Ford Excursion :: No Left Blinker On Trailer
Jan 21, 2016
Hooked up the trailer today for the first time, i have running lights, right turn signal, and no left blinker. left bulb looks good. dual filament. #6 fuse inside truck looks good, can't figure out why no left blinker... trailer worked fine on my previous truck. Not sure what to tackle next..
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I also have a problem with my left blinker and my break lights. My right blinker works just fine, but my left blinker and break lights will not come on unless I pull the blinker switch forward a bit- as if I'm going to turn my brights on.
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The blinker in my 98 Mazda B4000 does not deactivate when turning right/left. The multi-function switch was replaced last year with an OEM part.
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My left side rear blinker/ brake light is not working. The running/taillight side/filment of the bulb works, but the brake/blinker side/filament does nothing ! Just bought the truck used and it's my only issue, waiting on a owners manual, but I think each bulb is fused separate, and since half the bulb works, can I rule out the fuse and start chasing wires ??
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Well, during the day my blinker is fine, but during the night, it will stay on. The right blinker is fine, and this only happens at night. Also, when I turn on my right blinker, the mileage lights blink!
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2010 F-150 owner. Why my left trailer-stop/turn will not work on any of my trailers. This issues has happen to me in the past due to a wire grounding out in one of my trailers, I have fixed the issue in the past by changing the 20amp trailer/tow fuse, this time the fuse looks fine and I am still not having any luck finding the issue. I have went through my manual to see if it could be a different fuse and they all seem to check out ok, I have also messed around with the relays and they seem to be fine too?
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I went to drive and noticed left turn blinker was hyper blinking. Left front bulb is burned out. Is this a normal feature to hyper blink when a bulb goes out?
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My wife's '07 has that fast-blink thing going on with the left turn signal. The thing is, none of the bulbs are out. It does appear that the front ones are dimmer than the ones on the right (which work fine).
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My Jeep blinker will sometime blink quickly (double or triple the normal)and will not blink in the front left marker. Is this a socket problem or a dust/dirt issue?
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The left turn signal blinker on Toyota works sometimes and not others. It is weird, it seems when the weather is cold, it works, warm weather it works sometimes.
The car is: 2002 Toyota 4-Runner, limited....
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My left turn signals have went out again on the rear of my truck and trailer. I replaced a body control module about three months ago and now its done it again. It has not blown any fuses. Why this is happening.
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Inconsistent connection through 7 wire plug and no taillights on four wire plug.
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Last week we were camping, the site we were on had a downhill slope to it. Since I had to reverse and align my trailer with the hookups I remember hearing something on here about putting it in 4WD before trying to reverse up hill. As I did this and slowly reversed I started getting smoke, nice and white with a little bit of a burnt smell to it but not bad. There was also some slightly mucous liquid on the ground that had almost no smell and a slight red tint to it. I freaked out thinking my transmission was shot but after reparking (doing a loop and staying in drive) there were no more leaks/drops and issues. I've driven another 500 miles since then and notice no difference shifting. How to avoid it
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I am putting a winch on my trailer and I got an optima marine battery to run the winch. I would like to wire it into my trailer wiring so that it will charge off the truck while its running, but so that it won't draw off the truck's wiring while I'm winching... I'm worried about the size of the wire and the fuse on the factory hitch wiring. I'm probably not going to be doing any extended winching, just pulling things up on the trailer. I may just unhook it from the wiring whenever I'm winching?
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So on our trip up here I experienced a strange problem. Normally when I apply my brakes my trailer brakes kick in via the controller. This time when I apply the brakes I'm only getting my truck brakes. I can still use the brake controller manually to slow down but it's worrying. What is going on.
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My tail lights and dash lights only work when I hit the brakes, or when the left blinker is on. When the blinker is on, the dash lights blink on and off with the blinker. When braking they stay on until I step off of the brake pedal.
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I have a 2005 Dodge Caravan. The blinkers have stopped working...sometimes. Sometimes I put the right blinker on and the left starts blinking, sometimes both left and right work normally, but most of the time neither work. The hazards work all of the time. What I should do, or where to begin.
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Does the Excursion charge the battery on my travel trailer while driving? I never boondocks but have a new electric tongue jack and wonder about that. I know it charges with a shore line I just assumed it did while driving too.
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2000 7.3 180,000 miles. It sounded like I was in passing gear from the turbo but not as loud or strong. The tach never moved like it would if it was in passing gear. We kicked it in and out of overdrive, pushed the O/D, no change. Then while driving it would just go quite/back to normal. Oh forgot, this was while pulling a cargo trailer with a total weight of about 4,500 lbs...
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What is the color wire coming out of the fuse box for the Trailer Tow Battery Charge? It's number 115 in the fuse box and a 20amp FMX fuse I believe. It's a 2005 6.0l 2WD Eddie Bower Excursion...
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So I finally towed our new to us travel trailer home tonight and the spot I created at my house to park it in required a lot of backing to get it shoe-horned in its place. As I was almost finished I smelled a burning smell and my wife said she saw some smoke from under the hood. I had neglected to look at my newly installed trans temp gauge during all the maneuvering as I was watching my mirror and the trailer so closely.
The gauge had reached ~180F and it was only about 55F outside. I know this violated the ambient plus 100 rule, so I allowed it to idle and cool down to 140 or less. When I got the trailer unhooked and the Ex back in the garage I crawled under it and the smell was definitely burnt tranny fluid and it was coming from the front of the bell housing or the access hole for the torque converter, not 100% sure.
So my question is, have I toasted my tranny, or was it just a mild overheat situation and it will recover just fine? If I am towing and the trans temp gets above 180 again will it start leaking most likely? Is it just something like a pump seal that I could drop the tranny and replace relatively easily, or have I most likely done internal damage. Hoping I did not just cost myself a tranny build on a truck with only 73k miles :-(.
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