Ford Excursion :: No Power At Working Temperature
Jun 11, 2016
I'm having a problem with my 6.0, My wife to ok my daughter, 16 months now, down to Seattle the other day for a nontraditional physical therapy that we've been trying; she went to leave and when the truck came up to temperature there was no power. By no power, I mean NO POWER. We had the Ex towed home, 50 or so miles, I was on an island at the time. I am looking at starting in on it tomorrow and can't find any similar problems using the search function on here. I starts fine, hot or cold. When hot it idles crazy rough and will not even pull up our drive way because there is no power, it does it when cold. Our drive way is barely the length of the Ex. When my wife read me the stats over the phone nothing seemed out of the ordinary from what I could tell.
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Basically my coolant temperature gauge either reads as the hottest it can be, or the coldest. It doesn't jump around a whole bunch, but it's always all the way to one end or the other. From what I've read there seems to be a lot of different temperature sensors, so I get a little confused with all of the abbreviations, but I'm fairly certain I checked the correct one, next to the thermostat housing.
Using a multimeter I checked the resistance of the sensor, and it was around 600 ohms about 30 minutes after it had been driven. I'm not sure if this is where it should be or not, but it was rising as the truck cooled off.
Anyway, I'm not sure if I just tested the sensor incorrectly or if there could be another issue. A friend of mine suggested that the thermostat may have gotten stuck or something, but it doesn't seem like the gauge would switch at all if that were the case. What I should check to try and fix this.
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I suspect the power may not be getting thru the GEM. Gonna take it to get the GEM codes read to make sure - not looking forward to spending the $ to replace the whole darn gem if it is indeed the problem. Any success story of ever try bypassing the gem or taking power from another switched source?
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I recently bought an 02 Excursion. The front seats have been swapped to Lariat seats. (I'm assuming to get the 40/20/40 seats which I love considering I have 7 kids and need to haul 9 people.) When I bought it I noticed right away that the power mirrors don't work. Noticed a few days later that the rear speakers weren't working either. Under the driver seat (its power and heated seat) I found the connector that went to the rear audio controls on the previous console.
I spliced the wires for the rear speakers and they are working now I tried replacing the switch for the power mirrors and still nothing. Could this problem be related to the seat swap or is this a total separate issue? I've got to get a new test light to check for power to the switch...the bulb is blown in mine. Assuming that I check the power wire (orange w/ light green, right?) and it is fine, what's next?
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So on my 2001 excursion v10 my power door locks won't work. The 30amp fuse under the hood is blown and originally thought it was simply the fuse. No biggie picked up a new fuse... yay it works! Well it did for 2 locks and 2 unlocks then blown. So after reading I suspected it was the resistor inside the door lock actuator. So I did the free mod (taking them all apart and using foil instead of a resistor) got done last night popped in a new fuse... 2 locks 2 unlocks and a blown fuse. So I feel like I wasted a bunch of time doing the resistor mod but whatever,and now im back where I started. So right before this problem started originally one of my boys was messing with the number pad on the driver door. Not sure if its related just thought I'd put that in for out there.
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My driver side on my 00 x works for the the front 2 windows but not the rear and no other door switch works the windows ...
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The only control that is working on my driver's seat is the heat. The other controls are not working. I've checked the fuses and tried to recline the seat but that didn't fix. Is there something else I should be looking at?
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All my power windows aren't working along with my after market radio. All the fuses are good
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Driver's side power seat not working correctly. It moves fine when I am not sitting in it, but as soon as I sit in it, it doesn't want to work (the motor starts to engage, albeit weakly, then stalls). I have never worked on a seat before, so I don't even know where I should start looking to fix the problem. 2005 Ex Limited. And is there a part I should be focused on? And how the heck do I dissassmble it? I've seen the seat's diagram, but I really can't tell by that how to take the seat apart.
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My 2003 has the tow mirrors. When using the power mirror control they seem to go opposite of what is intended. So when I want it to go up, it will go out and down. Or something to that effect. What the culprit could be?
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Picked up a 2001 Excursion a few weeks ago. Trying to sort out some of its issues. The rear HVAC seems to only blow one temperature... Luke warm. Front A/C and heat work fine. I checked the temp blend actuator and it seems to work fine. The rear expansion valve gets cold and there is condensation that drips from the rear. What else I can check?
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I have a 2000 EX 7.3L ... The power windows aren't working and neither is the interior lights. I am hoping it is a couple of fuses. Problem is that I can't find a fuse diagram and I don't have any knowledge about changing the fuses. Do I need to change them both under the hood and under the dash? Which fuses I need to look at changing?
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I was going up a little grade a couple days ago and the engine suddenly quit, the temperature and oil light came on, the heat gauge buried on hot, and it threw a code. I pulled over and it was still idling so I made a U-turn but it was in limp mode and would only go about 10 MPH, so I made it home and put water in it so it's good now but it still says service engine soon. What is the code going to say and am going to have to pay to get rid of it. (the light). I have a new cap coming.
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On a 1999 Excursion with a v10. I've got a strange problem. When the truck is left overnight, the battery is dead. Doing some testing, the is a serious draw through the dome light circuit that controls the Gem and the Tail Lights. If I pull that fuse each night, then the battery is fine. But I can't leave that fuse out, as the shifter interlock switch is disabled by this fuse. All the tail lights seem to work fine.
Dome lights do not come on. I've tested the bulbs. They're good. There is now power it seems to the dome light sockets. The door ajar light works, so I'm guessing all the switches are good.
I also have no power windows working. There is no 12v to the switch. But I heard about the Gem module as well. So I'm not sure if the Gem controls if there should be 12v to the switch all the time.
I pulled out the Gem. It looks good. No sign of corrosion or water.
Any thoughts on what to look for or how to troubleshoot this? Is there a way to test a Gem? Would a bad Gem cause the battery draw down?
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I have a problem here which isn't funny around 30F. The engine temperature act quite normal after a cold start, but the heating inside is disabled somehow. So I can select any temperature in the front and back, but it stays cold.
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I have received a code twice during really cold weather and I think it is P0125. This says that the cylinder head temp. sensor is recording too low of operating temperature. The question is two fold. What happens if you do not change it? Second I have read that you have to remove the whole intake manifold to replace it. Any easier way to replace it than removing the whole intake manifold? I have looked for the darn thing and can not even see where it is located.
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My power door lock switch in the drivers door stopped working (not the actuator problem, but the actual switch would unlock, but not lock the doors)
I started to research if it could just be simple corrosion and decided to spray the contacts with CRC electronics cleaner. It completely fixed it.
Next, my parking brake light sensor stopped working so I did the same and it fixed it.
I began to research cleaning contacts and found a number of people in the automotive forums who basically spray contact cleaner on every electrical connection they ever touch.
I will do this in the future. The only part I wonder about is if there is something better to spray on them to prevent further corrosion in the future. I used dielectric grease but it would be nice to just spray the thing down. However, CRC does say their electronic cleaner prevent future corrosion.
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Having a problem with my temperature gauge inside the truck. No matter how far or long I drive, the needle barely moves off of cold. Would the thermostat be the likely suspect? If not, what else could it be? There is no "check engine" light on and my ODB2 reader reads a temp of around 70c solid. If it is the thermostat, where is this part located in the car and would I need to replace JUST the thermostat or are there gaskets/housing-type things involved as well.
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I have a 1992 Aerostar 3.0L end my temperature gauge on the dash doesn't move at all. Stays all the way to the left. I read on other forums that to make sure the gauge and the wiring are ok, i need to connect the wire that goes to the sensor unit to the negative of the battery. Gauge should go all the way to hot when the ignition switch is put to on position. That was exactly my results. So, i replaced the temp sensor unit but still gauge doesn't move. I didn't use any sealant on the threads when i installed the sensor. Connector looks ok. The engine warms up fine. I really don't know what else to think or do.
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Temperature gauge quit working after changing the thermostat and coolant.
With the engine off, I disconnected the single wire from the temperature sending unit and switched on the ignition without starting engine. The gauge pointer stayed in at the Cold mark. Using a Jumper wire, I grounded the sending unit wire and the needle on the gauge went to the Hot mark.
I quickly turned off the ignition, and replaced the sending unit with a SW-2328 (F1SZ-10884-A) Temp Sender. Warmed up the engine, but still no reading on the dash gauge.
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2002 ford sport trac.I have been having an ongoing issue that started with the engine cranking but would not turn over until an hour passed. After replacing multiple parts (cam shaft sensor, crankshaft sensor, ignition pack) I am now down to poor fuel economy as the last of the issues (roughly 12 in the city and 15 highway). I was told the issue may be the engine coolant temperature sensor going bad so I decided to replace it. I found this was very difficult due to it being a plug and locking pin design and in a very tight spot in the engine.
I tried to purchase a replacement and the parts store kept trying to insist on selling me a part with threading. I finally found someone that figured out the issue and found the part for the 2001 sport trac had the same plug style with clip that did fit but was shaped a little different on the sensor end which I assume was due to being aftermarket. I noticed that there were two plugs side by side and the one easiest to access was on the left and I was told the one on the right was the sensor that gave the temperature reading to the gauge.
After installing the engine coolant temperature sensor I found the temperature gauge on the dash now will not respond and is sitting below the cold end of the gauge completely off. Is it possible this is because the part was for a 2001? Is the sensor on the left (passenger side) the engine coolant sensor?I would hate to put the old sensor back in just to test if that's the issue due how difficult it was to put that locking pin back on. What to check that could resolve the gauge issue before pulling this sensor back out?
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