Ford Excursion :: Oil Pressure Gauge Not Reading Intermittently / Battery Light Coming On
Feb 19, 2013
I have been having an intermittent (2 times in the past 2000 miles) oil pressure gauge not reading. As I own a 6.0L I understand that this is just a pressure switch in reality and if the engine was starved of oil the HPOP system would kill the engine. The first time the oil gauge went out it was raining out. The second time was after going through a carwash and getting the underbody wash. At this time my battery light also came on for a few seconds.
Both problems seemed to go away after an engine restart. Today it is snowing lightly and my battery light came on again. I happened to be monitoring the battery voltage and FICM voltage via OBD II using Torque app. At no time while the battery light was on today did the battery voltage drop below 13.5V. The FICM was also stable at 48.5+/-.5V.
As the battery voltage read by the PCM is not actually dropping and the previous oil pressure gauge and the fact that my left blinker indicator is out I am thinking I may have electrical issues with the gauge cluster. I have never had these issues while driving in dry weather. Where do I start troubleshooting this? Also I am going out of town for the next two weeks and my girlfriend was going to use the vehicle. Is it OK for her to drive?
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These are my gauge readings at 70 degrees Fahrenheit. According to an AC conversion for gauges calibrated in Pascals, 35-40F converts to 241-276 KPa, 140-160F converts to 1000-1103Kpa. The gauges are in Mpa which by conversion is 3 decimal points to the left so .241-.276 and 1-1.103 Mpa. Here are my gauge readings at 68 degrees ambient temp. Rear air is same as an ambient temp on max ac and the front is pictured. There seem to be virtually no pressure differences which I would interpret as a novice that there is ) freon flow.
There is freon in the system with the high pressure being approx correct but the low side is too high if I understand correctly. Basically when at highway speeds at 75 degrees yesterday the front AC was cold and the rear was outside vent temp only. There are slight leaks in the low and high-pressure valves. I have a Mastercool replacement tool but they did not send a fitting for the high-pressure valve. What these readings mean as far as what may be wrong?
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My battery light keeps coming on and off, batteries were replaced by the dealer and checked out good at advanced auto parts.
2002 Limited 7.3L
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I have a 2001 Excursion Limited V10. 146000 miles 2 wheel drive. I have had it about a year and this is my first winter to really have experience with her.
When the outside temperature is very cold and the engine is cold from sitting all night, at start up, the oil pressure gauge reads nothing and the oil pressure/temp idiot light is on. Only does this during the first very cold start up or after sitting and engine getting very cold again.
I can drive just a short distance (2 blocks) and both gauge and light go to normal and stay there for the rest of my drive. I am using a quality 5/20 oil and filter and the level is good. Warmer days it has never happened. Truck runs fine, smooth idle, no "limp mode". She has not had any recent work done. All the other dash gauges read fine.
There is something about really cold temperatures that have to be causing the issue , I think. ??
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Came on intermittently other day, got it home then did not start. Charged for a bit, it started on the charger then off the charger a few times I assumed out was the alternator just replaced it. Battery light now on continually, hope I didn't destroy two batteries driving out for 20 mom after light first illuminated, they already to be only one year old. In addition to the ABS light now and the brakes feel unboosted? Hopefully fuses popped?
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I have a 2002 Ranger V6 3000 with 100K miles. Can I add a higher viscosity oil since my pressure gauge is acting up. I changed the sending switch twice but the gauge still acts up occasionally. I was thinking of adding 10/ 30 on my next oil change. I do live in the area where the air temp is quite high in the summer. The truck runs well except for the oil gauge, in my opinion, is giving false readings.
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I have a 2001 Ranger 4.0, 4x4 that just hit 100k and the oil pressure gauge doesn't show a reading for about 1 minute after startup. Also, the check gauge light comes on. What do I replace to fix this and is it something I can do myself? I am mildly handy. Would you worry about fixing it or just let it go because it's obviously getting oil pressure.
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My battery light is coming on intermittently but the truck seems to be running fine need to know how to test it to make sure that is the problem.
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Just changed the fuel filter in my '04 6.0, no issues worked just like normal, filter primed truck started, great. Well now my fuel pressure gauge is reading dead 0, I know that can't be right because the truck is running, but noticed my fuel mileage seems about 2 mpg lower all of a sudden. Had R&R Injectors installed about 40k ago, figure it's just a bad gauge but wanted to check and see before messing with the frickin wiring. Also, have had a lot of pressure buildup in the coolant tank, has had head gaskets and studs, anything else it could be besides head gaskets? Have had a lot of wiring issues with this truck from the previous owner....
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Can I read oil pressure on my scan gauge II ? If so, how do I do it?
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I have an 06 F350 with the 6.0 powerstroke. My battery light started coming on and will go out for a while, then come back on. Sometimes it flickers a little. I have checked/cleaned battery terminals (there was no corrosion). I have replaced the alternator. The batteries are just over a year old (10/12). I have not had any slow starting or any other symptoms other than the warning light. I am still having the same problems after replacing the alternator. I have checked with a voltage tester and it was reading 19+ when the light was off. When the warning light is on it was jumping from 12 - 15. This is an old tester so I'm not sure that it is working correctly. (not sure why I am getting the 19+). I'm going to go buy a new tester, but I was wondering if there is something else that could be causing the warning light. I know very little when it comes to electrical issues.
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The check gauges light on my 1988 Cheyenne 4x4 is coming on and the oil pressure gauge is erratic back and forth from low to high pressure.
The vehicle is a 4.3L manual. Any likely cause or where to start with troubleshooting?
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2005 Camry LE 4 cylinder, 141K miles.
For 6 months the battery light has been coming on intermittently, sometimes not coming on for two to three days and then does it again every so often during the fourth day and so on. Until recently, it's gone a record 6 days without coming on.
However, today it's stayed on all day. Usually, when it does come on, it will go back in in a minute or two. I'd gotten used to it, since the car has always started like nothing is wrong. However, tonight the ABS light came on with the battery light, then the Safety Bag light came on. Then, the radio died, clicking, static, then just dim light, The clock dimmed when the headlights were on, and the headlights weren't as bright as they should be. Stopped the car in a parking lot. Wouldn't not start again, but the dash would come on.
Got a jump and the car started up fine, but there wasn't enough power getting to anything to make the car do much of anything. The car didn't seem to have enough power to send to the transmission to shift, pressing the brake pedal made the dash go black.
Sat a while, got the car to start again, with a fight. Enough power to shift getting to the transmission, but quickly all the lights started coming on one by one again, and none of the lights were bright as they should be. Back to square one.
Just the battery? Replaced the alternator a year ago, when it killed the last battery. The current battery is a year to 13 months old.
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As I'm driving along, I get the battery light coming for a few minutes then going out. Is this a sign my alternator is on the fritz?
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2000 Ford Excursion XLT 4x4 V10 ... Part store shows I need a 3G alternator ... Current alternator put on by PO in 2013/14 s a Duralast DL7764 from Autozone. Tag is still on it.
My battery light is coming on for a few seconds and going off for several hours before it comes on again. Connections are good....crappy Autozone alternators.
But for some reason my motor has a 6G alternator. All parts stores say I need a 3G. Did Ford put 6G'S in all excursions, or do I have a 2004+ motor in my 2000 Ex? Or will a 6G fit where a 3G is supposed to be? All connections look factory including electrical hook ups.
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Just recently got a sweet deal on an 01 Lariat with a very low mileage 5.4L. I almost didn't purchase it because the oil pressure gauge will not read when you start the engine. Sometimes it will sometimes not.
When it does read, it is just past half which is the normal reading. When it doesn't read, it shows zero and the light is on. The engine runs fine either way, and the previous owner said it has been that way for years. The engine has been well cared for, and has been running Mobile 1 full synthetic for most of the 80k miles. The oil was not overly dirty at purchase, so I figured it to be a loose connection. I suffer from the cold solder joints that these trucks are plaqued with, as evident by the intermittent odometer reading. Do you think the oil gauge issue is the same thing? A cold solder joint? Or should i just start with a new sender?
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I have a 2003 Excursion 6.0. I didn't post this in the 6.0 section because it may not be just a 6.0 issue. (See what I get) On cold starts, anything under 150 degree water temp reading on the SGII. I get a CHECK GAGE light on accompanied by the check engine light. No codes read on the SGII pending or stored. Just some of the time I get a water in fuel light too. This tends to go out fairly soon after driving. (Even after I just drain the fuel pump it still happens.) other issues that accompany the lights are as follows.
The trans temp does not give a reading to the dash. The oil temp does not give a reading the dash. Both show proper temp on the SGII. When in reverse the back up alarm beeps as if something is behind me. And the auto door locks will not activate after 10 mph. The tach also will not show a reading in the dash. SGII shows the numbers. Now the kicker, this ALL gets resolved the instant the water temp hits 150 degrees. The only lingering issue is the that the tach will surge or drop every now and then. The tow/haul light does not come on when this is going on. I've checked the battery terminals all are clean. Both batteries are brand new.
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I have been looking on the internet but can't really find anything on this, how do I replace the 2 bulbs that are in the back dome light? It seems like the plastic piece comes off but I don't know how and I don't want to break it
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Just had the tires rotated , then shop tech backs the X out of the shop, parks it and then hands me the keys. I hop in and turn the key , the truck turns over , but starts to shudder and buck, and fuel pressure gauge reads 0.
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I have a 2007 Sante Fe with the 3.3 engine. Having a problem with the Fuel gauge not reading correctly and a check engine light. The engine code indicated that the problem was with the sending unit in the tank on the "A" side (behind the driver). I checked with Hyundai and with a tech line service and they indicated that it was a common problem and I needed to replace both the "A" & "B" units to correct the problem. I did that and cleared the codes and it set another code indicating that the "B" unit was the source of the code. I pulled the "B" unit again and checked the wiring and the problem still was there. I switched out the units on the "B" side again with the old unit and the problem is still there.
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The tire pressure warning light has been on in my car for about a week. The dashboard computer says that the tire pressure in the front right tire is 17 psi, but when I use the pressure gauge, the reading is almost 40 psi. Is this something I should be concerned about? What could be causing this problem?
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