Ford Excursion :: Intermittent Battery Draw
May 24, 2015
I bought my X 2 weeks ago on a Saturday. It was dead when I picked it up, due to sitting. No big deal. I live an hour from where I bought it. Drove it sunday and monday no problem. Tuesday, I fired it up, drove to work. It sat about 11 hours, I came out and it was dead. I jumped it. Drove home and put it on a charger overnight. Fired it up wednesday morning and drove to work. Just for good measure I did a charging system check. It passes with flying colors. Park it and come out 11 hours later. Dead. I jumped it and pulled it inside and threw a new battery in it. Should be good to go...
I drove it, and had no problems till sunday night. It sat about 16 hours and was again dead. I put my charger on it overnight again. Drove to work monday morning and grabbed my inductive amp clamp. I use that for larger draws so I know I won't pop the fuse in my meter.
I pop the hood, and lock the doors. Put the meter on it and its showing 9amp draw. Normal till the computers fall asleep and such. It dropped down to 4.8 amps and didnt' drop. I checked it an hour later and it was still at 4.8. So I left it sit and when I'd walk by I'd check it. Once in a while it was reading 0.0. The others 4.8. When I went out to leave for the day it was at 0.0, and the truck started just fine.
It's been a week now with no problems, and the only thing I have done is lube all the latches and hinges. BUT... last night I was working in the garage and once in a while I could hear what sounded like a motor running for a second or 2 in the clamshell trunk lid. I know it doesn't currently lock, but I didn't think it could or would continue to attempt it.
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With the hood open and the hood light bulb pulled out, measured the parasitic draw on their truck? I checked mine because it appears my battery is slowly discharging if the truck sits 3 or 4 days. I got 0.24 amps which seems in line with running the clock memory and the computer. I have a feeling the battery is shot even though it is only 3 years old. When I bought the truck it had a ton of yellow fuzz on the terminals. That is cleaned up and with it running I get about 14.35 volts at idle so it is charging. 0.24 draw??
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As I'm driving along, I get the battery light coming for a few minutes then going out. Is this a sign my alternator is on the fritz?
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So I think I have a slow battery draw. Did a test and the first result showed a 1.4/1.6 amp draw. So I started pulling fuses, and the F8 fuse (in the engine bay) dropped it to 0.4/0.5. F8 fuse is what I believe is labeled as the Radio. I have no audio upgrades. Just the stock RCD-510.
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I narrowed my battery drain to the box on top of the battery. When I disconnect all three fuses and the 4th wire from inside the box my draw goes to 0 but when I connect any of those 4 it will go back up. Connecting all of them will not increase the draw any more but it seems all of them are connected in some way?
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Just wondering if leaving the key in the ignition in the lock position causes the car to draw power from the battery.
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I have a 2006 F250. Past two winters my batteries have died. Last yr., bought 2 new batteries and a new alternator. This winter, battries have been replaced twice. I only drive the truck maybe once a week, about 5 miles total. I live in Indiana and we have had many sub zero temps this yr. Its been in the shop all week, the mechanic states that they are finding an extremely small draw but cannot find where it is coming from. The mechanic is wondering if I am driving it enough. Any thoughts on this? Also my batteries came from auto zone, the mechanics thought it was bad that I had bought them from auto zone.....not sure if that should even be a factor....
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I'm experiencing intermittent steering loss only when I'm turning, left or right, on my 2004 Excursion. I was told it could be the outboard u-joints, so I've replaced them along with the ball joints. Still have the problem. For grins, in park I tried turning the steering wheel left and right, no issues. But when I applied the brake and tried turning the steering wheel, it felt like I had no power steering. Not every time.
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My 2000 v10 w/194K has developed an intermittent shake when braking. Severity from mild to severe. Had the problem earlier, suspected the rotors - replaced front rotors and pads with EB slotted rotors and Yellow Stuff pads. It was fine for a couple of months, now its back. Replaced the slide pins last night (they were in good shape, replaced anyway). Where to look next?
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Original owner of a 2005 Excursion 6.8l v10, 155k miles. About a month ago 10-15 minutes or so into my ride to work on a 50-60 degree morning the check gauges light comes on, noticed the temp gauge pegged to H followed by the check engine light, then limp mode. Turned on front & rear heaters and cold air was blowing. Pulled over, checked under the hood, coolant wasn't boiling, tank was 1/2 full and cold air was blowing thru radiator. 1st thought was T'Stat. So I removed T'Stat added some antifreeze & continued to work w/o a t'stat. Then had heat thru radiator & heat in front & rear heaters. Engine ran cool with no overheat issue.
Bought aftermarker T'Stat (slant) put that in and everything back to normal. About a month later same problem happens at about the same point in my trip to work, temp pegs, no heat from heater and goes into limp mode. Shut the truck off release pressure from radiator and coolant level goes down, seems to feed back into engine. Start the truck up temp goes back to normal and everything is fine for the rest of the day with several starts/stops. Bought FORD OEM T'Stat & replaced. Next morning same problem. So i think maybe there's an air pocket somewhere, add more coolant & fill to proper level when cold. next morning from cold start same problem. Coolant is clean, just changed oil and no coolant in oil. Problem only happens from a cold startup in the morning.
I'm at a loss. I'm thinking of drilling a small bypass hole in the T'Stat.
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I was driving yesterday and had no heat, tried rotating the dial several times, changed the vent setting and such and no heat front or rear. Then all of a sudden while waiting for a train to pass, the heat started working in the front and rear.
This morning I stated her up and had heat, but by the time I got to work (30 minutes) it was barely warm. Due to heated seats! It's 26 degrees out and I'm at work, so it'll be this evening before I get a chance to look at it.
2000 limited v10 4x4 in case it didn't show up.
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The Ex has started intermittent (less intermittent now) shaking while driving down the road. Not very noticeable at low speeds 20 or less. Idles smooth. Took it in and had tires checked, balanced, rotated, and aligned.
No difference. It was so bad my wife got pulled over by a police officer on the freeway here. He was extremely nice, looked under the car and suggested as possibilities. The locking Hubs on the front (4x4), U-Joints, Axle issue, Stuck in 4 wheel drive, or bad power steering pump.
Once she picked me up and we drove home from our dinner, I got pulled over. When it is in its violent shaking mode, it pulls to the right. when the shaking subsides (for an unknown reason) the pull to the right is gone. I do not notice anything that causes it to start or stop the shaking.
2001 Diesel 4x4, 4" Exhaust, Injen Cold Air Intake
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Well today I got an intermittent battery light so I got the batteries tested and they were both good and then the alternator is only pushing 12 volts so I guess I need a new one right? Which know should I get? And how hard is it to get the belt to relieve tension...
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Just bought an '03 Excursion v10 with ~150,000 miles on it (Saturday morning). About 3/4 of my 1.5 hr drive home, when I hit my first small mountain, and I put my foot into it, the ABS light came on, and the speedo started bouncing around. Same thing on the second hill/mountain.
Then, after driving it on a couple small trips this weekend, and towing my 2500 lb boat home (20 min drive), it behaved fine (no big hills, etc). However, I decided to hookup my backup camera. During the 60 or so minutes that I had it sitting with dome lights on, etc measuring everything up (also trying to figure out how to fit my tool box in the back).
When I tried to start it when I was finished, it would just crank and crank and crank. Every now and then, it would try to catch, but never would. Left it sit for another 10 minutes and it started just fine. However, once it started, the ABS light came on for a little while, then went out.
At first, I thought "oh no... fuel pump". But then I started thinking about the speedo and the ABS light going whacko on the hills. I'm wondering if it's a low voltage issue? I had the alternator checked out today, and it tested fine at 13.9v. However, I've heard that those tests aren't always accurate.
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MY 04 Excursion limited has 154k miles on it. Up until about 2 weeks ago the RSS worked great. Then the light on the dash that turns the RSS off when you are backing up a trailer was intermittently on/off then it stayed on the whole time. The switch doesn't lock in one position. Like the clicker is bad. I got a new switch hoping this would fix the problem and Momma could back her school bus up with no problems. Not so. I checked out all the sensors and when you get in front of them individually you can hear them clicking. but the switch is still stuck in off. I disconnected the battery and reset the system and it still doesn't work. I cant find any schematics in my Haynes/Chilton manual for this system. there is no fuse for it in the owners manual.
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1998 F150 4.6 automatic.
Had problems with battery light. Was intermittent. Battery cables wouldn't stay tight, replaced them, light stayed off. Light back on now, constant. Battery reads 12.5ish off, 14.3ish running under load (lights, AC, etc.).
When truck is started, even cold, it doesn't rev up the RPM's and then die down to idle speed. It just goes straight to around 550rpm and surges slightly up and down between there and 650ish. Can these be related?
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So I use my car as a "work truck" and part of my duties involves stopping at a number of houses(8-12) for 5-15 min at a time and then driving 2-6 miles to the next house.
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I have a 2005 Camry XLE v6 that has been draining down the battery lately. I checked the idle current draw and found its about 320mA. What the general range should be? I took the reading with all doors closed (no lights), engine off and nothing switched on except the systems that require constant power.
The car has an aftermarket radio (Pioneer AVIC D1) installed (which has a line tied to the constant power source). At this setting, I suppose only the clock and the security system should be ON, but shouldn't those systems draw very little power? ... I looked through the Hayne's manual but couldn't find anything about idle current draw.
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I have a 2003 F 350 Crewcab 6.0 liter SD. I was preparing my truck for the first haul of the Summer. I noticed that my batteries were on their way out after 2 years old. I replaced them and noticed I had an intermittent battery light coming on/off on/off. It seemed like only at lower RPMs. So the day of my trip, I ended up changing out the alternator.
The trip went fine, however, I noticed that pesky battery light came on and then off a few times. I also got a hot plastic type smell from the front of my truck.....you know that hot plastic smell Anyway, I got home just fine. Via Torque Pro, my battery volts were reading 12.2ish when my battery light came on, but then would quickly return to 13.9.
Since I"ve been home, I have read about fixing the grounding points for our trucks and also adding a second ground wire and a second hot wire from battery to battery. I can not find exactly where the ground's lead to. I still have that fricking battery light coming on .....more often that not. How to chase this problem.
First I need to find out where the ground wires go to. My volts of recent have been reading 11.5-12ish when the truck is running and the friggin battery light is on. I did search and found a few links to this problem, but where to find the grounding points.
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Having this issue for a while. Finally have time off work to dig into it some more. 00 ex, v10. Intermittently flashes o/D light and shifts hard. I replaced 2 out of the three speed sensors. One at the output and the other on the axle. Only active code is the p0720 output shaft speed sensor circuit. Last weekend removed and inspected harness, did not electrically measure it tho. My question is: intermittent problem? I drove it today to see if it was still doing it and it drove like a dream! Haven't had the battery disconnected or anything, just sometimes it does it and other times it a smooth ride.
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I'm having an issue with my brakes. It was very intermittent, but seems to be happening a little more often lately. 99% of the time they work fine.
I'll try to describe. (vaguely) It will sometimes feel like the ABS is engaging, get a very hard pedal and some pulsing feeling. Sometimes just the pulsing without the hard pedal. It will happen at random times. Today it did it in the driveway going 5 MPH. No reason the ABS should think of kicking in.
I feel confident to rule out anything downstream at the wheels. I am leaning towards the master cylinder, but maybe that's wishful thinking. Afraid it also could be something sticking in the ABS which I assume is $$$.
Brake fluid is 18 months old with maybe 20k on it.
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