Ford Excursion :: P0720 Code - Output Shaft Speed Sensor
Jun 21, 2012
Okay, I have a P0720 code. I bought the Output Shaft Speed Sensor and read that it is on the back end of the transmission.
Need to confirm that it is on top of the transmission, near the tail end? Why are parts that go bad always in the most inconvenient places?
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I just replaced my starter and on my first ride after replacing it the X started to stumble a bit, and then would stall out at almost every stop light. It threw a CE light and I pulled the code P0720. I searched here and it seems most guys say this is a C.O.P. issue. If it is a bad C.O.P. would it stall like that?
I did have the battery disconnected but I made sure the terminals were clean and tight. Is this a coincidence or did I do something while changing the starter?
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I bought late 98 F-250, 5.4 G, 4WD. OHad to replace the steering flange because they messed up the ignition cylinder and flange. Truck didn't run for 4 years. 249K miles, no history available. Got the engine running, no DTCs. D, 3, 2, 1 barely moved the truck forward but, R hauled butt in reverse. Checked transmission fluid it was good and clean.
Came back to it a few days later it threw a P0720 (output speed sensor circuit) and I have no reverse, park feels like it wants to move, R is neutral, N is forward, D is forward, 3 is forward, 2 is forward, 1 is forward. The N is full drive. I cleared the P0720 code after it came up and it has not returned. The instrument gauges work but the odometer display is intermittent. Linkage? Fluid? Sensor? Wires?
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I had a rebuild done on my 2002 Accent. My question is now we get a code for the output shaft speed sensor. Would this have been replaced as part of the transmission rebuild?
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My hyundai 2004 sta fe awd 3.5 LX engine light came on while cruising dwn the freeway. At the same same time i heard a loud thud and speed went down from 65 to 40mph and a high idle. I drove it home and hook up the obd2 scanner and got P0720 suggesting bad output sensor. So I decided to buy new sensor from the dealership, put it in and thought it will fix the problem. After few days the engine light came on (P0720)again with the same clunk noise and speed down from 65 to to 40 mph at high rpm. Took it home, did some experiment by putting back the old sensor. I Connected the harness back, but this time I wrap the female connector with the electrical rubber tape and electrical vinyl tape. Problem fixed. No more engine light,transmission shift smoothly. I think the connector (harness side) to the output sensor was crack that's why its not making good solid connection. The rubber tape technique held the female connector pins tightly together. New part didn't do anything but it was a learning experience.
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I just recently purchased my first mk4 golf 2.0 after having a mk3 jetta vr6 for two years. I've been having problems with the car shifting (automatic) i put a code reader on it and came up with p0722 output speed sensor which explains why it sometimes shifts at 4500. My two questions are where is the output speed sensor located? and what is a normal shifting range for properly running automatics?
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I removed my drift shaft to get balanced since I have felt a vibration at 55-60 mph. After removing the driveshaft I noticed there is some play in the output shaft when I grab a hold of the yoke on the transmission. The play is a slightly up and down. If my memory serves me right that should not be. Seal is not leaking but need diagram of this yoke off the output shaft. I know in past on other vehicles there is sometimes a crush washer. Also what is the torque specification for that output shaft nut?
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I have searched and found a few threads of folks getting a p0720 code and truck revving and dying. Just wondering how to resolve the issue and what the cause was. I have an 01 ex with v-10
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Having this issue for a while. Finally have time off work to dig into it some more. 00 ex, v10. Intermittently flashes o/D light and shifts hard. I replaced 2 out of the three speed sensors. One at the output and the other on the axle. Only active code is the p0720 output shaft speed sensor circuit. Last weekend removed and inspected harness, did not electrically measure it tho. My question is: intermittent problem? I drove it today to see if it was still doing it and it drove like a dream! Haven't had the battery disconnected or anything, just sometimes it does it and other times it a smooth ride.
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Long time Ex owner. This is my second 2000, 4wd, Limited, 6.8 V-10. Just bought this one last month and after two weeks of local driving the following problem showed up:
1. Week of July 5 through 11: With vehicle cold (65*) started and placed in reverse to back out of garage. After slight movement engine stalled like a locked up torque converter or turning ignition off. CEL illuminated. Turned off ignition and restarted. Again in reverse had same stall. Third time no problem but CEL still on. Code is P0720 using "Actron Auto Scanner."
2. Erased Code P0720 (OSS circuit malfunction) and P0307 (Cyinder 7 Misfire Detected). Drove car approx 20 miles without incident. No stumbling, no vibration, no detectable misfire, shifts okay, speedometer okay.
3. Next day with vehicle cold, started to back out of garage and stalled with CEL illuminated and O/D light in shifter blinking. Recycled ignition, started and no O/D light but CEL still illuminated. Vehicle did not stall. Checked code and P0720 set.
4. Replaced OSS on tail shaft of transmission. Same stalling problem with P0720 set.
5. Replaced #7 COP w/aftermarket type to test possibility of bad COP because of earlier P0307 DTC. Same problem exists, first start of the day the vehicle will stall as soon as it starts to move in reverse.
6. Replaced rear ABS sensor. While doing so noticed the ABS sensor wire harness was rubbing the tailpipe and the split, wire conduit was partially melted. Inspected wires (2) within and both appeared okay. Safety wired the harness away from the tailpipe.
7. Let the vehicle sit awhile. Outside Air Temp 84*. Started, placed in reverse, moved a couple of feet and engine stalled and O/D light on steady. Recycled ignition and started again, backed out with no stall or warning lights. No CEL on. Drove 10 miles without incident.
8. Allowed vehicle to cool, started and attempted to back out of garage. Engine stalled, CEL illuminated and O/D light flashing, code P0720.
9. Sunday morning 12 July: 71*, Allowed vehicle to idle in P in garage for 10 minutes before trying to back out. Vehicle did not stall. CEL still on from previous day, no O/D light. Erased P0720 code. Vehicle operating normally.
10. Sunday Noon 12 July: 85*, Started, placed in reverse, backed out and no stall or CEL or O/D light.
After considerable research online at ford-trucks.com found P0720 is a common problem but not easily diagnosed. In most cases the gremlin is COPs and or deteriorated plug boots but in this situation the engine appears to run smoothly and the failure/errors only show up when the vehicle is moved in reverse gear after a cold startup. Once it stalls then restarted it runs fine.
Made a quick check of alternator for failed diode using DVM since I don't have a scanner. Checked okay for voltage and AC ripple. I do have an appointment on Wednesday with my local auto repair shop for troubleshooting. Will have them do continuity check between OSS and PCM and an AC ripple test. Does this sound like an electrical circuit problem or internal transmission problem? Want to make myself as smart as possible when I talk with the techs.
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I have a 2007 f150 sport. I am getting a 24 code on the airbag light and I do know that is Sensor output feed/return circuit open. What I do not know is where is this sensor located and what could it mean if I am getting the code...
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I have a 2001 Santa Fe GLS 4WD, I've had my Auto Transmission Speed Sensor replaced and will have the output speed sensor replaced to have speedometer/odometer and cruise control fixed. While having the first sensor replaced my mechanic noticed the Input Shaft Speed Sensor Connector (the plug on the wiring harness) was cracked. I've been looking everywhere for this connector. I don't want to buy the complete wiring harness because I've heard it is very expensive. I want just the connector. What is the part number of just the connector?
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Can I take off the output flange on the tranny and use a slip joint, with out changing the tail shaft?
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I replaced the seal the other day on my ranger because I noticed my fluid disappearing. Went ahead and changed the filter and fluid as well. Flushed the system, and I go back to my truck tonight and there's a huge puddle of trans fluid. And the output shaft seal is once again, up against the drive shaft. I've spent like $150 on trans fluid since Friday, and $1000+ to get the truck running again last month, so pardon me if I get edgy about her.
99 2.5 auto. I changed the trans pan gasket too. No leaks from it.
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I have a 2005 crdi diesel santa fe that i have a strange problem with it starts up first time no problem in the mornings and can drive all day long. However if i switch it off and leave it sit for about a half hour no way will it start again until it cools off. It will start though with a push start instantly!
I got only one fault code P0340 cam shaft sensor fault, i replaces sensor and made no difference. Is this a common fault???
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P0340 code appeared on my camry 07 said cam shaft position sensor was bad what other things can be the problem ? Also I just replaced alternator because car wouldn't start with out getting jumped once I replaced alternator it started up good for a couple of days then when I wanted to start it up it would crank then stop and crank again till it would turn on also car stereo would turn off while running and dashboard gauges would go off and would make the gauges go Dow to zero then it would go back to normal while still driving.
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I'm trying to replace my transmission output shaft seal on my 2wd and I can't seem to get the seal removed. I couldn't find anything to rent from O'rielly's or Advance Autoparts that would work. It's in there really tight ....
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I installed a JDM 2ZZ-GE engine and 6 speed manual trans-axle into my 2000 Celica GT.
I have ran into a interesting problem. I replaced the output shaft seals and now whenever the car is in the air and the suspension is unloaded (the drive axle is pulled slightly from the trans) the drivers side seal leaks a bit of gear oil. The drive axle is snapped into place. Nothing leaks when the car is on the ground.
I did reuse the old drive axles, which had a lot of miles on them but still appeared good and useable. I have been told to replace the new seal because it may be damaged, but I am wondering if it may be that the drive axle end is worn.
I have seen this with harmonic balancers for engines. They even sell a replacement sleeve for harmonic balancers so you can re-use the old worn one.
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My front diff appears to be leaking from the drive shaft output. it's not enough to leave drips but the skid plates are oily. Having the dealer look next week. 60k on a 2011 460.
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So my girlfriend got this car (2013 corolla s) a few months ago and we started hearing a funny noise, I thought it was a wheel bearing going but nope its the ouput bearing on the tranny, passenger side. is this common on corrollas? how hard is it to change? I have a tranny from an 06 corolla, are they the same? and could i just swap trannies if changing the bearing is too difficult?
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I have a 2001 Toyota echo 2001 210.200 km and my output shaft bearing makes noise and I cant know the level of my transmission fluid bcoz I don't have dipstick and i bought trans 75w90 oil os that ok and how can I add this?
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