Ford Excursion :: No Start With Slight Crank / Engine Jams Or Locks Up
Aug 13, 2013
I am having a starting problem with my Excursion. It cranks but immediately quits as if the entire engine jams or locks up. I thought it was the starter so I replaced the current one with the original starter that I happened to still have from a previous starting problem. The problem persisted. What the problem could be?
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The door jams on my Ohio EX is rotting out. When Ford will release aftermarkets be allowed to be made?
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I have a 2000 X that the paint is starting to flake/peel off on the door jams and on the inside frame of the door? It has lived it's life in Vegas and wondered if the heat maybe had an effect on it? It is now in the cold of Salt Lake?
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Tried starting the Ex for the first time in two weeks and it won't start -- no starting problems before. Battery is 4 months old and fully charged. When I try to start it electrical power is there (gauges act normal) but no crank at all -- motor does not turn over. Its acting like a switch or some electrical connection is bad. I tried moving the gear selector around to make sure it is in Park....... also tried starting it in neutral but no luck.
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My Excursion didn't start the other day. It would barely crank. A new Interstate battery was installed about a year ago.
I jumped it and it fired right up. I went inside and left it running for about 20 minutes.
The next day I started it up and drove about 5 miles. I noticed whenever I was braking both the audio and lights on the radio would cut out.
It sat for about 4 hours and then wouldn't start again. I jumped it again and stood next to it while it was warming up.
I noticed the interior lights got dim, the radio cut out again, and then the entire gauge cluster went crazy. The needles were jumping around and would then shut off, then jump around again. Whenever I increased the RPMs the problems would stop.
I got home and it sat for about an hour. I tried to start it again and it would barely crank.
I'm trying to avoid a trip to the parts store to have the alternator tested since I'll have to jump it again... and worse, I could get stuck on the side of the road if it completely dies.
I'm guessing the alternator is shot. Could it be anything else?
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Still haven't found out the problem with excursion quitting it has stopped for good this time cranks but wont start, fuel pump and filter have been replaced shop said it was going bad, sent to dealer twice no fix.
2000, XLT, V10, 150k, 4X4 .....
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My 7.3 won't start after sitting for almost 2 months, the wiring for the injectors was bad, and the first package was damaged, so I had to order a new one, and wait trough Christmas before I get the new parts. The valve cover seals have now been installed, and all parts fitted. Thieves stole my batteries so I had to buy new ones there as well.
When I tried to start it, it will crank, but not start, white smoke comes out of the exhaust, and glow plugs seem to be fine. One thing I did notice is that the fuel pump under the driver side of car was making a wired noise when turning on the ignition, it was not a constant hissing sound that I used to on my other cars. I poured a small amount of condensation remover in the tank, the tank is half full, but still no start.
After trying a few times, it did sound like it would get better, but that only lasted for a second. Strange problem, I think my fuel pump is acting up, but I don't know for sure yet. The fuel pump did work when I parked it. Could it be a fuse that does it? I checked the hpop to see if there was any oil there, and it was.
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I own a 2003 Limited with the 6.8 V10. I drove the truck on Sunday and all appeared to be fine, gas gauge was setting just under a half tank. When I went to start it yesterday, it would not start. Strong crank, no start. I checked my fuse and it was fine. Fast forward to this morning, since I had kind of depleted the battery with attempting to start, I put my little jump start pack on it and gave it a whirl. Truck started fine but the gas gauge was sitting on empty. I had five gallons of gas in the garage so I added that to the tank then drove to the local gas station to add more fuel. I put another 10 gallons in the tank so it should have roughly 16 or 17 gallons in the tank. Gauge shows 3/4 tank but miles to empty is right around 175 miles which would seem right with 17 gallons in the tank. I suspect the fuel pump. I don't really want to spend $500 on the Motorcraft unit but was wondering if the group believes the Delphi or the Bosch units are quality replacement parts?
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Having some problems with my truck.... First off I bought a 2002 excursion and drove it for one day. Then I was at the car wash cleaning up the truck. Then I saw the window fogging up so I turned the car off. Now it won't start.
I had previously installed a new stereo, but had some problems, so I ran the remote wire to the fuse box, because the wire in the harness wasn't getting power.. So after a little trouble shooting we found out that the fuel pump wasn't working or was bad.
We replaced it, now it has pressure but will not start, will start with starting fluid but will not crank on its own. someone told me it may be a bad PCM? and a dealer can only replace it... I don't have tons of cash, as i bought this truck on 8/30/12 and this happened the day after i bought it.
The previous owner has paid or the fuel pump replacing but I don't think its right on my part to have him pay more money as this may be a mess up on my part with hooking the radio up to the fuse box... we have tried the fuses,realys, crank sensors...
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I have a 2000 V10 4wd. I'm going to list what happened in time order to best describe this problem. Sometimes when key is off there is a clicking from under the brake proportioning valve and sometimes a 2 second long buzz. When this happens, the A/C blower motor can run with key out also. If mistakenly left on over night it kills the battery.
I also notice that sometimes while driving my airbag light comes on randomly and sometimes it dings with doors closed. Also a few weeks ago the overdrive light starts blinking every few days. A few weeks later it wont start. No crank. So I put in new starter because mine was looking pretty crusty. Still no crank, but if I jump connection on inner fender solenoid/relay, then it starts fine.
Next day I put in a new solenoid/relay on passenger inner fender. Cranks fine and starts fine for the whole day until it randomly begins cranking by it self. With no key in. It did this several times even after re-checking everything and cycling key switch to check for bad connection there. The trans starts shifting hard, like the line pressure increased and sometimes it growls a little when it shifts into 4th
I then figured it was the Digital Trans Range Sensor which only allows start signal to go from key switch to the inner fender solenoid/relay if the trans is in park or neutral. I tested the DTRS and it seems to be working fine. It only has power at the solenoid if its in park or neutral on the tan/red wire, but the wht/pnk wire has power even when not cranking.
Being I couldn't figure out why it had power, I cut the red/lt blu wire at the ignition harness and ran a wire from the key switch side to the solenoid. Cranks and starts fine for 2 days and no mystery cranking either. Then after my wife had it all day acting fine I go to leave work that night in the rain after working a 14 hour day..... no crank. I noticed the "THEFT" light blinking but I've noticed that before and never had an issue starting.
When I came back to work in the morning it cranked and started fine 3 or 4 times then crank but no start again. I reconnected the crank wire back to factory thinking I bypassed something necessary. No change. Still acting randomly. I just ordered a VSS for the rear axle and a new DTRS for the trans. Gonna put these in today and test. Next will be a key switch since I'm having things work with key not on and I have 8volts on my grey/yell Accessory wire with key off.
I found a relay that clicks when inserted in it's socket even if key off. Its located driver side by Firewall by the Brake Booster. It has a tan/red wire(same as activation wire on inner fender solenoid but doesn't effect starting.
I have a schematic of starting system but I can't post pics because new acct here. The starter wire is red/blue at Key Switch then wht/pink after Central Junction Box, then dk blu/org after CPPJ clutch pedal position jumper(mine is auto trans. thats why is has factory jumper) but then turns to wht/pink before the DTRS then tan/red out of DTRS and at solenoid(I'm not sure it goes direct from DTRS to solenoid but color stays). As mentioned earlier, the white/pink wire has power but it shouldn't unless cranking, so its either getting it from the CJB or from where it changes from dk blu/org to wht/pink. Is there anything between the CJB and the DTRS? If nothing then why does color of wire change, and what could be giving the wire power?
Just as a note, in case it matters....my interior lights don't come on when door is opened but when it is open it dings like the key is in even when its not.
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Black Beauty finally gave up. Replaced battery, replaced fuel pump relay. Would only run with starter fluid sprayed into the air intake. She'll crank but not start. Here she sits at the dealership.
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2000 excursion V-10. I parked the truck, went back to start it and all my gauges blink, and the number one relay under the dash (interior light relay) begins clicking. The truck will not even crank. The relay will continue clicking (even with the key off) until you remove and replace the relay. Sometimes I will get absolutely nothing when I turn the key. I have tried jumping the battery, no change. Also tried starting it in neutral to trouble shoot the NSS, but it won't even click when in neutral. I checked battery connection, and followed the battery cables to look for a short but found nothing.
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This happens many times especially when I am parking parallel and need to take reverse frequently. The steering kind of jams, then vibrates and then the car engine is off. I need to restart every time this happens. This is causing fear to drive the car on highways.
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I have a 2001 Excursion 7.3 Diesel that is having a starting issue. Have replaced the batteries, has new glow plugs, common failing cam position sensor replaced once already. It runs great when it starts, no codes. It will crank, but not turn over at random times. Will do this for 3 or 4 tries...charge the batteries, go back later to start and it will on the second try. Turn it off, try again..and back to cranking, but not starting. Not fun having to worry about being stranded somewhere. Absolutely desperate at this point.
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A cold engine crank will turnover and start normally. But stop to run and errand or grab lunch...and the warm 302 2 barrel engine will turn over very sluggishly, lke the battery is dying. If you wait until the engine is cool, an easy start is assured but that takes hours! A local repair shop has rebuilt the carb, the battery & cables are new, and the starter works fine when engine is cold. My local repair shop is out of suggestions. It seems to work a little to hold the gas pedal down on the floor for a warm engine start....but engine still turns over sluggishly when trying to start when warm. Now If I drive it.....I just drive it around town a bit then back home ...unless I stay several hours somewhere while the engine cools....but that's not fun. It is a convertible, fun to drive...and this problem needs to be solved.
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Car not started for 5 months. 50k actual miles. Battery dead and replaced. Engine cranks but will not start. One squirt of starter fluid into air intake and it started immediately. Stopped and started several times (without starter fluid). Drove around block. Stopped and restarted with no problems. Let set for 1 hr. Started but ran only a couple of seconds and died. Will not restart but sounds like it is trying. Did not try more starter fluid again. Checked computer codes and none found. Can hear fuel pump run a few seconds when key turned on. Gas tank almost full but no gas added since last time it ran. Sounds like it is not getting gas?
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I was working on trailer lights and now no trailer lights and relays click but eng no crank. Batt has 12volts.
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In the winter, driving around downtown in Minneapolis can be very... interesting, to say the least. The usual 5 minute trip from the highway exit ramp to the parking garage can take an hour. But hey, it's a job. There's enough stop and go that I can't just put it in park, so I'm riding the brake for most of this hour.
It only happens a couple times a year, but every time we get weather, after about 45 minutes of this, my abs warning light comes on and my abs system stops working. (Finding that out was... unpleasant.)
I pull into the garage, leave my car for the shift, and it's fine on the drive home. Is this normal? What's happening?
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Installed aftermarket wheels with thegorilla lock set (20 locks total)? I ask because after installing my wheels, i had slight vibration from 68-75mph (nothing really crazy, but i feel it) and now that i installed the gorilla guard locks for added safety today, i seem to be getting slight vibration at lower speeds (40mph more or less).. could it be due to the wheel guard locks?
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I just picked up an 02 Supercrew. It came with a “Ford” remote starter. I imagine it was a dealer install for the previous owner. Anyways when I try to use the remote starter, it will crank the engine over but not fire. If I manually start the truck it fires up immediately. How come the remote start wont fire?
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I have an '02 X. I have re-programmed the seat belt alarm setting per the owners manual and set the "lights on after ignition off" to suit my needs.
The one thing that is driving me nuts though is that when I turn the ignition off and get out only the driver's door is unlocked. I want ALL locks to unlock. I haven't seen anything in the manual about this. How to re-program the locks so that they all unlock when the ignition is switched off?
I've put put about 2000 miles on the X now, towing my 5000lb trailer, mild offroading and running around town. It sure puts a smile on my face!
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