and replacing it feasible?
I replaced the blower motor resistor on a 2010 F150 with dual climate control where the blower was stuck on high.
After replacing the resistor, now the lower speeds work fine, but when placed on high speed, the fan completely shuts down. Replace with the old resistor, and it only runs on high.
How to proceed, or what else might be the problem?
2007 Grand Caravan SXT, 86K Miles
Factory Radio Clock, AM/FM, CD and Tape Player.
Radio and Clock looses power and completely shuts off and will not turn back on while driving. Miles driven does not seem to be consistent.
All other Electrical seems to work fine, overhead console, Wipers, Blower, Turn Signals, Head Lights, Instrument Panel all seems fine.
When car is shut off, Blower continues to run for a few seconds and then stops.
When car is restarted Radio/Clock magically comes back, clock is reset to 12:00 and radio is on AM.
Get some funny flashing of Idiot lights on cluster that to my recolection is not normal behavior. Once while my wife was driving it the Vehicle Theft Alarm Light came on when she started it up and it stayed on until she stopped and then started it back up when she left the store she was at. That has only happened once.
I checked the Battery Voltage while running and stopped and all seems normal. The Battery was new this December. I also checked fuses and there are none that are blown.
My cruise light will activate but won't hold speed, it shuts off when I tap the brakes. I did the self test and it went through complete. All buttons worked. After the test it did not show any blinks which according to the chart shows speed control switch faulty, I replaced the switch and does the exact same thing. The recall was also done.
View 8 RepliesI bought a new 2000 740il and the navigation system went black recently and the radio shuts off after 2 min. and you have to double click the on off to get the radio back on, then it shuts off again after 2 min. The navigation screen and system does not work and I did not disconnect the battery, lose power or get a jump, as many first ask. The dealer has no solution but to sell me a new car or a new system.
View 1 RepliesWhile driving 1 of 3 issues occur... radio will click off for 2 seconds, entire dash turns off for 2 seconds (car continues to run), or all electric clicks off and car shuts off. If left to sit for a few minutes car will restart. Will occur a bunch of times in one trip and then not for a week. Does not seem to depend on type of driving or weather conditions. Honda cant seem to figure out and until the yesterday they blew me off. Yesterday, the anti-theft actually locked out the radio, so at least they could see "something" occurred.
View 5 RepliesEveryone month or so, for a few seconds at highway speeds I will get a hum/drone that is very loud. Its not consistent on when, or where I am driving as it has happened 3 or 4 times in different areas but all on the highway and between 60-80mph.
It lasts a few seconds and increased/decreases with speed but tapping the brakes does not affect it. Even changing speed or switch gears does not fix the issue, but eventually if I drop below 60ish mph then speed back up, it will go away, but even that is inconsistent and I may have to do it twice or more for the drone/hum to go away.
I would think it would be a weird position the wheel bearing gets into, but all the wheel bearings up front have both between replaced in the last 10 months. It does not sound like its coming from the rear.
Summary:
-Tapping the brake doesn't stop the noise
-Changing speed makes it louder or quieter and eventually when slowing down significantly it goes away
-Changing gears at speed does not affect it
-Inconsistent - once a month at most
-Only lasts a few moments
-Only at speeds 60+
I am working with a friend on his 2004 v8 toureg. It dies at idle after a few moments. I thought it was the usual coil issue cause he said the thing was misfiring like a mother so i replaced the coils and got rid of the misfire but still died. Then i noticed that one of the plastic linkages was broken on the air velocity flaps on the intake manifold. Tried holding the flap open but it still dies. Is it possible that the ecu is shutting the car off because of the air code from the flap?
View 4 Replies