Ford Excursion :: Paint Checking / Chipping Real Bad
Nov 19, 2015
So I saw these really cool Nissan wounded warrior project pics and get a little inspired to "army out" my excursion. The paint on it is checking/chipping real bad so I need to deal with it, and vinyl wrap is cheap enough so here I go!!
Problem is I'm having a terrible time picking something I can:
1) Desert Tan/Black combo
2) Tan Everything
3) Nato Olive
4) Just gloss / wet black the whole thing, murder it out
Here are some pics and some work in progress. I can't decide....
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The top of my cars paint is chipping off. Is there a way to stop the process from getting worse?
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I've got some parts of the pain on my reflex silver wagon that have begun chipping off of the rear bumper near the edge. I'm assuming the PO was trying to lift something into the back and didn't quite make it high enough...a few times. Anyway, the surface underneath the paint is black, so I'm assuming it's plastic.
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Problem with the paint chipping/flaking on the hood of a 2010 LE? I have three spots, about 1/16"-1/8" on my hood that have chipped/flaked and you can see the primer. I don't think that I have been hit by flying debris but that's not to say that it couldn't be the case. I'm thinking of mentioning it to the dealer when I go in for my 20K service just so it is on record should there be some future TSB/recall for a paint problem. Car has been on the road for 18 months.
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My 2013 Red Prius C started to chip on the door edges around 6 months after purchase. My guess is it has something to do with the extremely thin/light metal used to make the car and the quality of the paint. I've owned the car for 2 1/2 years now and the problem is only getting worse. The dealership says I'm the only person to ever have this issue and blamed me.
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It appears it is mostly surface rust and am looking for something relatively simple to fix it. I would prefer to use something in aerosol cans since it is small amount of total area, maybe Rustoleum products?
I will attempt to remove as much of the rust as possible with circular wire brush on drill but feel there will still be little crevices that I won't be able to fully clean.
I'm also interested in knowing what I should use to harden the surface to prevent the excessive chipping of paint in this area.
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Having problems with the paint chipping on the rear bumper? Dealer said on the phone paint is only covered if it rusts. Will bring it in tomorrow for them to check, but I'm not getting a good feeling that they will cover it. Car has only 3500 miles on it! Bumper shouldn't be chipping like this.
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I washed our 2010 Corolla today and was in the process of wiping down the rims when I noticed they all have this funny corrosion looking thing happening to all of them at the center of each rim.
The vehicle has scheduled maintenance coming up at the dealer so I am just going to show them the rims when I take it in next week.
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Seems like the black paint on the back of all our mufflers slowly but surely disappears. I'm guessing high heat - flat black (if such a thing exists) would be the way to go.
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On my Phaeton, I've got some paint chipping right below one of the rear tail lights. It is strange since this is not an area that would get any type of abuse, and I don't think the tail lights have been removed before. I am wondering if this is something that I could touch up myself. If not, should I get a dealer to look at it?
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Trying to figure out if my front leafs are factory or not. I assume so but they look extremely weak for a 9k rig.
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So Friday before last my ex laid down on me while i was headed to work. So I parked it in a walmart parking lot and caught a ride to work with a friend then had it towed home that evening. Problem i was having is it started running really bad, miss firing, smoking, and sounding real rough, but I wasn't getting any trouble codes. So after both uvch's, icp, ipr, icp pigtail, checking fuel for water contamination and pulling my hair out, i decided to check the oil and found it to be 4 quarts low. Talk about feel like a knuckle head.... While it was down it did receive a new water pump, a diesel site 203* thermostat, new billet thermostat housing, Gooch's Radiator Flush Procedure, and some fresh rotella etc.
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Ok, rear latch handle, the black trim around it?
My idea was to wet sand it in place and repaint it. Does that sound like a good idea?
What kind of paint / clear coat to use on her?
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I happened to look at the top of my 04 Excursion yesterday and found the paint cracking and lifting off the roof. So the first thing I did was to come look here and see if it was a common issue. I searched and found a couple threads about this issue from 2 and 4 years ago.
Apparently, the paint was applied too thick and that is why it cracks, lifts and breaks off. Some said they went to ford and ford has offered some type of discount on the repair.
But, that was years ago and I'm not sure if I think that ford is liable to fix this on an 8 year old vehicle.
I uploaded a couple pictures of the sots : Roof Paint Cracking - Picture
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I thought I was out of the woods on this. It looked like water was coming from the HVAC, and I haven't seen any moisture up front for a while. I did find a problem leading to the wet rear cargo area; there was a small crack in the paint on the passenger side gutter, almost back by the hatch hinge area. I noticed a pinhole sized area that appeared discolored, as though water had been involved. Sealed that with some 3M Crystal Clear sealant about a month ago, and it's been dry ever since.
Last weekend, it rained heavily, and I went out the morning after it rained and checked the passenger footwell again. Bone dry, so yippee, right? Nope. I start up and when I move, I heard water sloshing, then saw a small flood run down the carpet next to the passenger kick plate. I mopped up, but what could be holding so much water that I could hear it? Is there a tray that might be clogged under the cowl on the passenger side?
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I have a 2000 X that the paint is starting to flake/peel off on the door jams and on the inside frame of the door? It has lived it's life in Vegas and wondered if the heat maybe had an effect on it? It is now in the cold of Salt Lake?
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Problem is two fold. First......my grill "Ford" emblem is chipping and fading. Second....there is rust along the inside edge of the tailgate near the weep holes. I have been told the rust must perforate the area in order for it to be covered by warranty. Truck is pretty close to pristine condition and two service reps said rust is coming from the inside of the tailgate. Doesn't make sense to me to wait for the rust to get really nasty before it being covered by warranty. I bet a new tailgate cost more than that!!!! Hey whats the deal with the eroding "Ford" emblem??? Looks like the coating is flaking off and letting the blue paint fade away. I don't think this is normal but that too doesn't seem to be covered by warranty !! Maybe I should think twice about my next vehicle !!!!! Comments ??????
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I have a 2012 prius 2 with persona wheels on it. These persona wheels only have about 500 miles on them but are already showing random chips and they have never been curbed. These rims are not cheap and I'm concerned.
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I am going over this new truck I brought home not long ago. and I haven't picked a service manual up yet but I figure since I've owned manual tranny's before it's pretty obvious on the basics.
The fill and drain plugs are on the same side correct? I found them on the passenger side, figured the top one was the fill plug.. So I remove the plug and I get bathed in gear oil to the armpit and topcoated the driveway; Geesh the smell hasn't changed one bit.. I'm guessing the PO topped the fluid to the top of this transmission. Because I expected to stick my finger in the hole and either feel fluid or not. Not get a bath Unless I removed the wrong square plug.. I don't think I did.
What seals can I expect to be blown because of this if any? I haven't put many miles on it since I bought; it maybe a 100 total. I have no idea though how long it was driven though before I picked it up.
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How do you tell if there is water fuel drain plug check area ? Fuel always looks the same to me.
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My truck just had it's check up at the dealership. On the slip it stated ATF fluid on rear housing. The tech said "No big deal maybe take a better look and maybe replace rear gasket later down the road". So first where is the check hole as I know there is no dip stick plus I think you use your finger to figure level. How far up should it be? I go over my truck about once a month looking for stuff and would like to include in my inspections.
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