Ford Excursion :: Intermittent No Heat In Front Or Rear
Dec 4, 2015
I was driving yesterday and had no heat, tried rotating the dial several times, changed the vent setting and such and no heat front or rear. Then all of a sudden while waiting for a train to pass, the heat started working in the front and rear.
This morning I stated her up and had heat, but by the time I got to work (30 minutes) it was barely warm. Due to heated seats! It's 26 degrees out and I'm at work, so it'll be this evening before I get a chance to look at it.
2000 limited v10 4x4 in case it didn't show up.
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the rear heat doesnt work, the front heat works and the rear AC works fine.
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I picked up an 02 ex value xlt with out the rear heat i was wondering if any of you have installed it in a truck that never had it. i work at a scrap yard as a mechanic and will hopefully have a truck come in with the parts i need, what it all entails. Any headliner out for some odd reason maybe you could snap a photo of the piping.
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My front heat controls work at start up occasionally. The heat will eventually come on in front after 15-30 minutes of the truck running. Needless to say this sucks for defrosting the front window during warm up. The rear controls work fine. I do have a couple that need replacing but the fan control isn't one. Temp & selectors. I've searched but haven't been able to find anything about same issue. Where to start?
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2000 Expedition. Had ford mechanic replace front heater core due to not having heat in the front and back. wife brings it home I check all vents and notice there's good heat up front but not the back, then I switch the rear from panel to floor heat and hear a thumping sound (figure the blend door is doing it) still no heat in rear. returned to ford mechanic and they stated my blender door switch is not working properly, so they flushed out rear core and instead of fixing the blender door switch they kept it on floor position and charged me another bill. could it be possible that while replacing front core the gunk made it to the rear hoses and core, and clogged it up, and damaged the blender door switch somehow. prior to my heat issues I never had any problems with the rear blender door, just no heat due to front core needing replaced according to them "FORD".
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" Michelin LTX A/T 2 Load range E tires that are size 265/75/16"
I don't haul much and I don't tow.
How much in the front tires and how much in the rear?
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I know 4" is still good, as that is what my 05 had. Just curious about my 00. Locally a guy is selling a pair of fab tech 5.5" front leaf springs. Just curious if I went that high if the stock drivelines would survive? We do not have a driveline shop on the island, so I would like to go as high as I can, without modding the drivelines. If 4" is all, that's fine. Just curious!
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The front a/c blows cold air but the 2nd row and back blows warm. Yes the temp dial is on cold on both dials. Is there a separate a/c clutch that I dont know about to ck the air gap? Is there a separate port to put freon in besides the front. I need to get this fixed because with my bulldogs in the back the heat will kill them.
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So my overhead ac/heater control lights front and rear went out, where the lights are to replace them.
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Looking to install rear sway bar on 2001 Ex. and noticed a skid plate looking thing in front of passenger side rear shock. Two questions:
1. What is that, and
2. Do I need to remove it to put on sway Bar?
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I've only had the Ex for a few months so I'm still learning... After a trip to Orlando this weekend, I noticed a very faint odor of differential fluid from the driver's side front and rear wheels.
Nothing on the passenger's side. I've inspected the pinions and axles and found no wet areas at all, so I'm a little perplexed. The wheels and axle housings were pretty cool considering a 5 hour round trip.
I was also wondering if what I am smelling is due to the axle vent hoses?
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There used to be a audible pop in my stereo speaker when my heat would kick on. Now there is not. My heat did this last winter around the same time. I checked Fuses. The blower blows, but it just blows cold air. It could be a thermostat, or a clogged heater core. 1997 Ford Ranger 2.3L ...
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I found no heat last week in my 01 F150. The AC was cold but no blower. The heat was there but no blower. I replaced the blower motor resistor. Result: i believe a FEW of the speeds worked when turning the fan speed switch...but was intermittent. It would blow L, M, H, then nothing. I jiggled the know on the dash mounted switch and heard it on/off, on/off the motor as I jiggled. I DID notice that when I disco'd the connector off the resistor the HIGH speed worked. Is the switch on the dash perhaps crusty ? Or should I be looknig at the motor itself.
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On my 2003 Excursion 7.3L, I notticed I'm leaking what I think is coolant from the passenger side rear hard line by the front spring hanger. I haven't pealed the plastic loom away yet, but I did see the loom is chaffed near the spring hanger. What lines are the ones that carry coolant, and can I just cut the hard lines and replace with a section of rubber hose?
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I currently have an 05 Limited X and I've also noticed this on other 05 X's as well. The front driver and passenger side doors near the lower end with the cladding doesn't seem to match up with the rear doors. This goes for both driver and passenger front doors. I at first thought maybe it was just on the X I have but this is something I've taken notice of on just about all of the 05 Limited's I've looked at. What I'm referring to with the front doors being popped out a small bit and not matching up or being perfectly aligned with the rear doors?
I've had an 01 Limited and the doors wasn't anywhere near how mis-aligned they seem to be on the 05 Limited's. I haven't checked years between or XLT's. But on almost or pretty much all 05 Limited's I'm noticing this. Some are not as bad as others or as noticeable as others. But for some reason they all seem to pop out a little towards the bottom. When I speak of doors I'm referring to the doors itself, not the cladding/molding sticking out.
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My 8-year-old (2003), 134k mile Nissan Maxima has a new quirk. When the car is started from completely cold (as in over night), there is a distinctive intermittent squeaking noise (think water being rubbed against glass) coming from the left front somewhere near the tire. The car only does this for about 5 minutes or so until it's warmed up and it has to be going 20 miles an hour before it starts. Once the car is up and running you can turn it on and off all day, let it sit for a few hours even, and it's fine. What's going on?
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2002 with 7.3 and Auto Climate Control...When the engine temp is at normal operating temperature, there is minimal heat coming out of the floor (on floor setting) and then when I turn on the rear heat there is almost no heat at all. Both fans work properly. I noticed when I turn the temp setting all the way down and then back up to 90* I can get what feels like 65-70* out of the front. Again, almost no heat on the rear. I still need to check the hoses to see what's happening at the heater core. I'm thinking it might be the controller, but not sure how the ACC plays with the rear controls.
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I have a 00 Ford Excursion and only heat blows out of the front vents, the temp control doesn't work at all! The back has it's own controls and will come out cold (not a/c just the outside air) when the front is on (blasting heat). What this could be?
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I just bought an 03 Ex that hadn't been driven but 600 miles the past three years. Needless to say, there's probably some sludge causing issues somewhere. I have a Scangauge installed, which has been very useful thus far.
I've flushed the coolant, currently with distilled water, changed the oil and filter, atf and filter, and installed my 2nd set of fuel filters after getting stranded after I ran my first tank of fuel through it. After changing the fuel filters the second time, I was still having cold starting problems, requiring 3-4 long cranks before firing. Once warm, runs fine. I just installed a FICM from Diesel Tech Ron, but I still have to try 3-4 times to get it to cold start, then it runs and starts ok. Not sure why the hard cold starts...
Also, the heat doesn't work. A/C is fine, blower is working. I installed a new thermostat, and like I said, I have flushed the coolant with tap water and now distilled water, but didn't want to pour in fresh coolant just yet, in case I have to drain it again with this heat issue. That vc7b is not cheap. Tonight I drove the truck about 20 miles and my highest temps for EOT was around 215 and ECT was 205. Fluctuated between the the mid 190s to low 200s most of the time, this was over some hilly roads with no load or anything. Anything else I can monitor or check on in the mean time?
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So I was doing my coolant flush yesterday and turned on the heat, both front and rear, to move any old coolant out of piping and cores. I notice that the rear was not blowing as "warm" as the front.
I did notice that the compressor was clicking on and off the whole time. A/c pipes coming off of accumulator were freezing up/getting cold/frosty.
Is it normal for the compressor to do this when the heat is on?
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Yesterday driving home the heat/AC turned on full bore by itself and would only blow warm air. It will turn off. The rear control works correctly but the front will not blow cool air.
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