Ford Excursion :: Lighted Tow Mirrors Don't Blink
Aug 31, 2012
I just swapped out my heated, lighted flag mirrors for OEM take off heated, lighted tow mirrors. I used the Ford adapter pigtail so it was a plug and play installation. The mirrors adjust but the turn signals don't work. The flag mirrors worked fine. I can't tell if the defrost works or not with either mirror.
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My driver mirror has small clip failed, only way is a new mirror. I found a pair of mirrors with heat like mine BUT they have the turn signal.
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I have searched many threads and seem to be confused. I have a 2000 excursion and unsure of exact plugs. I currently have the paddle mirrors that are heated and powered, and want to get the tow mirrors with heat and power. They don't need to have signals or power telescoping or folding. As long as they can manually fold. What is a good reliable mirror that will fit what I need?
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I recently bought an 02 Excursion. The front seats have been swapped to Lariat seats. (I'm assuming to get the 40/20/40 seats which I love considering I have 7 kids and need to haul 9 people.) When I bought it I noticed right away that the power mirrors don't work. Noticed a few days later that the rear speakers weren't working either. Under the driver seat (its power and heated seat) I found the connector that went to the rear audio controls on the previous console.
I spliced the wires for the rear speakers and they are working now I tried replacing the switch for the power mirrors and still nothing. Could this problem be related to the seat swap or is this a total separate issue? I've got to get a new test light to check for power to the switch...the bulb is blown in mine. Assuming that I check the power wire (orange w/ light green, right?) and it is fine, what's next?
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I have a set of Tow mirrors off a Laredo on my EX (they are the rounded ones and not square). They have the built in LED Turn Signals and (5 LED) marker lights in them.
The Driver's side marker light has quit working but I still have power to everything in the mirror. It was working but only on 2 of the 5 LED's. Now they are all not working.
Successfully "remove" the LED housing that holds the Turn Signal and Marker lights from the mirrors to repair or replace them? If they are removable, how do they come out? It looks like they just "snap" in place but I'm afraid to pry on them for fear of breaking the plastic leans....
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I have checked all fuses, checked wires on top of steering column all checked out ok. Hazards work but when I press brake tail lights just blink with no brake light but the 3rd brake light works??? Signal switch maybe??
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Ok, so I picked up some Recon clear lenses because both my amber lenses had cracks in them, and because I think they really cool.
I can't get these damned mirrors apart. According to the directions you shove a screwdriver in the three tabs behind the mirrors and push down and presumably out to separate the skin from the mirror. Problem is, I push down and out and nothing happens. Is there an order to this or what the heck am I doing wrong.
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I added signal paddle mirrors on my 2000 Ex. I found the left and right turn signal wires under the dash. The mirror led signal arrows light up but they do not blink. Do I need a separate relay or am I just missing something here? I did a search about adding mirrors and extra wires but nothing is mentioned anywhere about the blink/no blink remedy.
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Ive got a 2004 excursion Eddie bauer and I've got the non-towing paddle mirrors with power adjustment, heated, and turn signals. I want to put the 2008 style towing mirrors on that have power adjustment, heated, turn signals, and have the marker lights but not power fold or power telescope.
How I can wire these new mirrors to my factory wires? I understand that the marker light may have to be separately wired in, but all of the other functions I want to wire in to my existing wires.
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I have the small single heated mirrors on my '00 Ex. This is what I would like. To do the mirror conversion with the newer square signal/heated mirrors as easily as possible as I am NOT a mechanical genius by any means. They do NOT have to power fold OR power telescopic as my garage is large enough for my '11 F350 King Ranch to fit without folding them in. But I would like to find a direct easy plug n play type conversion for the signal and the power and heat to work. The EX just looks so dumb with those small mirrors and I want to see what's going on behind me.
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Bought some power tow mirrows, aftermarket, any special on installing?
2011 F150 Echoboost, 4 x 4
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I'm replacing tow mirrors on my 2004 F250 with 2008 mirrors. Both are factory Ford mirrors. Need wiring diagram since connectors and wires are different. They both have power mirrors, turn signals, heated mirrors, but are not power retract or fold.
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Ordered a 2015 f350 CCLB FX4 XLT 6.2 about 2 weeks ago.Tried to see if the control buttons on the steering wheel were lighted couldnt tell in the daylight.
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So the idea has been kicked around before, but to my knowledge no one yet has done it on FTE. That is, a lighted display switch for our chips that only lights up the current position. Well, I've got it done!!
First some pics, then read below for how I did it. First pics are in the light, the next two are how it looks in positions 1 & 5 at night.
Now, for how I did it. First off, I started with one of the lighted displays from BCPD. Each number has an individual LED behind it, so I could wire up each one for the position it's in.
The back of all the chips have 7 wires attached to it. One is black, it's in the middle, and it is a common ground to the chip. The other 6 wires are all position grounds. The switch works by grounding one wire to the black wire for the position you are in. If you look at where the wires plug into the chips, the one farthest away from the black is position #1, and they count up sequentially from there toward the black wire.
First thing is to unplug the the selector **** cord from the chip before doing any work. I acutally ordered a spare switch from Jody, just in case I screwed up something (which I didn't), I wouldn't be without my chip.
I took the black rubber off the back of the switch to access the soldered connections. I soldered the ground for each LED on the display to the appropriate pole with the wire connected to it on the back of the display. I had some CAT 5 ethernet cable lying around, and I used the wires inside of it for the ground from the switch to the display. You can use a DVM or continuity tester to check for continuity between the black wire and each position to veryify which wire belongs to what position. I ran the extra wires out the bottom of the rubber cover, along with the original wires.
For power, I only wanted the lights to be on at night. So, I tapped into the wire for the gauge lights, put a 1 amp inline fuse (old glass type fuse), and connected all the hot wires of the LED's so they are a common hot. The LEDs already had resistors wired into them, so I didn't need to add any more.
The fit for everything where I put it was a little tight, but I eventually got it to fit, as you can see. And all the lights do work, and show up quite well at night. The display works by having a common hot to all LED's and grounding the one that for the position it's in, completing the circuit and lighting the LED.
Some other ideas would be to wire up 6 different colored LED's to constant power and place them somewhere else, say in the A-Pillar, dash, or on the door to the inside of the mirror. So, you'd have a different color LED for each position. It's not limited to using the BCPD display, that's just what I already had. The creativity is up to you on how you'd choose to light things up for each position.
Finally, I did talk to Jody about doing this and any negative effects it would have on the chip. He said there would be none, since you're just pulling a ground from it. Also, if you use an LED, they are by design only allowing current to flow in one direction, since they are diode's already. But, to be on the safe side, I used the 1 amp fuse on the power wire. You won't need any bigger than that as the LED's don't draw very much power at all.
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Is there a headlight indicator on the dashboard? I do not see one (if my headlights are on, some kind of lighted indicator).
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Ok just bought this 2001 Prius One Owner new car trade in it sat for a month without moving It needed a boost to start it then the three lights on the display lighted up PS+Main Batt + a pic of the car with a ! in it ! is it just from sitting so long and the Battery is low ? If I use an OBD and reset it will this and a charge take care of the problem ??
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Today morning when I started the engine my tire low pressure warning lighted up, blinked for about 30 seconds and is now ON. It happens every time I start the car. My tires are at 38 PSI ( just re checked)
I can't find anything in the manual that shows how to reset the damn warning light.
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Today all of a sudden my yellow engine indicator lighted up. I tried turning off the vehicle and start it back to see whether it goes off. No luck in that effort.
I have Prius 2012. I serviced it last on 10/31/2014 and I have now run 8000 Kilo Meters after the last service. I am using 0W-20 as my engine oil.
I see the vehicle going to EV mode and Engine mode depending on the way I drive and I've even achieved 20Kmpl in the last run. Could this be a sensor or a serious issue.
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The area where you shift transmission gears isn't lighted. Find that strange even though you can see what gear you're in on the lighted panel. Gear not the right term, but think you know what I mean.
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My 2008 Rx 400h has nice blue"neon" lighted scuff plates. One of my rear plates is out . The dealer tells me that the whole scuff plate unit must be replaced and that it it simply not a matter of replacing a light. There is a lighted strip that apparently is the light source. Can replace the lights without replacing the whole sill of the door?
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My 2000 Explorer overdrive light will blink once in awhile no hard shifting, no slipping, i also pushed the overdrive button while it was doing this and it went out of overdrive , trans has been service, I know this is a common issue with explorers . I understand that it could be caused by a number of issues. I haven't had the codes pulled yet.
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