Ford Excursion :: IAC Valve Froze Stuck?
Feb 8, 2014
I tried starting up the Ex last night and it would not stay running unless I pressed on the gas and once I let go of the gas it would die. It had been pretty cold in Austin the last few days and I hadn't driven the Ex since Sunday.
So today I went to start it just now after it warmed up pretty good and the sun has been out. It would not start on key crank alone, I had to hit the gas but once I hit the gas it would stay running so I left it running for a few minutes then turned it off then waited a few minutes and turned it back on with the key alone and now it starts without needing to press the gas!
Is this just a product of the cold weather, was the IAC Valve froze stuck? Is that something I'd never have to worry about in the summer?
Should I clean the IAC? If so what cleaner recommended? Should I replace it? Will happen again after a cleaning?
I was super bummed when it would not start last night but I'm glad it's running again! I'm sure towing this beast would be expensive if I got stranded somewhere else but home.
In my searching for this problem I found a guy with a different car who said he had to keep both feet on the gas and brake (which was dangerous he said) but was the only way to get it home without paying for a tow truck.
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I'm guessing that the washer nozzles on the rear wiper arm froze solid. When the washer was turned on the pressure build up made a hose fitting pop off. What I heard, then saw, was blue washer fluid pouring onto the cargo area rug.
I removed the ~3' plastic trim under the lift gate and the rearmost dome light. You can see the cutout over my pinky & ring fingers. I also removed the r/s trim panel, but think I could have left it in place.
Plugged it back together with some zip ties to strengthen all of the connections. So far, all good
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Having some trouble with my 1987 2.3L ranger - 2wd - Non AC - 107k miles.
The truck feels like its running on 3 cylinders and occasionally stalls. Motor has a pretty good shake to it while idling as well.
Recently replaced injectors, rotor, cap, wire, spark plugs. Timing belt was done approx 30k miles ago.
Put seafoam into it. Problem persists - where to go from here ?
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My son is joining the site as we try to diagnose his first diesel. We checked fuel flow, and the bubble test. We held the valve down in the oil filter and watched it fill up in about 10 seconds and see it register on the dash gauge.
My Scan Gauge say it pushes 180 RPM while cranking, but it only gets about 225 on the ICP sensor and the IPR instantly maxes out at 84. It has thrown a code P2623 for a stuck IPR valve.
I hear a hiccup in the crank, but I'll let y'all listen and tell me. Will post YouTube link of it.
What are the chances of it being just a hole in the IPR screen or bad valve? I'm afraid we have a HP leak and need to do the air test to find it. I've never done that test and barely hear (rock concerts), my son hears but doesn't know what to listen for.
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The bolt that holds the dipstick on the valve cover. i have tried for ever to get this thing off. soaked it , got a skinny wrench on the nut underneath but think it might be stripped (1/2 inch grinded out a little). going to try and get a set of skinny wrenches tomorrow , mine bent. tried vise grips on top of the bolt and put a box wrench on the nut , and gave it my all. The damn thing won't budge.
Also, any tips on the rest of the valve cover bolts. I had to remove some from inside the fender well but barely got to them. My question is not getting these out but getting them back in. And how the heck to you torque these things??? The bolt i mentioned above is creating problem, and I only have so much time
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I have late 2004 with 130k with a bpd egr cooler and new oil cooler and new ficm from Ed. Cat delete with no muffler. Everything else is stock I have a dash boss and was noticing some weird numbers. My check engine light came on but I couldn't get any codes with the dashboss. I started monitoring the egr error and saw some erratic readings really high negative numbers after I let the throttle off. The truck runs okay but was kinda starting slow. Could my egr valve be stuck? Could my short modified exhaust be messing things up?
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Quite a few posts on this on the V10 forum. Mine Ex has been hesitating after starting (bad after a few days of no use) so I took off the old one and put on a new one. I'll clean up the old one and use it as a backup. Best to lay your body on old carpet on top of the engine, cause this value is right under the windshield, behind the air intake. Took about an hour with some swearing involved. DO NOT DROP tools, screws, gaskets, etc!
First few pics of where it's at .....
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If the fuel relief valve is stuck open would it possibly throw a P1316 code?
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I have a 1992 F-150 straight 6. Several days ago it started running rough and losing power and the trans shifted hard.
I put my code reader on it this morning and it read codes 332 and 334 - Insufficient EGR flow detected and EGR closed valve voltage high...
I have looked for vacuum leaks and found nothing. Is it possible the EGR valve is stuck?
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I am getting an error code of 1201. Is this the ERG valve? How do I change out? Looking for Pictures or diagram?
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While diagnosing a problem with my rear AC not working, I pulled the rear plenum apart. I noticed the rear heater coil was really hot even though I did not turn the heat on at all that day.
I suspect a bad heater control valve. The one that stops hot coolant from going to the core when the AC is on. I have manual temp controls so I assumen it is vacuum controlled. All data does not give me a location or vacuum routing specs for the valve so I am asking here.
1) Where do I find the heater control valve?
2) Does it shut off the coolant to both the front and rear heater cores or just the front?
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My air conditioner had a problem a few years ago. While idling in the driveway on a really hot day the clutch on the compressor froze and nearly burned the belt off of the pulleys before I killed the AC. I continued to drive the vehicle for several months but without using the AC.
Fast forward 5 years (almost) and I just finished installing a new engine and putting a shift kit in the transmission.
Remembering the original AC problem I know that I need to get this fixed. I noticed while checking all the engine functions that the compressor clutch is not stuck any more (maybe all the oil leaking onto it worked with this).
As it stands now, the AC seems to cycle normally but it doesn't get cold and probably needs a charge at a minimum. Is it possible that the compressor clutch will work fine or is it a disaster waiting to happen? What else should I check in the AC system?
I'm not against replacing the whole system or any single part of it. I am also not sure whether the AC uses R12 or R134. How can I tell?
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Own a 2011 6.7 diesel, 59K mileage, short bed 4 WD. Was driving at 70 mph and noticed my instant mileage display read 0. Usually I see a instant mileage reading of at least 16. No regen was in progress. Steady gas throttle. Display could be changed to other screens. After a few minutes it came back. But it jumped to 16 and did not ramp up.
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Have had my Excursion for a few weeks now. Took it to the dealer for some maintenance on the brakes. Had them do oil and fuel filters while it was there. Dealer calls to tell me that the water drain valve had broken off when they tried to drain water and the needed to replace the housing. Picked it up today and this is what they found when they pulled off that assembly...
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My Ex is throwing a P1451 Canister Vent Purge valve issue. Is the canister for the Ex hidden on the frame above the gas tank? I looked around the frame in the back of the truck but am having no luck finding it so I'm guessing ill have to drop the tank to get to it. I've read that wire chafing for this valve could be the problem.
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These are my gauge readings at 70 degrees Fahrenheit. According to an AC conversion for gauges calibrated in Pascals, 35-40F converts to 241-276 KPa, 140-160F converts to 1000-1103Kpa. The gauges are in Mpa which by conversion is 3 decimal points to the left so .241-.276 and 1-1.103 Mpa. Here are my gauge readings at 68 degrees ambient temp. Rear air is same as an ambient temp on max ac and the front is pictured. There seem to be virtually no pressure differences which I would interpret as a novice that there is ) freon flow.
There is freon in the system with the high pressure being approx correct but the low side is too high if I understand correctly. Basically when at highway speeds at 75 degrees yesterday the front AC was cold and the rear was outside vent temp only. There are slight leaks in the low and high-pressure valves. I have a Mastercool replacement tool but they did not send a fitting for the high-pressure valve. What these readings mean as far as what may be wrong?
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I was asked these questions tonight, and realized I didn't know the answers. I have "E" load range tyres.
1. Does the Excursion use the metal valve stems like the other super duty's? Are these the press on type? or screw on?
2. What is the Valve Stem size?
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About, one month ago my car shut off while driving(pretty scary at the time). I pulled of the road and attempted to start it again. Everything looked good there, but as I was making my way home from work it started to act funny. It would not acknowledge me depressing the accelerator. When I got home, I ate supper, then went to have a look.
The car would turn on, but not acknowledge me pressing the accelerator at all, It did however go up to 30 mph at a snails pace as if it was coasting down a hill. I plugged in my code reader, and it read that the Throttle Body Valve was stuck open. I took it off and tore into to it a bit. I noticed the gears inside the TB itself were corroded and the butterfly valve was locked up.
I replaced the part, and tried to turn my car on with the new TB. All the dash lights are in working order, however upon turning the ignition to crank the engine, the whole car system shuts down. No lights no nothing, besides the car door open sound. The car will remain like this regardless of the key position until I have reset the batter(take off the terminals and put them back on) to which the process repeats itself.
The code reader says no codes are stored because I obviously reset the battery. So now am at a standstill.I believe the old TB froze up, because I had to run in through 3 ft standing water during a storm, and then deployed shortly after(I'm in the service) for a few months while letting the car sit.
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2007 2.4L Camry LE.
Took the plastic engine cover off and found that there are two rubber gasket/washers that stayed stuck to the valve cover (around the threaded rods that stick out of the cover). When I tried to remove them, they disintegrated. Now, my plastic engine cover is having problems tightening on properly, if that makes sense.
So, if you look at the engine cover, you take the two nuts off and remove the cover. There are rubber isolators/gasket that is there. Mine have disintegrated. Call to the Dealership says I have to replace the entire cover as you cannot get those separately.
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I have another CEL : P1404... I know what this is, EGR Valve Stuck Closed. I just have one question about this. Is the valve the pintle? If not, what is the valve?
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My truck has a 6 o powerstroke. I noticed some coolant loss, which I've been monitoring since I had the truck studded 2 years ago. Today I was looking around trying to find a cause of the coolant loss and I noticed some crusty orange residue on a hose that runs under the coolant reservoir. The hose seems to go behind the valve covers along the firewall to the passenger side through a steel line, and then go in a loop back to itself?
I'm guessing it's for the heater core, but I didn't see where it actually goes into the heater core, or anything else for that matter. It is a molded hose that has one of those crimped transitions into the steel line, so I'm not sure if patching it is an option or if I should look at replacing the whole piece. I'm guessing it's going to be expensive. From the fact that it never failed before, I'm thinking it wasn't originally routed with it touching the valve cover and was just something that happened after having the body off during the stud install.
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