Ford Excursion :: No Trailer Brake When Brakes Applied?
Jun 23, 2015
So on our trip up here I experienced a strange problem. Normally when I apply my brakes my trailer brakes kick in via the controller. This time when I apply the brakes I'm only getting my truck brakes. I can still use the brake controller manually to slow down but it's worrying. What is going on.
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Just noticed this tonight. While making a left turn, I had the blinker on and had the brakes applied and noticed the indicator on the instrument cluster was blinking. Once off the brakes, it took it a few seconds for it to resume blinking.
When I got home, I checked to see if the right signal did the same and it did. I also checked the rear lights and when the signal is on and the brakes are applied the light does not blink nor does it brighten up like they're supposed to when the brakes are applied, it stays dim as if both the blinker and brakes are off.
I did a quick search. I have not checked any of the bulbs or wiring, but I'm thinking it might be the turn signal switch/ lever. What the problem might be?
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I recently purchased a 2001 Ford Excursion V10 Gas with 208k miles and have a problem with it. The problem Im having is that when I brake, it tends to go to the left. At first I thought it was a bad caliper so I took it to a local shop and I feel they ripped me of, they replaced brake lines, calipers, rotors, brakes, I even bought new tires as it needed some of this stuff anyways but the problem still there. In the end I was told they could not fix the issue and that I had a bad ABS module and only Ford could fix that. So I then took it to Ford who took 2 days with my truck and did who knows what then was told that the problem is a bad 'Hydraulic Control Unit' and it was going to cost me $1100 to get fixed. I have no clue what that is?
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I have a 2005 F250 Power stroke w/ brake controller installed. There is no voltage to the trailer brake (blue wire) pin. I've checked all of the fuses and they appear to be okay.
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Have been getting stuck and not releasing when brake is applied? I know there is a rod that connects and releases this for brakes or something but can it be replaced easy or just bypassed which I would prefer ?
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The driver side brake light does not come on when you apply the breaks but the light comes on when you turn them on.
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I have a 2000 F250 PSD. When applying the brakes, the rear end starts jumping and bucking. The effect is exaggerated when pulling a trailer and applying the truck brakes to stop. The problem does not occur when manually applying the trailer brakes. It was suggested to me that this problem is caused by a hydro boost leak.
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2001 F-350 / 7.3L / 147K ... What are some symptoms of the master cylinder going out? And is there a such thing as a rebuild kit anymore? The pedal has been getting spongier & spongier over the past months. Truck still stops O.K. but you have to brake earlier than I used to. Pedal can go almost to the floor. Pedal continues to go to floor as pressure is applied. Does not go to floor though.
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So I was told I had a brake light out? Went and bought new bulb and replaced. Turn on headlights and the single filament lights. so when brakes are applied the second filament should light up that give the brighter affect.
Well when brakes applied the bulb goes out completely? Take foot off brake and the single filament comes back on. The other tail light operates as it should. Even used bulb from working tail light with same results.
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My 2008 gs 350 E-brake or parking brake isn't as tight anymore on a hill it doesn't stop my car when applied when parked how to adjust this? I rather not go to the dealer if its a simple fix?
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Back in April when I was getting my car inspected the mechanic told me I needed new rear brake pads. I knew I did so I let him change them.
Now I get noisy brake pads this moaning sound out of them when I apply the brakes while I'm backing out of a parking spot or my driveway. I've only driven about 5 or 6 hundred miles since then.
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After putting my Ford Ranger in park and pressing down on the E-break to get the news-paper or mail. I've noticed that there is a consistent squeaking coming from the back drum brakes when the brake pedal is applied. But only for a certain period of time; then the squeaking stops.
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I am going to have to replace the rear dust shields and emergency brakes soon. I was wondering if we have this documented somewhere. The main question is do we need to remove the axle to replace the shield.
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Rear steel brake line ruptured the other day (was pretty rusty). Despite being an idiot in regards to automotive repair (among many other things), I decided to give it a shot. I was able to get the damaged section off, went to Autozone with the broken piece, they matched it up, were nice enough to cut it and put on one larger fitting (because the two were different sizes) and flare it for me.
I was able to get the one side (at the T fitting) on OK. That was the "new" side, the one they flared at Autozone. Looks good. No leaks.
The stock side, at the passenger side caliper, leaks like crazy. Not out the threads, but out the hole through which the line passes. Know what I mean?
I'm having a hard time figuring out what's happening, because I'm not sure how this thing works. Does the line fit flush to something inside the connection at the caliper? Is it a bad flare?
It did not go in easy, but the new one was just as much trouble as the fitting that came out (stock?), so it must be right.
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I have a 1962 ford falcon ranchero. The driver side brake light, goes out when brake pressure is applied, but is on when lights are fully on, but even then brake pressure is applied and goes out. Right brake light is fine. And turn signal on right works. But driver side back light goes out when brake pressure is put on and when turn signal is put for left side. Right makes a turn noise left side doesn't. I recently replaced the turn signal switch. So its brand new. But older wires every where else. No cuts anywhere on wires. Fine. And replaced the bulb also.
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I lost a brake line on my pickup truck, had it replaced a couple days ago. Occasionally, when i apply the brakes i get a brake chatter. It has occurred 3-4 times in the last 4-5 days. No pattern to it happening.
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2011 Ford Taurus with 4000 miles. Car, at times, will pull to one side when brakes applied. Dealer could find nothing wrong first time(no cost). Second time they found that the "rear pads stuck in brackets on both sides. removed calipers brackets and pads and did full clean and reassembled". Third time road test found "no pull". "checked on ramp, all brakes seem fine, all free and moving properly. No problem found.". Road test with technician found slight vibration in steering wheel when braking but no pull. Technician says an uneven or slanting street could cause car to pull. Never heard of this before (my other car is fine on the same roads & streets). Is this a possibility as a cause of my problem?
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I have a 2012 FX4, 5.0. The dealer tuned the front rotors and replaced the pads at 19k because of a bad vibration when brakes were applied. Now at 45k, the same thing is starting to happen again. I am pretty sure it is not my driving because my 2001 F150 4x4 had 162,000 miles on it and never had a rotor off of it or turned and was on the 3rd set of pads when I traded it on the 2012.
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Hooked up the trailer today for the first time, i have running lights, right turn signal, and no left blinker. left bulb looks good. dual filament. #6 fuse inside truck looks good, can't figure out why no left blinker... trailer worked fine on my previous truck. Not sure what to tackle next..
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My F-250 7.3 liter diesel is eating up front tires. I have tried new upper and lower ball joints, new shocks, alignment, and new tires (again). Tire wear is on the outside right and inside left. At times when the brakes are applied it causes a shake and vibration. One mechanic though I should get the leaf springs redone.
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Hooked up to my trailer and I have running lights but no turn signals, brake lights, or trailer brakes. I pulled plugged in my other vehicle to the trailer and everything works fine. My truck is a 2011 with the factory trailer brake control and pigtail connection. It worked fine last year.
I checked the connector with a test light and there is only power to the running lights. I then disconnected the plug at the back of the trailer connector and tested there and got the same results. Are there particular fuses or relays I should look at?
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