Took the wife to work today, she has a big nail in her tire. The X started idling high at red lights, right before I dropped her off, It didn't want to change gears until about 3200 rpms. And change gears hard. About a Mile from home, X started driving normal again...
View 6 RepliesI just changed out my IAC. Truck is still idling too high. When I squeeze the host to the IAC it idles down. When I unplug the IAC the truck immediately dies.
Does the IAC talk to the the Throttle position sensor? Should this be my next part to change?
2002 F250 5.4L ....
My '00 V10 4x4 w/ 163k miles has had a rough shift from 2-3 (30-40 mph) with high rpms. If I let off the throttle before the shift I can get it to shift smooth, but if I don't let off the throttle it can shift really hard. I only have this issue from 2-3 and it has not gotten worse since I bought the rig almost two years ago. Driving conditions are around town on occasion and for towing a 3k pound pop up. Maybe 2k miles a year so far? The hard shift happens whether towing or not.
I have done just a drain and fill on the trans fluid a year ago. Have not had time to change the filter (even though I have read it's not necessary). I am planning on doing another drain and fill soon along with the filter since I have one and cleaning out the trans pan.
When searching on FTE I read a post about the accumulator springs that can go bad and was wondering if maybe this is the problem? Since I am planning on doing the filter change I was going to do the spring replacement while the pan was open.
Lately (within the last couple of days) when we park the Excursion we have a difficult time getting it out of park and into gear whether it is going in to Reverse or Drive the gear shift does not want to move.
I have not forced anything at any time but eventually with some pumping of the brake pedal and some putting into park and out of park we can free it up. This is something that happened virtually overnight and once we are in gear everything is normal.
What is causing it? I am making an assumption that it has to be some switch in the steering column but I am no mechanic and only guessing.
Got 2004 v10 and my truck shifts hard into 2nd gear when starting off slow. If I take off at a faster pace it does not do it.
View 2 RepliesI just installed a new offset high torque gear reduction starter on my 2000 Excursion, and I noticed it starts much faster, but it sounds like the starter is knocking against something. Is this a straight swap out with the old style starter, or do I need to modify something?
View 14 RepliesI recently purchased a 2004 Excursion Limited v10 with 129,000 miles.
It has developed a strange sound only when it is shifting to the high gear where the tach drops down to abour 1500 rpms.
It sounds like a 'whump' momentarily, but doesn't seem to be slipping after that. I don't know if the tranny fluid has been changed, although it looks clear on the dipstick.
One mechanic said they would not do a transmission flush on a vehicle with more than 75,000 miles because they didn't want to be responsible for tranny problems caused by doing that. What's going on?
Tranny started acting funny recently...shifting hard into reverse at first, then last night it was like it was stuck in high gear or slipping on the way home. Limped it home and took the following codes:
P0743 TORQUE CONVERTER CIRCUIT ELECTRICAL
P0750 SHIFT SOLENOID A MALFUNCTION
P0755 SHIFT SOLENOID B MALFUNCTION
P0760 SHIFT SOLENOID C MALFUNCTION
P0765 SHIFT SOLENOID D MALFUNCTION
P0962 PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID A CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
P0966 PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID B CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
P0970 PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID C CONTROL CIRCTUT LOW
2006 GX470 57000 miles loaded. I purchased this new and I was wondering if anyone on here can give me a bit of input on what you may think is going on.
My truck when merging onto a high speed roadway my truck doesn't seem to want to shift into the next gear. Almost like if it was a manual I would have to shift it. It really whines out before it shifts.
Also My husband is hearing a humming/vibration from the rear when we are doing about 65 steady I've already had my tires removed and checked to see if I may have thrown a weight or a broken belt but everything is good. I have Michelins on the truck and they are about 2 yrs old. No damage on the tires I have them rotated every 5000 miles.
I had the truck in for service and told them about this. The Lexus service rep told me his mechanic told him he found nothing. I asked them to check again and he said the mechanic would take it home to drive it at a speed that was needed. Again I was told nothing was found. Got the truck back from the seat repair don't even think the truck was taken home.
For some strange reason, my T-reg has set itself to 0.00 psi on all four tires. I went into the program and attempted to have it reset. The tire pressure "off" icon appears at the top of the screen and upon start-up the annunciator states that it is recalibrating. How long does it typically take to recalibrate before you get a psi reading on the tires? Shouldn't it come immediately? It still has not recalulated after 5 miles. Should I have VW service take a look at it or is their a simple adjustment I can make?
View 5 RepliesI changed the bulbs in my fog lights as the older ones were very dim. Went to fire them up and nothing. tracked down the fuse under the steering wheel (43 I believe) and it was blown. replaced the fuse, still no fog lights. Checked new fuse, and it is fine. changed it with a different one (you never know) and still no fog lights. Is there a separate fuse/relay somewhere else that I may be missing?
View 6 RepliesMy car recently started running overtemp not much, but enough to bother me. I flushed the system with no change. after about a week with continued symptoms, my trans started shifting hard between 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd, and running rough in general, sputtering lightly in high gear. I assumed it was running over temp with the rest of the car, so I replaced the radiator and the radiator cap, yet still am having the same problem. Is it still related to the cooling system? if I replace the water pump will i solve my problems, or is it really a hidden trans problem? I'm fairly certain the trans has never been serviced, and I'm reluctant to do so given the high milage, 174,000. The fluid is full, but its very thin, and no longer red, its sort of a pale yellow.
View 19 Repliesmy EX is a 2000 XLT 6.8 4WD I have 146,000 on it. Last week I replaced the expansion tank with a new one, went just fine no leaks, new prestone at 50/50, today she overheated to the red so I changed the thermostat, still overheating, no leaks fluid level good. What am I missing ????
View 14 RepliesI had the belts changed on my 2004 Infiniti G35 6-Speed Sedan according to the mechanics advice (they were cracked quite a bit). Now that they're changed they make an annoying squeaking noise which is particularly awful when idling with my windows open. When I took it back, he said the pulleys need to be replaced and they are already at maximum tension. They did not squeak before the replacement. Is he right? Or did he just put in a belt that's longer than it should be?
View 4 RepliesI've been having trouble with my 2000 EX recently, I've had to replace the serpentine belt 3 times in the last year and a half. Nothing looks out of place but I really don't know enough about this engine yet to say that conclusively. I've been using the regular belts from napa, so this time I ordered the HD belt. Is there something that I need to look at that maybe misaligned that could be shredding these belts
View 13 RepliesI have a 1999 Pontiac sunfire. It had just over 85,200 miles. I took it in to have an oil change and the front passenger tire changed. I didn't notice it till the next day. My odometer stop displaying. What could have happened to it? How can I fix it?
View 9 RepliesCould my brake issue be related to my transmission problem? Neither are constant. Brake problem= sometimes the brake pedal feels hard, like there's no power brakes (I drove a car once. ..looong time ago. .. that had no power brakes or steering) but it will kick in after a short distance. Transmission prob= seemingly unrelated, is a problem shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. This has happened maybe a 1/2 dozen times, the first time and mostly when in heavy commute traffic and when going between 1st and 2nd gear because of the slow commute speed, but also at other times when not in lengthy slow commutes. When it doesn't shift, the odometer doesn't work (shows only dashes) and an engine light comes on (the sprocket/gear looking one). Usually the transmission will eventually shift and the light goes off.
I read that the brake problem might be a vacuum hose problem? Something about a booster? Is this dangerous? or is it like having a car w/ no power brakes? Going to have my transmission looked at this week. Read on another site about dropping valve seats on this year car. If there's a major transmission problem, I'm wondering if it's worth fixing? I changed, timing belt, water pump, front and rears brakes, tires. 143,000 miles.
I have a 2004 jetta gls wagon with a 1.8t. the car ran just fine and had a tune running 16psi strong. I changed the battery in it and now the car wont boost, bogs out and SLAMS hard from gear to gear ( auto 5 speed ). I don't have vag com. I just need to get the car to drive with out it. Even if i get back to factory tune im ok with it.
View 8 Replies I have a 2005 Ford Ranger 4.0 V6 2wd Edge, with around 175,000 miles. It runs great, however the RPM's are slow to return and it seems to idle a little high for longer than you would expect when starting the engine. For example, exiting off the freeway with the clutch depressed, the RPM's will drop from approximately 2300, pause at 1800 for a second, then drop and pause at 1100 for a few seconds before returning to idle. If stationary and rev the engine, they seem to drop back normally.
So far I have changed the IAC valve and checked for vacuum leaks (not sure how exhaustive a check it was but sprayed every joint I could find). My mechanic agrees that it is abnormal, but has suggested that we wait for it to worsen enough to throw a code rather than spend a lot of time and money replacing things that may not be a problem. Also the throttle cable appears to be functioning normally and not sticking.
I've been having pretty serious issue with my truck lately, and it involves the idle being way to high. The strange thing is, it only idles high after I give it gas. But, the idle (after I lift off the petal completely) is almost as high as the engine speed while I was giving it gas. The carb is a motorcraft 2100 (I just re-built it) with climatic choke.
I've adjusted the choke to no end, and it seemed to have an effect on it at first, but now the problem has just gotten worse. I'm thinking its something in the throttle linkage. Also, when I put my foot under the gas petal and lift up, the idle instantly slows back down. I'm thinking I'm missing a return spring somewhere in the linkage, so heres some photos I took:
I can't drive it like this, and the problem is getting frustrating. It ran fine before I re-built the carb too, except, that it leaked gs all over the place.
I just had my solenoid changed and I changed the OD relay and my car still doesn't shift into 4th gear. Could the garage have put the solenoid on backwards? my switch on the shifter was replaced with a toggle switch from autozone. My volvo has 230K miles and it is a 1990.
View 17 Replies