Ford Excursion :: Motor Would Rev To 2500 RPM Upon Start Up
Apr 17, 2017
2000 V10 with no CEL codes.
Upon start up the motor would rev to 2500 rpm. So I thought IAC.
Unplugged the IAC to rule it in and the motor still reved to 2500 at start up....so naturally I spent an hour looking for a vacuum leak. Did not find one.
By shear dumb luck I decided to double check the IAC. Using a set of visegrips I clamped the intake hose to IAC almost closed. And motor started up and idled at 1000 rpm. I could vary rpm by varying the amount of IAC hose left Un clamped.
So moral of the story is IAC can fail in the open position too. Allowing too much air past valve and high rpm.
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My 1.8t motor is still ticking around 2500-3500rpm. I have changed the oil with 5w-40 mobil1 no even 75 miles on oil change, Brand new oil pump with tensioner and chain. oil pick up tube cleaned and good. new plugs about 75 miles on them as well. Always ran 93 octane (highest I can get at my gas station) Only thing left that I can think of is my cam tensioner is bad.
When I accelerate up to speed it starts ticking but as soon as I let off the throttle it will stop get back on the gas it starts again.
Stockish 2000 gti 1.8t 5 speed. short ram intake.
Is there a way to tell if the cam tensioner is bad? .
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I have a relatively new to me Excursion. It seems to run well and shift well but recently I've become very aware of a strange hum, thrum, and vibration in the floor boards. The sound and vibration have a definite cadence/pulse.
Here is what I have observed trying to source the sound. Occurs around 2500 rpm and continues up to 4000 haven't really gone past 4k to know about after that.
Occurs in Park, neutral and drive and is more noticeable under load especially when towing. It is not really noticeable under my normal driving style it gets lost in the running gear until the X is at around 3600 RPM's which typically doesn't happen unless I'm pulling a long grade with a trailer. It was only after testing at a standstill in park and neutral that I realized it actually starts at approximately 2500.
Other than the vibration and low frequency hum starting at 2500 there are no real indicators of reduced performance or other problems but it's got me nervous.
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I have a 2003 excursion... it is a v 10and just yesterday there was a whistling noise. I parked the vehicle and idle it slowly but no noise. I drove it again n the noise was there again. So the noise is there at 2000-2500 rpm. I'm wondering if its my exhaust manifold?? Also I'm starting to loose power. When running and in parked it shut off.
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Just purchased a new to me 2003 Ex with the 6.0. The rear AC motor is not working at all. No hot air blowing...nada. I swapped out the 40 amp fuse for the auxiliary blower and still no luck. What should my next move be?
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Well my blower motor only blows on high which IMO points to the resistor, went and bought one and still only blows on high. Tried to test the plug that goes to the resistor but couldn't get anything, shouldn't there be 12v going to the plug and then step down to the resistor until high is selected then 12v bypasses the resistor all together? Blows strong and cold, too cold actually since we cant turn the blower down so we have to turn it off for a few minutes.
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My dodge truck won't start. I replaced the fuel filter and that cured it for a week then it would't start again.Took it to a mech. and they scaned it with there computer and diagnosed it as a lift pump issue as the pressure was a bit low. Replaced the pump and that worked for 4 days, now it won't start again.
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I am a proud new owner of a 2000 X 6.8l 2wd with the 4.3 rear end .
I have had the truck for 2 weeks now . When I bought her , she ran a little rough but I expected as much after sitting for 6 months ... After driving her home I began to start a massive tune up , because she was acting like there was a miss ... The miss only started after she was at normal operating temp and at first only when at cruising speeds in overdrive on the freeway , it progressively got worse ... The miss became all the time once up to normal operating temp but will do it wether she is in any gear or even park .... Oh and the miss is NEVER at the same time it is always completely random ...
I have changed all 10 coils , all 10 plugs , the PVC valve , and I am changing the fuel filter this afternoon ... Other then that I think I can hear a vacuum leak , but I have tried spraying carburetor cleaner around the engine bay as instructed by a " ford expert " at the local auto parts store and I did not notice any change ... After I install the new fuel filter I am going to fill her full of 93 octane and add a bottle or 2 for Lucas octane boost as well as the Lucas injector cleaner ...
Other then these things I am at a complete loss ! This is my first v10 ford so I am a little at a loss ... Now if this was my wife's BMW 760 or my Lexus IS 300 I would not be having this problem.
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My blower motor runs with the key out on all speeds in my excursion. Replaced blower relay in hood fuse box. NO FIX. As I move climate selector to off and turn key to acc. and off it will turn off the blower. If I turn the selector to any position such as vent or heat with the key out, blower runs thus drains the battery. Do I have to replace the whole climate pod?
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My TC motor picked today of course with the snow to go bad. Luckily I hobbled to advance right as they were about to close and got one. I laid in the snow and changed it. Needless to say I got soaked beyond belief. Anyways now it changes in and out well but still seems way to loose in the rear. Not sure if something else is malfunctioning or if these things are like that. Right now I don't feel nearly as safe as I did in my expedition and that was without even using 4hi or low just the A4WD. The excursion is sliding everywhere. My tires have great tread but are highway tires so maybe that's the issue. They are Dura Grapplers. I'm going to try throwing some weight in the rear to maybe gain some traction.
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I replaced the motor mounts, and now there is a vibration at speed (70 or so). I've taken it to Michigan and back, so it is probably broken in. Can these things be put in improperly?
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I have a 2005 Eddie Bauer 4X4 with the 6.0 and Automatic Temperature Control. I need a new blower motor control module, and have been confused by what I have been able to find online. What is the full Motorcraft part number, or other information so I can get one.
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It started with the blower motor that wouldn't turn off by itself when the truck was turned off. I forgot to turn the fan off one night and woke up to a dead battery. Got my dad to come give me a boost and it would turn but not start and the anti theft light in the dash was blinking fast.
Later in the day I got another boost and it started right up.
This was yesterday... after the last boost and startup I went and got a few things, stopped to get gas... started back up fine each time.
Last night I was greasing zerks and making sure everything in the front end was nice and tight when the abs module started clicking... and the anti theft started blinking and truck wouldn't start. Left it alone and went to bed.
This morning I boosted it and it started fine. Later in the day it wouldn't start again because of the anti theft. Gave it 5 minutes and it started. Stopped to get gas... wouldn't start (anti theft)... started after about 5 minutes.
On the way back home... it's been making this 5 beep, pause, 5 beeps, pause sequence so I pulled it into the garage and turned it off now the locks are locking/unlocking by themselves randomly, the beeping is on and off, anti theft light blinks for a few minutes then goes away only to come back...
I've been told to remove the fuse box under the hood and check to make sure all connections are clean... I've searched and seen possible solutions ranging from a dirty connection to needing a new GEM module and apparently sometimes just a low voltage situation will cause our trucks to act nuts...
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I have a 1998 Chevy K2500 with a 350 engine. 220,000 miles. It starts fine when cold and drives fine. My problem is when I shut the engine off say to get gas or run into a store. When I return to start the truck it will just crank over as if it is not getting gas. If I pump the gas pedal it will fire up after a bit. It will start to stall if I put it into drive but will recover if I continue to pump the throttle. Once I am under way it drives fine until I make another stop. The check engine light is not on.
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So i bought an excursion 3 or 4 days ago and yesterday I went to install a double din dvd receiver. As I was installing something shorted out and I blew the radio fuse. No big deal or so I thought. Got the radio in and replaced the fuse but then the X wouldn't start. Went through everything and found a 5 amp fuse and a 15 amp fuse blown as well. Turns out the 15 amp fuse is for starter motor or something. Well I replaced the fuses and they kept blowing. Unhooked the radio completely and still keep blowing and the X is still obviously not starting. Pulled every relay I could in hopes something would reset and nothing. Any clue what it could be at this point?
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2000 Ex 5.4 v8
Had 2 coils go bad last week. Got them replaced. Today I am on the turnpike doing 70 and my oil light comes on and oil pressure drops all the way. No engine noises and temp is OK so I coast to the next exit. Get off and go to the gas station in the corner. Turn the truck off...
Wait a few minutes, when I go turn it back on it wont start. The motor wont even turn. It just clicks.
I notice smoke coming from the wire that goes from the starter relay to the starter so my brother comes and gets me and we go to the nearest auto part store and buy a new relay.
Replace it and try to start it, same thing. Just clicks and smoke. My brother gets under the truck and taps the starter as I try to start it, no go. I am fearing the engine locked up. But no engine noises, clicks or clacks or anything. Battery is fine as well. Any thoughts on what else I can try?
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Could not find anything about this on a search. I have 2 Sonatas. An 08 and an 09 both are 4cylinders. The 09 was purchased used in June of this year. With the colder weather setting in I have noticed that the 09 when started from cold jumps to 2500 rpm and settles to around 1000rpm for a short time then slows down a bit more to what I think is the normal idle speed. My 08 never goes that high and settles down to a normal idle quicker. If I read correctly the 08 and 09 have different air metering systems. Is this idle thing normal or am I dealing with an issue?
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I just replaced the auto transmission in my 1988 accord and upon first restart the car will not idle. I has been sitting for about 6 months while I replaced the trans, but was a daily driver prior to that. The car initially starts fine when cold, but shortly after startup starts running very rich and dies. Restart after this requires the throttle pedal to be held down. Engine will start after some cranking - but will not run under 2500 RPM and is obviously very rich. I've rebuild carbs before so I'm thinking about picking up a rebuild kit - just wondering if there could be other parts of the fuel control system that might be at fault.
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Engine cranks but will not start, it kicks back after cranking over for a couple of times i have replaced the crank sensor it has done this once before it kicked back hard enough to knock a tooth off of the flywheel after replacing flywheel and starter it started fine for three months then it kicked back hard enough to break a starter mounting bolt. i replaced bolt had starter checked and replaced again?
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Mt truck will suddenly die while going down the road. I know it has a oil sensor and wont start or run with oil is low,but recently it just dies in the middle of the road or won't start after a drive of a few miles. After sitting for a few minutes it will usually start. This was happening a couple of times a day until this week when we have had ice and snow, we have been in four wheel drive for four days and it hasn't died or failed to start even once. Whats up with that ?
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I've got a "new" Blazer -95 4.3 vin W about a month ago. It has run about 170,000 km.
But now it looks like it was a bad buy, it runs bad. The rpm starts jumping between 1500 - 2500. Suddenly the break and ABS warning lights in dashboard lights up, and sometimes all black out and it stalls.
At first it started acting like this when towing a trailer on the highway, doing 80 km/h. But now it does it at any speed.
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