I've never used a rust converter, so I have no experience and wanted to hear from those who have. I've got some light rust on the frame rails and the hitch receiver. What product would you recommend, or do these products work well enough to consider? According to all of the websites, they all work miracles...
View 3 RepliesA buddy of mine ripped the hitch off his excursion due to rust. Anything can be fixed. I will try to get a picture of it.
View 10 RepliesFabricated own receiver hitch for the front? The ones available exit under the bumper and hang way to low, severely limiting approach angle.
I am planning on building one that exits through the large hole in the middle of the bumper, similar to the 99-07 style. I will use it for my custom generator mount and/or a small winch.
I have a 2004 Ford F 150 and I was wondering if a receiver hitch off of a totaled 2006 would fit on my truck?
View 4 RepliesMy 02 F-250 (week end truck) has begun to start showing a lot more surface rust on frame and axles. It's about half rust and half black frame. Are there any products that I can spray or brush on that will convert and stop this. ?
View 6 RepliesI took my 2003 4Runner to the dealer and they sent pictures to toyota. I asked that the customer service rep contact me next time he was in the area. Toyota replaced the frame with me paying a 2500.00 deductible. Now I still have the car and will wait for the recall/class action suit that someone will file to get reimbursed. I hear it was due to the frames being dipped in Alabama.
View 2 RepliesHave a 1998 Mitsubishi Montero.
Best car I've ever owned. 184K miles, never once failed to start.
I was crushed to discover this spot of frame cancer on the driverside rear portion of the frame behind the rear wheel (attached images) .
Is this terminal?
Is it safe to drive and therefore potentially crash this vehicle?
Before the ground froze I dug a 10x18x10 foot deep hole in the backyard....
Just got a mild lift done on my Ex and still wanting to park it in the garage.
If I remove the useless rails and cross bars that looks like it's still a possibility.
What to fill the holes with? Just torx screws? Anything else I need to do to prevent water leakage?
My hitch is rusting so bad that I can pull it off in pieces. Surprisingly it seems to be the only major rust on my EX. I crawled under it the other day to check out how it is removed and I only saw half of 4 bolts. Those bolts look like they are under the fuel tank and I can't get my socket onto them.
My question is, do I need to drop the fuel tank to remove the hitch, and also is there anything else I should do while the fuel tank is down.(Besides replacing the hitch with a new one.)
My hitch receiver is looking pretty strange lately and I want to take it down, grind it and repaint it. While crawling underneath the truck today, I noticed that it appears the bolts holding the hitch are kind of covered by the Tank Skid Plate.
I did some searching, and from what I've gathered, it appears that To drop the skid plate means to also drop the tank as they are one unit.
Is this true? Is there any way for me to get the hitch receiver out without messing around with the gas tank?
Bought a 2013 FX4 two weeks ago to replace my 94 F150 and got to enjoy it for a whole 10 days before I got rear ended at a stop light. The car hit me doing between 30-40, fast enough to make her airbags go off, and it was hard enought to force the bed to hit the cab. Unfortunately, the damage is more than cosmetic body work. The bottom of the bed is pushed up under the bedliner and the frame is bent in front of where the leaf spring connects. My concern is that the adjuster will want to "fix" the frame and I will be stuck with a lifetime of alignment issues, suspension issues, etc. I know the rear of the frame is not as much an issue as if the front was bent, but I don't know how they could fix it without cutting it and welding in a new piece, and how can I know that the frame is true?
View 14 RepliesThe radius arm bracket holes and the holes on the frame line up, but there is a gap between the bottom of the frame and the bracket. I am wondering what to do at this point.
View 1 RepliesHave a rust spot coming thru rear, that I am presuming is due to condensate from rear a/c.
If the rear inside panel where jack is located is removed, it is from the rear inside corner behind the jack.
I will be repairing the rust at the bottom edges of my doors. I work at a body shop and we've done 2 X's in the last 2 weeks! one was an 02 and was really bad. the owner wanted 4 new doors and rust repaired at the R/R lower C-pillar. the one today was an 04or 05? and just started to pop. After the first I looked at my doors and my L/R is the worst with just starting to flake paint. The others are just starting to pop.
I'll take some pics of what I'm doing which will be the same we did at the shop. In the years I've been on this site I've never seen mention of this! I know it`s more common in the midwest and east so I'm sure there are more than just a few! In as you don't know what I'm talking about.....look under the rubber weather strip (flap) on the lower part of the doors. the rust starts at the seem where the door frame and skin attach!
I have considerable rust on both sides at the rocker panels. Both running boards are precariously perched and won't last long (don't really care about that; I'll do without).
In my search for replacement panels, I'm only able to find ones for "crew cab super duty," not specifically the Excursion. Wouldn't they be identical? Identical enough?
My X spent 4 years up north and has a lot of rust underneath the chassis, can use blackstar rust remover polymer? I cannot stand looking at it and was wondering about having success using this product? It looks like it removes rust and seals it with a polymer.
[URL]....
My 2000 V10 Ex 4x4 (has 146,000 miles) with some rust on rockers and wheel wells runs pretty good. The exhaust needs some work. The transmission shifts pretty well I think, except sometimes from 1st to 2nd its a little jerky (like in a parking lot). I've put powerstop brakes on all four wheels, and have been maintaining it pretty well since I bought it almost two years ago.
Here's my issue. My 3rd son (out of 4) was diagnosed 2 years ago with ALL (Acute Lymphoblastic Leukemia). His End Of Treatment (EOT) date is July 8th 2018. This is relevant because to celebrate his EOT, we are planning on taking a 2 week road trip out west in our new to us hybrid travel trailer we just purchased this past February. We are taking the camper on a few weekend trips this summer and one week long trip to Michigan in July (we're from Ohio).
My concern is this: am I risking a ruined trip out west with such an old vehicle? I don't really trust it for such a long trip, I worry something would fail me and ruin a trip that's supposed to be celebrating my son conquering cancer. Am I being overly paranoid? I see V10 trucks and Excursions all the time with more miles than my own. I just worry that the rust will just be too much and the driveshaft will fall off, or the transmission will fail while we're towing up the Bighorns, or in Yellowstone. You get the picture.
I can't imagine i'm the only one. Driver and passenger doors are starting to drip rust onto my running boards.
what is the best route to take? I'd like to keep my ex for at least 10 more years.
Might be adding a '13 to the work fleet but it won't have a receiver, when my '09 was rear ended I noticed it looked like the bumper and receiver are more or less all in one. So can just the receiver hitch be added on these or is it a complete bumper replacement?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2" ball mount and a 2" ball from my previous vehicle. That vehicle was equipped with a 2" receiver as well.
Recently I had been pulling a few stumps in the front yard...nothing major, but this was the first time the ball mount has been used in my '06. So I noticed that there is some excessive (to me at least) space between the mount and the receiver on the truck. This causes some rattle between the two. I know there are collars out there that I can use to remove the rattle, but my question is...have others of you noticed the same? Do any of you have excessive play between the mount and receiver?
After returning home from our trip last week I was giving the truck a once-over and trying to figure out why I had less clearance with the cab lights and the camper. Well a quick look down under revealed the culprit, the cross rail closest to the front is gone where it comes in contact with the frame. The inside of the bed would flex when I walked on it , in turn most every time I would hit a bump or transition in the road the camper would hit the cab lights. The rest of the bed is in real good shape, those rails are almost shot. Dually beds aren't cheap and getting someone to weld in new rails probably won't be either. We have decided to keep it at least one more year, I may attempt it on my own, get my brother -in-law to weld in the rails..
View 5 Replies