Alright so my Ex is pretty noisey when going over bumps and I'm going to do the V/Mod-B spring swap. My mechanic showed me how shot my front sway bar (aka control arm) bushings are so those definitely need to be replaced.
What would you guys recommend for getting for bushings? Should I get the whole set or just ones for the front swing arm?
'01 Taurus with an occasional rattle/clunking sound coming from the front end when going over bumps. Took it to the local shopping center auto. service dept. (probably 1st mistake I know) They say the only thing they could find was the RH CV boot was bad and was probably the source of the noise. Doesn't sound right to me since the boot is rubber and what I hear is more of a metal sound..what I was thinking possibly a suspension link or tie rod end. I know what a bad cv JOINT sounds like and it's nothing like this. Now if the CV boot is bad I don't mind to replace it, but I don't want to spend the money if it is not going to solve the problem. I've never heard of a boot making noise before.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2002 sc430 with 65,000 miles. It seems to be riding rougher than usual and noisy over bumps.
View 9 RepliesThe front end of my 2013 Elantra GLS "Creaks" when I go over large bumps especially when the tires/springs extend - like when you go over a smooth rut in the road or if I make a sharp turn and the weight of the car shits to one side. Of course it doesn't happen all the time so that's the perfect excuse for the dealer to look the other way. I haven't taken it there yet because I know if I don't point them in the right direction it'll take 4 times as long to remedy the problem.
Anyway, temperature doesn't seem to affect as much but in the mornings when it's colder it's slightly more noticeable. I've tried to record the sound but that's easier said then done. I've push down on the front end to see if I could reproduce the sound but it doesn't happen when the shocks are compressed but rather when the spring extends. The creaking sounds like when you walk on a old wooden floor or opening an old door kinda thing. What it could be?
OK, so I have a 2009 Elantra and have noticed that in the last 2 weeks, there is a severe rattle/clunk when I hit bumps that sounds like it is coming from the back right tire. At times it also sounds like it is coming from the seats. I just can't tell. It has been to 3 different dealers. One said they heard it and suggested it was a loose spoiler....tightened and no change. The dealer I bought it from claims they hear nothing (it is SO noisy!). I went to a dealer today who drove with me and said it may be a defect with struts, etc. They definitely heard it.
So I ask new Elantra owners..could it just be that the Elantra is noisy over bumps? Sounds like my shocks are gone. Super loud when going over bumps. My car is only 6 months old.
i wrench on kids car. have done all 4 brakes in last 5 yrs. kid said front brakes were noisy. 06/01. 1 pad was worn thru to backing plate. messed up rotor. i decided to replace both rotors since cost was minimal. piston in caliper was stiff. decided to change caliper 1 week later. yesterday kid said rear brakes were noisy. rear discs. 1 pad was down to metal. replaced pads. rotor looks rough. other rotor is ok. need to get 1 new rotor. should i change both? pistons in calipers pushed in easy. feel smooth. caliper pins look fine.
View 11 RepliesBeen chasing this for a few weeks and getting fed up. Have a bad metal on metal "creaking" noise from the front at low speeds.
Background - Replaced springs with X code front and modded C code rear from Junior at ATS. Also replaced shocks at the same time. All hardware tightened with weight on suspension. Have rechecked torque on ubolts many times, even loosened and retightened both ends of the shackles, sway bar links, shocks, etc.
Can't get the noise to go away. Hard to pinpoint exactly where it's coming from but you can "feel" the noise in the back half of the front springs.
How to Replace a Battery
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
I've noticed that my Ex has an odd noise when driving over minor bumps like repaired potholes. It doesn't do it over larger bumps. Hard to describe, but it's like a "slap-back" after hitting the bump. Sounds like a dull thud that's apparently coming from the right front. Sounds like the wheel is hitting the bump twice.
Anyhow, after working underneath...and checking for things that are loose, worn, etc...I found nothing. The truck has just under 41,000 miles. The only thing that seemed to be a bit off was the right front shock. I pulled them all while painting/cleaning up...and of course, each one expanded immediately. This one didn't. Once it was compressed fully..it did expand but not as quickly as the others. (In order to get back on the road, I put it back.)
So, before I start throwing parts at this truck. My initial thought is that this one shock is weak and isn't keeping the front wheel planted.
All that being said, I could swap the shocks side to side and see if the noise moves. But....it's difficult to move gas shocks around so if it's thought that shocks could be the case..I'd just put new ones on. (Any recommendation?)
Replacing the cover over the second row flap things?
My 2nd row bench seats spend most of their life in the down position since the dog views everything behind the front seats as his domain. The flaps (and back of row 2) are looking a little ruff and I would like to replace, but haven't seen anything online.
Where to look?
My wife backs our Excursion into a live oak and the rear windscreen exploded. I've already ordered new glass and I'll pick it up tomorrow morning in Brunswick. Looking for any step by step pictures. couldn't really find anything on you-tube.
View 3 RepliesBeside the normal tools you will need a mirror, flashlight, very long needlenose pliers, and tin snips. There are 2 screws holding the driver door panel on, one is in the courtesy light at the bottom and the other is inside the switch compartment. You must also twist the light socket out, pop the cover off above the switches, pry the switch pod up at the FRONT and slide forward, and unplug the switches.
Now pull straight up on the panel and remove it after taking the light out at the bottom;
Tape the membrane up out of your way
You will need mirrors like these and very long needlenose.
Remove all the yellow plastic screws holding this aqua connector and it's wires and tuck it into the corner of the door.
Now you have a clear view of the actuator;
Try to pop this yellow plastic clip loose with your fingers and if not drill a hole above the oval hole and use a screwdriver;
Take the 3 screws out at the latch;
Push the plastic screws in holding the black cable and look through the oval hole to locate the green clip holding the rod to the door latch handle.
Cut the oval hole bigger so you can access the next steps;
Rotate the whole unit around until you can pop the green clip loose with a screwdriver by prying or pulling on the small side of the green clip and then locate the rod next to it (not mentioned in other posts), and disconnect it by using your very long needle nose to squeeze one side and a long screwdriver to pry the rod out;
Rotate the entire unit out around the window track, remove the wire harness, unplug the two other harnesses, and insert screwdriver under actuator before sliding it off.
Now you are ready to do the tin foil fix or just replace the actuator.
my 2005 V10 Ex is garage kept. I work at home and have a different daily driver so it usually goes out once a week.
At 40,000 miles and 10 years...it still has the original factory installed battery. I keep a tender on it if it's going to sit a while and so far everything has been OK.
At 10 years, should I replace the battery just to avoid a potential problem?
A few weeks back, I noticed my driver side fog light housing broke. Granted the fog lights arent that bright anyways, I was thinking of replacing them with a light bar. Could I have the light bar wired up the same way? Would having a bar there cause the engine/tranny to overheat?
View 13 RepliesIs the Excursion 3rd brake light from the F250/350 pickups like the rest of the truck... Or is it from an E-Series van like the tail lights?
In either case, is there a unit that has both the brake light and a bed/cargo area light? My rear window is tinted and I'd like to put a little light up high while I'm backing up... Just a little.
I really don't want to drill a bunch of holes for auxillary lighting, especially up high.
Would it work? I saw this on CL 2000 Ford F250 6 speed manual 2wd transmission. It says it is for 2WD but I don't think that matters because the transfer case is what make it 4WD anyway right?
I don't love automatics. With a manual trans, some new gears and the dully conversion this thing would be like driving a giant sports car. Any computer related problems?
We took our Ex to a local business and got almost 6k worth of work done prior to our trip. This included specific instructions to inspect the brake systems and replace anything that needed it. The work done included new front calipers, pads, hubs, new xrf ball joints, new shocks all the way around including dual fronts, a 6.0 tranny cooler and all new fluids. I alook tried getting a magtec differential cover installed but was told it didn't fit.
Long story short, while on the road we began to notice a grinding noise occasionally on small bumps. In reding ca our rear drivers side brake pads basically disintegrated and we were stranded while BigO replaced both pads, calipers and one rotor. They also advised that the slide pins were frozen on both calipers. This had no effect on the other noise I described.
Now that we're home we went back to the original shop and explained what happened. The owner agreed to take another look at the truck but basically said he stands behind his employees. He admitted that they chose not to examine the rear brakes to save usome "3 hours" of shop time. He also said that the rear brakes would've cost the same regardless of if they'd replaced them instead of BigO.
When my wife pointed out that our family had been first of all put in danger and secondly stranded by his worker's shoddy examination. He then preceded to ask why I insisted on doing so much work to such an old, high mileage truck. I left our truck with him so they could see if the sound could be traced back to anything they worked on and off course they didn't hear it.
I'm going back there tomorrow to take him for a drive and show him the noise which I repeat only started after their work was done. Am I wrong to be furious and think this crap is completely bs?
I need to replace the rubber axle bumper guards. I have a clunking noise from the left front going over bumps. Troubleshooting I found the left front axle bumper guard is missing, right side is missing chunks and dry rotted. I had a question about how they attach. The one that is missing looks like a rusted bolt snapped off. Is it safe to assume a bolt goes right thru the center of the bumper guard into the frame? Couldn't tell on the right side it is in bad shape. Right front bolt may have sheared off on the bottom and just held in on the top by what is left.
View 5 RepliesSo a line of panic stops on the highway last night and I lost - stopping an 8000lb rig compared to hondas, nissans, etc. Anyway I just kissed the corner of a nissan xterra and dented the steel part of my front bumper below the driver headlight. Nothing else. It is a 2002 all black limited.
I am wondering about fixing vs. buying a new bumper. A new one from the dealer is 436 and then needs to be painted.
I have a 2001 excursion, v10 4x4 just bought it used thinking I scored until I drove it home (mostly noticeable on freeway, which I didn't do while on my test drive) the steering wheel stays straight, but the truck doesn't stay straight in the road lines,the car turns!! Feels real loose , I hear rattles, rattles going over bumps but mostly real slight uncontrolled steering and seems floaty. Is this a common problem? I did a little searching and found some posts about rattles but noble about sloppy steering.
View 8 RepliesFor a while now, my coolant temp gauge in the instrument cluster would bounce according to the bumps on the road, only when engine is fully warmed up. So I disconnected the ECT sensor to see if there's anything unusual. Nothing suspicious found, so I plugged it back in. Now my temp gauge is at "Cold" all the time. OBD reader shows normal coolant temp rise.
I shorted the ECT connector to simulate a hot condition--gauge still shows Cold. Checked the yellow/red wire against ground--5 ohm. Disconnected battery for 30 minutes--no change.
Now, it looks like I'll have to pull the instrument cluster, which is not something I want to do since I don't really have a place to work on the car, but I take this drastic measure.
Mine is a 2001, with the analog cluster.