Ford Excursion :: Overheating When Warms Up / Gauge Start To Go Up
May 6, 2014
Last fall I flushed and changed out my water pump, Thermostat, Coolant Temperature sensor, and coolant reservoir. My 2001 Excursion ran find all fall and winter long. This year I changed out the Fan clutch.
Problem: when it warms up and drive well for a while than the gauge start to go up and start staying its overheating. The weird thing is when I turn on the A/C it brings the temperature back down. When its in gear and running without the A/C it creeps up to almost the red. I cleaned the Radiator and made sure it was clean but it still does the same thing. On top of that, the upper hose (when the car is turned off) seem to colapse slightly.
Other than getting it professional Flushed I don't know. The coolant has nothing to do with the Radiator? I'm pretty much stump with it.
View 8 Replies
Advertisement
So a couple weeks back I'm on expressway home and I look down and and temp gauge is pegged out overheating I immediately pulled off and shut it down and towed to a buddy of mine's shop he flushed it filled it up w antifreeze and checked for leaks and couldn't find one. I drove it for about a week and got out to for a quick stop , Ex parked on a slight decline and came out to prolly half gallon of coolant on the ground..I limped it to my buddies shop as it was not running hot .. he has checked it out but can't find any leaks, even after having it run 30 or so minutes..
View 6 Replies
Wife got home from work the other day with no problems and then a couple hours later tried to go start excursion to leave and battery was dead. I tried jumping it only to find out that once the battery started getting juice in it the gauge warning lights started to illuminate. Wouldn't start with being jumped so put the battery on charge for a couple hours and still no go. Took the battery into napa and they tested it and said it was bad.
Put new battery into it and am still stuck with the same problems. Hook the battery up and no key in the ignition and the warning lights around the exterior of the gauges are lit up. This is all on a 2000 v10 excursion. Up until now we have not had any problems with this truck. Wife daily drives it with no problems.
View 14 Replies
My 1994 Chevy Lumina drives great when its in motion but when it warms up it will stall when your at a stop light. It does great at a quick stop, like a short red light or a stop sign but when I am sitting at a long red light it just stalls. It will start right back up but this is annoying. Recently the car radiator was replaced, so the car over heated. What could the problem be?
View 2 Replies
Well I have got a 2000 Excursion with v10 that I've been having some electrical problems with lately. All started with a no start issue and gauge cluster warning lights staying on along with fuel and volt gauges reading without the keys being in the ignition. Took it in to the dealership to get looked at and they are saying it needs a new fuse box and gem module put in it. Was also told that it is an obsolete part and gonna be tricky trying to find the correct one for my truck as it needs to be identical to what my truck has as options. Is there any other places out there making new ones or fixing gem modules? Dealership pretty much told me if they can't find a new gem module for it that the truck is pretty much dead in the water.
View 3 Replies
I drive a 2000 Ex V10. My truck has been having an issue at idle after it warms up, almost every time after it sits and cools down.
My problem is that once the truck warms up, it will drop down to 500 rpm's and will have a hesitation/miss/lope for about 20 seconds. When it does this I can hear the exhaust making a sputtering sound. On two occasions during windy rain it would hesitate while driving but then straighten up within a half mile or so and be fine. I have changed all the boots, cop's and plugs and don't think that is where my problem is.
What I can't figure is why it seems to hesitate/lope once it warms up! This problem not related to a failing boot, plug or cop?
View 1 Replies
I have an 05 Impala. When I turn the car off, the heat gauge stays where it is. When I start it up again, it stays there until the car warms up and then goes up from where it was. I have found that by turning the key off and on quickly several times it goes down each time to bottom. What can cause the gauge to stick like that?
View 1 Replies
Resurrecting my 940 TD after it's been sitting for a year and the temperature needle now doesn't rise as the engine warms up. Is there any trouble with sensors on these or should i be concerned about something else? It was working when I stopped using the car.
View 3 Replies
Normally, the temp gauge in my 4-cylinder 1993 Dodge Caravan stays a half-division below the middle, once it warms up.
Recently, though, it sometimes goes all the way to hot and then back down to the middle, taking maybe 5 seconds to go up and then 5 seconds to go back down. This seems to mostly happen after the car has been sitting for a long time (like a week), and when it happens, it only happens once, usually around the time the engine gets warmed up.
I also noticed this weekend that it would frequently go up a division or so and then go back down again, again, taking maybe 5 seconds. It happened maybe 10 times in a 50-mile trip, often (but not always) when going uphill.
I've checked the coolant level -- the reservoir is close to max. I also checked that there isn't an air bubble by loosening the radiator cap.
What this is? Thermostat? Fan (or fan relay)? Water pump? Faulty temperature sensor? I don't know enough about how the cooling system works to hazard a guess.
View 18 Replies
My 86 f150 will start great and run when cold, but when it warns up it won't start. I will turn over strong, but it just won't fire. I have replaced the ecm and the Icm. What else could it be?
View 6 Replies
I am looking at a 1997 F150 with a 5.4 in it, guy who owns it says if you drive it down the street the temp gauge climbs and then the truck goes into limp mode but if you check the engine temp under hood it is nowhere near overheating. Where I should start to look for a problem here? If this is too complicated I will pass on the truck, its not worth it to me to get this truck if it is going to be a nightmare. I have a 2000 with a 4.6 that runs great so this would just be a spare for me, but would like to have it because its in such nice shape.
View 1 Replies
1998 f150 4.6 4x4 auto 180k .... Runs 100% other than a strange and inconsistent overheating issue.
On cold startup truck will warm up. Then the temp gauge drops to practically 0. After 15-20 seconds gauge shoots up to max and then falls back to normal after 15-20 seconds. Then it'll go back to driving normally. At some point it pukes.
View 6 Replies
i was on my way to work today -10-degree weather and i noticed my temp. the gauge was slightly above 190, and it steadily climbed into the red approx. 10 mins while going down the highway, all the while my heat was blowing extremely hot so i pulled over to let it cool down. I was able to get back home without it overheating too much (not in the red).
So i let it cool and refilled coolant 50/50 g12 due to loss from evaporation, now its just blowing cold air from vents prior to this (last couple months) it wouldn't reach 190 it was slightly below my question is does this sound like the thermostat or something worse its almost like its been sticking open and then all of a sudden it was stuck shut I'm not sure but I'm gonna change thermostat tomorrow .
View 10 Replies
Ok so here here goes I have a 1999 f250 super duty with 5.4 triton it seems to be over heating but the gage stays in the normal operating temperature range. I just changed the water pump. Could it be the thermostat and Would it hurt to remove the thermostat until I can get one...
View 8 Replies
Original owner of a 2005 Excursion 6.8l v10, 155k miles. About a month ago 10-15 minutes or so into my ride to work on a 50-60 degree morning the check gauges light comes on, noticed the temp gauge pegged to H followed by the check engine light, then limp mode. Turned on front & rear heaters and cold air was blowing. Pulled over, checked under the hood, coolant wasn't boiling, tank was 1/2 full and cold air was blowing thru radiator. 1st thought was T'Stat. So I removed T'Stat added some antifreeze & continued to work w/o a t'stat. Then had heat thru radiator & heat in front & rear heaters. Engine ran cool with no overheat issue.
Bought aftermarker T'Stat (slant) put that in and everything back to normal. About a month later same problem happens at about the same point in my trip to work, temp pegs, no heat from heater and goes into limp mode. Shut the truck off release pressure from radiator and coolant level goes down, seems to feed back into engine. Start the truck up temp goes back to normal and everything is fine for the rest of the day with several starts/stops. Bought FORD OEM T'Stat & replaced. Next morning same problem. So i think maybe there's an air pocket somewhere, add more coolant & fill to proper level when cold. next morning from cold start same problem. Coolant is clean, just changed oil and no coolant in oil. Problem only happens from a cold startup in the morning.
I'm at a loss. I'm thinking of drilling a small bypass hole in the T'Stat.
View 9 Replies
My 2005 Excursion Limited V10 started overheating several months ago. The radiator needed to be replaced. This was done and a complete system flush was done along with an air lock check. Everything worked until the ac was turned on, then the gauge showed it was overheating but laser temp sensor showed it was not overheating. I had the water pump, temp sensor, thermostat and clutch fan replaced. Vehicle still shows overheating and will go into limp mode but it actually is not overheating because you can take the radiator overflow cap off and laser sensor shows normal temp. I am thinking its electrical. I have not replaced the temp sender yet. It only shows overheating when I turn the A/C on. When I shut the ac off, the gauge goes back to normal. What else can I do?
View 1 Replies
I have an 03 F350 with the 6.0L. It has 210,000 miles on it and the injectors are beginning to be suspect. Its very hard to start when its cold, smokes and runs like crap untill it warms up.
I've found a set of injectors out of a 2005 truck with 8000 miles on them. The truck was overboosted and blew a head gasket.
Now finally to my question.....Can the overboost damage the injector? Would it be safe to buy these and install them or rebuild them before install or just leave them alone?
View 14 Replies
I have a 07 6.0 powerstroke, I had 2 bad injectors so I replaced all of them with reman's. I had a problem with them coming loose. the first time this happened it hydrolocked the motor, number 8 cylinder. so I pulled all the injectors and replaced all the seals and washers and torqued them down a little more than spec like 27 lbs. it runs great and starts great even at 25 degrees but I noticed this morning that when starting it up after it sits (cold) it blows blueish smoke until late it warms up and I accelerate. is this normal? should I check fuel filters? oil in fuel?
View 14 Replies
We've been having intermittent issues with no start after car warms up. No codes have been thrown, newer plugs. Car runs fine once it starts no misses or hesitations. I haven't found any good sources for schematics of fuel sys or ignition in order to begin to diagnose the problem. Issue isn't present on cold start or after car has set a few hours (at least not yet). Cranks strong. Once when I drove the car and got stuck I was able to give it a shot of starting fluid after the air box and got it to fire off. which leads me to think it's fuel related. I haven't had the tools to check spark the last time I got stuck. My wife typically drives it as my commute doesn't replicate the problem.
View 4 Replies
Where the ICP is located on a 2006 f350? I have a no start condition after the truck warms up, everything else is fine. Started fluid works to crank, I suspect the ICP and /or Orings.
View 4 Replies
I have an '04 EX Limited 6.0L. This past January while driving in CO from TX the truck overheated while driving stop and go in a small area looking for a particular store. The fan kicked in as it should have and it cooled some, but I begin to notice during the trip that anytime I was sitting still it would overheat. I had front and rear AC controls on heat as it was very cold. When driving normal speeds engine temps would cool down. The Heater would begin to blow cold air as the temp would rise when sitting still or barely moving. Got home and found radiator a little low of fluid and filled to just below the modified full line.
Fast forward 5 months. I've had no problems at all since until about 2 weeks ago I noticed the smell of antifreeze every time I would exit the truck. The degas bottle still looked full if you checked it cold or once you depressurized the system. No signs of puking. This past Friday after driving home from about an hour away I had to stop at a particularly long stop light and the AC began to blow hot air. I checked my temps(scanguageII) and it was getting hotter the longer I sat. Checked degas bottle when I got home no problems. I've been trying to get it to do this again but no luck. Suspected that it may be the heater core for the rear AC, but turning it on in any temp hasn't duplicated results.
View 9 Replies
