Ford Excursion :: Leaking Coolant Whether Engine Is Running Or Not
Aug 19, 2017
This guy started as a slow leak. Now leaks down entire coolant res whether engine is running.or not. Appears the connection to the rest leg isn't sealed. Not sure if available from factory, or if I should cut it out and replace with barbed tee and hose clamps. That's my inclination. Not a ton of room to work with. I think it's an excursion specific thing, from pics I don't think super duty has a t there. Guessing it's where rear coolant line tees off?
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I have an 04 Excursion with a 6.0PSD. I am currently experiencing a coolant leak, not very bad at the moment but I would like to fix it. The coolant is running down the back right side of the engine and I can see coolant pooling on the pan on top of the motor, specifically the right side. I can see some moisture on the front of the engine but it is below the top of the engine and I do not think this would be the cause since coolant won't flow up hill. I can't see or smell any coolant flowing when the engine is running but see it at idle and when parked.
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I am to take a road trip within the next week, but recently my vehicle had been running hot and leaking coolant. I only discovered this problem when I turned on my A/C. I diagnosed the problem that the seal on my radiator was giving way when too much pressure built up and that's what caused the coolant leak. Do this trip would put too much pressure on my coolant system with the consistent driving. The trip is a 18-19 hrs drive, and I'll only be driving one-way. There won't be a return trip. Can I wait to get my radiator replaced when I get there or will I be risking it if I drove with the radiator in this condition?
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Alright, yesterday while I am at work, wife calls me up and tells me the Ex is leaking coolant. I got home a little before dark and looked at it. Right behind the front passenger fender well, it appears that either a bolt came out of a bracket, or someone took it off for something and was too lazy to put it on, allowing the metal elbows to swing over and rub on a bracket. So now I have a hole in that elbow, and I need to the excursion for our trip over Christmas leave. Where I might get an elbow to replace that one? Also, need to know the bolt size for that heater hose bracket to keep it from happening again? If I can't find one pretty soon, I will have to JBWeld or something it temporarily to hold us through until after Christmas.
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I'm 650 miles from home in WV and the truck overheated and I saw coolant leaking from the area above the passenger side rear tire.
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Today while I was working I walked back to my truck after finishing the job and saw a red fluid leaking from behind the front bumper, I crawled underneath and saw that it was leaking from somewhere between the plastic cover for the fan and the radiator but I couldn't find exactly where it was coming from, I drove 30 miles before I got to the job site with my ac on, and my ac was making a noise that seemed like a whirling noise but I kinda brushed it off as the condenser going bad or whatever. After I found my truck leaking I decided to drive 20 miles to the next job site but this time I left the ac off and nothing happened the temperature gauge didn't even go up, I checked underneath when I finished driving and there was no more coolant leaking from the radiator. I drove it an additional 50 miles before I got home and still no leaks. Could the bad ac system cause coolant to leak? I have a 2000 excursion 5.4L V8
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My truck has a 6 o powerstroke. I noticed some coolant loss, which I've been monitoring since I had the truck studded 2 years ago. Today I was looking around trying to find a cause of the coolant loss and I noticed some crusty orange residue on a hose that runs under the coolant reservoir. The hose seems to go behind the valve covers along the firewall to the passenger side through a steel line, and then go in a loop back to itself?
I'm guessing it's for the heater core, but I didn't see where it actually goes into the heater core, or anything else for that matter. It is a molded hose that has one of those crimped transitions into the steel line, so I'm not sure if patching it is an option or if I should look at replacing the whole piece. I'm guessing it's going to be expensive. From the fact that it never failed before, I'm thinking it wasn't originally routed with it touching the valve cover and was just something that happened after having the body off during the stud install.
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On my 2003 Excursion 7.3L, I notticed I'm leaking what I think is coolant from the passenger side rear hard line by the front spring hanger. I haven't pealed the plastic loom away yet, but I did see the loom is chaffed near the spring hanger. What lines are the ones that carry coolant, and can I just cut the hard lines and replace with a section of rubber hose?
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My grandfathers 99 F350, started suddenly, do not know if it was while sitting or while driving. Its more of a stream than anything else. Coming from the rear, cannot see where, appears to be toward the vee of the engine, not inside the bellhousing. The firewall insulation is damp from coolant. Doesnt start until engine starts warming up.
Is there something commonly replaced back there? Didnt want to yank the intake in 20* weather for exploratory surgery. Is not the heater hoses. Idk if the EGRs are cooled on these, thats about my only idea other than freeze plug, coolant tests good down to -20ish, hasnt been below zero in weeks (prior to leak). Not familiar with any of the modular engines.
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I spotted a leak last nite on my 6.0. It is coolant, running down the right rear on 2 metal lines that go to the trans I think. It was dark and 24 degrees so I did not spend too much time looking. Shut the mother down til I could research. 2004 250, 6.0 FX4x4, stock. Coolant was changed to green by previous owner. Bought it 4 months ago. 187,000 miles.....
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I have a 1999 Ford Expedition. A couple of days ago The engine started losing coolant as soon as the engine cooled. I replaced the coolant only to lose it again when the engine cooled. I was told that it is more likely the intake manifold gaskets leaking. It seems they are right. What is the cost to repair if I take it to a mechanic?
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I have a 1995 aero with 4 wheel drive and a 4 liter. Lent it out and the engine was run without coolant. Pretty sure the head gaskets are blown. I found a replacement 4 liter from a 92 explorer and wondered if it would swap in. Will the bolt pattern match, computer, mounts,etc?
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I have a coolant leak somewhere on the top of the engine running down to the oil pan and bell housing. I have done some research and discovered it could be the coolant inlet tube to the turbo.
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I seem to be leaking coolant, its not coming from the radiator, and all my hoses seem to be okay as well. I removed the airbox, the leak is on the drivers side by the engine. Where this leaking might be coming from?
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My sons 1998 nissan altima has engine coolant leaking from the air conditioning compressor my best guess is a leak in radiator has slugged the compressor and both are toast . I see there is separate cooler for ac is it possible to isolate that section while repairing so he can still drive to work (short distance less than mile) while I find replacement or is it not possible...
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I drive a 2001 Honda Civic EX and have over 248,000 miles. Almost at a quarter million! Recently, the engine has been overheating. The coolant has been leaking and the coolant reservoir would becomes full. I've checked out the fan and the fan relay and both seem to be fine. The temperature seems to increase (to redline) during traffic jams and any times of idling. When I blast on the air conditioning, the temperature seems to decrease, but would later increase when the car idles. The temperature also decreases to normal when I sustain my speeds over ~60mph. Also, the temperature will fluctuate from cold to hot to cold. What does this all mean?
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Bought a fixer upper 2001 v10 and it's definitely not running on all cylinders. Also the check engine light is not on and the PCM is not saying it's on (per my code reader) and it doesn't come on when I turn the key on.
Is it possible the previous owner had a programmer of some sort to disable the CEL? If the bulb were removed my scan tool would still show it on. Trying to get it to tell me which cylinders I am having trouble with.
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My 1994 chevy cavalier is overheating mainly on hot days and when I work the engine hard. My coolant level hasn't dropped in a long time and the coolant cap is usually dry. I replaced the thermostat and checked the radiator hoses. They seem to be fine. My engine is leaking coolant.
(See photo) : IMG_2308.JPG3024x4032 2.61 MB
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Basically it's a coolant leak problem for my 1996 Saturn SL1 Sedan. Here are the details of the problem....
About 6 months ago my Saturn started leaking coolant. It was very minor, I'd have to add a pint or so every 1 hour worth of driving or 40 miles (I experienced these early stages of a coolant leak before with a 1997 Buick Century). The problem very slowly increased 4 months ago and at about this time I noticed coolant residue on some of the engine parts. Using logic I determined the coolant must be leaking onto the belt which was spraying the fluid around, including the underside of the hood in a very fine line.
By 1 month ago I was adding about a quart of coolant every 15 miles. Still, very manageable with no other problems. Then 2 weeks ago it happened.... For the first time when I'd start my car it would issue that high-pitch squealing sound I'm sure we've all heard on older cars and thought, "man, that driver needs to get their car checked out." The noise would last for a few seconds, then stop. Rarely the sound would kick in also when coming out of a full stop.
Then 1 week ago, it all got worse. Now the car squeaks for around 2-5 seconds 50% of the time after a cold start. 80% of the time from a full or partial stop. About 90% of the time if my speed drops around 15mph. And now it even makes the noise for a few seconds (10% of the time) while driving +30mph. And the coolant leak is really bad. I have to fill the reservoir (add about 90%) anytime I drive more than a few blocks or +5 minutes. Also, for the first time, anytime I stop the car the coolant just drips onto the ground at a significant rate.
What sort of a problem I might be looking at based on my description?
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The X has been running great, well good enough, lately with no issues. I left work the other morning, and apparently the X didn't want to wake up that early. As soon as I started it up, the check engine light came on and it was running like crap. Had a bad hesitation all the way home. It feels like it is misfiring, but only under load. It doesn't do it if I brake torque it or Rev it up. Only while driving.
The codes I am getting are in the P035x family (typed that way for future searches). P0353 and P0358 are the codes I am getting (along with 4x4 codes for the vacuum solenoid...but that's the solution to other problems not relevant to this!). Being codes for the primary circuit, I popped the hood and checked out the connectors. Both connectors are fine, and tightly connected. I did notice however that cylinders 3 and 8 have other than OEM coil packs on them. These are the only 2 cylinders with those coil packs (they are white and the other 8 cylinders have black coils).
I don't want to just throw parts at it, and I'm not getting a hard miss fire code, just the 2 above. I might try to swap the coils with other cylinders tonight and see if the codes move to those cylinders. It has run like this a few times, but never set a code, and turning it off and back on has "fixed"this in the past.
And just for complete disclosure, while looking for where I saved a password, I found notes from August last year where I pulled codes, and these two codes were present then, with a cylinder 7 hard miss fire code. I replaced the c7 coil with motorcraft cleared the codes, and P0353 and P0358 went away and I haven't seen them since. The plugs are brand new and only have about 1000 miles on them (changed them in September when repairing the misfire and I don't drive it much).
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I am talking about those two hoses going into the firewall by my Blower Motor assembly that may be leaking and wanted to know if i can bypass or plug up these two hoses, since i no longer have ARA A/C and heater.
1986 140 CID GAS Ford Ranger 2.3, 5-speed manual
After market ARA A/C - No longer working
Blower motor heating coil element caught on fire - heater no longer working either.
Most days, before I drive somewhere, even just a few miles or less, I have to put in a little coolant, about one or two cups, So I know there is a leak coming from somewhere, it's just not visible, but strangely dripping from my right side front fender wall, just below the air filter, seems strange. Did not see any tiny leaks from my radiator.
What I have done was to check hoses from the radiator to the engine and noticed no leaks. Is there anything else I could do without a major repair? I even used that stop leak a while ago, but that didn't work.
A few days later.. Ok, when I got home today, I noticed antifreeze dripping from that shield over the right side passengers wheel well. I crawled underneath and on the other side of the tire, and did not see anything as the source. I would think that it would be in the area of the radiator, either upper or lower hoses, or that short hose to the block near the water pump. I will check the heater core hoses going from engine area into Firewall again. But I did not see anything leaking from that right side firewall. I have an aftermarket ARA AC, bit that hasn't worked for years.
If the leak is not coming from the head gasket, upper or lower radiator hoses, or those two hoses going into the firewall, where else could it be coning from? Very strange it's not anywhere near the radiator or engine, but on the right side passenger's side, above the tires wheel well. Some have said it has to be from either those two heater core water hoses going into the firewall.
I have neither a working air conditioner (after marker ARA) or a working heater (leaves found their way from the outside hood vents into the Blower motor and EVAP core and the heating element caught some leaves on fire and burned mostly everything inside this box. I have not replaced that, nor would I at this point,but just want to fix the leak)
A friend suggested that I could just BYPASS the water hoses going into the firewall....is this plausible? Do I do next to the inlet/outlet hoses bt the water pump. or somewhere else?
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