On my Ex, the power point on the dash stays on even after the car turns off. This leaves anything plugged in powered on permanently. Is there a way to have it turn off with the ignition instead of always being hot?
View 7 RepliesStays open all the time. I'm guessing there is a spring somewhere that closes it. Is there a parts breakdown I can look at? I've looked around some but haven't found anything that looks related to this. 1997 F150....
View 1 RepliesI own a 2002 excursion and my dash light for door ajar stays on, I pulled all of the contacts off the rear doors and hatch and found that there are no electric hook up to what I thought would be the contacts i needed to be looking at. So what relays the signal to my dash that the doors are in fact closed?
View 14 RepliesOk so i have an 02 F350 7.3 with 89k on it ... Ive had the truck about 2 years now and ever since i bought it the ABS light has been on. So finally i got to scanning it and codes popped up for the front speed sensors and the rear speed sensor. So i went ahead and just put all new MOOG hub assemblies in the truck which come with the speed sensor already in the them and i also replaced the rear speed sensor, which was difficult!!! Becuase the bolt was seized and i ended up have to drill and tap a new one and even then the sensor seats in the hole in the diff but doesn't seat flush with the housing if you really tighten it down, and it leaked a little fluid at first but i ended up loosening up the bolt a little to make it seat better and then i put silicone around the bottom of the sensor and it stopped leaking... Anyway I've fixed both the code issues and cleared them, BUT, the rear speed sensor code pops back up immediately after clearing it and the ABS light on my dash stays lit .... Idk what to do at this point because I've fixed everything and it still pops the code for the rear sensor, I just want the Light on my dash to go off thats all ! ...
View 6 RepliesAfter about a 5 mile drive my '05 6 cyl Santa Fe always smells hot. The temp gauge needle always stays mid point. Coolant is good and is changed regularly. No oil in coolant or coolant in oil. No cracks in recovery bottle or hoses. All hoses tight, has been pressure tested and is ok. No heater core leak, no visible leaks anywhere in the engine compartment or under the car and no green patches on the radiator. After about a week of driving the recovery bottle level is down about 3/4" but the radiator is full to the neck. Where the coolant is going and how to locate the source?
View 5 Replies2-3 times a month the yellow TPMS light with exclamation point comes on, blinks about 10 times, and stays on steady. It's been doing this pretty consistently since I got the car, with one exception. I have a separate set of wheels & snow tires for winter and those have their own sensors. When I had those on the car for 2 months, I never saw the TPMS light. As soon as I put the OEM wheels back on, it lit again.
So finally I went to the dealer today. I figured it was a bad sensor. Naturally the light wasn't on when I got there. They scanned it and saw in the history a communication failure with all four wheels. They called Hyundai, then came back and told me that electronic equipment that I'm driving past can set it off. They mentioned banks & cell towers, among other things.
I don't think this is my issue. I travel the same route every day. The light comes on intermittently, sometimes when I'm on a rural highway away from any electronics. And I drive by plenty of banks and cell towers without it coming on.
So they didn't do anything for me. I'm at 43K. My concern is once I hit 60K and the warranty is done, if the TPMS brain croaks, I'll be on the hook for it.
I have a 2001 ex. 4x4 6.8 v10. I have been having vacuum issues and brake issues lately. My front brakes seem to be sticking, some times they drag some times the don't squeeze when I step on the brake causing uneven wear and pulling when I stop. Also feels like I have no power assist. I also have a vacuum issue with the auto setting on the hubs, they don't engage I have to manually lock them and sometimes my a/c stays on defrost. And my cruise control doesn't work, the light comes on and love done the self check but it doesn't show anything is wrong. Could I have a bad brake booster?
View 5 RepliesYesterday while running errands the exclamation point on the dash illuminated along with the ABS and VSC indicators. I haven't had my Prius for very long but I kind of expected it to happen at some point as I had done the test a few weeks after I bought it and found the resting voltage wasn't all that great but it wasn't causing problems at the time. Time To Replace The 12 Volt Battery...
View 16 RepliesI have a 2009 Prius Touring with about 55,000 miles on it. Had it regularly serviced last Thursday at the Toyota dealer/service center, and they said it needed to have the coolant flow control valve replaced due to sticking - so I agreed and they did it under warranty.
On Friday afternoon, I was driving out to the desert and about 50 miles into my trip, the red triangle with exclamation point symbol appeared on my dash, and the word "Problem" beeped on my screen. Then it went off, and then back on a few minutes later. Then it happened again and the high coolant temperature warning light came on the screen...and then went away. I turned off the A/C and opened the hood to check for steam or heat, but there was nothing. Since I was far from my destination, I called the closest Toyota service center and promptly drove there, but the light was off when I arrived. They said they checked everything out and ran the codes, but nothing came up.
When driving home on Sunday, the car did the same thing - Problem Triangle and High Coolant Temperature warning light on and off for varying amounts of time and with no correlation to how fast I was driving or how hard the engine was working. I left the A/C off the entire time.
Today, the car did the same thing after driving for about 10 miles. I brought it back to my regular service center, they ran codes and checked everything out...but they cannot find anything. They said they can't determine anything with the light off, but it doesn't stay on consistently so it's nearly impossible to bring it in with the light on.
I've had this happen twice: Foot on Brake, press start, car powers up. RED Triangle with exclamation point on dash. Message on MFD screen says something like "Transmission not properly engaged, move vehicle to level area and press Park"
I can't move it anywhere because nothing but the electrical system works. I can't even turn it back off.
Toyota tells me have it towed. They send "their guy", who is also the area AAA guy. Tow truck driver says he can't tow it because it won't go into neutral. So he jumps it...car shuts off when power is pushed. Push power again. Car starts fine.
Drive to Toyota. They keep it all day, do all kinds of diagnostic tests, tell me there's nothing wrong. I ask if it's the battery, they say it tests fine, but they'll replace it if I want (of course they don't keep it in stock and have to order it).
The car did the same thing this morning, but I was able to turn it off & restart. (That makes it #3)
My Truck Ran out the day I brought it home with the trip meter saying I could still go 50 Miles. I thought the pickup was broke in the tank but when dropped the tank it was folded like an accordion and full of crud. I put a new one on and hutch modded the pickup.
So the Light cam on last night and I reset the trip and have a 5 gallon can of Diesel in the back. When it ran out I put 5 gallons in and the light was still on.
So the ABS dummy light came is on, why? Stays on while driving, however as it recently snowed I got on the brakes and the ABS is still engaging? Is this just a bad sensor on the hub?
View 5 RepliesMy inside dome lights and running board lights used to turn off after 30 seconds or so, after closing the door. I noticed this evening, they are staying on for 10 to 15 minutes before shutting off. I thought maybe I left the inside rolling switch on next to the headlight switch, but that was not on. I washed the vehicle earlier and dried out the contact points for the rear window and barn doors using WD-40 and wiping that off, as I noticed they had a little water around them after washing. I have washed the vehicle a few times before (had it only 3 months) with no problems until now. Lights are still staying on an extended period of time.
View 3 RepliesWhat the code "32" means for the airbag? Lately my airbag light on the dash will blink 3-2 for several cycles then stays on solid til I shut down the truck.
View 12 RepliesI ordered and replaced all the LEDs in the car and the license plate LEDs as well. Now I got that damn orange bulb on my dash. Anyway to clear it?
View 4 RepliesI ve been noticing that the alternator isn't charging correctly, or at least it seems like it. We drive short trips sometimes two times a day, a mile or less. One day, night actually, I noticed it started to not turn over with it's usual enthusiastic sound. When the batteries get discharged to a certain point, the voltage at idle will be less than 12 volts. If I rev the engine for a bit, the volts jump up, but at idle it drops back to 12 or below. Seems to me that it should be at least 12v or above if the batteries are discharged, and more towards 12.5ishV if the batteries are fully charged.
After I put it on a 6A charger overnight, the voltage upon starting is above 12, sometimes over 13. But if the batteries start to dwindle down from short trips, the voltage drops to 12 or below at idle.
I did install the smaller pulley a few years back, and that worked massively. I couldn't get 12V at idle before installing the smaller pulley. But now it seems like I'm back to that same situation before installing the smaller pulley.
So, I m guessing that a alternator bench test is in my future? The batteries are fairly new, tho they have been down to nothing at least twice from boneheaded moves by yours truely!
And, I'm speculating that this charging situation contributed to the recent FICM replacement that I went thru.
I've recently brought her back to life after a couple months of delayed loving due unforeseen reasons. And now the fuel gauge is completely under the E marking! I'm fairly smart and have looked some things up from other forums just trying to get a one on one response of that makes sense. "If were in the military you will understand" please break it down Barney style!! Not saying I'm dumb just want a good understanding
View 10 RepliesI blew 2 fuses the other night, one in my power point and one in my lighter. I was using my ipod in the lighter and my beacon light outta the powerpoint. i changed them both (20 amp) and the lighter is fine but the power point keeps popping. What the problem might be? I would take it right to ford but unfortunately my warranty expired 9 days ago...
View 12 RepliesThe air bag light in the dash came up, and stays up. I checked for connections under the seats, and tried the battery disconnect thing. N/G. It's my son's car, and until he brings it in to get the code read, is there anything I can do in the meantime?
View 4 Replieshey there, new to your forum , been reading alot here , i have a 1999 f 250 super duty, frame was rotted, so i found a 2003 frame with motor , trans , transfer case & both axles , put my cab on it with the 1999 pcm , having trouble with low power on take off , shudders , poor shift points , at highway speeds , turn signal on , the speedometer will pulse same as blinkers, new head gaskets , timing chains , replaced trans with the old 1999.
View 7 RepliesAfter spilling coffee down emergency brake lever the airbag light intermittently stays on. OBD showed no codes.
Found a couple of recalls that deal with airbag problems. One messed with the wiring harness under neath both front seats. The old wires hung down to low. The 2nd added a cover to not allow liquid to get on the connector/airbag electronics. The airbag electronics connector is directly below the emergency handbrake lever.
My nephews 2002 had the carpet extended over the connector/airbag electronics and that was suppose to protect the connector from getting wet.
Found sticky coffee on connector/airbag electronics.
Used screw driver to pry up on console tray. Then removed 3 screws on both side of console. Disconnected battery then used contact cleaner on connector and electronic module. Took plastic lid from 42oz round container of oatmeal and used double side tape to secure over connector/electronic module.
Airbag light is off and connector/airbag electronics has better protection from spills.