Ford Excursion :: Long Crank Required To Turn Over V10 - Fuel Pressure Dropped
Nov 13, 2014
Ok. So. 2005 excursion v10 270k miles. Never ever had an issue starting. Today it was about 30 degrees in Detroit. Had to crank for about 4 seconds. Usually it turns over within one second of cranking. So I get to work and hook up a fuel pressure tester to it. Got to 35psi while running, upon shutting off it dropped to 0 within 30 seconds. I have no codes. And absolutely no drive ability issues. No gas smell. And I'm really hoping its just z fuel pump check valve cause then I can just prime it by doing key on key off then crank...also hoping not injector cause I won't be able to pull the injectors till Sunday snd I really don't wanna hydro lock my motor >.< best way to test injector/fuel pump valve? I like to fix issues as soon as they pop up. Wanna get my v10 to 400k.
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I recently installed a glow shift fuel pressure gauge. All seems good.
@ idle 58-60 psi
@ WOT drops to 50 psi, no less.
Tonight I went to catch up to a car that had no lights on at all to tell them and during WOT fuel pressure gauge showed it dropped to less than 30! I let off immediately and it went right back up. I tried to repeat it with another go @ WOT and it would not go under 50 psi like normal.
Motorcraft fuel filters less than 3000 miles ago .. Blue spring installed over the winter.
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Well, I was cruising down the highway @70MPH and notice the fuel pressure gauge dropped down to 50 then back to 65. Kept watching the gauge and it would swing back and forth from 55 to 65.
Got off the highway. Nailed it at the light and watched the gauge drop to 53 and swing back to 65. Fuel pressure is not steady either. It swings back and forth from 52 to 65. Thinking the pump is on its her last legs? Truck got 194K on her.
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As the title says I am suddenly having a long crank when starting and low oil pressure when when warm (above approximately 100 degrees). IPR goes to 85% when cranking. Stored codes were P2290 and P2291. Other symptoms are low power and what sounds like a power steering pump with low oil whine and low power. (It is not power steering related however, I checked.) I pulled the oil filter and cranked engine and filter bowl filled in less than 10 seconds.
Oil did have a fair bit of air bubbles. Oil has 5000 miles and is Motorcraft 10w30 diesel. I have not added any since the last change. I do not have the new style pump so it's not the STC fitting. What my issue is? I do have AE if any other info is required. Particulars are in sig. The searches I have done combined with the mileage I have lead me to either the low pressure pump is failing, or the high pressure pump has lost the ball bearing out of the side.
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so all of a sudden when I turn the key it seems to have an extremely long crank to turn over, almost like im holding it down to long, i can turn it quick and let it go and it will catch, hold it longer than normal and let it go and it will still catch...took it to the dealer and had them scan the car but there are no codes/faults coming up......its been doing it for a week now and today it won't start at all, it just keeps on cranking but won't turn over but yet I still have codes or faults....battery is good cuz I had it tested as well.
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I was driving to a job this morning with my truck loaded with tile for a job and it just died.
It has power to the lights, radio, etc. But when I try to start it it does not even crank and it has no fuel pressure on the gauge and the pump is no running.
It is as if the truck has no power. When it died is was like I turned the key off and it just stopped.
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Periodically my X doesn't want to start. Doesn't even turn over or crank. The weird thing is, sometimes it acts like the battery is too weak and the radio will flash on or maybe I hear a fast kink-kink-kink sound. Other times, it's just dead, like it doesn't even have a battery in it. Eventually it works again and cranks like a charm. Starts right up.
The ground from the battery to the fender looks good. I noticed the ground from the frame to the body was gone, so I replaced that. Didn't change a thing. I'm reading all the things it COULD be and I'm getting frustrated. I hate electrical problems.
2000 V10 Excursion XLT, 180,000 miles
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2002 X w/ V10..
Drove to walmart the other day. Ran Great. Put a new battery in my spare key and tried it but anti-theft light came on. thought maybe battery was in backwards so turned it around and tried again still nothing. So tried original key and would not start. It would crank but not fire. (found a post stating that it was part of the anti-theft system to keep from just trying different keys) I let it sit for a little while and it started.
Drove home put new locking hubs in the front and took it for a drive. Started fine. Wife the next day went to work with it ran great. When she went to leave, it would not start. after about an hour it started for her and drove home with out issue. Next day I went out and it started for me first try. Then it started to just crank and never fire. After a while it started and I was able to start it a couple of times with out a problem then it stopped again. Since then I have not been able to get it to start.
I say I have no spark only cause I have tried to use starting fluid to at least get it to fire but nothing.. It doesn't sound like the fuel pump is kicking in either. Is there something that would shut these systems down that I am over looking..
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5.4L... So like many this winter, I had an intermittent crank no start issue. Thought it to be fuel related, based on low fuel pressure readings.
Now all new - battery, iac, cam sensor, fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, air filter. Cleaned maf, temp sensor and throttle body. Engine starts, but I don't know if the problem is solved.
Fuel pressure is 40 with key on, falls to 35 on start-up, (which seems ok) but then after a few seconds, the pressure drops to 26 where it seems to want to stay. Hitting throttle hard makes it fall to about 20. I can't find any leaks in the fuel lines. Truck seems to run fine while driving.
To me, this doesn't seem good. Engine is not throwing any codes, but the ST fuel trim is running 0 to +3, and as high as +9 on occasion.
Does the consistent drop to 26 sound normal? Should I dig more into it, or just forget about it since truck seems to be running fine?
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I own a 2003 Limited with the 6.8 V10. I drove the truck on Sunday and all appeared to be fine, gas gauge was setting just under a half tank. When I went to start it yesterday, it would not start. Strong crank, no start. I checked my fuse and it was fine. Fast forward to this morning, since I had kind of depleted the battery with attempting to start, I put my little jump start pack on it and gave it a whirl. Truck started fine but the gas gauge was sitting on empty. I had five gallons of gas in the garage so I added that to the tank then drove to the local gas station to add more fuel. I put another 10 gallons in the tank so it should have roughly 16 or 17 gallons in the tank. Gauge shows 3/4 tank but miles to empty is right around 175 miles which would seem right with 17 gallons in the tank. I suspect the fuel pump. I don't really want to spend $500 on the Motorcraft unit but was wondering if the group believes the Delphi or the Bosch units are quality replacement parts?
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Black Beauty finally gave up. Replaced battery, replaced fuel pump relay. Would only run with starter fluid sprayed into the air intake. She'll crank but not start. Here she sits at the dealership.
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1995 Ford Explorer, 4 ltr. engine, pushrod. Will not start. Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, every relay, pressure regulator, and the crank position sensor. I realize there's a whole bunch more parts under the hood, but I am ready to give up. Before the fuel pump would not run. Reason for replacing the parts. Now it won't stop running and you can feel the fuel by-passing at the pressure regulator. When checking the pressure at the rail I get zero !! I used a tire pressure tester for this. And, like I said no pressure. This vehicle has around 170,000 miles on it.
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I have a 2000 excursion with the 7.3 in it. When I turn the key it wont crank over but i can jump the selonoid and it will fire right up. I replaced the selonoid and I don't know what else it could be???
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On our 2005 Toyota Camry, we have recently noticed that the maintenance-required light takes a long time to go off when the ignition is cycled. This is true whether the engine is started immediately or the key is simply left in the ON position until proveout is completed.
The car is up to date on all services and we see no other signs of an impending problem. At the moment we do not have the ability to retrieve OBD-II diagnostic codes. What could be going on?
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Just had the tires rotated , then shop tech backs the X out of the shop, parks it and then hands me the keys. I hop in and turn the key , the truck turns over , but starts to shudder and buck, and fuel pressure gauge reads 0.
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I have a 1999 f350 7.3. Turn the key lights and fuel pump come on but the starter wont crank. I replaced the starter and checked all the fuses i could find. The only way I can get the truck to crank is by jumping the relay under the hood.
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2000 Ex 5.4 v8
Had 2 coils go bad last week. Got them replaced. Today I am on the turnpike doing 70 and my oil light comes on and oil pressure drops all the way. No engine noises and temp is OK so I coast to the next exit. Get off and go to the gas station in the corner. Turn the truck off...
Wait a few minutes, when I go turn it back on it wont start. The motor wont even turn. It just clicks.
I notice smoke coming from the wire that goes from the starter relay to the starter so my brother comes and gets me and we go to the nearest auto part store and buy a new relay.
Replace it and try to start it, same thing. Just clicks and smoke. My brother gets under the truck and taps the starter as I try to start it, no go. I am fearing the engine locked up. But no engine noises, clicks or clacks or anything. Battery is fine as well. Any thoughts on what else I can try?
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My 2004 f 150 heritage 4.6 l the oil pressure dropped all the way down i was in a drive thru and it was clattering really bad so i pulled into the parking lot and shut it down pulled the stick plenty of oil i re started about 30 minutes later and it pumped oil pressure. So I started on my way home the gauge would go to normal and when I would touch the brakes and let off the gas it would drop and the oil light would come on and the engine would start rattling and would have no power, I would pull over and do it over again and finally i just called a tow truck.
So I changed the oil new motorcraft filter and 5/30 motor oil , it started up made all kind of noise but i got oil pressure and quieted down i went to drive it and as soon as it started to roll the pressure dropped and the oil light came on and it started to rattle again. Whats happening is the pump going out ? can it be replaced with out pulling the engine? the truck has 200,000 miles on it
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I have a 96 aerostar with just over 100,000 miles. Recently, after driving about an hour at highway speeds I noticed the oil pressure dropped to zero when I came to a stop in a rest area. I immediately shut the van off and checked the oil, which was full.
After restarting the engine, the oil pressure gauge read normal again so I proceeded on my way down the road keeping a close eye on the gauge. Within minutes the gauge started fluctuating from zero to normal several times and then dropped to zero and stayed there. It sounded like I was getting some top end clacking (may have been my imagination) so I shut off the engine while driving and restarted it and the pressure gauge started reading normal again.
I drove to the next exit and figured it must be the sending unit acting up, so I checked the wiring at the unit for a possible loose connection and finished my 150 mile trip with no further issues with the oil pressure gauge. I have run the van locally on short trips but I am afraid of making any long distance runs without knowing for sure if it was the sending unit or perhaps another more serious problem.
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So I went to start my truck this am. Fired up fine. Put it in drive and the check advance track light came on, 2 minutes later the oil pressure dropped to zero and truck quit at the same time. Checked oil and it was good, repeated same process 3 times. I just let it idle for ten minutes then it was fine.
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03 EX, currently lifted 4" on 35's (34.8) with 3:73 non LS. Eventually I'll be going up a few more inches and going with some 37's. The plan first off was to do the lift, wheels and tires and do gears later on, mainly because I only drive about 150 miles a month. However since I don't have the limited slip and there is always a possibility of winter ice storms and 12" of snow on top of it I don't want to have 4wd with only 2 wheels spinning.
Looking at 4:88's and a trutrac. Question is do I need to pick up a tuner to adjust the shift points? I'm not worried about the speedo yet, can use the GPS for that. If I need a tuner I'll be going with 5 star.
I'll be going with this kit: D50 & 10.5" 4.88 Gears + Master Bearing Kits truetrac: Gonna do some shopping around for a better price. Also told about a valutrac which I'm still doing some research on.
10.25" & 10.5" Detroit True-Trac Differential Also new diff covers front and rear. Looking at an investment of around $2k installed and wondering if the additional $500 for a tuner is necessary right now.
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