Ford Excursion :: No Start - Engine Turned Slowly And Voltmeter Shows 6.5 Volts?
Mar 19, 2014
So I went to Target with my wife yesterday and after about 30 mins of shopping, left the store and tried to start the Ex and will not start. The engine tuned over slowly like the battery did not have enough juice to start the truck. So I had it jumped and it started right up. So I went to autozone and the battery and alternator tested and both and in good working order.
Today it happened again. After stopping at a fast food joint to grab a quick bite, same thing it did not start. But before I started the truck the voltmeter showed about 12.6 volts. When I tried to start it, the engine turned really slow and did not start. By that time the volt meter showed about only 6.5 volts. So trying to start it just drained the battery. I had it jumped and it started right up. Went back to Autozone and had the battery and alternator tested and both are fine.
Once the truck is running, the volt meter shows ~13.5 - 14 v volts. No other electrical issues while driving. What's happening? What should I check for? The battery is about 3 years old. I will charge the battery over night and see what happens tomorrow.
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I have 2004 w12 phaeton and when i start car voltmeter shows like 13 volts and when it takes like 20 seconds to reach 13.8 and if I push on gas little bit it goes right on 13.8 or 13.9
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We have a 2002 Excursion XLT. 7.3 liter diesel. Edge chip.
It started turning over slowly when starting, and before I could take it in, it stopped starting completely. We tried jump starting it, nothing. the batteries seemed okay, so we took the starter down to the auto parts store and had it bench tested. It tested fine. We didn't think it would be the starter, since it is just under two years old. Didn't think the alternator was at fault, since it is a year old.
Purchased a new relay and installed it in the inside fuse box, nothing. We purchased two new batteries. After we dealt with rapidly flashing 'theft' light on the dash, it started up. Thought we had solved the problem. A couple of days later, slow to turn over when starting again. The next morning it wouldn't turn over at all. Tried to bypass all the sensors and relays between the ignition switch and the starter by connecting a wire between battery and starter. Nothing.
Had starter bench tested at a different store. It worked intermittently. Replaced the starter. Nothing. But when we hook up the battery directly to starter with key turned it turns over AND starts. Assume it something in ignition switch or a relay between ignition and starter. Bought a manual, but it doesn't show where to find relays. When I check trouble codes, I have a p1000, a p1260, a p0603, and a p0674.
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I recently bought a used 2010 Toyota Corolla s with around 79000 miles on it. It's an automatic and everything drives good but just one thing that has been annoying me. The problem is that when I come to a complete stop and stop there for a a while, the idle slowly drops from 650 to 600.
When this happens the car engine starts to vibrate excessively and you could feel it on your feet and steering wheel. When I turn a load on, the rpm rises and the vibration goes away.
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2004 6.0. 160K miles.
I'm about to replace an injector and wanted baseline info on fuel pressure before doing the work. Using a gauge tapped into the top of an aluminum alloy fuel filter cap (from bulletproof diesel), I turned the switch key on but did not start the engine.
Static pressure jumped to 60psi, but as soon as the pump cut off the pressure dropped off to zero. Again, engine not started. I cycled the key off and back on and the pressure hit 60psi and held that until the pump cycled off, then dropped back to zero.
I'd like to get a few confirmations that fuel pressure should or should not fall off when the pump kicks off.
Side note, during the crank process the pressure jumps and holds at 60psi and stays at 60psi while idling. I have not conducted a dynamic road test yet. Didn't have the adapter to connect my long hose...
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I have all eight injectors with "injector Circuit Low" code, a P0401 - Exhaust Gas ReCir Flow Insufficient Detected, and P0672 - Glow Plug #2 (which it has had for a few months).
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Harness? I did not think running with the glow plug error would be a big deal especially during the summer in So Cal.
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My trusty 2000 v10 has begun to give us starting troubles. The symptoms are:
1) Most times it does start normally and runs great.
2) When it won't start - Engine does not turn over
3) Interior lights and other electrics work, battery reads 13v
4) There is a click from the relay when the key is turned
5) Wires look good, no corrosion found in fuse/relay boxes
6) No indication of funny stuff via dash board lights
7) I do not have a code reader
My resolution the past two times has been to verify volts and connections, then wiggle all fuses and relays, wiggle the shifter in the car, then it started.
I have checked the basics and have become suspicious of sensors after running the Pinpoint Test A listed in another post by ~Christina. My forum research indicated that other people had problems with:
- transmission range sensor
- crankshaft sensor.
- cam sensor
So how does one go about finding the location of and testing these? Are there other sensors to investigate?
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I want to get the car on the road again and before insuring it I tried to start it Friday. To its credit it started up almost right away - its always been great in the cold. I let it run for 30 minutes to heat everything up.
I insured it Saturday and went to start it and won't go. Turned over & over & over, and the engine will chug every now and then but won't catch. Its a few degrees colder than it was Friday, but not by much.
It did have just under a quarter tank of gas, so I'm wondering if it could be condensation in the fuel system somewhere that was sucked in while idling on Friday? If so I don't really know what to do about that. Or could there are other things to check/try.
I'm replacing the plug on the block heater, but don't think thats the short. I was going to drive it to the garage to have them replace the cord (as I doubt its the block heater itself) but have to get it started to do that
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