Ford Excursion :: Pinging / Spark And Knock Under Load At Higher RPM
Apr 10, 2017
So we finally found a travel trailer and picked it up yesterday. It is a 2008 Jayco 29A. Fiberglass with aluminum frame. 5345 dry weight, so shouldn't be too taxing on the Ex, but we towed it through parts of the NC mountains to get home and on steep grades it would downshift to 2nd gear and I would hear what sounded to me like pinging from the engine.
As far as I know the plugs are original, so should I just go ahead and replace them, or there also a possibility that this is just the notorious exhaust manifold leak? If all exhaust manifold bolts are still intact, is there a good test to know if it is the exhaust? No engine codes were thrown. The truck has 72k miles on it now.
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Had it before, code p1401. Changed out dpfe and it worked for 6 months. Now spark knock again. Now though I have no codes though. No vacuum leaks that I can find. New egr from before I had the problem. I applied vacuum to the green hose and it stumbled so the ports should be ok. Snytime I go above 3000 rpm i get the pinging. I replaced the dpfe again and no difference.
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My 2001 Corolla w/80k developing a considerably loud spark knock/engine pinging noise under acceleration. It throws no codes but pings like crazy and it never used to. It's happened gradual over a long period of time. I've cleaned the throttle body and have done all regular tune up items with no improvement. It doesn't ping at all on 93 octane, does some on 89 and terribly so on 87. Why is this? Does the 93 octane just act a a richer mixture of fuel to alleviate the ping? Should this sign point me in the direction that it's definately a lean issue causing the pinging?
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I have a 04 5.4 w/ a whipple supercharger. truck has 104k miles. Has a misfire in cyl 4 (p0304, p0316) And spark knock.. I've changed the plugs, coil on cyl 4, fuel filter, and today the o2 sensor(pass side upper, bank 2??). I've ran tecron injector cleaner threw it, and always used Chevron 90 octane. (highest in Alaska)
The noise only happens when under load, or accelerating with more then half the throttle. doesn't happen when i slowly get up to speed. What I could do next? About to take it to the dealer to run a full diagnostic test on it.. Also, does not hesitate or bog. drives normal just with that noise
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03, 2.3 duratec, 163k, new timing chain, plugs (AP104), wires and intake. cleaned MAF, air filter, and ran two cans of sea foam through the intake and its still pinging. its driving me up the wall. truck runs perfect but seems to idle slightly higher and take longer to come down to idle after I got the timing chain and plugs/wires done. I've sprayed starting fluid around on top of the engine looking for vacuum leaks but found nothing. What should I try next?
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2012 F150 5.0L ... Running the stage 3 motorsports Tune on the SCT X4 device ... Noticed higher gear while going up a hill the motor is Pinging. Running 89 Sunoco fuel for two fill ups in a row and I have the 89 Performance tune loaded. It would not surprise me if the Gas station is selling 87 for the 89 Price!
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My Jetta wagon with 131K on it has a ping when I accelerate hard. I know it's not bad gas, but probably a carbon buildup. I've done a few seafoams that had some effect, but not much. I'm gonna do the water spray/steam next. Which components are prone to carbon buildup in these gassers that would cause ping?
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I have a very annoying problem with my new (to me) 2003 Passat, when warm it tends to ping under what i would consider normal load, it's more apparent after it changes gear (auto) and also if you are traveling down the road you give the gas an extra tickle.
It soon shuts up but pinging is not a good thing any time. The car has 45000 miles so is barely broken in.... It also suffers from what i consider to be a lazy transmission which tends to make it a little worse.
I am using the recommended super grade of fuel and have tried different fuels to see if it is biased.
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I have a '94 Mazda B3000 3.0L V6. The engine finally gave out at 244,000 miles. I had a used motor installed with approx. 110,000 miles on it. I now hear a knocking sound only when the engine is under load (in gear and accelerating). The knocking is not present while revving the engine while in park or neutral. The transmission was rebuilt last year about this time. I have described this problem to several respected mechanics and they don't know what it could be. What could cause this condition?
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I have a 2006 Ford F150, king ranch, 4x4, super crew 135k miles. I bought the truck and shortly after noticed the miss under a load at 40-60 mph while in OD, or at higher RPMs at WOT, but never a CEL. Well 3 months went by and I couldn't take it anymore so with lots of research I decided to change the plugs. Ran seafoam through 2 tanks of fuel prior to this job to break up the carbon in hopes of none of the plugs breaking.
All 8 plugs came out with no issue and I replaced them with the Motocraft SP 515s (old ones were very nasty and brittle, most likely the original). I put copper anti seize on the end that goes through the channel in the head, however none got on the end near the electrode, and also on the threads. Put it all back together and it had the worse misfire an pretty much not drivable....flashing CEL and codes p0308, p0355, p0356. So I decided to buy 8 new coils as well, got all 8 of them on and now the truck is drivable but the miss is still there (no CEL).
Feels like maybe just one cylinder and I believe I got it pin pointed to cylinder 8. I put a vacuum gauge on it and unplugged the injectors 1 at a time and cylinder 8 is the only one that there is no change while unplugged. So I switched out the coil thinking maybe I got a bad one, still does it. My COP electrical plug has 12v Constant and also confirmed with an led it is getting signal. The injector is ticking or pulsing as i confirmed with a mechanic stethoscope. What am I missing????? Today when I get off I plan pulling the spark plug, checking for carbon tracking, check compression, check actual visual spark, and pull and clean the injector.
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I've got a 97 truck, broke the crank, swapped in a motor from an 07. Heads down is 07, intake up is 97. had heads planed and a valve job with new seals done. Left it alone from the rings down. Got it in this weekend, running today. Ran it in the driveway with no load for about 30 minutes, top end was noisy for about 5 minutes till the top end got good and oily (I'm assuming). Purred like a kitten, sounded real smooth. Took it for a drive around the block, heard the clatter in the video below. It's almost always there when driving. Brought it back, turned it off to check oil, it was a quart low. Added oil, startup was VERY labored with a real hard knock in the bottom end. Ran like poo till I gave it some throttle for a couple seconds, then it cleaned up and idled well. Let it run for a couple minutes, turned off and let it sit for a couple minutes then started back up, same thing. Very labored with hard knocking.
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My 4.6 explorer has a spark knock noise when hot. When the engine is cold or on cold rainy days it does not make the spark knock noise. I have tried higher octane gas and octane boosters but it does not seem to work. Check engine light is not on and there are no codes. Could I have a bad egr valve or knock sensors with no codes...
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I recently replaced the plugs & wires on my '97 3.0L XLT automatic, and now I'm hearing some pre-ignition (spark knock). Only happens under light load, as in climbing a slight grade on the highway. No CEL, no codes on my code reader. Was not happening before I did the work.
The plugs & wires I removed were the factory originals (AWSF32P & PG, 3 of each), truck only has ~85,000KM (~50,000 Miles) on it. Well maintained, & only used occasionally. The only mod from stock are the wheels & tires, I'm running 215/70 R15 instead of the stock 225/70 R14, the difference in the tire circumference is minimal.
The gap on the old plugs was just over .050", no evidence of any fouling or other problems. The new plugs are Autolite XP104 Iridium, which is what the Autolite catalog calls for. Plug gap was checked & set to .044", midway in the range called for by Ford (.042-.046).
I realize that the narrower gap on the new plugs will cause a slight advance in timing, and I have done a computer reset/relearn as per Paw Paw's instructions. I'm stumped.
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My 2012 Accent's 1.6L GDI engine has developed an engine rattle when under load and warmed up.
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Have a an 11 f350 6.2 gas throwing p0171 and 0174. Driving the truck it has spark knock pretty bad. Ive parked it at this point. Its a tow truck so I need it fixed and back on the road. I've checked the hoses going to the pcvs they appear to be ok.... Also upon starting the truck it just sounds weak.....
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I can't figure if it's a TB issue as I've just had it replaced or a mount problem. I only get the knock on biting point idle and pull away under load. This noise is driving me insane.
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Coolant temps getting much higher than oil temps under load. Is there any problem that could cause this other than a bad temperature sensor? Reading temps with an Edge CTS 2 monitor. Think I'm going to hook up a mechanical gauge in the morning and see what it shows.
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I have a 2006 GMC 1500 4x4 just under 100,000 miles on a GM crate engine, 266,000 on truck, runs great no loss of power, no drop in MPG. sill get 17-18 around town on 87. If I put 90-91 gas in when pulling a load I get 18 all day long. So were is the problem? I am getting spark knock. I have tried diffrent gas, just put in plugs and wires. Old plugs looked good. No Cel on, No codes. It happens when I am flat roads and going up hills. I did get to go away for 1 tank when I switched gas stations,but now all brands of gas do it. This has been going for 3 mo's. One more thing it all started after I made a 800 mile round trip puling a trailer ( just under 5000 lbs on trailer 2 axle enclosed). On that trip as always do I used 90-91 gas.
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I got the APR ECU Tune in June along with VW Racing air intake. Car runs great except... the engine is knocking under full load. The guy who did the install heard it right away but I just thought he was trying to up sell me. He suggested new spark plugs.
Well it's two (three?) months later and I've come to accept that I can't drive it in the 91 program anymore (I paid extra for the ability to switch programs - lucky!!). I was switching back and forth between 91 and stock and I can hear the difference.
Are spark plugs the likely fix, and how do I choose the right ones for my Mark VI Golf R? "one step cooler"??
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Well mine was. Checked all vac lines, 4wd was fine, tested with vac pump tested ok. So first I replaced the canister. Nope, actually happened more often. Pulled the 4wd solenoid that's mounted on the inner fender, rusted and split just above where the vac lines connect. I capped them and now my a/c is perfect, 4wd is out but for now I can live without 4wd.
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2003 7.3 Excursion, 130k, stock suspension with newer bushings, etc.
Vibration when braking at higher speeds - not felt as pulses through brake pedal or shimmy through steering wheel - rather, a "body" vibration. Stops as soon as the TC unlocks. Being a diesel I can't tap the brake to allow it to unlock like on the gasser 4R100's - its locked until it shifts down into 3rd. Turning off OD puts it into 3rd but locks TC (no way to "single out" TC). Only felt when braking in OD (though I haven't tried running up to highway speeds with OD off/trans in 3rd) - braking is completely smooth at all other times/gears/speeds and at all braking force (light, mod, heavy).
Front and rear pads are good with even wear and sufficient material, lugs evenly torqued, tires good/balanced, no sign of a stuck caliper or rotor warping, MM manual hubs unlocked. No driveshaft carrier on the Ex's, just a regular two joint shaft with recent Neapco Gold u-joints, no slip yoke play. Trans filter replaced 4k miles ago, 6 +/- qts DexIII/Merc exchanged when I did the filter, fluid smelt and looked fine. Transfer case fluid changed about 5k miles ago. Factory LSD rear diff not serviced recently but fluid suctioned from fill hole looks acceptable.
I'm afraid that something is going on with torque converter/shudder but I don't get any shudder or slip under acceleration or at any other time and gear shifts are smooth. I know that the 4R100's can be sketchy, especially with 130k, but want to get suggestions before digging into it. I've also got a very slow hydroboost leak/weep but the power steering fluid is properly filled. Steering is smooth and proper, brake pedal movement is normal so I assume there is no air in the lines.
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