Ford Excursion :: Parking Brake Cable Snapped?
Dec 1, 2011
When I set the parking brake last night, there was a loud pop and the pedal suddenly went soft to the floor and would not spring back when I pulled the release. The pedal doesn't spring back up when I pull the release lever, but I was able to pull it back up by hand to get the dash light to go out. That works, but without the tension from the brake cable the pedal works back down and the dash light comes on.
When I got out of the driver's seat, there was a cable laying on the ground right under the front door. The cable snapped right in front of a metal cable joiner. What is involved in fixing this?
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I bought 2000 Ranger with rear half of the frame cut and welded.
The mechanics who did this did terrible job of putting things where they belong. I rerouted wiring harness and rebuilt EVAP lines, but cannot figure out what is the correct route for parking brake cable.
Currently some part of the parking brake cable is sitting on the leaf spring. It may also be missing some mounting brackets or clips. Looking for a picture or diagram showing parking brake cable routing?
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I'm having a hard time trying to figure out to detach the cable from the pedal assembly. The place where the cable attaches is so hidden by various plates, pawls and springs that there is no access. Also the whole assembly is put together with rivets so there's no easy way of taking it apart. Is there some trick to getting the cable out?
Also, I need to find out exactly where the cable goes through the floor pan. I'm in the process of fixing the rust on this. My 2000 XLT 4x4 and the floor pan and rockers were so rusted that there was no evidence of where the cable went through the floor pan! I assume it's supposed to go through the channel right next to the inner rocker but where exactly? A simple measurement from the back edge of the A-pillar is all I need.
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How to replace the parking brake cable from the pedal down to the connector on the frame? We got a 2000 F350 in the shop with a bad cable, and i never did one. And I don't really want to mess this thing up trying to figure out how to change it.
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So here it is, who out there with a 2012 SCREW can tell me how their rear parking brake cable is routed around the axle? The reason I ask is mine is routed under the axle and that just seems like a really screwy design. I would think any time the rear suspension was unloaded it could have the potential to engage the parking brake by the axle pushing down on the cable. My father has a 2014 and his isn't routed that way. I've also looked at a lot of pictures on the internet and haven't found any photos that show the cable routed under either. Is something off on mine, or is mine routed correctly and I just have not found any pictures that show it routed the same as mine?
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What is the procedure to remove the parking brake cable from the axle? It looks like the cable has a locking device like the fuel lines but heavier. How do you get that thing out of there without destroying it?
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I'm re-doing the parking brake as part of a rear brake job on my 2009 F250. I need to disconnect the intermediate brake cable at the equalizer, but am having trouble. I've got slack in the cable, but can't push hard enough to get the swaged cable end to move within the connector that's between the equalizer cable and the intermediate cable.
Is there a special tool or some trick to this? If push comes to shove, I can cut the connector (assuming I can get a replacement), but would rather not.
Also, any particular trick to disconnecting the cable to the parking brake lever at the wheel? With that huge spring between the cable bracket and the end of the lever, I haven't been able to move the cable end enough to disconnect it from the lever. Since I don't have the intermediate cable disconnected, could that have something to do with it?
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I'm working on an '05 F350 King Ranch dually, and I'm pretty sure the pb cable is stretched. I recently replaced the shoes in the pb assembly and adjusted the tension while I was in there, but it still barely holds. My next culprit sounds like a stretched cable, and I have a complete set for a new one, but I'm having a hell of a time getting the old one out. The link that holds the front and intermediate cables together won't pry open with any tool I have, and I've broken two drill bits trying to drill out the nub holding the front cable in.
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This is the third time or car has broken down in as many months. We had to replace the battery, starter and a battery cable. Now it seems like the accelerator cable has broken. Half way home the pedal kinda dropped and, whilewasn't flat to the floor, there was no resistance and jiggling it around caused no revving. The cruise control was still working fine, though. Bearing in mind how packed in everything is in the engine if this model, how much am I looking at for a fix? I just can't afford to keep pouring money into this car.
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I noticed the rear parking cable's one end hanging. Not sure how to connect it. Appears a part is missing.
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My left parking brake cable seems to stick. The parking brake shoes and springs appear to be fine. I have ordered a new left parking brake cable and need to know how to remove the old cable and feed the new cable to the hand brake lever. Looking for the brake cable removal procedure and diagrams?
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Just had a front spring snap on my front drivers side on a road trip to the cottage. Found a place one hour away that can do new replacement front springs. The question that I have is that he can get F450 equivalent springs a lot cheaper than F350 springs. I do plan on adding an aftermarket bumper at some point in the future. What should I order?
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So my 2000 Ex started showing the parking brake light as if the parking brake was on...however it is not. How, or what do I need to do to fix it?
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I've been having a problem lately where I'm driving down the road and the brake light comes on and starts binging. I stop push the parking brake and release it a few times, then the light goes out and I'm on my way. Sometimes when I first release it the light doesn't extinguish and sometimes it is never on. I'm guessing there is a switch somewhere for the parking brake that isn't working so great. Is it around the pedal or somewhere in the brakes themselves? Is this a typical problem?
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2001 Ex limited 4x2 w/50k miles-- The parking brake pedal will not depress...at all....not even a millimeter. Feels like it is "locked".
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Had my car parked outside of work for about 12 hours yesterday, and in the NYC cold front, the parking break must have stuck on slightly. When I started to move, despite the fact I'd released the parking break, I received a warning in the MFI that said PARKING BREAK FAILURE TO RELEASE. I pulled the handle again and heard it pop just a little more off. Everything worked great after that. If I hadn't received the alert I probably would have driven off with it on. I'd probably have noticed the hesitation and checked the break again, but the alert was useful. Some of the warnings in the MFI can appear to be a pain at times, but it's amazing how thorough a job VW has done monitoring the cars systems and giving real time information if something doesn't work. You just have to make sure you don't get info overload from it all!!
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So in order to get my hood to open, I have to pull the hood release lever in the cab, go pull up on the hood itself, then pull the release lever again, and pull on the hood to get it to finally pop. Is this a cable perhaps going bad? Or another issue I need to fix?
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I replaced the driver's side e-brake cable on my 99 F150 due to the cable pulling through the backing plate (I think the backing plate hole either wore or rusted out bigger). The new cable is doing the same thing and now I cannot drive because if you depress the e-brake one time, the cable gets pulled through the hole, then since it won't come back out of the hole, pushes the brake shoe against the drum and, thus, drag. I was thinking of trying to find a C clip to hold the cable out but it's iffy at best.
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1999 F-250 ... How does one replace the emergency brake cable? The cable in the '99 F-250 I recently bought broke.
The cable was sticking when I got the truck. I like to use the emergency brake every time I park. The previous owner(s) didn't use the emergency brake and the cable had frozen up.
I tried using it every time I parked. I could tell it was frozen, but I was hoping it would loosen up. It held a little bit when I used it; but soon it just broke.
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I've noticed my RR emergency brake cable's outer casing rubs hard against the RR shock, such that it's rubbed through the cables plactic covering & is going after the metal jacket.
It's a 99 4X2 4dr extra cab long wheel base.
Notice this on your Ranger, LWB model, or for that matter any wheel base Ranger???
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The problem is I haven't seen one for a recent (2011+) SD. I don't see anything that resembles a rear drum. They look like 2 huge regular disc brakes.
I live on a hill. My old man taught me to put the trans in neutral, autos and manuals, put the ebrake on and make sure it holds the vehicle, then put the trans into park or 1st gear. This way the weight of the vehicle doesn't rest on the transmission.
How do I adjust the Ebrake? It's ALMOST holding the truck, just needs a minor tweak. I don't see the dust cover the write ups described at all. The one that reveals the Star Wheel. Are they different on these years then prior SD's?
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