Ford Excursion :: Paint For Rear Hatch Trim?
Jul 12, 2015
Ok, rear latch handle, the black trim around it?
My idea was to wet sand it in place and repaint it. Does that sound like a good idea?
What kind of paint / clear coat to use on her?
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I may not be searching correctly...? How the back inside trim is removed from the hatch window. I know the handle has the two Torx screws does the trim pull out or are there clips? Don't want to break any plastic parts. I found how to fix the back lock. I found the back barn door trim removal.
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I'm trying to upgrade my speakers. I got the ones in the front and rear doors installed. I hoping there is a way I can access the speakers without having to completely remove all of the rear panels.
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Does the rear hatch come from the factory with a different key than the ignition? My key will not open the rear hatch lock, it doesn't even go in the whole way.
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So I hooked up to the camper on Friday, threw some gear in the back off the Ex and hit the road. 4 hours and a couple hundred miles later I set up the camper and tried to pop the rear hatch. It's a no-go. It appears that the passenger side latch is releasing but the drivers side is not. My tool selection is limited since I'm on the road, any tricks to get the hatch open? Probably just deal with it till I get home since I don't want the reverse problem and not be able to get it latched again.
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I've noticed that when I lock the truck, the rear hatch stays locked most of the time. I have to manually lock it with the key if I want my truck to be secure. When it does work, it doesn't sound weak. When it doesn't, it's silent. Where should I start looking?
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Weather is getting colder and I need defrost every morning. Rear defrost doesn't work, and I found this when I opened up the rear body panels
Driver Side
Passenger Side
I cleaned both sides on the loose contact with sandpaper, cleaned with alcohol, and then superglued back together. Will the superglue allow enough electrical contact for it to work? Is there a better adhesive or way to fix? I want it to fully cure/dry before I fire up. Hopefully in the morning my fix works.
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I think my rear window shocks are shot. Last week when the temps hit -15 they completely failed. Are these a rebuild-able shock or do I need to purchase new ones?
Why do I have a bad feeling that this will be an overpriced item????
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My friend who has two of my old Ex's and her silver '04 shut her hatch window first and then went to close the barn door and, well you know how that goes.
My question is, she has my old 2000 Ex for parts. Can the window be removed from the hatch itself or do we have to swap the whole hatch between trucks?
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The rear hatch on our ex, is starting to dig into the fiberglass of the barn doors. Paint is already gone, just white fiberglass. This wasn't an issue was first, however we have been opening and closing it quite a bit more than we used to. How to resolve this issue?
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So yesterday I tried to tackle this project. I soaked the latched in penetrating oil got it all loosened up were I could actually lock it with the key. So tried it with the key fob and no lock or unlock. So I pulled the actuator out and did the "tin foil" trick. Still wouldn't work. Didn't push the lock far enough to Lock the glass. However, it did move the latch. So I went down and purchased a NEW one from auto parts store stuck it in and whip-bang-boom it don't work either. As it don't push the lock far enough to lock the glass.
Vehicle 2000 X 4x4 w/ v10 Yes lock moves freely with little effort
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It's not the lock, it's the linkage. The actuator has been replaced and still can't lock/unlock it. Using the key is really tough to turn, but it will with enough force applied. Last summer I sprayed it with lube and it worked for a while, now we're back to square one. It's really clean, just acts like something is bent/worn.
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Since I bought the Ex last December the rear lock worked sometimes. The key cylinder wouldn't turn, but the actuator would work from time to time.
So since it is hunting season and I want to lock up the Ex when I am in the field I dug into it tonight.
I want to know how do I remove the actuator from the handle/lock mechanism. It looks like it just snaps on. I pulled the actuator back a touch and the arm feel off that drives the lock mechanism.
So after pulling the handle and trim piece, removing the lock cylinder and hosing it in PB blaster and brake kleen and more PB blaster I now have a lock cylinder that turns freely.
After turning my attention the lock mechanism and flooding it with PB blaster, I now can lock the Ex. That mechanism is not a smooth item! So do I need to remove the complete lock mechanism assembly to remove the actuator? Can I buy an actuator with a metal arm?
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About a year ago I put in a new lock motor and it worked fine for a while but has stopped working. Is it the lock motor or something else? It unlocks but won't lock. There is not latch indicator on the upper hatch so it stayed unlocked without me knowing it.
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So my GTI is going back to dealer tomorrow to deal with a few problems that are driving me insane.
First the hatch is rubbing against the bumper in the corners and has worn away the paint on both sides.
Then there is the A pillar trim on passenger side that has come loose at the top, also we have the rear lights that are letting in water on both sides and finally the start button is starting to fall apart and has cracked!!
I have owned 4 vw's from new and never encountered this level of shoddy workmanship. I can only put it down to new plant and new model, very annoying.
Purchased in June and has 12,000 and love it but these niggles are frustrating.
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So I saw these really cool Nissan wounded warrior project pics and get a little inspired to "army out" my excursion. The paint on it is checking/chipping real bad so I need to deal with it, and vinyl wrap is cheap enough so here I go!!
Problem is I'm having a terrible time picking something I can:
1) Desert Tan/Black combo
2) Tan Everything
3) Nato Olive
4) Just gloss / wet black the whole thing, murder it out
Here are some pics and some work in progress. I can't decide....
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I happened to look at the top of my 04 Excursion yesterday and found the paint cracking and lifting off the roof. So the first thing I did was to come look here and see if it was a common issue. I searched and found a couple threads about this issue from 2 and 4 years ago.
Apparently, the paint was applied too thick and that is why it cracks, lifts and breaks off. Some said they went to ford and ford has offered some type of discount on the repair.
But, that was years ago and I'm not sure if I think that ford is liable to fix this on an 8 year old vehicle.
I uploaded a couple pictures of the sots : Roof Paint Cracking - Picture
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I thought I was out of the woods on this. It looked like water was coming from the HVAC, and I haven't seen any moisture up front for a while. I did find a problem leading to the wet rear cargo area; there was a small crack in the paint on the passenger side gutter, almost back by the hatch hinge area. I noticed a pinhole sized area that appeared discolored, as though water had been involved. Sealed that with some 3M Crystal Clear sealant about a month ago, and it's been dry ever since.
Last weekend, it rained heavily, and I went out the morning after it rained and checked the passenger footwell again. Bone dry, so yippee, right? Nope. I start up and when I move, I heard water sloshing, then saw a small flood run down the carpet next to the passenger kick plate. I mopped up, but what could be holding so much water that I could hear it? Is there a tray that might be clogged under the cowl on the passenger side?
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I have a 2000 X that the paint is starting to flake/peel off on the door jams and on the inside frame of the door? It has lived it's life in Vegas and wondered if the heat maybe had an effect on it? It is now in the cold of Salt Lake?
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Ok, I'm stumped... I've pulled the housing out for the 2nd row dome/reading light and I'm trying to replace the bulb...
How in the hell do you separate the trim from the housing to replace the freakin' bulb?
I've almost broken the thing in half trying to get access to the bulb... My FSM doesn't give any indication how to separate the housing just that the bulb needs replaced...
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Have any of you tried to cut an access hatch in the rear of your truck to get to the fuel pump without dropping the tank? Am I way off? can it even be done? My fuel pump took a dump with about a quarter of a tank. I'm trying to find a work around.
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