Ford Excursion :: How To Replace Driver Door Actuator
Nov 20, 2013
Beside the normal tools you will need a mirror, flashlight, very long needlenose pliers, and tin snips. There are 2 screws holding the driver door panel on, one is in the courtesy light at the bottom and the other is inside the switch compartment. You must also twist the light socket out, pop the cover off above the switches, pry the switch pod up at the FRONT and slide forward, and unplug the switches.
Now pull straight up on the panel and remove it after taking the light out at the bottom;
Tape the membrane up out of your way
You will need mirrors like these and very long needlenose.
Remove all the yellow plastic screws holding this aqua connector and it's wires and tuck it into the corner of the door.
Now you have a clear view of the actuator;
Try to pop this yellow plastic clip loose with your fingers and if not drill a hole above the oval hole and use a screwdriver;
Take the 3 screws out at the latch;
Push the plastic screws in holding the black cable and look through the oval hole to locate the green clip holding the rod to the door latch handle.
Cut the oval hole bigger so you can access the next steps;
Rotate the whole unit around until you can pop the green clip loose with a screwdriver by prying or pulling on the small side of the green clip and then locate the rod next to it (not mentioned in other posts), and disconnect it by using your very long needle nose to squeeze one side and a long screwdriver to pry the rod out;
Rotate the entire unit out around the window track, remove the wire harness, unplug the two other harnesses, and insert screwdriver under actuator before sliding it off.
Now you are ready to do the tin foil fix or just replace the actuator.
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I searched but can't find anything I know how to fix it once it's out, but until I get it out I got nothing.
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Whenever my A/C is turned on, it blows nice cold air. As long as the blower is on "1", "2", and sometimes ", it blows cold air. If I turn it to "4" I can hear a small "thud" behind the dash. It sounds like the blend door is shutting. All my functions work like they should. I think the actuator is goin out and isn't pushing the door all the way closed, and when I turn it to "4" it pushes it te other way.
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I purchased a 6.7 Diesel 2014 F250 Super Duty Crew Cab about 3 months ago. Yesterday I started my truck using the remote starter from inside my house. Seconds after I heard a loud noise. Looked outside, saw nothing and thought nothing of it till I went to open my door and realized that the driver door window shattered! I live in a quiet area, it wasn't a rock thrown at my truck or anything like that, it just Blew!!!!
I'm wondering if the truck might have some sort of pressure or torque if you wish on that window to make it just pop! My mirrors were folded in however I can't see that playing a role......
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The driver side door of my 2009 f150 won't lock, not with the remote nor with the button inside the truck,also not when the truck goes over 20 km/h, however the driver side door works perfectly fine....
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The driver side lock actuator on my 1999 Explorer has stopped working. It got so I couldn't even use the key to lock the driver door. I know I can get a replacement part, but after taking of the door panel and trying to get at the actuator, I am concerned about doing the work myself. Any tricks for making the job easier? Are there special tools that would make it easier? Or would it be best just to take it to a repair shop and let them do it?
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Well I noticed the drivers door actuator wasn't working. I went to the Lexus dealer and service rep told me 700 bucks to fix. A month later i went to fix my cat converter under warranty. After i got the car back, surprisingly the keyless door works again. Well a week later it stops working again
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My '07 Elantra wont open from the outside handle, and it also wont unlock when using the key fob. Is it possible I have a bad actuator?
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2012 Prius C Trim 2. Title says it all. Luckily, I had purchased an extended warranty back in 2013 when you could still purchase them from Toyota dealerships online so it didn't cost me anything.
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I have a '03 elantra. The drivers side power door lock actuator went out. Haven't had much luck locating one on-line. Really don't want to go to the stealership. front and rear doors are the same? I would swap them out, since I seldom use the rear doors.
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I just purchased this really nice high milage '07 Sonata and am working on some "minor" issues:
The Driver's Door lock actuator is not working (all others are fine using the interior lock/unlock switch and the key when used in the driver's door lock).
I have researched the issue on this site and want to confirm what appears to be a nasty replacement scenario.
1st, can a new actuator be found for less than $70.00+-?
2nd, are the acuators specific for each door, left and right doors, or all interchangeable? I ask because I might go for a used one.
3rd, is the complete dismantleling of the door and window actually necessary? Seems unbelievable especially for such a common problem. But of course the engineers never expected it to be a "common" failure.
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I have a 2007 Prius and recently both my driver side front door and driver side rear door lock actuator failed. I browsed and found part number to replace the driver side front door lock assembly. I wasn't very confident in my ability to replace the assembly, but I decided to give it a shot, so I ordered the part. The part arrived today and my wife and I just finished successfully replacing the assembly. It was a little challenging, but now that we know how to do it we could probably do it again in half the time.
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Among other issues that have been happening with our tig, the battery crapped out. Replaced the battery no problem. The drivers side auto up and down stopped working but that was an easy fix.
When the battery died we noticed the chirp wasn'tt happening when you lock the car. Back left door isn't locking or unlocking with either the fob or any buttons on doors. The lock buttons on the affected door either, but the window works fine.
This seems like the battery dying caused it, is there some way to reset it like the auto up?
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1997 Ford F-150 4X4 ignition Actuator Rod. Looking for instructions on how to replace a broken Actuator Rod? I know the rod is broken because the upper part moves and the lower part connected to the switch does not move.
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How do I access the wiring connector for a driver side door mirror on a 2003 Chrysler Town & Country van? I thought a door mirror replacement would be a simple task.
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I had my '09 F-150 Super Crew lock punched out on driver side door. To prevent this from happening again, I am replacing that handle with a handle for the rear door that has NO lock. I will no longer have key access to the truck. I am also ordering a spare remote. Is there anything I should consider before following through with this decision? Why I shouldn't do this? Is this a common thing to do?
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So, this 2000 X-Limited that recently bought has an issue.
Power door locks. The drivers door is the only door that works, using either the remote fob or the rocket switch on the door. None of the other doors, or the rear lift glass work.
I have a hard time believing that ALL of the individual actuators in each door don't work.
Does the actuator in the drivers door act as a primary? Are all of the other actuators slaved through the drivers door? Is there a relay between the drivers door and the other doors that could be bad?
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So I live in Utah and is cold here. My door won't shut tight when it's cold outside. I have to really slam it. I HATE it when my doors are slammed. But it's the only way I can secure it. No problems with any of the other does.
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So far I have not been able to get the rear door open on the driver side. I was able to remove the plastic panel so I could see inside. The cable is attached to the handle, but not the latch mechanism at the bottom of the door. I have searched this and other sites and looked for pics on the internet...no luck yet.
Looking for an image of the latch mechanism for the driver barn door ... something that will hopefully show where the cable attaches and/or how I can manually (no cable attached) open the door.
Also, I am having issues with the door ajar light. I am almost certain that this is from the rear of the truck. Is the sensor for door ajar on the hatch, driver barn door, passenger barn door, more than one?
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The driver's side barn door won't open. I took the handle off and the door panel and the cable is out but not broken. I'm having trouble figuring out exactly how that mechanism in there really works. I can see where the cable lifts, and I push on the other end of the "arm" and it doesn't release the door, almost seems like it should lift higher. I w-d40 the out of it and I'm gonna look at it again tomorrow in the light. Hopefully it was just stuck or gummed up. I don't want to take it in for something that seems like I should be able to do!
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The drivers side barn door won't open. I took the handle off and the door panel and the cable is out but not broken. I'm having trouble figuring out exactly how that mechanism in there really works. I can see where the cable lifts, and I push on the other end of the "arm" and it doesn't release the door, almost seems like it should lift higher....
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