Ford Excursion :: No Insulation On Tube Coming Of The AC Compressor
May 5, 2012
I noticed the tube coming of the AC compressor (I think that's what it is called) have no insulation on them and are open in the engine compartment. I can't stand how poor the AC is already, so I'm looking at insulating them. What I could put on them that would be effective yet safe in the high heat of being under the hood?
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Just having a little stereo work being done and noticed a wet floor under the insulation after removing the rear side panel covering the a/c unit. Is that normal? I read some folks have had to seal the fan box...is that most likely the issue?
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So I just don't have any luck with anything turbo related. Last time it was my intercooler that went out. Now the passenger side intercooler tube keeps popping off and the damn clamp is broken so I can't tighten back up to even get me to the damn truck stop. I guess it could be worse...it could be late at night and raining...oh what, it is.
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I changed the shift tube in my Excursion today. I'm trying to put the key switch back in. It will go in and rotate fairly hard. I can not get the key to release. When I hook the battery back up, everything functions as it should but it won't start, the key won't release and it still turns hard. The dash lights come on and such when the key is turned to run. I tried a different key with the same results. Everything looks good.
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I've got smoke coming out of my oil dipstick tube. 1996 Mercury Mystique 2.0L automatic, 62000 miles. I noticed a burning oil smell after a short (10 mile) drive, and checked the oil when I got home. A few wisps of smoke smelling of burning oil came out of the dipstick tube when I removed the stick. I was just curious how worried I should be about this.
As far as I can tell, my cooling system works (radiator hoses are warm, good hot air from the vents, thermostat and coolant recently replaced, hoses inspected, no leaks) and I'm not thinking the burnt oil is caused by overheating. There hasn't been any noticeable oil consumption, and I'm pretty diligent about checking the oil on this old car. Oil changes every 3000 miles since I've owned the car; dealer performed scheduled maintenance for the old owners.
Here's my thinking: a worn piston ring allowing oil to be burnt and then sucked back through into the crankcase. When I changed my spark plugs, I did notice an oily residue on one of the plugs (cylinder #1), which also leads me towards a piston ring diagnosis (though I was hoping it was a valve seal causing the oily spark plug, or even a spark plug seal). Do a wet compression test is in order, or should I go ahead and get a leakdown test? I am going to buy a compression tester, but I do not have an air compressor to use with the leakdown tester; I'd have to take it to a shop.
I do need to service the PCV system (and would have done it today, but the parts hadn't arrived at the store) -- would a PCV problem cause the oil to burn, though?
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My 98 mountaineer keeps throwing rear end oil out the vent tube.. Why does it keep doing this?? its been doing this for a while and had to change an axle seal, I think because of this. It stopped doing this for a little while after I changed the seals and put in new oil.. Its not over full.. When it stopped I figured it was because the oil was old and was foaming or something.. But now its back to doing it again... The tube is not plugged.. Why does it keep doing this???
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I own a 2004 F-150 FX4 5.7L V8, I notice this morning that I had gear oil coming out of my rear Axle Vent Tube. What would cause this issue? I'm kinda at a loss as to what would cause it.
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I have a 2001 7.3 and have found the engine oil dipstick coming out of the dipstick tube by 6 - 8 inches on three different occasions. Did not think much of it until my other 2000 7.3 did the same thing.
What causes this as afraid it will come all the way out and get into the serpentine belt.
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So after a hot drive yesterday we thought to do some googling about our clutch cycling on and off so fast. Yep, the airgap was out of spec. Fixed that.
Then we added some refrigerant to the truck. The truck is "new to us" and this is our first summer with it so not sure what might've gone on previously with the AC. Didn't take long to find a rather sizable leak. :P
See that metal tube going into the "spongy" area? Yeah, that's where it seems to be coming out. That tube is the only one that's cold, the rest are ambient temp. We fix a lot on our jeeps, but the AC system is naturally a bit out of our wheel house since it's not something you normally tangle with. Is this an easy fix? Or do we need to take it in to get serviced?
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My friend is working on a 2004 6.0 F-250 and it has used 75% of the coolant in the overflow bottle in 5 days. Can't smell coolant either. The inside of the tailpipe is wet soot black and there are wet spots on the tube coming from the intercooler to the turbo at the turbo and the intercooler. He's thinking EGR cooler.
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Well I've thrown out the situation of having low freon for discussion earlier and of course consensus is a leak. I added freon by way of one of those guage on the can deals and it seemed to be mostly ok for a while. Today it was around 90 degrees--doggy and I were on a road trip. What started off as a comfortable trip became progressively warmer. I noted the rear air was blowing warm air--not "not as cold air" like what you'd expect from the vents being in the ceiling. Got back home and hooked up my new manifold gauges I had ordered which of course, were in metric.
Long story short, I added some freon but while the low side pressure seems to be in the proper range, the high side pressure is very low, as in not much higher than the low side. The compressor comes on for approximately 1 second and goes off. Both sides have a pressure drop when it comes on-maybe the low side dips a hair below ideal but I am perplexed-or actually lacking knowledge. I know this is going to be a professional's issue for me, but what could be going on. I read a little on the expansion valve but I guess I am wondering if there is anyway to narrow down the problem--guess it comes from always trying to learn stuff.
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I have a 99 alero. The temp runs right above the mid point and I get coolant over flowing out of the over flow tube. I have bought 2 caps and still the same problem. I have bleed the system thinking it was air trapped in the system after repairing a small heater hose. I thought that was the problem at first but I have repaired it and replaced the cap. But i'm still getting coolant coming out of the over flow tube.
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So while inspecting my CV grease explosion everywhere (pretty sure I tanked an axle), I noticed my crankcase breather tube was smoking, which I found to be odd. Is that normal? It looked kind of like exhaust...
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My hood insulation is ripped up and as one of those projects I never got around to. It has shredded and pieces are down in the valley and in the engine compartment. Some of it smells now because it has gotten hot. I would like to clean it out and replace the pad. What is the best way for me to clean it. Do I take it to a truck detailing place or just spray it with gunk and take it to a car wash. Also if the latter is the answer then does it matter if the truck is hot. Currently the truck is 30 miles from any car wash so I'm worried about washing it hot. I just realized though I have my pressure washer with me so I could use that. Recommendations?
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5.4L f250 is dead. Went through a small mud hole and the he truck just died. The muddy h20 was about 1/2 way up on my tires. After getting pulled out I checked the air filter and its dry. I did notice that the insulation on the hood was wet towards the back half of the engine. Guess maybe the fan sprayed it up there. Tried starter fluid with no luck. Just turns over. Also checked the fuel reset and its normal. Where should I start.
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I got a 04 V10 6.8L excursion with now all of a sudden the clutch won't engage in the compressor. Is there a shut off switch I don't know about or do I have to replace the whole compressor.
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Checked fuses, relays, low pressure switch, switch on high side line. Compressor runs and gets cold when voltage is applied to compressor.
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I have a 93 Volvo 850 N/A, there is white smoke coming out of the dipstick tube, not alot but enough, also there's like a white/ yellow foam on the dipstick tube, but the coolant has not changed, so im assuming its not a headgasket. I have cleaned out most of the vacuum lines and flame trap but cant find the pvc valve.
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So I was doing my coolant flush yesterday and turned on the heat, both front and rear, to move any old coolant out of piping and cores. I notice that the rear was not blowing as "warm" as the front.
I did notice that the compressor was clicking on and off the whole time. A/c pipes coming off of accumulator were freezing up/getting cold/frosty.
Is it normal for the compressor to do this when the heat is on?
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I have a F-250 4WD with 7.5L which has a MC/Holley 4180c sitting on top. It was getting very poor mpg (like 5-6 miles/gal) and then was getting harder and harder to start. This progressed rather quickly to not starting with fuel coming out of the primary vent tube. I suspect it has to do with the primary float stuck open. I was considering rebuilding the carburetor. Is this over reaction prematurely or is there something like float adjustment that may rectify all of the symptoms described. If a rebuild is in order what is the information I would need to ensure getting the correct rebuild kit. Info that I have so far from research is it is Motorcraft ID #E5HE-9510-MC.
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Having this problem, what to do to correct it? There is no hole in the boot and this just started about a year ago. Does not do it all the time.
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