Ford Excursion :: Pushing Brake Pedal Create Swooshing Noise
Aug 25, 2016
So towed the trailer down to a remote lake side spot over the weekend, pretty bad dirt road with lots of breaking bumps. Now pushing the break pedal creates a swooshing noise, and a vibration under the hood around the master cylinder, and the power steering whines a little bit. Took it two several mechanics and 2 think it's the pump, one thinks it's the hydro booster? I tried to bleed any air out by turning the wheel all the way maxed and pushed the brakes, did nut really work, but I did notice that when pressing the brake pedal and turning the steering wheel at the same time, it becomes extremely difficult too turn the wheel, makes me think it's the pump because there is not enough pressure to do both?
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My new GX460 has 120 miles now, and starting today, I heard noise when pushing the brake pedal. After get the parking lot, I turned off engine, and used hand to push the brake pedal, I can hear same noise, which like a air or gas squeeze out. Seems not big deal to me, just like to see do you GX460 owner have similar thing or I need to to dealer again.
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Well my brake pedal is stuttering while pushing down. Have an abs light. Pulled codes. Left front sensor issue. Would this cause my pedal stutter? Removed #10 fuse in cabin and it stopped. So did the speedo. So thinking before I dive into a master cylinder or brake booster....replace sensor? So do I get the 4wd sensor or the 2wd?
1999 Eddie Bauer 5.0. AWD ....
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A few days ago, while on a road trip from CA to CO, I noticed a loud squeak from the engine compartment every time I pushed the brake pedal, no matter how lightly, no matter what speed. It even happened when the car was off. I have almost 60K miles on my '05.
When I arrived in Denver, I dropped the car off at a Toyota dealer for troubleshooting. They isolated the fault to a bad ABS actuator. They had to overnight the part, and spent a day and a half installing it. Sounds like a major project!
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I'm going to replace the rotors & pads on the X, was doing some research and read where slotted and drilled rotors actually create weak points in the rotor for vehicles this heavy.
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After replacing the engine, clutch and pressure plate. Where the brake booster hooks up to create a vacuum, as I now have a very hard to push brake pedal, if indeed that is my problem. The pedal will not go down more than one half inch.
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As everyone can probably tell, I migrated from the 6.0 Diesel section. A few weeks ago I bought myself a 2008 F250 with a 5.4. I do have several questions: It is a 2008 with 116,000 miles on the odometer
The guy I bought it from had replaced the engine in it. The tag on the engine indicates a build date of 4-21-06. It supposedly had 40,000 miles on it. He told me that the mechanic that installed it replaced the spark plugs and replaced one of the timing chain guides.
What model year would the engine be considered for replacement parts and trouble shooting?
I do hear, what I would describe from the old days as lifter noise. It is not a ticking, but more of a swooshing, RPM specific, that is slightly louder when the engine is cold vs. warm. RPM at idle is perfect at 640, fluctuating only about 5-10. It idles very smooth, hardly detectable.
I do not know what kind of oil was used in the truck, but the filter was after market. I changed it to 5W20 with a **** filter the day after I bought it.
The rear end is geared 3.73, and coming from a chipped diesel, this one seems sluggish. I realize this is a very heavy truck for the engine, but should it feel heavy. The "lie o meter" tells me my MPG is 9.4 driving in the city. Have not yet had a good chance to take it on the highway.
So, to summarize in trying to learn the 5.4. What would the model year be considered. What should I check with the swooshing/lifter noise.
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The truck in my sig. makes a clicking noise when it's in the park and I press the brake pedal down. The click is coming from somewhere up high in the steering column. It doesn't make the clicking noise in any other gear only in park. Might be normal but I don't remember hearing it before?
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I have a 2003 Eddie Bauer with the v10, the problem I am having is at random times the brake peddle will just fade away. It doesn't go all the way to the floor but pretty close. I had the master cylinder replaced and that did not fix it. I took it back in and had them bleed the entire system along with the analoc system, they tested the analoc system and said that was not the problem. Brakes did fine for about a week and has now started to fade away again.
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I just bought a 99 f150. Its in great shape only 65000 on it but there is a hissing swooshing sound when turning the wheel... not really any brake sounds. The truck has been maintained and I dont see any leeks in the ps system hoses. I didn't know anything about the atf fluid in the truck... and I haven't added either ps or atf fluid to it. I'm wondering if that is maybe something the dealer i bought it from did. or maybe one of the shops the previous owner did. Would ps fluid cause these kinds of sounds? Do I need a flush of the system.. How to do that.
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I have a 2005 Excursion 4x4 Limited 6.0 diesel. I had someone pull alongside me today and tell me my brake lights were out. Sure enough. I double checked and nothing at both lower lights and also nothing at the third brake.
So... here's the short version of the things I've checked so far:
1. no brake lights when pedal depressed.
2. running lights work fine
3. turn signals work fine
4. hazards work fine
5. brake lights DO illuminate when I press the brake button on my trailer brake controller
6. checked power to the green with red tracer wire going to the brake light switch on the pedal. 12 v present continuously
7. checked power to light green wire. 12 v present when pedal is depressed. 0 v when pedal is released.
8. checked power to tail lights (wish I had tried the trailer brake controller sooner, this step would have been unnecessary). voltage present (I think 10-12 v) when the running lights were turned on. 0 v when brake pedal depressed. I suspect now that I would have 12 v when squeezing my trailer brake controller button.
I was pretty convinced it was the brake switch at the pedal. But since I'm seeing the voltage pass through the light green wire when depressed.... I know the wiring to the lights are good because they work when pressing the trailer brake controller button.
So... Do I need to dig into the multifunction switch that I've been reading about? Does the power go from the pedal switch to the multifunction, then to the trailer brake controller? I'm really hoping that I don't have to dig into the column to check that multifunction switch!
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This may be my only chance to do a step-by-step ...
Tools Required : Fingers (preferably attached to hands)
Step One : Check diver side floorboard for cleanliness (people are going to see it in the pics)
Don't worry about passenger side. There will be no pics of it.
Step Two (fingers required for steps two through seven and ten) : Vacuum driver floorboard since there will be pictures made of it.
Step Three : Remove old, worn out brake pedal cover.
Step Four : Remove aftermarket brake pedal cover from ridiculously oversized Amazon box that's still in the passenger side floorboard.
Step Five : Take a picture of the old and new covers together to make fun of the old one.
Step Six : Install new brake pedal cover.
Step Seven : Remove new brake pedal cover and re-install right side up..
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2001 Ex limited 4x2 w/50k miles-- The parking brake pedal will not depress...at all....not even a millimeter. Feels like it is "locked".
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Bought an Ex last year with 200k miles on it. Started having issues this summer. First off, it will shake when pushing on the gas. If I let off the vibrating stops. Secondly, if I tromp on it, the speedometer drops for a second then comes back up and the "ABS" light comes on for that split second too. Thirdly, it will randomly die on me. This morning dropping off the kids at school, it died 3 times while backing up. Starts right up, but will just kill, no sputtering.
The Check engine was on, so I took it into Advance for a reading. Computer said there was an issue at the rear output sensor. So, I replaced the Speed Sensor on the rear differential last night. Take it for a test drive, and the check engine light is still on, but the Overdrive light on the shifter is flashing randomly.
Now, I assume the shaking and dying is Fuel related. I am ruling out the spark plugs as it idles fine (maybe I'm wrong). I purchased a fuel filter to replace that and hopefully it works.
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Why is there a sensor on the brake master cylinder? Most other cars and trucks I've seen have tied the cruise control into the brake light (and clutch interlock if Manual transmission.) switch so that when the pedal is depressed, the cruise control cuts out.
In the Ex, could I tap the brake pedal enough that the brake lights come on yet I don't trigger the pressure sensor in the master cylinder to cut the cruise control?
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The adjustable brake pedal on my excursion works fine, but the throttle doesn't and never did adjust. It just doesn't move at all. Why? Just a bad electric motor on the adjuster? Just curious if there is something common that fails before I delve into trouble shooting it more.
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I'm having an issue with my brakes. It was very intermittent, but seems to be happening a little more often lately. 99% of the time they work fine.
I'll try to describe. (vaguely) It will sometimes feel like the ABS is engaging, get a very hard pedal and some pulsing feeling. Sometimes just the pulsing without the hard pedal. It will happen at random times. Today it did it in the driveway going 5 MPH. No reason the ABS should think of kicking in.
I feel confident to rule out anything downstream at the wheels. I am leaning towards the master cylinder, but maybe that's wishful thinking. Afraid it also could be something sticking in the ABS which I assume is $$$.
Brake fluid is 18 months old with maybe 20k on it.
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So, just recently I noticed my car squeaks when I push on the gas pedal. I've researched up and down and can only seem to find that it is "Normal". It only happens at very low speeds (Stop and Go). I've read it could be anything from exhaust leak, DSG/ Tranny, belts or cv joints but nothing i've read seems to be exactly what I'm experiencing.
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I have a '02 Excursion with a 7.3L PSD, 238,000 miles. When I drive and say stop at a stop sign or light, when I transfer from the brake pedal to the accelorator and initially begin moving, I hear a slight "Thump" in the back. Could it be a sticky rear brake caliper? Bad U-joint? Sloppy ring/pinion gear? Just put AMS oil in the rear diff but have noticed slight shavings on the fill plug magnet.
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While pushing the gas pedal for acceleration from stop I feel the engine grunts more and then on its smooth. I don't have any lag in acceleration the car moves well. The car is 2008 Sonata 4 Cyl. the mileage is 137000. Is this normal for this mileage or something wrong. When I asked the service center guys, they replied they don't find any issues and everything is fine. It might be due to the mileage on the engine.
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M/T 2010 Sonata. I'm just out of warranty at 102,000 mi. No issues before with clutch. I noticed a clicking or crunching sound when pushing the clutch pedal down. I took a gander and noticed the pedal was traveling farther than it used to because there were indentations in the carpet. So this happens for about 3 days. Then I start the car and cant get it into gear. If I shut it off, it easily goes into gear and I can drive. Usually it is ok after that point but is getting worse. Mechanic briefly tried to bleed it but the pedal stayed on the floor. He was able to get it to its original problem but said if he replaces the master & slave cyl then might as well do a new clutch. Because I had no slippage, no pedal issues or anything prior to clicking. Is 102k miles and 6 years usual time for these components to fail?
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